sootshe
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Posts posted by sootshe
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On 1/14/2022 at 7:53 PM, Dave A said:
I would not do one thing to CW4's. Every problem the CW's had from CW1 to CW3 have been solved. ALL those old legacy problems have been fixed.
Apart from the binding posts.
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On 1/14/2022 at 6:33 PM, Thunderball said:
They are not keyed into the plates and they spin before the speaker wires are tightened sufficiently (in my opinion). They are also too shallow to fully seat a banana plug. The post inside the cabinet looks to be about a number 6 or 8 machine screw size.
I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time.
Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters.
If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug.
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Schematic plus layout.
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“but that boxy “stuffy nose” bass sound was still there, obnoxious as ever.”
I think part of what you’re hearing is purely the sound of horn loaded bass from a LS.
Dont expect LS bass to sound warm or full. They have what I would call a “lean” bass sound. Snappy, forcefull, powerful.....sure, but they will never have the same bass tonality as a bass reflex or sealed box system. Not even the same as a K horn.
Even when you tame the side wall resonance & try anything else you like, you can’t change the basic sound signature of the cabinet design.
Just my 2 cents worth after spending time with Klipsch heritage & other famous vintage brands that shall remain nameless on this forum.
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Thanks guys,
Very interesting.
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1 hour ago, Marvel said:
Even if you build your own and put the same drivers in them, they won't be Khorns. They will be copies. Are you okay with that. The SKs have detailed build plans. There are no detailed plans available from Klipsch for their products.
If you are a good builder, you could build the SK cabinets and put the rest of the parts that are Klipsch in them and not be able to tell the difference between them sound wise.
Where are you located?
Excuse my ignorance....but what are SKhorns?
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You may find this information useful.
https://www.northreadingeng.com/Klipschorn_build/Klipschorn_build.html
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4 hours ago, babadono said:
one members solution:
I listened to stock La Scalas and KHorns for years(decades) until i found this forum and Tractrix horn replacements, I've never gone back.
...and there's your answer right there.
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4 hours ago, babadono said:
one members solution:
I listened to stock La Scalas and KHorns for years(decades) until i found this forum and Tractrix horn replacements, I've never gone back.
There's your answer right there.
....and I'd be using an ALK crossover or if you can snag one of Deans.
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3 hours ago, 000 said:
you swapped out all the drivers ,and checked all the connections of the internal wiring , there's pretty much nothing else in the equation but the XO
Apart from the "headache" mid horn.
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22 hours ago, geoff. said:
Thank you! That’s the kind of review you can set your clock to.
I recall seeing a thread on here some years ago where JustinSweber thought the Elliptrac to be the winner.
I just found it odd that Volti Audio hasn’t gone that route yet, yet uses elliptical tractrix tweeter lenses? Maybe he can knock out the Trachorns cheaper?
Absolutely.....Greg makes those himself.....can't see him purchasing a product from someone else, when he has the skill & knowledge to manufacture the horns that he utilises.
These horns were the start of everything for Greg.
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I've had Al's Trachorn & also Daves Elliptrac & used both extensively over some time.
For me, the Elliptrac was a step above the trachorn, with a bigger soundstage & smoother, more relaxed sound. I've used the same driver on both horns (Various versions of K55, A55, GPA).
Currently using the BMS DCM50 on the elliptrac & find this combo hard to beat.
Both are excellent horns. If you can handle the woodwork on the elliptrac kit, I believe it's a bargain.
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3 hours ago, sootshe said:
Beautiful looking Sansui. 👍
Looked your Sansui up on the net.....what a beast....300 watts per channel & they command a huge price these days.
I didn't realise it was a 2 piece unit. The power amp & pre amp are two seperate units that bolt together.
That ones a keeper!!
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Beautiful looking Sansui. 👍
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The Sony & the 1060 look great.
Here's my Marantz 1060.
I purchased this about 12 months ago from the "States". It had been totally refurbished with all new caps, resistors, everything cleaned & a new black faceplate.
I used to drool over these back in the 70's, but couldn't afford to buy one.
It sounds better than I remember them & can hold its own with any of the new more modern designs.
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1 minute ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
So those of you who still insist on building the OP's Port Mod for a LaScala, then you should have the ports firing into the corners, which will give you about 6 db more output for FREE, and reduce (not eliminate) the need for EQ boost.
OK?
If we “insist” on trying this option, it doesn’t mean we are wrong.
We don’t need to be dragged along with options we’re either not interested in or not likely to try.
Just be happy for us if we feel we’ve made a worthwhile improvement, after all, this hobby is so very subjective.
OK?
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3 hours ago, Curious_George said:
It is hard to refute facts, data and experience, but I don't recall doing any of those three. I made an observation that a lot of opinions on this forum are "half-baked" to use your descriptive words. NOW THAT is up for debate.
In regards to the "half -baked" opinions....this one is a real classic.
Yeah...we should all go out & buy 2 x 25 watt amps to run some home made cabs with tiny drivers to achieve "real' bass.
Throw me all the graphs you want, but if you think that's going to gel with a set of La Scala's, then you need new ears.
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I’m running a Luxman L509X on a pair of Belles & the sound is sublime.
The best of both worlds to my ears, liquid tube like mids & tops with plenty of heft & control on the bottom end.
No mucking around with tubes either & wondering whether they’re going off song, also totally silent.
Beautiful amplifier.
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1 hour ago, babadono said:
How's about iron on veneer? When I get a round tuit that is how I am going to do my raw Jube cabinets. The iron on is much more forgiving than contact cement.
this is the glue:https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html
check out all the good info on this site
Yes, I agree, the iron on is far easier to use, but very difficult to get into all those tight spots around the dog-house.
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You need to use a contact cement glue.
1. Make up templates from thin cardboard material for all the sections you need to cover.
2. Make sure the templates are exactly correct before you cut the veneer.
3. Cut the veneer to size from the templates.
4. Apply contact adhesive to one area & line up veneer to one of the edges & then gradually lay the veneer into position.
I did these in this fashion & although very tricky to do, the result was pretty good.
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On 6/14/2021 at 1:26 AM, rmlowz said:
I am building a three way speaker. I will be using Dave Harris tweeter lenses with DE10, the FastTrack 400 horn with the A55G mid driver and Crites cast frames in a stand alone Cornscala bass bin box.
My question is there a Klipsch or Crites crossover that will work well for this build. I know there are other options but it is long wait for other builders to build a crossover for me. Maybe I should be patient but if there is a alternative without the wait?
Thanks
Rich
There are many systems out there using this or a similar configuration of drivers. You have many choices of crossover to use with these drivers.
ALK Universal
ALK Gentle slope AP 12 series
ALK Extreme slope crossovers
CRITES AA
CRITES A/4500
Talk to
Michael about your options here or ALK if you can wait a little longer.
& you can quite easily construct some of the above yourself.
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On 6/9/2021 at 3:50 AM, AudioDon said:
I tried hooking up the leads directly to the horn by bypassing the X-over and it's still there.
This has probably fried your mid drivers.
Putting a full range signal directly to the mid drivers is not really recommended!
Great Plains Audio 399 Dimensions
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
All very interesting.
They have the 288 driver up for sale on eBay....I wonder what happens if you "buy" it from the EBay site?
I'd hate to think someone would pay for one of these on eBay & then get no response......doesn't seem like Bill at all.....or maybe the new people are running the EBay site?
288-8K 288-16K 288-32K HF Driver.pdf
Classic-Series-288-8H-Spec-Sheet.pdf