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The PDF you point to has nothing to do with the function of the product, but rather, it is the "Material Safety Data Sheet" for the components used in the product. I say, to each his own, & if you can hear a difference, then good luck to you & money well spent. If you purchase it & hear no difference, then "buyer beware". There are thousands of products out there that someone will say are "bull-...." & there will always be someone who will buy them. Speaker cables, interconnect cables, speaker toppers, supports that hold the speaker cables off the floor, capacitors, inductors....the list goes on & on. I have products in my system that some respected people say couldn't possibly make any difference to the sound, yet my experience over a 50 year span says otherwise. Who are we to say whether a product is valid or not for someone else. Good luck with your crusade.

Glad things worked out for you......enjoy.

Hmmmm.....yes, 5 is positive & 0 is negative...see attached....but the input will vary according to the level of attenuation you want .....as will the output. Refer to attached. I wouldn't be "flipping the phase" as I believe this design has a phase reversal built in to it. You really need to connect according to the attached input & output chart for the 3636. 3636 ATTENUATION LIST.pdf ALK Uni with 3636.pdf

You should try a Berkeley Alpha USB converter......http://www.berkeleyaudiodesign.com/alpha-usb & the guys here should be able to provide you with a wealth of knowledge......https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/

TLHP has them in stock also. 35.95 Euro each. https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/catalogsearch/result/?o=B+%26+C+de10&q=B+C+de10 or these are nice.....https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/loudspeaker/tweeter-a-compression/high-efficiency-compression-tweeter-fostex-t500amkiii-8-ohm-with-base.html

Sorry.....but no amount of EQ is going to remedy an inferior driver & certainly won't change the fundamental sound of a driver. I'm going from memory here, but I recall a few people saying back in the day that these drivers had to be modified when received from the factory. My memory says that the phase plug needed to be hand finished, as the machining was extremely rough. Maybe they have overcome these machining tolerances?

No....had the ALK tweeter attenuators....plus the Elliptrac mid horn with GPA 399’s. Even when dialled in correctly, they weren’t even close to the JBL’s. Sorry, I just thought they were terrible.

Very interesting how our thoughts differ in sound comparison. I bought a set of Beymas from Greg based on his test results.....when I hooked them up I only listened to them for about 5 minutes before advertising them for sale. To my ears they were extremely brash, rough & unrefined. To make sure I wasn't making a mistake, I compared them to a pair of JBL 2404 "baby cheeks" & then I realised I wasn't wrong, as the JBL's were in a different league altogether. Maybe there was a fault with the ones I had? I couldn't be happier with my current DE-10's with the timber flare.

Well I use the timber tractrix horn from Dave Harris.....there's also the machined aluminium horn available from a member here....not sure of his name, but there's plenty of people here who can tell you that. I really like the timber tractrix flare....have no experience with the alum flare.

I found the Beymas to be very rough sounding. Have a look at the B & C tweeters.....the DE10 is a sweet sounding unit. Re the midrange.....what mid driver are you using? Are you going to use the VTrac with a 2" throat or an adaptor to use the original driver?

Here's what I built using the above components. They did take quite a while to get here from the States but, believe me, it's worth the wait. I didn't get any damage, but it took about 4 months to get here. I bought the B & C gear from TLHP Audio & they were very good. All I got from Crites was the woofers. The crossovers are ALK uni's with upgraded components. If you need schematics for the AP12500's & the ES5800's I can send them to you. All the best with your project.

Here's the plans. My advice would be to stick with the first components you specified - the B & C DCM50 is a great driver & coupled with Daves horn is fabulous. The Crites cast woofers are the go & I used the B& C DE10's with Daves timber elliptrac also. Don't skimp on the components in the crossover.....they will make or break the system.

In response to some of your queries. None of the crossovers are better than the others....they are slightly different flavours /sounds. Some folks will prefer one over the other, so hard to say which one you will prefer. All of them will work with the LS. FWIW, my preference is for the one that I posted. I thought it had a much smoother integration between the 3 drivers. The purpose of the bypass caps is not to save money by having a 39uf cap instead of a 40uf cap. The bypass caps are 0.01uf, so the main caps remain at 40uf. The idea behind it is to impart some of the flavour of a really expensive cap into the main capacitors. To give you an idea, the 40uf caps cost me $284 Aust dollars each & the Dueland bypass caps cost me $25.75 for each 0.01uf cap. Don't overthink things too much, just have fun experimenting. Cheers.

This should be everything you will need. My Uni's have Jantzen Alumen Z Caps & Superior Z's (all have Dueland ByPass caps) with Mundorf VL236 Coils/Solen Litz. You won't go wrong with the Uni....with the right components it's great for smooth, easy listening. Very clear, open sound. 3636 ATTENUATION LIST.pdf

Can't believe we have lost another one of the greats! One of my all time favourites & a leader of some of the best fusion bands of the 70's....he changed the way I listened to music!

I have used the 511 horn in quite a few applications, including with a few Klipsch speakers (Bell, LS) & I found it far superior to the standard factory horns. The 511 is a much better sounding horn than the 811......a lot more open & less fatiguing. I think you will find it to be a big step forward for your CW's. In terms of the ringing associated with the 511....yes, it does exhibit a fair amount of ringing but can be tamed quite successfully & then it becomes a very smooth & open sounding component. All sorts of things have been tried to reduce the ringing, but I took the advice of one of the old Altec guru's Jim Dickenson, which was paint & sand & I quote below. "Layers of latex paint and sand. I've done it to all my horns, 511's and 811's and it works beautifully. Best done on a hot day, or with a heat lamp. Any latex paint will do. Glop on a layer of paint, then follow with sand. I made a salt shaker out of a jar with holes in the lid. Let it dry between coats. It takes about 6 coats. Dead like wood when done. And it's cheap!" This process really works well.....you can put on as many coats as you like & by the time you've finished they will be noticeably heavier & as dead as a door nail. The only downside is that after this process they won't look very pretty, but usually the horns are mounted inside a box of some sort. If you want an unbiased opinion on the sound of this horn I suggest you visit the Altec Users Board.....https://www.hostboard.com/forums/f700/altec-users-board.html No changes necessary to your crossover....they will work just fine.

So sad to hear the news & our thoughts & prayers are with your family. Bob helped me on a few projects & his experience & knowledge was invaluable. Such a helpful & thoughtful guy. He will be missed by all.

Copies of whatever you want......no affiliation. Why would anyone pay any more!! https://weiliangaudio.aliexpress.com/store/group/Power-amplifier/331129_511464061.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.26cab6feKVjG3C

Exactly.....at last we’re all in agreement.

Just saying....if one's MDF & the others birch, they will definitely sound different. Enjoy the update.

So is the FB cabinet made from birch or MDF?

Thanks for clarifying.

No resistance here......whatever floats your boat. & I won't get into the caps debate either.....just that my experience & ears tell me that a better quality cap 100% of the time sounds better. You can tailor the sound of your speaker, in other words, change the voicing, with different types of caps. I suppose my issue is that how can you legitimately install $10 caps into a potentially $30K speaker & not hear the difference between that & a better quality cap. My thoughts are exactly the same for the drivers & horns used in these speakers, particularly the LS & K Horn. Everyone is hiding behind the elephant in the room in that PWK says & I quote from a Klipsch brochure from times gone by......" If driver units (& horns) were available which are superior to the ones we use, we would readily substitute them"....the irony is that they are still using them nearly 40 years later. Don't get me wrong, if you love the sound of your stock heritage speaker....well done. If you want your speaker to remain just like the original ....great! To me, it appears that Klipsch don't want to change the voicing of the heritage series at all from what it sounded like 40 years ago. That's their decision. But for those who want to realise the full potential of what PWK designed there are sooo many things to choose from. For me, the Klipsch sound, the Klipsch heritage & the heart of PWK is in the design of the bass bins. No-one has ever been able to compete with that. When you combine that with better quality mid & tweeter sections & an appropriate crossover, then they truly are world class sounding. I've always thought that Klipsch should offer two ranges of heritage series. A standard series and an updated heritage line, using modern drivers, updated crossovers, etc. These would be giant killers & would compete with any top end speaker brand out there. When I think about it, they probably wouldn't sell many of the standard series compared to the updated series. Hope this isn't too far off topic & trying not to offend anyone. document.pdf

Are you saying one speaker is built from "Birch ply" & the other from some other material - or that they are both birch & one of them is painted black???

One of your previous posts claims you added gasket material to the mid & tweeter drivers to prevent any cabinet air leakage. If that was occurring then this is going to seriously alter the sound a lot more than a capacitor issue.