Pete H

That's funny right there. Better pick a strong branch to hang the Spud, probably run off all the birds. You know, I try and be so kind and serious on this forum all the time and I have to put up with all of this harsh and demeaning treatment; I just don't understand how I deserve this. [:'(] LMAO, You're right, that there is funny, but I'll bet there's someone on this forum that could support the validity of that test to get the best results.[]Update; Tang Band's arrived today so if all goes well, I will be done for testing this weekend when I've got a little time to work on it, after capping off some water lines, running a new gas line for the stove, some insulation so the new pipes don't freeze, some tear out in the basement, laying out a new stairwell, cutting kitchen cabinet panels; oh hell, I need to get my priorities straight; I'll get the speaker done. There will be pictures by the end of the day Saturday and the little women will just have to understand.

REW is Room EQ right? I think there was some sort of conflict with Vista when I tried this the first time, but I'm game and we'll see what happens.

I have a dayton emm-6, is that sufficient for room measurements and speaker measurements? Not that I yet have a clue how to use it and the software but I'm hopeful. []

It's moving right along and just waiting on the drivers. All my cordless are now Rigid and they have been great and I'm really a Bosch guy but in cordless these have been better than any Bosch or Dewalt that I've ever owned and yes with the lifetime warranty on the batteries and they're 24 volt but can run the 18's. Tonight I'm pulling out all the equipment that I think I need to test with and I think I'm going to start a dedicated thread for me and other dumb as*'s that don't have a clue where to begin to test because I'm reading a lot of different threads about it, but I'll post the picture here with what I have and list the software and see where it goes because I don't know where to begin. Dayton EMM-6 Mic Behringer 1832 FX Mixing Board Rat Shack Sound Level Meter (70% off today, going out of business sale) Behringer UCA Audio control Not Pictured Acer Laptop with dual core 2.0 cpu 4 G ram Running Vista Home Premium and whatever sound card is built in. [] Also not pictured are many cables and connectors and adapters that I'm sure won't be the right ones and I'll have to go get something.

I won't have a "tuba table" to compare it to, but we will be running this against a version of the "tuba ht" and RSW. I hope to have the rest of the pics up this weekend.

Just got the confirmation from Parts Express so looks like I should be able to get this finished up this weekend. I also picked up some poly fill that is like a blanket about 1" thick and listed for quilting so I have the choice on what I'll dampen the cabinet with. I also stopped by the local rat shack that is selling out and picked up an spl meter for 70% off, or about $15.00 so I'm going to try and play with my software and other measurement tools tonight to see if I can actually measure something.

That was the same drivers i used. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-854&FTR=w8%20740&CFID=542086&CFTOKEN=79351136 I used that very driver in my Tuba-18. It's a stout little bugger. I should have them here no later than tomorrow but I still haven't gotten a confirmation from Parts Express on the shipping.

They or it (I'm doing one at a time) will be located in the corner or corners behind everything else and standing up on end so the mouth will be located at the bottom and firing directly into the room. I just placed the order for the drivers and picked up a roll of poly fill, even though I still think that acoustical foam would work fine, I really want to put this together and get it done and running so when I set the top panel I want to be done.

Perhaps it'll get you dinner and a date?... That's some funny Shi* right there, and I heard that you Canadians didn't have a sense of humor.[]

I stopped about 3 months ago, but I have to be honest and say that I still have about 1 per day and justify that because it's not 2 packs per day, but that is just a cop out on my part and it needs to be none beacause it would only take one really bad event for me to justify going right back into it. I will say that the Chantix made it much easier this time but you still have to want to do it.

Great doesn't come close to describing this build and I'm really thrilled to see that I'm not the only one that doesn't know how to do any testing.[] Would you please get the testing figured out so I can call you next week and you can tell me how to do it. LMAO

OK, I have to know; what are shadow boards and spanners?

Thanks Rudy. I went through your build again and maybe I missed it but which Tank Band driver did you use?

I even sent you a PM and you sent me an e-mail pertaining to this and you missed the thread?[^o)] BTW, thanks for sending me that file again; it was the same one that I had and I'm still not certain of the exact measurements of the 2 motor board pieces but I belive it's got to be very close and we're gonna give it a whirl and see what happens.

Welcome to the forum! Yes, it is best to match but there are many combination that will sound great if that's not possible.

I would venture to guess that they both have a wave radio that is color coordinated to match their "man panties" shorts; PINK. Proud owner of a Man Cave; Man Living Room, Man Shop, Man Garage and I have a Man Tiki Bar in the works for the coming summer.

Just a couple of quick thoughts and questions. 1. My goals for this project are pretty simple, build a sub for HT that will be better than my RSW 15's for that application. I wanted to do this build quickly as I feel that the best thing about this or any other build is when you're done and the project meets your expectations, not how many weeks you spend in the shop; my time is limited so when I decide to do something like this I need to " Get Er Done". I also wanted to hopefully provide some useful information for the next person as many of you have done on your builds. 2. I'm trying to show some details and methods that I choose to use because I hope that they might help someone or give somebody an alternative to the way they've done things; or it might produce some better ways of accomplishing the same thing. I've been building for a long time, but really haven't done much in the way of cabinet construction until getting into this so I'm all ears and would love to hear from those of you that have other methods or ideas that will help me and anyone else that is doing these types of projects. 3. I know I said this already, but I would really like to know, when I'm done this build, how to accurately test things; not that the test will tell me weather I like this or not, but rather to verify that I have built something properly based on the plans and if anything that I have altered helped, hurt or had no affect on the build. I have the following; room eq, true rta and sonar along with various microphones, mixing board, and the ability to jack into the laptop. Thanks, Pete

Roundover detail done and so was I for the afternoon.

Now I used the router to do a little round over detail on the exit location.

Just to show how I used the guide to fasten interior panels since I've explained that I didn't route in any of the panels for this build. This was where I had already glued and pocket screwed the 2 interior panels that I didn't complete yesterday so when I installed the temp braces I flipped it over and put to clamps on and took the stapler and put an additional 5 or 6 staples in per run.

Plunge cuts made and jigsaw used to quickly clean out the corners.

When the guide won't work then just a couple of quick measurements and a guide board and you're ready to go.

Set up to plunge cut with the skil saw, guide attached. I do not recommend this for anyone that hasn't used a circular saw a lot and done this before, but it's much quicker than using pilot holes and a jig saw. Normally I wouldn't even use a guide but I want the exterior cuts to be very clean so an extra minute to put the guild on was OK.

Time to cut out the exit port.

Temporarily installed the long motor board panel to square up the last 2 interior pieces. I stapled the 2 braces you see on top and then removed the long motor board panel.