holtrp
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Posts posted by holtrp
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Some context. I recently acquired a pair of Khorns for mains in my HT and sold my RF83 and RC64. So then I found a pair of heresy’s and have always been of the opinion that 4 is better than 3 so I want to try out a pair of heresy’s behind the screen as a center channel but have in wall wiring so can only run both off a single channel.
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I have read mixed things about wiring heritage speakers in series. There are some threads where people are pretty impressed with cornwalls / heresey in series: a few others mention you can’t do it because you are not wiring a single speaker in series but an entire crossover network. Think I am going to try I but just wanted any input before I do. Seems to me the circuit will be the same just double the ohm weather you were wiring a crossover or a single driver in series.
thanks for any input.
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8 hours ago, LTD02 said:
hey guys,
thought that i'd drop in and say hello.
for those who don't know me, i'm a big fan of high efficiency speakers and have long admired pioneers such as pwk. several years ago i read through his "dope from hope" newsletters and found it kind of amazing (and sad) that so much was known a long time ago and we seemed to have to keep re-learning it all over again. 🙂 it is also a litle mind-boggling some of the folds are on the heritage cabs--and all in a world before cad.
as some of you know, i try to help folks on various forums (mostly limited to avs these days simply owing to time constraints) with their subwoofer projects of all sorts. we started the company as way to offer flat packs for the folks who wanted some good bass but found full-out diy a little too intimidating and/or time consuming.once we get situated with the core line-up, i'd really like to offer some horn designs and/or other high efficiency designs.
as many of you know, the core line-up may not be the best choice for blending with high efficiency mains, especially for music. perhaps over the coming months, folks can help provide a little guidance as to the kinds of products that you might like to see us offer. no promises on timelines at this point. 🙂 a lot of our products may begin as traditional diy projects as well, for folks where that may be a preferred solution.
as an important point, if anything that i share ever comes of as 'advertising', please let me know. that's not my goal and i hope none of my comments will ever be interpreted that way. i just want to see everybody achieve their audio goals and will try to assist in that process as best that i can.
i appreciate all the kind remarks.
john
The marty sub thread on AVS forum and a number of your posts over there changed my life! Awesome work and congrats on the new venture, I hope cheap, powerful bass spreads across the land like a pandemic.
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3 hours ago, jwc said:
Interesting.
I've had bad luck with those fine thread screws I've gotten from HD. The "wood screws" from parts express are more coarse and worked way better. They really grab the wood.
Anyway. Don't want to derail the thread.
thx
jc
Yeah, they weren't really fine threads but they weren't woodscrews either. It was whatever generic brand of lowes #10 1" panheads they had at the time. I drilled a 1/32" pilot and they work like charm.
LTD02 John is one of the legends over on AVS forum. The DIY sub / speaker forum over there is totally legit. You really don't have to post much on it because there are so many threads if you do enough research you can generally find what you are looking for.
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32 minutes ago, Edgar said:
The difference in cutout between the High Output reference dayton and the Ultimax is 440mm vs 442mm.
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59 minutes ago, jwc said:
Coarse thread? Where did you buy?
No coarse theads. Lowes
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25 minutes ago, jwc said:
I agree. I drill the pilot hole. Then slightly hammer in the T-Nut. Then put little drops gorilla glue underneath the T-nut then hammer in flush.
Then take the matched bolt with a very large washer and sinch. Leave this way overnight. The T-nut is stable......just my experience.
Wood screws have worked for me when I've used them even in MDF. Certainly a quicker process. What is the consensus here for driver screws? #8 or #10 coarse thread?
jc
I used #10 1" panhead screws with my daytons. Mounted them in both flat pack sealed boxes and the Marty sub without any issues.
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Never heard of the company but awesome that the Martysub is going mainstream. I absolutely love mine. Hands down this sub is the best value you will ever find in home theater.
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Glad you are happy with your subs. They look awesome. I have my 4 set up about 1/3 along the front and rear walls. I am not 100% on tuning and just haven't gotten around to it yet. I've done a little tweeking and run Audessy but that is about it.
One thing is for certain: I honestly feel like I finally have more bass than I know what to do with. I hope it stays that way. Any more subs is going to require an additional 20 amp circuit and will most likely result in actual structural damage to my home. Next stop: LFE Buttkickers
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On 1/10/2018 at 7:15 PM, Jirachi said:
What are some other common DIY subs besides the Full Marty?
Parts express and DIY soundgroup sell a bunch of flatpacks for sealed subs that are pretty popular. Full Marty is the undisputed champion of the world for cheap, easy and epic output though.
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You are on the path to enlightenment, but don't forget about the HT secret sauce... subwoofers
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Fantastic!
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Projector vs TV will be a pretty big factor here, it's going to be a big part of the budget either way you go. 4k / HDR isn't quite there yet in my opinion when it comes to projection and what is available is fairly expensive.
I think the performance you get from your speakers using an outboard amplifier is worth it, but I am sure YMMV. And that said, the bad thing these days is preamp/processors are considered higher end with generally better features so you are almost better off just buying an ARV with preouts on it.
Make sure you think long and hard before buying. I have bought stuff in this hobby only to turn around and sell it within a few years because I was ready to upgrade or didn't really keep the end game in mind.
Consider shopping on Craigslist, forums, ebay and even doing DIY subs. Your money will go so much further it is totally worth it.
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Second the center and subs being most important speakers in a system. The center channel just does so much work. Sub(s) is the most impactful, immersive addition to a theater. You can get a lot of stuff wrong, but if you have solid low end, it is going to be immersive and impressive. Towers are important, but arguably not nearly as much unless you listen to a lot of stereo source stuff. Least important is surround speakers.
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I think atmos is fantastic and would highly recommend it. Even if you aren't using it for atmos content, you still get a bigger sound from 5.1 - 7.1 material with the extra speakers. No replacement for displacment when it comes subs. 2 x 12" ported klipsch subs would be an absolute minimum, but I am addicted to bass so there is that.
As for what and where to purchase, your best bet is buying used gear off of craigslist. As long as the speakers were not abused, they last forever. It would be hard to buy anything at a brick and mortar anymore regardless of how good of a price they offer, knowing that as long as I was patient I could find whatever it is for 50% online used.
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If I was forced to buy a 4k projector today it would probably be between the the new Optoma UHZ 65 (Laser + full 4k) https://newatlas.com/optoma-uhz65-4k-laser-projector/51639/
Sony VPL-VW285ES
And Epson 5040UB.
I really want 4k, but I want better prices, more 4k content, full 4k and possibly laser / better HDR implementation before buying. Going to hold off for at least another year.
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On 10/22/2017 at 5:14 AM, Rudy81 said:
holtrp, thanks for the input. Fortunately, I do have a small wood shop and plenty of good tools from my past builds. I am still in the process of putting my shop back together. Earlier this year I decided to tear it all up and start over. I have learned a lot over the years on how I really wanted my shop to work and decided to bite the bullet and start over. I am at the final stages of putting it all together. I am working on a stand alone router table at the moment. The shop now sports a very powerful cyclone dust collection system by Clearvue and a super nice Stopsaw table saw that is just a pleasure to use. I figure the full marty build will be my first official project. I will likely get to that next month.
I am currently trying to decide on which drivers to use. I am leaning toward the Dayton UM18, but they are out of stock until December. Also considered the Mach5 UXL18, but the cost may not be worth the extra performance for me. The Dayton HO is also on the list. When I get serious about the build I will look at the drivers and run some calculations on the options.
One change I will be making to the Marty is to place the driver on the small face of the enclosure. When I lay down the box, it should have a much smaller profile relative to the sitting area of my room. This design will also allow the ports to be straight and avoid the 90 degree bend. I am planning on replacing the dual SPUDS for LFE and the two RSW-15's that are part of my mains. I use the RSW's as passive subs controlled from my active crossovers.
Looking forward to the build.
I have been very pleased with the HO. I think when I bought the UM was also out of stock. Honestly though, I don't think it would be any order of magnitude better then the HO at this point. Looking forward to seeing your build. From what I have experience with, the Full Marty is the meta of DIY subs when considering, value, cost, simplicy, and output.
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I just got finished this week converting my 4 flat pack Dayton HO's into Full Marty cabinets that I built myself. The output on these things is simply unbelievable.
To speak to your project, I spent about 6 months working on these cabinets. I could have gotten it all done in about a month but summer time tied me up quite a bit and kept me from finishing. The toughest part about building your own cabinets, if you choose to go this route, is getting straight, precise cuts on 8'x4' sheets of MDF which is a pain in the butt to work with when you are alone. I ended up doing it with a 10' straight as an arrow piece of trim as a guide, a skilz saw and two C clamps, there is a good video on Youtubes about this method. Measure twice (or maybe even 3 or 4 times) and cut once. Also, turning your garage into a woodshop is a bit annoying. The second worst part was keeping everything square when gluing them together. Unfortunately, they don't just 'go together' as easily as a flat pack does. I ended up using an embarrassing amount of wood filler in a couple spots because being a 1/16" off on a cut + not being perfectly square really messes stuff up. You'll also need to invest in a router and an orbital sander, clamps, glue, foam mattress padding or pillow filler.
All in all, it was a fun project and I certainly learned a few things along the way and would do it again. I took a trip a few months ago and I have a buddy that has been doing kitchen cabinets for 20 years. When I showed him my project and what I had into it he laughed and said he could probably knock out all 4 in a couple days. LOL.
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Beautiful design, I love that heritage Klipsch look.
Has anyone measured this thing yet? Any spec sheets? They should send one to data bass to see how it stacks up.
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If you sub works with 5.1 sources but not with stereo, it is likely a settings thing. No idea why denon would think that people wouldn't want to have the sub going with stereo source material but I know on mine that was a setting that I had to change manually from time to time. I want to say it was somewhere in the LFE menu or channel settings.
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Check your sub settings on the AVR. On my Denon 3808, there was a setting in one of the menus where you could turn the subwoofer off for certain inputs, so if 5.1 was detected, the sub would come on but if 2.1 was detected, it would go off unless you override it.
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16 hours ago, supercooldude said:
Ok, I am going to start sniffing around and see what I can find...I am still unsure if I am going to go Atmos or not! Lol, but this THIS is a great idea and should work perfectly for my room!
Personally, even with the lack of Atmos content available right now, it sill makes a meaningful difference in overall performance in my setup and I am glad I did it. And it is just a matter of time in that regard until more soundtracks, video game, etc start coming with 'object based audio'.
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20 hours ago, supercooldude said:
You think the R-15M would cut it? Sorry OP this is really saving my life over here lol
Sorry, been busy today.
Yeah, I don't see why it wouldn't.
It is tough to find from within the klipsch website, but you can google RB-51 and it should take you to the archived page which has spec sheets where you could compare frequency response and specs with the newer stuff. I highly doubt the R-15M is vastly different from the RB-51 or RB-51II.
I do remember seeing some ceiling mounts but it might not have been at Parts Express. Check Monoprice, pretty sure they will have something if PE doesn't Just be careful to not exceed the weight rating and get your lag bolts / screws into a solid stud. My bookshelves aren't super heavy, but I know the RB-61 was less than 5lbs under the weight limitation when I was still researching what I wanted to do.
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Just now, supercooldude said:
I just looked (on Klipsch) and I am not sure what the ref IVs are, BUT how much per pair are we talking (new)? $199? $249? Just curious.
I wont be able to put the front heights in front of the main L and R but I can put them above and "outside" of them. Make sense? They would be above and maybe an inch or two completely on the outside of them.
But I do like how you think, and I am really REALLY tempted to do this....
Oh yeah, they are outside of the mains mounted to the sidewall. My mains are maybe 18" angled in from the sidewall. I was just referenced front to back in the room, the front height are closer to the listener than the mains, but that is just because of my room and where i had to move them forward a little bit. Ideally they would be flush.
I think the RB-61's I found were like $200 and the RB-51's were $150. It is just the series of speaker. I own all Ref IV gear, RF-83, RC-64, RS-52. The next series that came out in the reference line was Ref II, which was RF-7, etc. It is just a preference thing for me. I don't think it matters if you mix and match different series of reference gear as the specs are pretty much the same since they launched them.
I am really happy with it. It sounds fantastic to my ear.
Klipsch Heresy wires in series
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
The heresy was originally designed as a center for the Khorn, and with K77 and K55 it seems like a perfect match at least in the horn section for the Khorn if not the woofer. I have inwall reference pro surrounds, I’ve reached the same conclusion that there isn’t enough content in the surrounds to justify heritage speakers. My preference is to stick with inwalls just to keep the room clean.