HiFi Heaven

I had the same problem with a JBL E-145-8 in my JBL 4628B's - turned out it was a bad surround, a hairline split that could have been repaired or replaced. I had it reconed by the MN Master of JBL, Bill Batson at Metro Sound in St. Paul. He's done JBL repairs for 30+ years, huge inventory of vintage parts, please tell him I said HI!

How do you have a "flat response system" without EQ for speakers, room, components? You need to get a grip on acoustics. AudioTool will calibrate your ears & your room.

I bought these for a Ham-Radio mag-loop antenna project that never materialized, so these rare vintage cables are now for sale. #4 AWG stranded silver-plated copper conductors in clear PVC jackets with FULTON logo clearly visible on both 28'8" lengths. Each cable weighs 8 pounds, measures 0.011Ω DCR for the ultimate damping factor for eliminating resonant bass overhang. Listed elsewhere for $995/pair, happy to offer 20% discount to Klipsch Forum members. Please email for hi-res photos that I can't seem to post here.

Glad you sold them, Mike. Too bad you didn't know - and the buyer didn't care - about what's behind the curtain.

Series Z1 Z2 or Z3? What AWG size? Pure copper or CCA copper-clad aluminum? Thanks!

Gorgeous! Hope you like BASS!

KG 4.2's have MUCH more bass output than any Heresy. Also the .2 series have passive radiators for better bass extension than the port on the .5 models.

Hi Camplo - so -30dB would be 1% distortion? Did I get that right?

Why don't you kids just get AudioTool and some kind of 10-12-15-31 band EQ? Seems like a lot of work to swap X-over caps vs. nudging a slider on a graphic EQ. But WTH do I know? Some guys like swapping 12AX7 tubes until they pass out.

Back to Favorite Receivers topic... McIntosh MAC-4100 was amazing, fabulous in every way. Maybe I can steal one here from you guys? Hmmm...

I use AudioTool 61-band RTA on my Moto/Lenovo devices w/pink noise to EQ any system, any room. You opinionated devotees of commercial parochial EQ schemes that don't work should try my ideas. Flatten 40-2000, roll off -3dB/octave above 2KHz, add Fletcher-Munson Loudness below 100dB. Paul Klipsch got it, first guy to understand loudspeaker voicing for living rooms, not auditoriums.

We subjectively prefer the louder of 2 speakers in A/B comparisons, so equal-volume comparisons are mandatory. Back in 1972, ADVE\T built a slick speaker switcher device for Sound of Music which I dubbed "The Lie Detector". Allowed 2 of 8 stereo pairs of speakers to be selectively A/B compared at the same volume because it switched in preamp-level screwdriver trim pots in the signal path to attenuate each speaker to match SPL in the listening room. Very interesting when we compare sonics instead of decibels.

Agreed! Speakers are mostly linear transducers at 1% (-20dB below) rated power. Distortion rises exponentially over 10% (-10dB) as moving parts become non-linear. Gain compression can often reach 6+dB at full power, when 75% is wasted as heat. The trick is to juggle your budget, room space, and Fletcher-Munson until you smile!

KLF-20's are remarkably better than KLF-10's - amazing 3D projection in stock form - give them 200 watts and stand back!

Sealed systems can be EQ'd very low with good design. Bag End InfraSub 18 goes to 8 Hz, limited by cone excursion. Vented systems have 3dB more output down to box tuning frequency. 30 Hz includes 99% of musical frequencies.

MAC-4100 has 30 Hz EQ knob! I had one briefly, very well behaved controls, PowerGuard limiter is a plus if you rock out! One just sold on Minneapolis CL for $800. Wish I was the buyer...

Measure with AudioTool 1/12-octave RTA ($8) and call me in the morning.

... what might take months. Use AUDIOTOOL on your phone or tablet to see the audio spectrum w/ 12 bands per octave. Have a blast, tell us what you learn in the process!

Hello Dave - Any 50W L-pad will do the job for home listening. You are only dropping 9dB, at a few watts max. Your 150W HF driver (?) is made for ballpark PA systems which are tri-amped, not for passive systems. If you insist on using it consider electronic crossovers where you can play with levels by spinning a knob instead of endless experimenting with resistors, capacitors, driver phasing & time-correction. You can do in 10 minutes

Woofer looks like a Jensen Flex-air from the late 1960's - decent woofer in a large box - I had a pair in the Rectilinear III's way back.

Remember DAMPING FACTOR is halved when bridging any amplifier, so even with 2X the power, you have 1/2 the control over the woofer. Some old tube amps (Scott?) had Damping Controls that actually inserted series resistance to allow woofers to boom away undamped!

Howdy Juniper - and all the ALTEC fans here that have graduated to Klipsch for home listening! ALTEC 604's are nearfield Monitor Speakers, never intended or voiced for home music playback. ALTEC 604-HPLN (High Power Less Network) had 421 8Ω woofer LF + 16Ω HF diaphragm, so the Sound 80 mix-masters could achieve 110+dB at the console. Those were the days! I was there.

AudioTool by J.J.Bunn. 1/12 octave RTA, RT60 on a handclap, sine sweep & pink noise built in. Amazing for $8! Instructions are a short course in Audio Engineering. Android & iOS versions.

Hard to beat these amazing 60° x 120° bullet horns with 3.3uF 1st-order crossover caps ready to go for $30! PYLE PDBT78. Hot enough for ALTEC 418B's @ 100dB/w, might have to pad them down for your Heresy's...