Davecv41

I’ve got the same thing going on with my Belle and Khorns at the moment. The Belle is a center channel with a TV on top, and it sounds better, IMHO, with the ZXPC 18x10 and a D2200Ph driver. I’ve decided to build the horn into the Belle, but haven’t finalized a plan yet. Are you going to put the tweeter into the motorboard, or on top of the top hat? I’m still listening and evaluating the new sound of the Khorns. I pulled the old motorboard out, slid the D2200Ph and 18x10 in the hole, and put the tweeter temporarily on top. Please update us with some pictures of the new motorboard and side panels when you get them installed.

Make sure the connections are snug where your speaker wires connect to the crossovers. If that doesn’t solve it, then swap the speaker wires between the left and the right channels at the back of the receiver. If the problem moves, the receiver has a problem in it. I got my 1967 Khorns 31 years ago due to a problem like this. They were being sold by a little old lady who was on her way to a nursing home. She had a portable CD player connected to an Onkyo receiver, and one of the RCA plugs had an oxidized connection. The first guy that came over to hear them thought that the scratchy sound was a problem with the speakers. He passed on the deal. That was the best $900 I’ve ever spent.

If you haven't already gone to get them yet, I suggest bringing a dolly to roll them to and from the truck or trailer. One that has a strap to go around the Khorns is nice to have. And bring a good quality screwdriver to undo the screws on the terminal boards so you can take the tops off. I moved mine by myself from house to UHaul truck, unloaded them myself, and up 3 flights of concrete stairs. Then back down to a house a few months later. I went slowly, and no scratches or dings on either one. You may need to take off the side grills, just don't lose the wing nuts.

It's the 4th post down in the Technical/Modifications section, JEM Performance Capacitor kits. Bob Crites passed away a year and a half ago, his family is running the business now. They state they proudly have no connection to Klipsch.

Well, we have capacitors from a Klipsch approved vendor that are available to bring the older speakers back to their design specs. If there is any improvement available with Audio Quest wires over lamp cord, I would EXPECT them to be available thru Klipsch. Just like I thought..... Crickets.

Intel was shortened from Integrated Electronics. Some of the founder's names were Moore and Noyce, and they felt that Moore-Noyce sounded too much like More Noise, so they kept looking for a name. Does that sound about right, @JBCODD

From the bicycle light hobby, I learned that LEDs don't need a steady power source like incandescent bulbs do. In order to save power, the LEDs, being a device that are instantly on when power is supplied to them, are pulsed at a frequency faster than the eye can detect that they're flashing. It would make sense that the OP's power supply is putting out pulsed DC, which can only be read on the AC scale on a DMM, or with an Oscope. Unless the said power supply has a problem, it would likely be simpler to get a 6VDC wall wart and use it to replace the 4 AA batteries, rather than trying to solve a problem that isn't there. FWIW, cold startup current on an incandescent filament can be around ten times what the hot filament current is.

I use a 4PDT toggle switch, mounted in a hole on the side of my stereo cabinet. They're under $20.

I believe it was Speaker Builder magazine that had an article in the late 1990s about building subs in between floor joists, with the output being unobtrusive, like heating vents in the floor. I believe it used two JBL 18" drivers. A motorboard was mounted between joists, 45 degrees to the floor. The driver back was open to the basement. I saved the article, I'll look for it.

Interesting design. I've never seen a 10k primary on an OPT before.

They're your speakers to do with what you want. I told my wife a couple decades ago that there wasn't any way that I could connect her karaoke machine to my Khorns.

The fuse was blown, it got replaced with a larger current fuse, then the over current turned R9 into the weakest link in the circuit. It sounds like you have a short circuit, and you need to find it, otherwise you can keep replacing the fuse and the resistor until the cows come home, and still have no music.

I second the welcome. I have Khorns with a Belle in the middle and a pair of H2's in the rear, connected to an A/V receiver. The Khorns can be switched to another amp by using a 4 pole, double throw toggle switch.

I've owned two BX-3 amps, starting in the late '80s when home theater was the coming thing. I sold one, the one I kept developed a problem in one channel that was caused by the relays. Playing with the speaker select pushbutton switches would clear it up. Mice chewed the wiring in it when I had it apart in the garage, so it went to a junk hauler when I moved. I miss the CX-3 MkII preamp, I should have kept it.

KBWO 2E457, made in 1967. I have it's KCWR cousins, 2E322 and 2E323.

A couple years ago here, one of the forum members posted a picture of her listening room. In it, an unused Klipsch midrange horn had been turned into a very respectable looking table lamp. If you get a new horn, consider repurposing the old one, or selling it in the garage sale area of the forum.

They'd sell more if they made them in the proper 57 1/8" length!

No ground loops to get into yer subs from that ungrounded outlet, either. That's smart, very smart.

I read the last 2 pages of the AK thread. Fix the short in the power supply first. If that doesn't work, then I'd suggest unwire the whole thing, and start over, installing one wire at a time. Start with the power transformer. Unsolder and tape the secondary leads up for safety, and use the bulb test to make sure the transformer itself isn't shorted.

They must still be on dial up.

I use Simple Green and an old toothbrush in the sink.

So this magic wood induces a resonant hum into your tone arm that gets picked up by the stylus and gets amplified and reproduced by your speakers. Why didn't I think of doing that? I've been wasting my time dealing with 60 cycle hum.

Bad timing for me, I used to work in the neighborhood until UP closed the locomotive shop 5yrs ago. FYI, 10th and Santa Fe is not a place you'd want to park your car after dark.

Back in the late 90s I had bought 71A and 45 tubes from Antique Electronic Supply in Tempe, AZ. www.tubesandmore.com Both types were NOS. The 71A was commonly used as an output tube in 1930s radios, like the Philco 20.

Very nice work, George. Does it sound as good as it looks? Is the schematic available?