bonedoctor

Anybody have a source for replacement speakers gaskets for the Heresy II? I need replacement gaskets for the woofer and the mid range horn. These are the thin gaskets that seal the speakers against the openings in the motorboard.

Anybody have a source for replacement speakers gaskets for the Heresy II? I need replacement gaskets for the woofer and the mid range horn.

They seem to sound okay. I haven't had them running together for a bit. Been messing around with the Cornwalls. Was playing around and had one channel hooked up to the Heresy with the C crossover and the other channel on an RF-7.

Okay, I get some pics posted next week. I did remember one was micamold radio. One cap is turned away from me and I can't see the stamping. What's weird is that the have clearly different caps from each other and the Heresy B caps look like the Cornwall's B caps, but with one having a jumper wire.

Okay, so now I had to open the other Heresy cabinet. Very interesting. It has the same speaker components, but a Type C crossover! So I looked at the type B from the other Heresy and compared to the 72 Cornwalls. One cap on the B from the Heresy has three connections, with two bridged together with a small jumper wire. The Cornwall B also has the cap with three connections, but with three sep wires. And I just noticed the serial numbers are very slightly nonconsectutive. One is 9M683 and one is 9M686. Gotta love these old things!

Yes, I thought it was commonly an E crossover, too, but the one speaker I opened is clearly labelled 'B'. It has a K-22E woofer, a shorter K-22V mid and a K-77 tweeter. Everything appears to be original and I don't think anyone had been inside the cabinet before. The caps on the odd B crossover aren't upright like those shown in the pics above. Rather, they are fat silver boxes laid flat and are shaped like a Klondike bar, mostly block shaped. The crossovers in the 72 Cornwalls are B with smaller block shaped caps laying flat. Yes, I'll post some pics soon. The 72 Cornwalls are sweet. Oiled walnut with the pie logos and brown grill cloth. They are the vertical models, too, with mint labels and the orientation labels. They also have what appear to be factory risers. I always enjoy peeking inside these things. The 72s got new Crites Crossovers and CT125tweeters since the fragile originals were both out.

Got a really nice pair of 1974 Heresy speakers recently. Nice pie logos, perfect grills, sound nice. I took off the back to look inside. Probably the last guy to see inside was the guy who put the back panel on in '74. So I check out the crossover and it's a type B style like my mint '72 Cornwalls. Was this the commonly used cross over?

While I'm not 100% familiar with your Denon model, I figure it offers similar or same features as mine whn it comes to zones. Yes, you could have the same CD playing in both zones, the 'main' zone and 'zone 1'. You set the main volume to what you want, then select zone 1 and set its volume independently. Since you can have seperate sources for each zone, if you have two devices that can play CDs, e.g., a dvd player and a CD player, you could have two different CDs playing, each at its own volume.

The Sonance 4 speaker selector box is just a way to multiply the output. It takes the single pair of zone 2 outputs and gives you four outputs, but they all play the same source and are controlled by zone two volume. Sonance does make a six output model and also ones that have individual volume controls for each pair. I suppose it's possible to have a 4 pair box wired into each of the four zones my denon offers, therefore having a 16little pair network, all individually selectable and even possibly with volume control. Couldn't obviously run them all or very many at same time to avoid overloading and overheating the amp.

Thanks for the compliment. I have a 9.1 set up and all the surround speakers are wired directly to the denon receiver through dedicated speaker outputs. I have four other pairs of speakers in ceiling that are connected to the Sonance four selector box and the box is then wired into Zone 2. With this Denon, I can play the surround system with one source and control its volume while playing a seperate source through the Sonance box and control it volume with the zone 2 volume control on the receiver. You can select thee source and voluume for zone 2. One little quirk is that if I set my system to 9.1, it borrows the zone 2 amplifier to run the front height/width speakers, so you can't run the surround system on 9.1 and listen to any of the zone 2 speakers, not that you'd probably ever do that. It had me stumped when I wanted to listen to a zone 2 speaker and it didn't work. Took me a while to figure out that I had to reassign the amp to zone 2, no biggie, just a little step made easy by the on screen denon menu.

Oh, seem to remember that they supply a paper template, but it isn't stiff enough to use to position on the ceiling to chose a good position, so I used the cardboard piece used as packing. If I remember, it's the same size as the paper template, but holds its shape on the ceiling, can put the nail through its cnter, through the ceiling, then put the cardboard template over the nail tip like a record on a turntable when in the attic, then trace around it. Be sure to trim off the little square piece from the template so that it's a circle and so your helper doesn't trace around the extra piece and, gasp, cut a notch out of the circular hole!

Yes, I had seen those THX speakers for that price on eBay. I bought a pair of mine from eBay, seems like for $700the something a while back. The killer deal I got on the first pair was from Vann's back in late 2008: I almost thought it was a misprint.....they had them for $299 or $399, cant remember, apiece! And free shipping. I only bought one pair. I think you'll be happy with their performance and uncluttered look. I have the blown in cellulose insulation and just spread it back around the speakers when done since they're sealed enclosures. Get a new drywall saw, one of those black, fat- handled Stanley ones (Fat Max), and the cut will be super simple and neat. Use a black Sharpie to trace around the template and stay right on the line so that the hole isn't much bigger than the speaker. You want it to just slip through the hole. You'll be surprised how much drywall dust will be in the box and not all over you, in your eyes, and all over everything else.

We have some similar equipment, e.g., RF-7s, RC-64, the thx in ceiling speakers, so I think you'll like the sound. Somewhere in the 'show us your home theater' forum are some pics of my setup, complete with the thx speakers and Svs sub. Search for my user name. Yes, cutting the holes is a little work and some anxiety, but if you double check your position and use the nail trick, you can't go wrong since it will be obvious if there's a positioning problem when you locate the nail in the attic. You can move the template a little to adjust if needed because the old nail hole will be in the circular pieece cut out. Trying to cut from below is difficult and super messy, get covered with drywall dust, it goes everywhere. I did the first two the hard way but didn't have a helper. All the other ceiling speakers I did the easy way with helper holding wide box against ceiling. If you have a wide board to put across the two joists such that you can kneel and the hole you're cutting is at you knees, it'll also be easier. Clear a wide area of insulation. When you finish cutting, have the person remain holding the box and you sweep the cuttings from above through the hole and into the box. It's almost completely mess free. I think you'll like the thx ceiling speakers. They look really big, but when installd you just see a nice neat, large grill and it sure solves the cluttered look. About all you see with my system are the fronts, the center, and way over in the corner, the SVS sub. About the sub, it sounds great and the cyclinder shape fits nicely into a corner. You really don't notice it from the viewing position (I have a very large room), but you sure hear it and feel it!

I've got six of these installed in my ceiling. They are big and at first you wonder how the drywall will support them, but it's mostly just anxiety. They have several ears that rotate out and squeeze the drywall, so they spread out the load nicely. The biggest problem is getting over the anxiety of making some big round holes in your ceiling, b ut once you cut the first one and install those nice speakers, you'll quickly forget. I have access to my entire ceiling, so here's my installation procedure. I didn't use any rings or mounting reinforcement, just the ears on the speaker. No problems. The speakers come with a cardboard template for cutting. Working in the room, I used a stud finder and marked the edges with blue painter tape. Using the cardboard templates, I stuck them to the ceining with doubl stick tape or the blue painter tape. I positioned the template equally spaced between the studs I marked with blue tape and stuck it to ceiling. This let me try various positions on ceiling, move front to back or over between next studs, try out different positions. When happy with my position and making sure I was spaced between the studs using tud finer, I double checked position of the studs. It's easier to cut the holes from the attic side if you have access. A little trick will make it far less messy since you cut a long line doing the circular cutout. So back to the template stuck on the ceiling.....how to transfer its position to the other side of the ceiling? Well, I took a nail and put it through the center of the circular template, through the drywall, and then removed the template. Go in the attic, clear away the insulation and find the nail. I used nearby landmarks to quickly find the nail. Place the template center hole over the nail point which exactly locats the template above whn you marked below and draw a line around it (I trimmed off the tab on the template). Here's the cutting trick to eliminate the drywall dust mess......have a helper on a ladder below hold a box up to the ceiling that will cover the hole. Using a drywall saw, punch the saw through on the line you drew and begin sawing around the circle. All the dust falls into the box held against the ceiling by your helper and when you almost complete cutting the circle, grab the nail to support th circular piece and complete the cut. You don't want the large circle to fall and maybe tear the paper on you ceiling. Holding the nail, finish the cut and then let the circle drop into the box. You'll have a neat, albeit large, hole cut and zero mess. Install the speakers from below. Stand on the ladder and slip the speakers through the hole. They really aren't too difficult to hold up in the hole while you screw the ears down tight. Once you get two or three tighened, you don't have to hold the speaker. You can leave them slightly loose and rotate the speaker how you want, then tighgen all up. It's very secure and didn't need any additional support, brakets, etc. Hope this helps.

I like it. I haven't tried the far wide speakers as my setup already has the mains about 18 ft apart. I do think with my arrangement, the height channels really do add to the 'wall of sound'. Then again, I got lucky and have a large room that probably benefits from height channels. My thought is that as the room gets smaller, the extra speakers (whether height or width channels) start to bunch up and the effect diminishes. I could imagine a scenario where all the speakers are so relatively close together that it doesn't really add much. But in my case, I've got two big ol' speakers that are not only 10 above, but also slightly out wider than the mains in a big room, so I do notice an expansion of the front sound stage. To my understanding, when the height speakers are producing sound, the rear surrounds do not. Sometimes I'm aware that the heights are producing sound and every now and then, I'll notice the rears producing sound, but I've read that sound coming from the front of us is perceived better than sound coming from the rear. I usually run the receiver in 'multi channel input + Dolby PLIIz" mode, although Audyssey doesn't function in that mode. To get Audyssey to kick in, the receiver has to be in Dolby PLIIx mode.

Lol, he must be copying me!

Yes, it gets pretty warm, so I think I'll first try moving the shelf above up one setting, get a little more space between the top of the Denon and the glass shelf. I always keep the doors open when running it, and always leave them open when I turn it off. I may have to move the Oppo over to the top right and move the Yamaha CD player down on top of the Panamax. For cosmetics, I wanted to keep the Oppo above the Denon because they both have a ruby red light surrounding the power button. Minor, I know, but it looks like they were designed to go together. Moving the shelf up is the first option, then a cooling fan comes next. I'd hate to drop a channel in the Denon, 'cause it wasn't cheap!

You got me on the matrix question. Not sure how it does the 7.1 and 9.1 mixing. I do know that with the 7.1 and PLIIx, the rears are used more, but when switched to the PLIIz (height channels), the rears are basically silent and the extra output goes to the two THX height channels. It really does make a difference as far as expanding the 'sound stage' with the height channels, but I think it has a lot to do with my room size and shape. Those height channels are about 20 ft apart, but I fudged a little and rotated them so the horn points towards the sweet spot on the couch. It's not optimal but hasn't really seemed to make much difference, but the distance from the screen to the best listening spot on the sofa is slightly less than the distance between the two front mains. I've experimented with moving the couch forwards and backwards and for now I'm positioned just back of the L/R surrounds. There's kind of a tradeoff between moving the sofa back to get a little farther away from the speakers and getting too far from the 55" TV. I was playing around last night while watching Baraka and was standing about 7 feet (half the distance normally) from the TV. The picture is just amazing. It's still great at about 14 feet on the sofa but you do lose some of the impact because you're farther away. The room really could support a much bigger TV, but that alcove is really the only place to put it and that limited me to a TV no wider than 58", plus you have to be able to put a stand in there, so that's where the BDI cabinet came from. It's exactly the same width as the TV, so they go well together. No, don't mind about the picture. Yes, that's probably a little more accurate to what it looks like. The trim is white. The Canon is the first digital camera I've owned and I literally took it out of the box, charged the battery, put in the 32GB card, set it on full auto to begin, and took a test photo of the room. The light in the room was low and I was surprised how well the shot turned out considering. I guess that's the advantage of having a camera that can change the ISO. No wonder it could capture the image fairly well with ISO 3200! It does have a little grain, but I was just excited to have some pics to post. When I get a little more familiar with it, I'll start trying some of the other modes, like manual, AP, SP like I did with my old Nikon film camera. I don't have a tripod currently.

A shot of the equipment in the BDI stand with the smoked glass doors open. When I run the system, I keep the doors open because that big ol' Denon receiver can get pretty toasty warm, almost hot to the touch. Been thinking about adding a fan of some sort, but haven't decided yet. Top left is the Oppo blu-ray player, bottom left is the Denon 4810 9.1 receiver, top right is the older Yamaha carousel CD/DVD player that I use just for CDs, below that is the Sonance 4 speaker pair selector box sitting on top of the Panamax power supply. On top of the stand is Samsung's very first LED LCD TV, a 950 series, bought about 18 months ago. Samsung has come out with about three or four models after this one, but I don't see any need to upgrade.

Here's a shot of the wiring behind the BDI cabinet. I used those data port outlets (bought at Lowe's) that have the stiff fibers covering the opening, so there's more room for the cables. The wiring is 16 gauge. The main power cord goes to the Panamax box, then everything is connected to it. I bundled everything with zip ties and have the pairs of speaker wires together for each speaker. The Denon in the stand controls 18 speakers. The Zone 2 is wired to the Sonance box, then 4 pairs of speakers are coming off the box. I've got a new 6 speaker Sonance box, but haven't installed and don't have the other two pairs of speakers bought yet. Currently there are 18 speakers hooked up, can bring up to 22 total if I get around to adding the other two pairs. I actually meant to buy the Sonance model with the volume controllers and inadvertently bought the non-volume control version off eBay, but it was fairly inexpensive. The speakers on the two decks have in-wall volume controls, so no biggie anyway since they're the ones that is nice not to have to walk back inside to control. The sub is wired using 75 ohm coaxial cable (that's how they did it when building the house) and I just crimped on RCA phono plug connectors (they did have it kinda jury rigged using zip cord spliced onto the end of the coaxial cable since the PO's system didn't have the phono plug connections, just spring loaded speaker connections. The coaxial cable goes up into the attic, then over to the far corner (the sub is that black cylinder about 25 feet away), comes down in the corner and out through an electrical outlet cover. You don't see any of the wiring. The mains have only about 4 feet of wiring to be seen, so the whole installation looks very clean, especially with the in-ceiling speakers. It just sort looks like a typical stereo system (the components are hidden behind the smoked glass doors of the BDI stand), but it sounds like a big theater when you fire it up. If I sell the house, I'll probably make the system part of the house and sell it along with everything as a really neat feature. That way, the new owner doesn't have to buy a bunch of stuff to hook up. It'll be a turn-key system, 9.1 surround sound (thought about going up to 9.2 with another SVS sub in the opposite corner), with speakers in each room and on both patios. Nice sound systems seem to becoming the 'norm' with houses these days, so probably would help it sell (it helped with me having the beginnings of a nice sound system in place that I greatly expanded).

Even the bone doctor isn't immune from the crummy economy. I did all the work and wiring myself over a couple of weekends. I got a killer deal on the THX surrounds from Vann's for $399 each, ordered two of 'em. Had a little anxiety sawing two gigantic holes in the ceiling, but those big round grilles really blend in with the round recessed lights and they're not even noticeable. I bought the TV (it was about $4K), had the original Yamaha receiver and used my Yamaha carousel player for a while. Bought the Oppo blu ray player and splurged on the Denon receiver. The Panamax was worth the money if just for peace of mind protecting this stuff. The BDI stand was fairly expensive, but fit into the space perfectly and swivels left and right (the TV doesn't). Bought the RF-7s locally for $1400. I got a second set of THX speakers used off eBay for seems like around $700-800 and those are the front height channels. I don't think I would have popped for them at $999 MSRP, but they sure do disappear in the room and do sound nice. I like the way there's not much equipment to be seen. The SVS sub was about $1300, I think. Spent a couple hundred on wiring (I used 16 gauge), did all the work in the attic, including fishing wires down the inside of the wall between the TV and the fireplace, put in all the data port outlets, wired everything myself (not much fun to remove the Yamaha and put the Denon in its place). I was always pretty good at setting up stereos back in the day, but things sure have gotten complicated. I have a Sonance 4 speaker control box for Klipsch ceiling speakers in the master bedroom, bathroom, and the two decks and wired them into the Zone 2 of the Denon receiver. Got the receiver all set up for 9.1 and then couldn't for the life of me figure out why the sonance box didn't seem to be getting any sound. I figured that there was some conflict with the 9.1 system, so switched back to 7.1 (the speakers had been working), but still no sound when it had worked before. Luckily, the Denon has an on-screen menu that's not too complicated and I finally figured out that the 9.1 arrangement takes over the Zone 2 amplifier. When you switch back to 7.1 (if you want to used the 4 other sets of speakers), just gotta go into the setup menu and tell it to 'turn on' Zone 2 again. Only little glitch I found, but it had me stumped for a few weeks. Guess that's one of the benefits of wiring everything up yourself, you have a little better knowledge of how everything's connected. Case in point, the PO didn't know anything about HT, had a local company wire up his HT in a box. When he was moving, he said something about just 'cutting' all the wires to remove his system. I quickly said, 'don't do that, I do it for you'.

Here's his eBay user name: roger_signs (include the understrike). He makes all different kinds of signs from home theater, to poker rooms, to bars, businesses, etc. I don't have any connection to him, just happened to run across his signs while looking for something else.

Thanks. The whole house is painted in slightly different terra cotta shades. The ceiling in the main room is a little lighter and makes the room look bigger. A woman who lived with me insisted it was 'peach' and that we should repaint. Notice that there's no woman in the picture and that the walls are still the same color! But anyway, here's another angle. I turn the lights on in the alcoves above the shelves as a little bias light so that it doesn't hurt your eyes. I also usually set the TV to 'cinema' which isn't quite as bright. Yes, the arrangement of the rooms is one of the things that caught my eye and why I bought the house. The other rooms all open off the main room and there are no hallways in the house. The kitchen is completely open to the main room, too, and you can clearly see and hear the movie even standing in the kitchen. I had to buy some large furniture to fit the room.

Here's the file that wouldn't load, so I'll try again. I got this cool theater sign off eBay. A guy makes them custom for you. Lotus Valley is the name of the small neighborhood where I live. Lucky coincidence is that the script Lotus Valley matches the script on the nice sign at the front of our neighborhood. The guy can do this style or a more vertical style sign, complete with custom slogans and custom logos. Cost about $100 total for sign and shipping. If anybody would like his information, I can give it to you.

I zoomed in to the reflection on your TV, inverted the image and read the logo off the front of your camera. Ok....I think that only works in the movies. Nice. Watched Blade Runner a couple weeks ago - great great movie. Gotta see it at least once a year. Excellent room and setup, bonedoctor. Yep, Blade Runner. I remember seeing it in the theater in 1982. I just bought the 5 disc set. The version without the narration really is much better. On another note, a blu ray disc that'll knock your socks off visually and sound wise is Baraka. Check it out!