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lancethibault

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Posts posted by lancethibault

  1. I've been trying to figure out what sub to get.

    I'm concerned about putting a rear ported sub in a corner. I see the RW12d says it's a corner ported sub and maybe even front ported, but when I look at pics of the sub I don't see any ports. What am I missing?

  2. So the RC 35 has a little less power handling capability and it's not quite as deep as the 62 and 62ii.

    But do the three of these speakers sound any different? Will they all match up pretty good with a pair of RB 81s?

    I'm looking at used prices and the 35s go for so much cheaper I'm wondering what the arguements would be for getting 62s or 62iis.

    Thanks

  3. Got them today. Shipping box was trashed! One of the bottom corners wall smashed in and just about torn through on two of the adjacent sides. But the speakers survived! I'll take back at least 1/2 of all the bad things I've said about N.E. Pats fans over the last decade. Good deal man. Thanks.

  4. OK, that's a pretty unanimous "no".

    So either larger front L/R speakers or a smaller center channel. Smaller ctr channel certainly makes the purchase cheaper.

    My room is not ideal for surround sound at all. I know this, but I'll describe it and try to add some pics after I post this.

    The TV is in the corner of the room. The wall on the right side of the tv is windows with my 2 channel set up in front of them (also less then an ideal location for that set up). For my surround sound set up the right front speaker is going to have to sit on top of my RF-7 (I can't use the RF 7's as my front L/R speakers. I have no room on the left side of the TV for an RF-7 due to a fireplace.), but it will be angled toward the TV viewers. The living room measures 15.5 ft wide x 16.5 deep. It is wide open to the kitchen that adds another 19 ft of depth. It it partially open to the dining room/front room that measures 14x20 with 16ft cielings. The TV is viewed from about 14 ft.

    I know I can only fit the RS-42's. From the sound of the posts, I should try to match the front speakers to the ctr speaker and call it day. Will and RC-42 and RB-41s work for my room or should I go larger 50 or 60 series?

  5. I have the room for an RC 64 and I read somewhere that 70+% of your sound in a HT comes from the ctr channel speaker, so I want the best ctr channel speaker I can.

    The problem is that I don't have room on my right side (wall space occupied by door and windows) for surrounds bigger then the RS 42. So I thought if I had to have the RS 42, then I should probably use a pair of RB 41s for the front L/R speakers.

    Will this be OK or would I be better off matching my front L/R with my font Ctr and get a pair of the RB 61 speakers?

    Maybe an easier way to ask the question is;

    I will have a RC 64 and a pair of RS 42 speakers. What front L/R speakers should I buy?

    Thanks.

  6. 103db efficientcy.

    They play plenty loud and and sound good with 25W.

    I used to have a high gain 300W solid state amp powering them. I thought it sounding great. The bass was fantastic, but because of the gain on the amp I had next to nothing for volume control. I could literally use about 1/8 or less of the volume knob. At 1/4 turn you had to make a hell of an effort to understand what the person yelling to you from 4 ft away was saying. It was painful and very very unrealistic for everyday use.

    I wish I could have that bass with the volume control I have now.

    I'd really like to try the Quicksilver Silver 88s, but unless I get get for .25 on the dollar, that isn't gonna happen.

    I'm partial to quicksilvers hand wiring, no circuit boards, keep it simple style.

  7. I own RF-7s powered by quicksilver mini mites. (25W)

    The mini mites will take EL34, KT90, KT88, KT77, KT66, mini.jpg 6550 or 6L6 output tubes.

    They currently have their original EL34s in them. It think it sounds good, but I'm willing to make a change.

    Any suggestions? Any idea what changes I might expect to hear with a different type of tube?

    A little more bass would be nice. Would I need more power for that?

    Thanks.

  8. Nada, nothing, not a damn thing.

    I going to buy a 2 channel set up from scratch in a few months. I'm on a budget of about $3k. I recently had enough to begin my purchases, but then something unexpected and expensive came up and I no longer have that cash available. But, I'll have it available again in a few months.

    I think I've decided I'll pick up used Klipsch RF-7s. And I'd like to get my hands on a used Emotiva RPA-2 Amp (No longer in production). I was also going to go with the Emotiva RSP-2 preamp, but is also no longer in production. Since there's currently no Emotiva preamp available, that's what got me started looking at tubes preamps.

    Anybody ever tried a tube buffer out?

    http://www.pacificvalve.us/files/Yaqin_Tube_Buffer.pdf

  9. I haven't even begun to think about brands yet.

    I'm just trying to get an idea if it's better to go with tube amps or a tube preamp. To me it doesn't seem like amps should change the sound of whatever is coming out of the preamp. I'd like to be able to hook the preamp to the speakers and then not hear a difference when I add an amp to help drive the speakers later on. Of course there's no real way to prove this since preamps by themselves can't drive speakers, since they have no internal amps...right?

  10. I keep hearing that horns and tubes go very well together.

    I want to caviot this post with the thought that I'm only concerned with 2 channel stereo systems here. Guitar amps are another matter.

    To me it makes sense to get a tube preamp with preouts hooked to a solid state amp. After all, isn't an amp supposed to be transparent while increasing the available power for the speakers? I'm under the impression that a solid state amp would be better suited for this. Don't they typically provide more power, with a higher SNR vs tube amps? I would think solid state amps do a better job of reproducing the sound coming from the preamp, (whether tube or solid state itself) without addig their own...flavor to it. So if a person wanted that tube sound, a tube preamp with a solid state amp would be the way to go?

    However I keep seeing tube amps and I'm wondering what the advantage is?

    Anybody have some experience they can share?

    Thanks

  11. I own no speakers at this point.

    The hiss I'm refering to is the hiss I hear other people talk about. They buy a new amp, hook it all up and then state they can hear a hiss from x number of ft away or they can only hear a hiss if they put their ear right next to the speaker, which is often written off as somewhat of a "seashell effect" or the same effect you get if you cup your hand over your ear. Although to me that seems like it would be a different sound, but at the same time I can't imagine I would care about a slight hiss unless I could hear it from more then about 5ft.

    From what I gathered, this wasn't a phono input issue.

    Anyway, I am just in the learning stages here and trying to figure out what would make sense, once I do start purchasing seperates.

    I'm not sure how well your first recommendation would work. Don't most people use a trigger that turns thier amp on and off with the preamp. So if you turn off the preamp you are turning off the amp. In that case I would think if you're still hearing something, find out what the voice is saying and then go see a doctor. I kid, I kid.

  12. Thank you,

    So it would be the dynamic range that could cause speaker hiss when no music is playing.

    I say could because I know there are alot of things that can cause this, but lets assume everything else is perfect and it's the amp noise floor.

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