Mighty Favog

All right.... Till I have more time to dig into this, I disconnected the 14/2 at the next outlet upstream. Then I plugged in the polarity checker to that upstream outlet and it shows the hot and neutral wires are reversed. Is it just a simple fix to reverse the black and white wires at this outlet that feeds the bad outlet. I have some hesitations doing that, it just sounds weird. Before the bad outlet went dead, she was using a heat gun that she said started a acting as if it was getting less and less electric and then went it wouldn't work at all.

I see the point but now I have to ask the (rhetorical) question; why did this happen now? I haven't done any work to the electric in this house in years.

Some continuity tests coming:

All right, I'm under the assumption the next outlet upstream is on an adjoining wall. By itself, it tests fine and appliances work fine from it. The circuit tracer transmitter shows a bright steady green light to say it's working. I swapped in a new receptacle with that outlet anyway just in case something was wrong with the "output" to the, now, bad outlet. But nothing has changed. The same wall the bad outlet is on also has the electric service for our electric stove and three switches that controll the ceiling lights and ceiling fan. All of which are not on the same circuit as the bad outlet. In looking in the basement, the stove light service goes into a non-accessible crawl space so I can't even look there to check its condition.

O.K., we found which circuit breaker the bad outlet is on and it's not the one the GFI is on. I even swapped out the socket again with another new one with the same result.

Not yet. But the other appliances on that circuit are doing fine. 🤯

This house has copper wiring. The outlet is non-switched. I'd change the breaker if I could tell which one it is. Need a 2nd person here 'cause I don't feel like running up the steps each time. The transmitter to my signal tracer has a faint flicker of the green LED instead of a bright green. That might be a clue.

The only thing left I can think of is amperage.

That's what I was thinking too. But on 4 different appliances? And with a new socket AND the old socket?

Just a sec. Getting pics of what I've done....

There's only one GFI and it's in another room. It covers two bathrooms and the kitchen.

So am I! I tried a small blender, a toaster and a radio all in the same outlet and all are dead.

Did all but the A/C and the furnace

Yes, it says 122.2 AC.

So, we were using a 110v outlet at the kitchen counter. The appliance is a vaccum sealer for canning food. All is well for a few days. Now, the sealer isn't working. In fact nothing works from that outlet anymore. -Circuit breakers: check -CGFI: working fine. -Replaced socket with quality Leviton unit: check Then I go to test it with a noid light. It shows there's current present. I use a polarity 3-light tester, all shows correct and current is present. Never could find the correct breaker with the circuit tracer so I just shut off the whole house before swapping out the outlet. Still at a loss......

Might just get these myself. But I have NO space for em'. 🤨 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/246080674967235/?mibextid=dXMIcH

https://www.facebook.com/100044448728871/posts/pfbid02p6kkbFFcxkma2pdhopS4vih5x8eWY2MSU3m7uFTZLRQCHFT8C8yzTxEJ73ok4UeVl/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Had a situation with my KG4's where I asked for a better pic of the labels but when I went to pic them up, the labels were gone.

You?

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I'm not wasting time....LOL!

Was hoping someone was gonna say Mrs. Favog...