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Amstaff

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Posts posted by Amstaff

  1. 17 hours ago, Banks said:

    im buying a 77" tv but worrying if it can be placed on rc64ii. Did you manage to do it?

    I would guess the 77" TV weight itself will not be an issue for an RC-64. However, do verify that the TV stand will fit correctly(completely) on the speaker. I have an 85" TV and the stand legs are wider apart than the width of a RC-64, so it would not work. Me thinks a 77" TV falling off the speaker will make for a bad day.

     

  2. That is a reasonable TV and reasonable speakers. But that says nothing.

     

    What size room are you in? What AVR will you drive these with? What will you be listening to? TV/movies I assume? Are you going to get a subwoofer? Any surrounds - or strictly 3.0 or 3.1?

     

    Welcome to the forum....and the rabbit hole 🙂

     

     

  3. I lined my RF7's up where they are toed in so the line from the center of each speaker would intersect about a foot or so behind the MLP - I did not over think it.

    Not sure anything else would make a noticeable difference. Not sure if what I did would make an noticeable diff to any other position.

     

    Try it and see. Good luck 🙂

     

  4. What does your existing Onkyo not do for you? It seems like a robust receiver. If there are certain features your are lacking and want obviously look for those. The receivers look to be all reasonably similar in power output.

    The Marantz 7706 looks to be a pre-amp only. What amp would you use?

     

    Or, you may just want one, which is fine too 🙂

     

  5.  

    Ok - so what I understand you already had a powered sub - right? The "Boss woofer". This was discretely powered - right?

    Where was this attached to your receiver?

     

    What is the Boss stuff you had? Car audio stuff?

     

    Plug the Klipsch s/w in the same port. Likely Pre Out SW

    Connect to the line in on the sub.

     

    Make sure the gain is all the way up (be gentle with the AVR volume). 

    Try it.

    Make sure you have a bass heavy source (not a news channel etc). Adjust the gain to where u think it sounds ok. 

     

    I have never had your setup - just saying something to try.

     

     

  6. Yes. I have a Salamander Designs Synergy 345 - link below. This stand has space for my RC-7. My RC-7 measures 26"W, 9.1"H and 13.5"D.

    Your RC-64iii is 35.8W, 8"H and 15"D.

    The center speaker opening in my Synergy 345 is over 40" - so the RC64-iii will be a perfect fit.

     

    https://www.salamanderdesigns.com/av-cabinets/synergy-model-345/

     

    There is a fair amount of customization that can be done when ordering. It comes unassembled and goes together like any other furniture you put together.

    I searched high and low for this back in 2009. I could not find anything to fit the height of the RC-7. IIRC the height of the opening is listed at 9". I had to remove the rubber feet on the center shelf to get the RC-7 in there. You won't have this issue.

    I have an 85" Sony TV on top too.

     

    They are not cheap, but good stuff is usually not.

    • Like 1
  7. I bought a Salamander Designs Synergy TV stand specifically to accommodate the center speaker (RC-7) in my case.

     

    If you need a shelf only. You may need to fabricate one yourself. And, ensure it is anchored to wall studs not the drywall (unless your walls are brick or concrete as they are in some parts of the world). 

  8. I had a similar issue with my older Denon AVR-4311Ci. It was relegated to the bedroom and I got a new bedroom TV (LG CX OLED). Both say ARC - not really compatible. Ended up the Denon ARC was "old" spec. I bought a new model (2020 or 21? Yamaha - RX-V4A)  receiver and all works great. Not as powerful as the Denon - but it is the bedroom.

     

    Yes, ARC has some challenges especially with old vs new stuff. Optical worked fine on the Denon....but I wanted ARC functionality 🙂

     

     

     

  9. 28*8*8 is a big space.

     

    Do NOT get hung up on a Klipsch sub (Klipsch speakers are awesome, better subs to be had).

     

    I have a 18*12 room (9ft ceilings), open at back to the kitchen area. The SVS-PB16Ultra does awesome (replace a Klipsch RSW-15 worked well, but Klipsch reliability with their on-board powered subs has been questionable) ).No room is perfect. Not sure my SVS is "enough on paper" for my room - but to me it works just fine.

     

    You can always turn a sub's volume  down. 🙂

     

     

     

     

  10. I like the amp idea. 

    You still need at least 9.2 channels in the AVR as the AVR will do all of the sound processing. You would send 5 pre-outs from the AVR to the amp for the LCR & 600Ms.  AVRs with this many channels are typically are on the higher end of the power scale. Take a look at the AVRs on crutchfiled.com. Filter your selection by channels - 9.2 and 11.2. Price range starts around $1500 USD.

     

     

     

  11. Me thinks - the 504C maybe a tad much for the 600Ms. Any chance you can go with floor standers in place of the 600Ms?

    You will likely need to fabricate a Center mount. Someone else may know of one, I do not.

    Are you saying 4ft from the screen to the seats? How large is the screen? Sounds awful close.

     

    Buy Klipsch speakers all day, but when it comes to sub woofers - look around. Better ones out there.

     

    The Denon AVR-X4700H is quite a bit more than you will likely need - unless you upgrade the fronts to floor standers.

     

    All my 2 cents, good luck

     

     

    • Like 1
  12. Add one more thing about clipping - 

    There is always a weakest link, maybe the speakers may be the amp/avr. Ideally (IMO) you want an amp/avr that will push as much CLEAN power as your speakers can handle. Now, if you crank you amp/avr higher than that (no longer clean powwer) you blow your speakers due to too much power, or u kill your amp/avr. Alternatively, you crank up an amp/avr that is rated way lower than your speakers and it starts sending high levels of THD you can fry your speakers too (or your amp/avr too).

     

    The volume knob is your friend. Use it wisely. And keep drunk friends away from it.

     

    More rabbit hole stuff.

     

     

    • Like 2
  13. I would suggest looking at the high end of the mid-range AVRs, price point around the $2k USD mark. You will need at least 9.2 channels. This gives you 9 amplified channels and 2 sub outs (non amped). You listed 9 speakers. 

    Examples: Yamaha RX-A3080, Denon AVR-X6700H, Marantz SR7013

    Bear in mind, the advertised specs on AVRs typically tell wattage with 2 channels driven only, drive more channels, you will have less wattage available. Also, watch the THD % number - big wattage with big THD = not good, rule of thumb.

     

    $2k may sound like a lot for an AVR - but you get sound processing and amplification in one unit. It keeps things more simple, but will not compete with a discrete processor and powerful amplifier(s).

     

    Question: When you play "club-like" music and are dancing, will you only drive the fronts(RP-8000F)? I.E stereo? or would you want the sound to play thru all 9 speakers? All 9 may be an issue. The ceiling speakers you listed are rated at 50W RMS/200W peak. If you only need to run close (less than) to 50W on all 9 speakers you should be OK with an AVR. If you want to "blast" the fronts 150W RMS  / 600W peak - and only 2 channels, the AVR should suffice too. Not sure you will get club-like sound out of a stereo soundstage though. 

     

    Welcome to the rabbit-hole 🙂

     

     

    • Like 3
  14. 7 hours ago, chetanh said:

    What is the main difference between RF7-iii and the RP8000F. Is the price difference worth it?

    Tell us more about the power you will send these speakers. Amp/Pre-Amp/AVR?

    At normal HT levels you may or may not notice the diff - unlikely to notice IMO.  However, if you run them "hard" the RF-7iii will take the cake.

    Specs:

    RF-8000F 98db 150W/600W

    RF-7iii 100db 250w/1000W

     

    2 Rf7-iii and RC-64iii - slam dunk if money is no option....but then the club requirement comes into play.

     

    You want club sound ? The Rf7-iii is much better. However, you will likely need more than 2, and a few subs well placed AND the power to drive them  - otherwise will not be like a club. 

    I said in my earlier post ~750 ft2 is a large space. You may be better off with 4 or 6 RF-8000F and a few subs for the club stuff - just need the stuff to drive them.

  15. The OPs are is pretty large ~700-750 ft2 - gonna take some serious power to fill that with club-like sound. 

    Budget 10k CAD = 8k USD - while this is a lot of money it is like not enough. You will be able to buy decent stuff, get decent sound, but not the club-like sound it appears you are looking for.

     

    I agree with the other posts - spend more on the speakers than on the other stuff. The other stuff will come and go every few years, good speakers will endure the test of time. Klipsch is an excellent choice for the speakers. Sub - consider other brands. The SVS PB16-Ultra - a beast of a sub will set you back $2,500 USD alone - one of these may or may not be enough for that space.

     

    Buy a decent 85" TV and spend the rest on the sound.

  16. On 3/4/2021 at 12:13 AM, Sol Goode said:

    ... The receiver has a power output of 100w for each channel,....

    I see you have changed your mind about this receiver however, your statement above is not correct.

     

    You can drive 2 channels at 100W  with 0.08% THD

    Power Output (8 ohm, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% 2ch Drive) 100 W

     

    I do not see the wattage for all channels driven but it will be less than 100W. Probably still plenty of wattage depending on how loud you play your stuff. Just one more thing to think about 🙂

    Welcome!

  17. My first "real" AVR was a Yamaha RX-Z1 purchased back in the early 2000s. It weighed 62 lbs or so, a behemoth. Specs were 130Wx6 RMS (8ohms, 20Hz-20kHz, 0.015% THD). Not sure the spec measurement was the same back then.

     

    I "upgraded" to a Denon AVR-4311Ci in 2012 - specs: 140 watts per channel into 8 ohms (20-20,000 Hz) at 0.05% THD, with 2 channels driven. 38 lbs. I upgraded for the HDMI input/outputs. I never thought the sound sounded as loud and clear as the RX-Z1. This is my opinion only.

     

    In 2016 I "upgraded" again to a Yamaha RX-A3060 - specs: 150 watts per channel into 8 ohms (20-20,000 Hz) at 0.06% THD, with 2 channels driven. 40 lbs. I felt I needed to go back to Yamaha, and wanted 4K and the new "stuff". I feel this is better than the Denon, but not as loud and clear as the RX-Z1.

     

    I have kept my RX-Z1, thinking one day I could use it as an amplifier. I still have the Denon 4311Ci too. Not sure I will use either of them again and is likely time to sell them.

     

    That is why I am "obsessed" with weight and receivers - the best sound I think i have heard was from the 62 lbs RX-Z1. And, it has made me a Yammy fan.

     

    Good luck. I have never tried an Onkyo....maybe next 🙂

     

     

     

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