maxsdad

My wife says my LSI's are ugly and don't match the den, but Belles would be nice. I can neither find nor afford Belles, so...

Well, the Chi-coms have gotten my attention again! I love my little LePai 2020 t-amp, and while I was looking for a second for the upcoming cornscalas ( bought the oak for the cabinets today), I saw a thing called a "class A valve buffer". Actually there are three - a class A, $69.00, a $49.00 that is slightly different, and a $44.00 one that seems just like the $49 one in a different case. They all have o single tube sticking up in the middle, and are supposed to go inline amp/preamp or cd/preamp. Two of them are in clear plastic lexan open side cases, the other in a silver aluminum case. Can anybody tell me what the devil these are and do I need one? The name of the seller/manufacturer i "indeed-hi-fi-lab". ?????????????????

Ok, I just finished loading two of my LSI's into the new owner's truck, and I'm trying to make a decision before this money starts a fire in my wallet. What i really want is Khorns, but I have no available corners other than the one my wife would chase me into to beay me to death if I suggest tearing out the brich hearth or moving the steps to the den to build a wall. I have two possibilities - 1. Overhaul the other pair of LSI, make them oak and use them, as all the parts are new, including a set of rebuilt Klipsh AA's that I just installed after getting them form Bob Crites. I talked to the techs at klipsch, who said the new LaScalas have thicker walls for rigidity and tighter bass, so I would probably laminate 1/2 or 3/4 hardwood plywood to the existing cabinet and finish them from there. Or: 2. Build a set of Cornscalas, using the components from the LSI cabinets. Problem is, I just bought the AA's, and they won't work. Other than that, the material cost is about the same. I sure do hate the thought of eating those 5 day old devils. My question to those of you who have dealt w/ Cornscalas - Is the improvement worth eating the AA's? I certainly don't dislke the performance of the Lascala, I think it's great, and I have a serious subwoofer that would make whales wim up on yhe beach if I was by the ocean, but will I get appreciably closer to the sound of the Khorn with the Cornscala? I greatly prefer the midrange of the Lascala over the Cornwall, having actually had both set up in my den to compare directly. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know what years the K-55m midrange and square magnet K-77's were used in lascalas?

Many thanks to all who responded to my question - I set the tv on top and it was fine. Originally I wanted to use all four Lascala's for 5.1, but putiing #3 in line with the fronts on Dolby 3 channel stereo - WOW!!! I may not even put back channels on! I think I'd be better off to sell LSI#4 and use the money for a flat panel tv. Thanks again.

I have finally talked my wife into letting me reconfigure the den to allow for using one of my back channel LSI's as a center. The proposed plan was to sell the remaining LSI & put the proceeds toward a plasma or lcd flat screen, which would be placed above the center, giving me 3 LSI's across the front and Heresy rears. My question is this: in the interim between the reconfiguration and getting the new tv, our existing conventional tv would need to live on top of the center spkr, and all those magnets will surely raise issues w/ the tv, as they are obviously not shielded. Is there a way to circumvent this? I thought maybe a couple sheets of 3/4" foil-faced R-max insulation might block the magnets, but I am not well versed in these matters. Any wisdom will be appreciated.

Well, the Lepai arrived! LED on volume knob lasted 2 hours, but the amps amaking!! Hooked it up to Heresy's, and was blown away! Very quiet after the initial startup pop, ran it for about six hours, stayed cool to the touch. Channels balance perfectly, judging by imaging on tv sound. Bass & treble controls function well, and I have yet to go pst the 11 o'clock poswition on the volume. Will try it on LSI's next. They have another model called amp one, which Daddy Dee said used a different chip & produces 45+45 watts. Is it any good? Costs $139 + $40 to ship.

I just opened up my Cornwalls and saw the k-77, k-33 as I expected, but both midrange drivers have the "PWK" on the flare, but the drivers are stamped with;K-52H. is this the right driver? Klipsch website is down from this computer.

THANKS!!!

Just picked upew Cornwalls tags read CWO, #'s 35Y298; 35Y298. I'm curious as to the year of manufacture. I'm going to open the backs & check drivers & crossovers next.

Thanks to all for the input. Both K-55M drivers are going to Bob Crites for new diaphrams and coming home with fresh AA crossovers. As to the suspicion re: used stuff, not to worry - I got a great deal and planned to relace the AL's anyway. I am still way ahead on cost and a very happy camper!

Hi! I'm new to the forum but have made high end custom wood designs for many years. The previous advice is very sound, but let me add: 1. That woodgrain is a veneer - a very thin veneer, and what's underneath will not be as pretty. 2. A power sander is a very handy and potentially VERY destructive tool. Imagine being able to go 4000 times faster than you did by hand. Now imagine doing while you hand was numb and you can't feel what it's doing. Let just the wight of the sander do the work, and check your depth of cut constantly. I use 100 grit to radius the edges off of corners or remove large amounts of stock very quickly with a randon orbit sander. Always keep the sander moving when it is on the work, or it will dig a hole in the veneer. 3. In terms of grit number - My rule is to use the finest grit that will get the job done. Remember that you may not see them, but each grit leaves scratches that the next finer grit replace with finer scratches, and each set of those scratches is made by removing wood. Look at a cross section of veneer plywood and compare the veneer layer to the structural plies. Your skin is many times thicker! If I can't rub it on my forehead , I don't rub it on veneer. Nothing brings the gratification of seeing woodgrain come to life under your touch. enjoy!

I just checked my midrange horns, & they are K-55m, made I beleive by EV. What, if any, is the difference between this and the Atlas K-55V?

I finally got to take my newly acquired LSI's home & hook 'em up. Two or three songs into the test run, I heard a buzzy rattle come from the right rear, but it was fine on the next song. I thoght maybe it was just some stuff shaking on the wall, but later I noticed that there is no sound coming from the midange horn (K-55 w/AL crossover). I have less than zero tech experience, so I'm coming to the well of knowledge - any ideas?

I have four LSI's, three of which match. they have somewhat rounded corners and are radiused around the horn openings . The fourth has metal edge guards and the horn orifices are 90 degree edges. I have read in other postings that the LSI came in several configurations, one of which being fiberglass. How might I tell if the three "rounded" units are of that type? I had intended to remove the metal edge guards and do a little shaping in the fourth to make it match the others, but don't want to wreck the cabinet. Any Ideas?