brandonnash

I really don't care too much about the thx badge (which isn't even on it). What I'm asking is more toward is the hi frew filter bulit into the crossover or is it something added seperately? All I want is a crossover that blends the woofer and tweeter and doesn't fudge with the sound past that. Like I said before if its something I can tweak out i'd like to give it a shot. If not that's ok too. These are pretty nice and for the price I paid they're a great value.

I just purchased a pair of kpt-200's today for a very good price, at least I think they're a good price. I don't know what they usually go for. My question about them is also related to the kpt-100. I am running the 100 as my center channel and was going to use the 200's as surround in my home system. I have la scalas as front left and right and have noticed that the top end of the frequency response is a bit relaxed with the 100 and also with the 200. Looking at the website it says it has high frequency protection circuits. Is there a way to defeat that? Just wanting to see if the difference would be worth the trouble. The guy I bought them from also has some 904's and says he has some 942's and they are also ultra cheap. They don't come with a crossover I know so I would have to make one or get a behringer 2496 or minidsp to handle the 24 db slope that's recommended. The Guy has a lot of these so if anyone wants a great deal let me know and I will pass along his number.

I still like this one http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html a bit better. It has a selecable high pass filter on it so you can fit it more to your needs better. It's sold out now, but they have a new stock coming in soon it looks like.

If you are settled on a 10 cubic foot box then I would try and do an 18 hz tune and bump up the port size to at least 6" diameter circle port. 8" would be better. The reason for going so big on those is to try and tame any port chuffing. With the 8" port it will be non existent. The 6" may be able to be heard on the loudest of tracks, but it will still be ok with normal playing. The 4" ports would have way too much air moving through them. You do have to remember that you're going to need a high pass filter with something like this too. Elemental designs sells one thats $100 and has high pass filtering down to 5 hz. If you wanted an amp with the subsonic filter built in you can go and look at an o-audio bash amp that's 500 watts. It has a subsonic filter that's adjustable right in your range. The reason for the filter is when you get below the port tuning frequency and if it's playing loudly you will bottom out the driver pretty hard. This will keep that from happening. Unless you don't play it loud at all ever then the high pass filter is a necessity not an option. BTW, the behringer amps are great for home use. I have an ep2500 and have had no problems with it at all. Measured distortions with it are inaudible and also have a lower distortion % than most home theater multi channel amps. if you decide on the behringer you will get an honest 2000 watts from it which would be enough to run a second sub off of when you decide to get a second sub.

The THT (Tuba Home Theater) is a very good subwoofer. It's nearly flat to 20 hz and has useable output to about 15 hz if you use a good high pass filter. They're not expensive either. The THT will outperform the dayton RF by miles. The only downsides are they are big and they are more difficult to build, yet I've hear they're not that hard to build. The plans are apparently very well written and easy to follow. I'm a big believer in horn subwoofers now since I've heard danley gear and now have a DTS-10. How much are you wanting to spend overall?

I'm always looking for good used equipment. A nice reference line would be good but usually out of my price range for the ones I like. The synergy line is ok, but doesn't have the sound that I like that comes from the reference line. A friend of mine in Nashville is selling his 5 channel setup that includes RF-7's and those are very nice. I wants badly. Just not a good time for me though.

Those are very nice drivers. Very nice sound, metal cone, and cheap to boot! Only problem is they need a large enclosure, especially if you go ported. For that driver you should look at building a LLT (Large Low Tuned) enclosure. I don't have WinISD up right now, but I can remember modeling somewhere in the 15 cubic foot range with a lower (15 or so hz) tune. Put the right kind of power to it without over extending it and you'll have something that will compare to most commercial subwoofers that cost nearly 10 times as much as the driver. Try downloading that WinISD and see what you can come up with. Half the fun is designing something like this to call your own.

Can't comment directly on a DTS-10 vs DTS-20 since I've not heard the 20, but this thing was designed to perform with nearly the same output as the TH-50 but with better extension. It all started with a subwoofer meet I had at my house in April http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1127851. We had subwoofers big and small, diy and commercial, and cheap to expensive. They were all special in their own way. The commercial subs at the $200 or so price point have really come along in the past few years. The Danley stuff played last and the TH-50 surprised us all. Very high SPL's and very VERY clean sounding also. It was such a hit that shortly after the meet Tom Danley contacted myself and another AVS member (and klipsch owner BTW) at the meet saying he wanted to design something more home theater friendly that would meet todays demands for motion picture soundtracks. After a couple "feeler" threads for size and such Tom got to designing this and after a few months of back and forth emailing it came to life. Now, getting back to the subwoofer meet and another reason it ties in with my post here is that I've had a chance to hear several subwoofers in my room and none compare to this new DTS-10. With other subs I've heard from higher end companies like Revel, Wilson, JL, Mcintosh, Paradigm, etc none of them compare either. I'm now a firm believer in horn technology for subwoofers.

I'm the guy who started the thread over on AVS. Truthfully I believe the DTS-10 is a good match with Klipsch speakers. The higher sensitivity of the Klipsch mate well with something that takes very little power to get it going. I'm in a situation right now with my mains in that they can't keep up. I have some little Athena bookshelf speakers and they just won't make the cut when hitting the peaks in movies. I'd LOVE to get some Klipsch mains to go along with the DTS-10. I'm hoping that a little extra cash with find it's way in my pocket and then into a Klipsch dealers hands. Either that or maybe I can find some good deals on used Klipsch items that will fit the bill for my system. We'll see what happens with that. Overall I'm very happy with the DTS-10. Since getting it in my new placement I'm now getting rid of an Elemental Designs 18" very large DIY ported subwoofer. Even that thing won't hang with the DTS-10. I'm going to give my eD subwoofer to a friend of mine who needs some more bottom end and has very little cash. I'd recommend the Danley to him but he doesn't have that much extra money to spend on a new sub.

Alright, I do believe it is the woofer. I don't know how it could've done this from a fall from a speaker stand, but the magnet looks to have been bent away and separated from the basket. After seeing this I know what's wrong with it I think. I believe the pole piece may be pushed against the voice coil. I think I can confirm this by the reason that I can't push the cone of the woofer in at all. It's stuck in place not moving at all. It should have a nice easy push to it. I tried this on one of my other woofers and had no problem pushing it a little with no resistance at all. Guess I will go ahead and get another woofer unless someone knows how to fix it. I don't know how to get the magnet off this woofer. I think if I were to bend back the internals to the original location it may function again. Like I said, the money is not a problem at all. It just gets me that I'm going to pay for a replacement part that costs more than the whole speaker when I bought it.

I will try that out jukebox. Good idea. May give that a shot right now after I get finished cleaning the mess that my young kids make out of the house every day. Thanks again.

No fuses. I'm going to take the woofer out tomorrow and just hook it up to a source to see if there is any bass response. If there is, then it has to be the crossover.

I just thought about posting here since Klipsch bought Athena[] but then put them out of business [:'(]. My next set of speakers will absolutely be Klipsch. I love their sound, but right now I'm broke and don't have the money for a new set. Here's the problem. I have a set of Audition series from Athena that include 4 of the AS-B1 first gen bookshelf speakers. One of them took a tumble off it's speaker stand the other day thanks to my dog and now the speaker is very quiet and the woofer barely plays at all. I've taken the speaker apart and nothing seems loose on the crossover and the woofer isn't making any weird scraping noise when pushing on the cone. I don't know if this is something I can fix or if I need to just order a new woofer and/or a new crossover to put in it. Plus the fact that the replacement woofer ($38) and the crossover ($21) are combined more than I payed for a set of 2 of the whole speakers new puts me off a bit. Any test ideas to see what's wrong or how it could be fixed?