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Boomzilla's Achievements

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  1. Hi Bill - These are the Walnut vinyl wrap. Thanks!
  2. Audio-gd DAC-19 - $275 - older model but working perfectly Audio-gd HE-1 preamplifier - $1,490 Emotiva T2 speakers - $750 (pickup in Baton Rouge, LA only) Ashly FTX-2001 Series III power amplifier (Class-A voltage stages & Mosfet output stage - 500 wpc @ 4 ohms) - $235 ALSO... WTB: Used pair of Cornwall IV within 150 miles of Baton Rouge, LA.
  3. I have a larger (33x15x9) room and a new set of Klipsch RP-600m speakers. I also have a pair of 15" downward-firing subs. My crossover (JL Audio CR-1) is capable of discreet R/L stereo bass management. At what frequency should this pair of satellites be crossed over to the subs for stereo audio use only? I've had audio amigos advise me that I should set the crossover as closely as possible to the -3dB roll-off point of the satellites, but as I see it, this has numerous potential disadvantages: 1. The acoustic roll-off of the speakers will be added to that of the upstream electronic crossover, causing asymmetrical crossover rates between the satellites and the subs. 2. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites will be increased because of the higher woofer excursion on the satellites. 3. The single 6.5" woofers of the satellites will be stressed at high volumes in my room. I've (conversely) also had other audio amigos recommending to me that since I do have two subs, and because those subs will (initially) be located as closely as possible to the satellites, that I set the crossover to as high a frequency as possible (150 Hz. with the JL). As I see it, this does have some advantages, but also some disadvantages: On the plus side: 1. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites should be minimized because the longer excursions required for lower bass will be handled by the subs (whose larger cone area will minimize distortion for the same volume). 2. The amount of current required to run the satellites will be greatly reduced allowing the use of much lower wattage tube amplifiers if desired. 3. By judicious use of the phase knob on the sub's plate amps, I can move the subs more independently of the satellite locations. But on the minus side: 1. Having a higher crossover frequency may allow the transition from satellites to subs to become more audible. 2. At higher frequencies, acoustic localization of the subs may become more likely. 3. The downward-firing design of the subs may muffle the higher frequencies. The specific subs being used are Powersound Audio S1510DF models, a sealed-box design that has worked well in my room before. I plan to use the JL crossover with 24dB / octave slopes, rather than the more ubiquitous 12. So noting that movie soundtrack use is NOT a priority for this system, where should the crossover point be set? Thanks in advance for your help - Boomzilla
  4. What you need isn't wattage, but CURRENT. At 3 ohms, you want an amplifier that will supply sufficient current without overheating AND have a high enough damping factor to control the woofers well. Everything that follows is my humble opinion: Get an amplifier capable of a minimum of 200 watts (more is better) Get an amplifier with LOTS of power supply capacitance (you'll have to check the specs) Get an amplifier with LOTS of output transistors (more is better) Any amplifier that meets the above criteria should be already rated for 4-ohm loads. I like Emotiva amps - they come with a 30-day return option, they meet the above criteria, and I've used them before with low impedance speakers with tough crossover phase angles and the amps not only provided tight bass but also did so while sounding good and running cool. Happy shopping.
  5. What kind of advice is this? Most "owners manuals" are written in Chinese/English amalgams that make no sense at all. Most omit important information. Most assume knowledge that the new owner often does not have. Don't you think that if the answer actually was in the manual, the poster would have found it BEFORE posting on a forum for help? Your advice is not only useless but also insulting. Rereading garbage does NOT improve comprehension. Stop it, Dennie - just stop.
  6. My last post to this thread applies to all of us equally: Clairvoyance costs extra. Pace
  7. Well, excuse me, Dave - your statement didn't say "they might have been dropped," or "they appear to have been dropped," or even "in my opinion they've been dropped." Instead you said (and I quote): "At least one, if not both, cabinets were dropped on the rear corners from over five feet, that resulted in significant joinery splits that compromised their performance - period" I asked specifically if you had knowledge of this - it appears you don't. Unless you're a physicist who knows the exact compression force required to compress Klipsch's plywood by a specific amount versus the force developed by acceleration during fall, then your "over five feet" theory is a complete, unsupported, and very silly guess. I'm supposing that your "I have seen plenty of speaker corner drops..." statement is similarly unsupported? In fact, Dave, everything (repeat everything) that you've said is complete speculation on your part without a shred of evidence. That and a buck will buy you a cup of McCoffee. The question I'd like for you to answer is just WHY you feel obligated to disparage my speakers, which you haven't seen, haven't heard, and know absolutely NOTHING about? Had you taken the trouble in the first place to say that you were speculating, I'd have taken no offense, but you didn't. You made a flat out, categorical statement that my speakers had been dropped over five feet and had suffered damages because of that. "Res ipsa loquitur" (the thing speaks for itself) applies to your statements Dave. Absolutely shameful.
  8. OK - That's news to me. Have you firm information that your assertion is factual, or are you just speculating? The cabinets don't appear to be leaking air; to me the corner damage appears cosmetic rather than structural. Please elaborate.
  9. Alas, the Cornwall 3s are headed for that big speaker junkyard in the sky (aka eBay). Try as I might, I just never could get them to sing sweetly in my room. Is it the speaker, the room, the electronics, or the doofus listener? We may never know. What is clear without a doubt is that as good as the Cornwall 3s might be, they just aren't a speaker for everyman. My experience yet again reinforces the truism "try it before you buy it." My next three potential candidates are Heresys on stands with a sub, PSB Synchrony Ones, or Magnepan 1.7s with a sub. I'll try ALL extensively before making a choice, and in my room with my electronics. THANK YOU to all who have posted suggestions and information on this thread. I appreciate you taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge. I've learned some things from the thread, for sure, and have enjoyed the experience. Cordially - Boomzilla
  10. In my experience, the Altecs need a touch of equalization to sound as neutral as the K-horns. In the lower reaches of the Altec horn, it has a distinctive cry.
  11. NO disconnect whatsoever. The speakers are just as designed and manufactured - they play like new. I don't like their sound. They're as they should be, though. For those who like the Klipsch Cornwall 3 sound - that's what you get.
  12. To date, other speakers that have been used in the EXACT SAME LOCATIONS of the room with excellent bass results include: Thiel 1.6 Thiel 3.6 Klipsch La Scala 1 Klipsch La Scala 2 Klipsch Cornwall 1 Klipsch Heresy 1 Klipsch Heresy 2 KEF 2-way bookshelfs on stands (don't recall models) Definitive Technology SM65 monitors on stands Dayton Audio 2-way 6.5 inch monitors on stands And at least a half-dozen others that I forget The ONLY speakers that have sounded sloppy, boomy, and without pitch definition are the Cornwall 3 speakers. Now is it the room, or is it the "rumble boxes?"
  13. The speakers are mine, not yours. I'm allowed to ask any amount I consider feasible. I set the asking price, not you. Don't post on MY thread, as 'Budman' Russ did, saying that you sold yours for half the price I'm asking - what you sold yours for is YOUR business. Don't post on MY thread, as Mike Stehr did, pointing to a completely different set of speakers on eBay and implying that I'm asking too much - what Cornwall ONES sell for has NOTHING to do with what Cornwall THREES are worth. My speakers are worth whatever I can get for them. Don't like my price? Ask politely if I'll consider less - DON'T muck up my thread with extraneous information having NOTHING to do with the speakers that I'm selling. In short: Mind your own effing business and stop trying to piddle in mine! Consider this ad expired. The "A-hole" to "potential buyer" ratio here is astronomical. I'll sell my equipment elsewhere and the next time I have anything to sell, be it a Klipsch product or not, I'll darn sure NEVER post it here. What a bunch of internet losers you jokers are! I reread this post and thought about modifying it, but then decided, no, it needs to stay exactly as written. I meant each and every single word. Boomzilla
  14. And if room interaction, rather than the speaker itself, is the PRIMARY DETERMINANT of bass sound in the room (as I've understood you to say before?) then how could two speakers in the same locations NOT sound the same in the bass? If both speakers have the same -3dB down point, if both speakers both radiate spherically, if both speakers energize the room in identical ways, then your statement that one can't set both speakers in the same location and expect identical results is illogical. Please explain.
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