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Paul Hale

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  1. Pair of working original Klipsch x-overs from great sounding Forte 1. Wires in good shape. $80 cash only, local pick up preferred, Oakland, CA. (Can possibly meet in San Jose or Santa Rosa.)
  2. Pair of original mid-horns from great sounding Forte 1 loudspeakers. K-53-K drivers, K-701 horns, 11 ohms. very good condition. $200 cash only, local pick up. (I can possibly meet in San Jose or Santa Rosa, too.)
  3. Pair of nice 12" woofers from Heresy 1 speakers. K-22-R. Sounded very nice, smooth and warm. Very good condition (except for tarnished baskets). No holes or rips. I had soldered on Nordost wire to the terminals (Nordost 2-flat, high purity solid copper ribbon). There is white putty (easily removable) damping the terminal board (it was already well attached to the basket). $200 cash only, local pick up in Oakland, CA (I can possibly meet in San Jose or Santa Rosa).
  4. 12" K-23-K original Klipsch Forte 1 woofers. In very good condition, sounded good, no holes or rips. Paul in Oakland, CA $220 cash only, local pick up. (Can possibly meet in San Jose or Santa Rosa, too.)
  5. Jensen 12" co-axial ST 875 H 222 for sale. Good condition, working, no holes or tears in cone. $160 cash, free local pick-up Oakland, CA. (no shipping). My father original owner. Had it in a Jensen CT-100 Concerto cabinet he made originally, then made this more portable vented cab. Some wood with nice veneer from the CT-100 cab available. Treble control actually works, but looks terrible. Also on craigslist sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/d/oakland-jensen-12-vintage-co-axial/7226259428.html
  6. Pair of Heresy I's for sale on craigslist. Oakland, Calif. $500 cash only. Crites woofers, new mid diaphragms, smooth impedance x-overs, cabinet bracing, etc.
  7. I put new woofers from critesspeakers in my Heresy's (CW1228) and Fortes (CW1230), and this was a nice improvement in bass quantity (a bit), and especially bass quality in terms of timbral info, micro-dynamics, and spatial info. I recommend those, especially for replacing the old original Heresy I woofers. Looks like Moray is showing us the similarity of these woofers. There are many ways to hot-rod a Heresy.
  8. Depending on your room dimensions, you may want to be careful about raising the woofer and passive to a height that is an even division of your ceiling height or wall spacing. For instance, you might get some real standing wave peaks if you raise the woofers up to 2' and your ceiling is 8'. An inexpensive way to experiment is to use various concrete building blocks and/or pavers to raise the speakers to various heights. Actually sounds pretty good, too. I'm currently enjoying using some modded Heresys on 6" x 8" x 16" cinder blocks painted brown, with 1/8" cork mat (from the hardware store) at floor/block and block/speaker interfaces. I stuffed the sideways pointing holes in the blocks with foam (didn't like the idea of having 4 tubes of the same dimensions right under the speakers). Also, I tried 1/2" footers under the front edges of the speakers, which seemed like an improvement. My Fortes sound better in my room (8' ceiling) with only the 1/2" feet in the front (Herbies teflon footers). Or yeah, just try some wood sticks under the front. The 1" half rounds work quite well. If you like 'em you can glue the flat side onto the speaker riser and have the round side on the floor. If you raise the Fortes much, you may also loose some bass, unless you can move them back closer to the corner.
  9. Nordost 2-flat. Use a double run for the woofers, that is, two conductors for each + and - . Tie the wires down somewhere so they don't wiggle and vibrate inside the cab.
  10. You could use 10 ohm with 22uF, or 12 ohms with 20uF. 10W resistor is probably OK unless you'll be blasting some really loud volumes. I used 12W Mills in that position which is fine. If you're using parts-express, I'd recommend the 1% Dayton caps. You could also use a 10 ohm resistor with a 20uF cap in parallel with a 1uF cap. If you're lucky, a pair of 20uF 5% Dayton caps could be close enough to each other, but I wouldn't want to use a 19uF cap in one speaker, and a 21uF cap in the other. The 1st order crossover is pretty forgiving, though. Erseaudio.com has some decent cheap crossover parts, caps at 3%. Something to be said for using inexpensive parts in your 1st crossover rebuild.
  11. The leads from the 15 ohm/10W resistor are attached to the + and - screw-down terminals to the squawkwer, numbered 5, and 6 on the crossover board. This allows one to drop the horns down one numbered tap on the autoformer. It will give you a better balance with the woofer, and will let you hear if you might want to go further for a smooth impedance by spending the money on bigger (21uF) squawker capacitors. (The smooth impedance is probably good for most amps, but especially useful for low-powered tube amps with a high output impedance.) I think the other poster was talking about "risers" that raise the cabinet off of the floor a few inches and tilt them back a few degrees.
  12. You could use the push on connectors, this would allow some experimentation. But with all the vibrating going on because of the darn music, a solder connection is much sturdier and will sound better in the long run. Woofers with push on connectors will often sound better with the wires soldered to the woofer terminals. You must use clean surfaces and heat sinks to be quick without overheating the rest of the woofer wiring and coil. Practice on throwaway connectors to gain experience. (Another reason to eshew push-ons is that you can minimize connections throughout your gear for better sound.) If your speakers already have push-on connectors to the autoformer, then it's an easy experiment. You must use one of two choices below for a resistor to be added! The T2A autoformer has taps 0 to 5. The (-)squawker wire is originally on tap 2. Moved (resoldered) to tap 1 drops the level 3dB. The (-)tweeter wire, also, should be moved (reconnected) from tap 3 to tap 2. You must add the 11 ohm 10W resistor and change the midrange cap to 21uF as shown in John Albright's post "Heresy 1 crossover upgrade." (Do an advanced search.) A simpler way to try the 3dB drop is reconnecting the wires to taps as mentioned above, but keep the same caps and put a 15 ohm 10 W resistor across the midrange connections on the board, connected from positive to negative on the midrange. That is described Albright's post, and other posts. Keep looking. There's a nice photo somewhere. You get the 3dB drop in the horns, but you don't get a smooth impedance curve for the speaker. Funny nobody mentioned another big reason the Heresy 1 can sound thin and shrill, it's the K77 tweeter. Many folks find it nasty sounding. For some, it would be the first thing to replace. (Bass was more important to me, which was why I went the way I did. I have a new Selenium tweeter to mount on the top, one of these days...) There is not much space to put a new type of tweeter in the cabinet. Critesspeakers has a drop in replacement. Sounds much better than the original.
  13. Yes, thanks, djk! Coil I used is .18mH. (I'll try to correct the earlier post, too.)
  14. I should add, that an ALK crossover would be a fine improvement, too, dropping the horns down and smoothing-out the huge midrange impedance peak.
  15. TP143- Sorry, I'm coming into this thread a little late. I have worked on my Heresy 1's (and La Scalas and Fortes) and I do highly recommend changing the crossover, and the woofer. My Heresy's originally sounded as you discribed yours, thin and bright. They were designed to be bass-shy. If you haven't seen it yet, look for John Albright's post, Heresy 1 crossover upgrade. For me, putting the horns on different autotransformer taps (with the 11 ohm impedance swamping resistor and bigger midrange cap) that took them down 3dB made a huge improvement, and brought them closer to being a real stereo pair with more even frequency response. New caps in any old crossover is good improvement. I also put in the new woofers from critesspeakers, and I highly recommend this, too. Not only was the bass improved, but the timbre and detail of this range was improved, also, making for much better listening enjoyment. The Crites woofer is simply a much better woofer. I think my old woofers, which looked good, were soft and mushy. I used Albright's crossover design, but with a 3rd order Butterworth tweeter network, 2uF cap, to 1.8mH (correction: 0.18mH) shunt coil, to a 7uF cap to the tweeter. The Erse Super Q inductors are a good improvement over the old Klipsch woofer inductors. My old ones were terribly mis-matched, too. I also put new diaphrams in the mid drivers. This was a nice improvement, too, not as much an improvement with my speakers as the new woofer or dropping the horns down 3dB. I mostly enjoyed a little more body to the lower midrange, and a little more clarity and smoothness. I haven't put in the new tweeters, yet, one of these days.... A good subwoofer works very well with Heresy's (I would say they're essential, but I need bass down to 30 hz). I have a 10" Dayton Titanic III kit, and a Hsu VTF 2 MKIII. Either one helps out the Heresy's a lot, the Hsu VTF subs are quite good. Happy listening, Paul
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