roscoedawg

Received new driver. Which wire is positive, the black or white? Pretty sure the white is positive, just want to make sure. Thanks,

I picked up an SW-10 for a secondary system and ended up over-extending the active driver. (VERY loud pop and now subsequent popping at lower volumes) Anyway, I called Klipsch to order a new one. After ordering it I asked to be transferred to the Techs. The tech told me he thought there was a newer driver that the engineers came up with as a preferred option to the OEM part. He gave me the new P/N (121035) K1036-E. I transferred back to the order desk to see what P/N they ordered and it was the OEM part, not the new, superceded P/N. I was rather surprised, as was the guy at the order desk who did not have this new P/N in his book. All's well that ends well. I know the SW-10 is a lower end model, but I am not familiar with it. Any comments would be appreciated as to its abilities, strengths or weaknesses. Thanks,

Please see my other post as this was a duplicate entry. (I accidently pushed enter before I entered the description)

So I would assume from what you have said that I need to replace the speaker. Is it a matter of unscrewing it from the cabinet and disconnecting the wires or is it more involved than that. Please be patient with my ignorance in this subject matter. Just never needed to do it before...

I think I blew my sub. I had the gain too high and heard a loud POP! Since the initial incident, I heard it again at a lower level. I looked at the speaker and could not discern and damage. Would the damage be internal? What is the most logical cause and fix? I assume I can order the replacement parts easily enough. Thanks in advance for any advise. David

I have an LF-10 and a KSW-15 in opposite corners and they sound great. I don't understand the "cancelling each other out" statement. Could someone expand on that for me? I find both of mine compliment each other.

Sorry for the double post. New laptop is the size of a postage stamp! This is the second time I have blown this particular subwoofer. First time it was under warrantee. This time it's out of my pocket. While watching Finding Nemo, there was a loud pop. I'm assuming I blew it up again. My question is, is it easy to do the repair myself? I'm assuming I can get the parts through Klipsh and just swap out the old speaker. That is, assuming it is the speaker. Any advice appreciated.

This is a test

Got to be: Metalica - Black album or Rush - 2112

I have a C-7 driven by a Yamaha RX-V2095. At lower volumes the center channel will disappear. When I step up the volume a notch or two it kicks back in. This happens whether I increase the volume at the center channel level or the main volume control. Any advice appreciated. R-Dog

Having trouble with the center channel on my 2095 cutting out at lower volumes. When I crank it up a bit, it kicks back in. Any thoughts? Gracias-

When I run a test to set the channel levels for home audio, the sound that comes from one KLF-20 sounds distinctly different from the other one. It's like they are two different manufacturer's. I held a db meter next to each of the components at the same distance (6 inches)and they are constant side to side. Any suggestions? ------------------ Yamaha RX-V2090 Yamaha DDP-2 Panasonic DVD-A110 Sony CDP-CX260 JVC AV-36D501 KLF-20 Mains w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable C-7 Center w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable RS-3 Fronts w/AudioQuest CV-4 cable KSF-S5 Rears LF-10 Sub w/AudioQuest Copperhead KSF-15 Sub w/AudioQuest Copperhea AudioQuest Coral interconnects on all components

Like Mikekid, I too have an OLD Yamaha RX-V2090 and like it. I bought it when they first came out, and obviously technology has improved in the last few years in HT. I think when I upgrade, it will be eith Denon. They ARE sweet! ------------------ Yamaha RX-V2090 Yamaha DDP-2 Panasonic DVD-A110 Sony CDP-CX260 T.V. 36" JVC KLF-20 Mains C-7 Center RS-3 Fronts KSF-S5 Rears LF-10 Sub KSF-15 Sub

I have a KSW15 up front with a LF-10 in the rear. (KLF-20's, C-7, RS-3') I am only using the LFE single line into the LFE input, and in reading the other posts here, I think I will try the "Y" adapter. So far, I'm not overly impressed with the KSF-15 by itself for music. Agreed, for HT it kicks butt. The LF-10 is a superb balance for music. On the side, does anyone know why the link for manuals does not have anything for the LF-10 sub?