rugerdog

Can someone please tell me how I would test the RF-7 tweters for damage.I can't tell if blown,etc..As I have mentioned do seem awful high pitch,and I can't remember if always were soo hi freqish.Or I can't tell if the random,slight static like distotion is from I hearing SA/CD recording defects.It's hard to describe,it's not like a constant distortion,but like I can hear what seems to be in the recordings,I think. How do I test the tweeters? What are symptoms of damaged tweeters? Wow,I just removed HF biwire spkr cables from speakers,the woofers are extremly muffled.When I turn up,I get distortion,possibly blown woofers??? With only woofers,extremly muffled. With only tweeters,the tweeters are narrow pitch.Not a wide freq. I've owned my RF-7 since 2002,and only always used for movies.I have noticed this lately when using with new sa/cd player,for 2ch audio. Tweeters are K-67-KV from JUN 14/2001 Klipsch said the K-67-DV tweeters,from an RC-7 center speaker are the same. Woofers are K-1089-AV from JUN 15/2001 Can anyone please tell me what measurements,or specs should read,for the woofers and tweeters? Or is very apparent all blown???? Thanks

Can anyone,please,tell the proper foam placement in my RF-7 speakers? I recently did an internal mod, and noticed the foams did'nt seem to be in there in any logical or benificial manner,it may have fallen,shifted during shipping,handeling. I put it so: For the tweeter,I put the foam so it runs along top,then down backside,and then along small bottom portion/towards front.Leaves an opening to midrange.Sides are bare. For Midrange I did the same.Along top(covers opening at tweeter),down backside,and then towards front.Leaves opening into low woofer.Sides are bare. For the lowest area/woofer.I ran down front(just under woofer),along bottom,it just makes contact with back.It fits perfectly like that.Sides are bare. The way the foams were in there,for the tweet and mid,it was folded up so it was just behind the tweeter.And folded up so just behind mid woofer. Foam on the bottom kinda hrad to describe.It was just kinda stuffed in there. I've read that speaker designs with ports,should not have foam at backside,only on sides.May have been only describing subwoofer cabinet design,it was confusing. I'm wondering if:I would leave tweeter area as I dercibed/in picture I drew. And if I should change other mid and lower foams like: For the mid area,if I should have foam up side,across top,and down other side.Nothing on/against back.Would leave no opening into tweeter area. And in lowest area, if i should have foam going down side,along bottom and up other side.Nothing against front.Can't or would'nt be any on backside,because of ports.

Thanks. See I just can't get my mind around it. To bring down the tweeter,as I find too high,I may ,since it's been suggested,and after reading about L-pads,install an L-pad setup(permenant w/2 resistors) at the tweeters - and + wires,just after the HF crossover.But I can't figure or don't know if it makes a diiference about the tweeter being reverse phase,as 1 resistor,with it's spec/value is supposed to go on the + wire and the other resistor with it's value spans accross both - and + wires.

Looking at this dia of HF board for RF-7 tweet,or, is it true that the tweet is out of phase,reversed? Thinking about it,if I have my amp,a single bi-wire speaker cable set,which is Transparent Audio super biwire set,has a network.If this all matters,I believe the cable has certain amount of coductors at amp,then branches out to more conductors after network for bi wire.If the tweets out of phase,How does that effect the system with a single biwire? I mean,example:The + from woofers goes back to amp all the way,but the - from tweet goes goes into same + from woofers???? Actually the more I think about it,only the tweeter would be effected by it being out of phase??? I

I'm still at it.Trying to tame the tweeters of my RF-7 floorstanding speakers.I don't know if any differences,my pair are from approx 2005. I appreciate the fact I was told to parallel a 10w 10ohm resistor to the existing 10w 2ohm resistor,on the HF board of course.But not enough difference. It's been suggested I try L Pad,but what resistor spec for R1 and what spec for R2? Thanks

also,theres a photo somewhere ,#0016 that shows a total of 9 items on the board. Photo shows 5 yellow items,2 red w/white plastic surround coils,and then there would be the 2 paralleled mills underneath,for a total of 9 items on the board. How can that be? I'm told to tp purchase 6 items from parts express,per HF board,and use the original red w/white plastic coils??? For a total of 8 items per HF board. woops got on twice

Theres a photo somewhere, #0016 what shows a total of 9 items on the HF boeard!? Shows: 5 yellow items,2 red w/white plastic surround coils on top of the board and then there would be the 2 mills paralleled underneath.For a total of 9 items????? How can that be? Where I'm told to get 6 items from parts express and use the same 2 red coils,with the white plasic surrounding. ?????

Thanks Southern,but is only 1 photo supposed to be showing? I see what looks like other photos are to be shown,but their blank,with some sort of very small logo in the upper left corner. ????

OK, When I get all the parts: Mills 1ohm 12w non ind " " 2ohm " " " " 10ohm " " Kimber 5uF 200v cap " " 12uF " " Jantzen 18uF 400v cross cap I still parallel the Mills 10ohm and 2ohm? Then just replace the items,part for part? correct? And leave the white/roundcoils where they are,untouched? correct?

Hello, I've been trying to get my Klipsch RF-7 floorstanding speakers tweeters tamed,for my ears,and or electronics,there's too much tweeter.I was told to parallel a 10watt 10ohm resistor with the original K;lipsch 10watt 2ohm resistor.I did so,at first I thought there was a diff,but after some lengthy on/off listening times,I find the change not very noticable.While waiting for some answers and reading other Klipsch forum posts on the subject,I was told by Parts Express that paralleling the 10watt 10ohm and the original 10watt 2ohm resistor is going the wrong way,gives something like approx 1.5ohms,that I should do it in series. Used to be a metal master craftsman,I can do the soldering and or replcement of crossover parts,but it's difficult getting partial answers,or then told to go to a different forum thread to try and look for follow up question??? I have seen one photo of I think the DeanG modded RF-7 crossover,but I dont see the paralleled square/rectangular ceramic10watt 10ohm and 10w 2ohm resistors,I only see a,I think brown,approx 1 1/2" long,round Mills resistor. Maybe I'm expecting too much of a difference from only paralleling the resistors,I mean instead of doing the whole crossover parts replacement.But,if the resistors should be done in series,that could be why I don't hear enough difference. Anyways if the whole parts replacement makes a MUCH MORE difference I definitely want to do,but I ned straight forward explanation,please. Photos will help,if photos could be provided of all sides,top and bottom.Or please tell me why if I'm supposed to use the 2 ceramic 10w 10ohm/10w 2ohm resistors,I only see the 1 round Mills . phew! thanks rugerdog(Dave)

I have soo many questions piling up.I've had Klipsch RF-7 speakers for approx since 2005.I've owned many components,different SA/CD players/Pre amps/Amps/Recievers/Interconnects/Speaker cables/Power Conditioners/Room Acoustic treatments/Foams right in front of tweeters horn opening,trying to get the best or right sound from the RF-7 floorstanding speakers,always sound to bright or harsh high freq from just the tweeter,soo much so,as I turn up volume it's like a high ftreq pink like noise from tweeters. I can't remeber if it was this overbearing,or such high freq from the beginning.The amp I have benn using off and on for approx 4 years now is an Anthem P2 Statement 2ch amp,325watts per ch.I have owned some recievers in between with less wattage.Where the RF-7 are rated up to 250 watts,could the 325 watts damage croosover parts? I ask because recently I paralleled the 10watt 2ohm resistor on the HF board with a 10watt 10ohm resistor.Which is suggested on the RF-7 crossover forum.At first I thought it made a difference,but after running speakers for a couple days,I notice no difference,or such a slight difference I can't tell.I paralleled another 10watt 10ohm resistor,only with 1 speaker to see if I can notice a difference from the other speaker which only has the 1 paralleled 10watt 10ohm resistor with the original 10watt 2ohm resistor,I notice no difference between the 2 speakers. ???????

Or,maybe another part of my, or some others RF-7 speakers having an off treble/high treble sound is,as I say one end of my HF board has a 10w 2ohm J resistor and the end has a 10w 1RJ resistor.What is the difference between these two resistors,if there supposed to both be 10w 2ohm,why are mine different.Maybe someone at Klipsch made a mistake??? With certain serial number range/runs??? Or maybe ran out of enough 10w 2ohm rsistors for awhile during assembly. Should I change out that 10w 1RJ resistor,to a 10w 2ohm? So both end are the same?

Another item I don't understand,I researched other photos of other persons RF-7 crossovers,their HF resistor's the one's on each end of the HF board,I see,well I can see one's,and there's the same resistor on each end,the original ones that is.His photo (Name:Southern,May,23,2010 posting)shows both end resistors being the 10w 2ohm J,as I say the ones on my HF board are different on each end.As I state in my first post,at top of this page. Can someone,please, tell me if there supposed to be the same? Oh,forget it,I notice it's a photo from an RC-7.Center speaker I should probably give up

Strange, After having sound run thru the speakers for approx 15 hours,they seem really bright again.It's like the tweeter db is soo much higher than the rest??? I had'nt mentioned it yet,but it's something that seems to happen all the time.The HF seems soo much harsher at different times.I mean even with the same sa/cd,music tracks.???Soo much so,that it's like floor noise sound,or what is it called,pink test noise?, out of only the tweeters,both speakers.Actually the right speaker may be slightly more. What the heck can it be??? Faulty crossover parts,or need a different,larger db cutting resistor? What would a different,one piece resistor be to use?I see a 20w 8ohmresistor.In other words I'd like to remove the original resistor,and put in it's place 1 resistor.Or should I get 2 of the same 10w 10ohm resistors,and still parallel?

Excited.My Mobile Fidelity sacd:Foreigner (Foreigner) came today.I like most of those Mobile Fidelity Sound Lab,Original Master Recording sa/cd's. Perfect timing to have done the resistor addition. Pioneer Elite SC-09TX,Anthem Statement P2,Esoteric X-03SE,Klipsch RF-7,Audio Quest Cheetah,Transparent Audio Premium MusicWave Super bi-wire,Transparent Audio Premium Super power cords,Seperate mains/circuit breakers,seperate ground rod. All my items are original,except the extra 2ohm resistor in Klipsch RF-7 speakers.