justinsweber

Ive got nothing but love for the K401... used in my 2nd DIY system and 1st La Scalas. This year has shown me a few things... Cheap drivers don't always mean bad sound. Dave turned me onto a Pyle 2" driver that was super inexpensive... ~$120 from PE... only down side was the weight. The K401 is great as a stock unit or baseline. Modern crossovers, horns and drivers allow for ultra high end sound that was not possible even 10 years ago. Im a fan of Dave Eliptrac 400s, but had PH800s and M2380s before that. The 2380 was great as a 2 way, but couldn't go high. The eliptrac does almost everything right. Money gets tight for us all. Id buy the kits from Dave and get to sanding... you'll own the best horns you can but and a true sense of ownership.

It will have a old ALK universal, Eliptrac and Faital Pro HF200, Fastlane's newest tweeter and the Budget oriented Dayton DC380. If the C380 doesn't work well, Ill swap back to Kappa 15C woofers. Its really just a garage/ test box. Cheaper than crack as they say.

The general wisdom is that it should be at ear hight... so 32-36" or there a bouts. That said... the dispersion of the tweeter should be more than sufficient to blend in... ideal no, but more than workable and better than stock. These were motor boards I saved should even I find a PH800 horn... well the Eliptrac fits... Dave proved that last year... Now Im out to show that his new horn fits as well.

These motor boards have come out of retirement. I built these 5 years ago with my 1st project and they have say lonely waiting for someone to bring to life... Daves tweeter seems as good a reason as and. Prob will try the Dayton DC380... Seems I forgot, I cut the opening for the woofer too small. Some things. Justin

Ive seen amazing stuff built by many on here.. glad I have something to hang my hat on too :-)

Here is a bit of what I've been working toward... Been a few years and 30+ amps in the making :-). Its the same amps Ive built numerious times but have moved some of the build process to more efficient repeatable means. Believe it or not, the hardest part of building these amps is the grounding scheme, somewhat complex and used to provide the quite I demaned for use of my La Scala's. I swear, you could hear a bad preamp tube through the tweeter :-).

I can seem to upload pics? Any suggestions? Thanx everyone.

Thanx... Im hoping for the site to go live shortly... Any technical questions happy to answer offline including a pic or 2 of it dressed. In my exp. selling a finished product, the underside shots only serve to provide debating points. I'll say this.. .its 3.5" deep to accommodate its choke... the power supply make use of the depth too :-). Though I don't plan to scream that I use trancendar iron, many good choices, transcnedar is one of the best around. 20-20kz, solid bass, sweet midrange while not being inaccurate.

I guess I miss spoke. I was punch drunk with lack of sleep. The read is removable and makes use of 10-12 1/4-20 bolts with t-nuts into the flashing. The whole cab was crazy over built... I believe he has made multiple revisions with the goal of building it smarter and stronger. The crossover is an example... it is the circle from cutting the front baffle for the woofer. It bolts to the rear baffle and makes the rear even stronger. If I keep for me.. I may try Dave’s drift horn. I dressed the kit up, but... but design was not my handy work. I think Dave cut these on his CNC. I’ve moved building my amps to CNC cut panels from front panel express to gain the benefits of CNC milling. The CNC allows for repeatability and closer tolerances. God bless the CNC :-). The 15 might be able to be shoe horned in ... that would be a hat trick and a half! I’m bringing my own products and website up soon... Ill show you guys some pics in a separate post later of what I’ve been working on... Should be cool and maybe not lose money doing it.

I wish I could take credit... the kit did the work... Dave had this thing with T-nuts everywhere.... I believe new versions are daydo'd into place... adding to the rigidity. I do wish I tried Daytons PA 12" and or tried the 15" general use Dayton. Dave's crossover design mod makes it a true 1st order... run any darn thing you want :-).

I had a set of grills for them last night. I put them on.. only to discover that the bottom grill fabric and top fabric are ever so slightly different shadles. I dotn think Ill fix unles sI go klipsch cloth... Do you guys think Cane woudl look good or stick with black?

I have 3 sets of top hats. 1 Dave made everything... APT12/ES5800 Eliptrac 400/FaitalHF200 Contrac/D220ti with 2way/3way switch... love it... its the reference that others are measured against. 1 3 way I made... DIY Universal/tweeter attenuator eliptrac 400/ Pyle PDB952 Contact/D220ti... much much less expensive to build and goes toe to toe with the bigger brother. 1 2way made with APT12 Eliptrac 400/DE85. I had a 2 way just like the one I made but in a original cab and loved it... I sold it and wanted a replacement. The 3 ways were for demoing and showing what cab done. The 2ways are for 98% of my listening... I just need to get my wife to let me put them down stairs in the living room. Not to stiff up a hornets nest, but the Universal/tweeter attenuator (cornscalawal) is simply incredible. If it was available when I did my 1st pair I would have gone that route... super musical, but maybe less modern sounding. The APT12/ES5800 turns the cornscala into a super studio monitor... very true to source. The 2ways may not be 100% true to source, but they have coherence and relaxed presentation that makes listening for hours super easy.

Crazzy 10gage 3 conductor cables made for a customer. Similar to Cardis but $800 cheaper :-)

APT12

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