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justinsweber

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Everything posted by justinsweber

  1. Ive used Pi3s with Roppiee for a roon bridge. You can add a DAC hat if you dont have a dac already. With Roopie XL you can also use as Airplay end point. Trying the Pi4 ive had compatibility issues with my DAC. I might just add a HAT to fix and bypass the DAC.
  2. The magic of the HK designs are that the transformers are relatively common. HK, complicated circuits... basic iron... UL for Cit II and Non UL for Cit 5. Macintosh... simple circuits, complex transformers. Its very difficult to duplicate Mac Iron... HK outputs can me made for any number of great suppliers.
  3. The last step it to make our own customer transformer covers. Ill try to laser etch the bias instructions... I figure Ill never have to search out the instructions that way.
  4. So Ive been working on a project for a hair over a year... Its kinda my moonshot. Its a Cit V Mono. It was an effort to make the Cit monos repeatable. My Cit IIs are incredible but the metal work is far too time consuming... to make it work the metal work had to be CNCd. The hardest part of the project was the metal work. We worked on paper first, then an Al chassis... which we have spare and then linked up with a sheet metal fab shop. 12Gage SS is a total pain to work with but the end results are incredible. 12gage, with 2 12gage mid braces, all seems are welded and ground flush... surfaces are jitterbugged. All labels are laser etched. The Chassis with its bottom plate and 2 mid braces was ~ 30lbs before any parts were installed. Rather than rehabbing a Cit V, I wanted to build anew... new connectors, new turret boards and enough room to make serving for the next 50 years a breeze. We like went a bit over spec on the transformers... 200% or so on the power... 8A on the filaments... think I can lightup anything and tube Rect. Our measured performance was 4hz to 110khz -3db @ 1watt and 10hz to 100khz -3db @ 10watts. 32watts RMS... Not the power monster my Cit II is with KT120s but digs sooo deep with a flat fr. Here are some of the pics...
  5. If I may provide some thoughts. The 510 is awesome you may need to remove all dampening, 2ndly. Bob has sold a cs500 that had HF ep for 2way setups. I had a m2380 and hf200 with his crossover. May just need to ask about it. with that said, the 510 makes much much much more sense in 3 way. If you had a K77 or any horn loaded/compression driver tweeter and a ALK cornscalawal. You get the Large mid range sound stage and be able to adjust the presence of the tweeter. You’ll be able to adjust the crossover to your preferences. You can get a good copression driver for $25-$50 each and there are a wide range of horns. Happy to show you ones that you can make fit. So... If want 2way, ask bob for crossover with eq. if want 3 way. Get tweeter and cornscalawal crossover. Lastly, feel free to call me and talk it over further. 949-636-9076 PST
  6. If you’re still in the mood for upgrades. A doghouse brace with further the articulation, all around wonderful upgrade. You can get the braces which need to be hand gotten from Greg at Volti or Dave Harris. the other upgrade would be a fastrac kassala horn from ALK/Dave Harris. Will fit existing opening if I recall? Increase size of sound stage. Less congested mid range. lovely room and speakers.
  7. I adore the 2m bronze. you also might really enjoy the dl110
  8. TD124 SME 308 is a dream combo. Congrats on the table. Have you chosen arm yet ?
  9. I should have mine ready for finishing next week. Looks amazing.
  10. Dave H did something super cool. He took a lth142 and was able to have a machine shop bore out the throat to take a 2”. I think it was modifying the mounting ring. I think he then paired a DE85 and was very very pleased with the results. ALK designed the CSW450 for me. It’s like a AP12 450 and the cornscalawal up top. I’ll shot a pic of it this afternoon. The HF140 was the best 1.4” I could think of. 2” are so much easier to find drivers for. The STH100 is super impressive. I’ve had good luck with the de10. I had wanted the parts express de250 clone with polymide but they have DC’d it and only have the titanium. The DE10 crossed at 5600 on up should work nicely.
  11. Bob. I bet when you release it... it will be come your most popular choice. HF140/DE10 has served me well before.
  12. Perhaps a simplification but hoping for same level of performance. The Avenger has been my dream table for sure. But simple sometimes wins the day.
  13. Giving some thought to upgrading to the HW40. Would be selling off my Avenger Avenger plus Rim Drive ADS speed controller 12" Ref 3D Arm 10.5" Signature Arm Can include carts Asking $9500. I tossed the orig box but have ordered a new one. 1 year old.
  14. I’m currently working on a 3way. But I did a fat DIY heresy with the lth142 horn/hf140 With the 12LFA. It’s remarkable. mid I were doing the heresy a 2nd time. I’d use the sth100/de250 any day of the week. PE DE25O clone is a fantastic drive for 1/3 the cost.
  15. Yes but not playing music. Just with a volt meter. Next step is to mount crossover in cab. Nut/bolt. Then solder the black leads Into place. The. Finish and add feet.
  16. We have progress. Question for the crowd... Would you Dynamat the Mid horn. If you dynamat, I assume you get more coherence but maybe lose some efficiency?
  17. Here are my build pics. Re amp board to crossovers. I desoldered the connectors off the crossover and soldered 2 of the black wires +/_ directly to the crossover PCB inlace of the red/black. Ive read you can add a 2nd battery, PE wasn't clear on how this is done and Ive read that you can kill the board hooking it up incorrectly.
  18. Buy. It’s a color not how it sounds 😉
  19. If I may suggest... The Elekit TU8500. Its a purist design, if you buy on ebay, the distributor of ELEkit can build the kit for you. Tube line stage... super quite, SS/Opp amp based phono... works flawlessly. BTW its inexpensive.
  20. I’m way from it till Monday night. I’ll shot a pic. It would be fun to post on parr’s express message board and see about battery expansion.
  21. The amp/controller board was a total pain. If they combined all the documentation in one place it would be amazing. I like a dumass built the cab before installing the crossover. As a result. I’ll drill hole for the crossover and use nut/bolt combo. Things I’d like to improve.... documentation. If it was better it would become their best seller. 2, it should be easier to add a 2nd batter back. There is some confusion on the site about how to make it happen... extending usable time with more batteries... esp as there appears to have room would be great. Lastly. There is a 50watt version of the amp. Might be fun to swap in. If someone takes their time (1hr to read everything and line it up) it’s pretty straightforward. Parts express could help with better/more videos of this. Your pics are super helpful. I just built the boards out and your pics helped me realize I forgot to install crossovers first.
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