justinsweber
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Posts posted by justinsweber
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I’m still mulling if I should laminate a 1/2 ply to the inside. I’d have to route out with a collar and then expand the holes to make large enough to clear the first layer of Dave’s horns. I’ve never had a baffle thicker than 3/4”.
Might be a good use of energy?
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Sanding, filling, primer... mix and repeat.
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Hope everyone is safe. Im working 2-3 shifts a week in the ER doing mental health assessments and still doing a full load at the community clinic I work full time.
Both positions are deemed essential due to need for management of emergent mental health needs.
Each day Im getting my tempt checked and asked about symptoms before being let in the door.
I have to say its become more stressful over the past 3 weeks and only seems to be compounding.
With all these stressors cropping up, my mind turns to the long process of building a new set of speakers as an escape.
About 4 months I reached out to Dave Harris and asked for baffles and horns. Dave was busy and put me in the Que.
Then about a month ago, Dave was in the Irvine area and came and heard my lasted iteration with his baffles... Faital Horns/Faital & B&C driver combo for compression drivers.
Its a truly great cornscala, built to the hilt... no screws more braces than you can shale a stick at.. That said, it doesnt have Dave's mid horn and I miss that.
So after some repeated requests, Dave cut me some new baffles and horns. Like each before, there a but different; trying a new idea or two.
The ports are 4" PCV and the baffles are MDF. Ive never built a speaker with the baffle being MDF. The horns and baffles key in so tight. Ill have to clearance them just a bit to get them in.
The lovely thing with the MDF baffle to MDF horn is just how tight the tolerances are. There will be less fill time.
Dave suggested I use a water based Poly to seal them a other products can wick the MDF. Last night I sealed them inside and out. The sealing the inside is likely an error as it has made them harder,but nothing some cut knuckles and sandpaper wont fix.
The plan is highend Ply, lots of braces and everything bolted in place.
Once the ports are glued in, Ill take a 1/2" round over to flare the port.
Drivers and corssovers havnt been fully fleshed out.
Few tid bits... The horns have to be sanded smooth first... then more polly and finishing. The last layer has to be finished separately. Ive pained them together and the paint cracked when they are pulled apart.
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I work part time in a ER. We have had 2-10 probable admits for Covid rule outs per day. These people look like they have pneumonia.
I hope we dont have the spike that Italy is seeing now... I guess 2 weeks will tell.
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Its a very very solid kit.
Dave Harris and I have owned 4-5 of these over the years.
Its a class AB amp with a linear power supply. Has an opp amp on the front end to get the drive it needs.Its very hard to fault this amp, esp at its price point.
One to the things I liked most was the auto-on/off makes for easy installs for the family.
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Sunvalley pre is a marantz 7 circuit. Can get made brand new for under $1200
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The Elect pre is amazing. It includes a phono stage and responds well to rolling. Ive built 2 of them previously and would happily own again.
The phono is Opp amp based but is great sounding for MM. You can roll in your own App amps for subtle changes.
Re, my ad for the Sunvalley Thats a great pre as well. You can special request one from https://www.vkmusic.ca.
Sunvalley is a division of Toyota Corp... its about as old school Japanese as you can get.Line stage tube pre with tube power supply. The PS is on a PCB, the rest is point to point. Its uses the orig Marantz circuit.
All good choices.
2 other choices are the ground grid which are amazing and idiot prof to build.
Lastly the Akido circuits/PCBs are reference level choices.
All ideas Ive suggestedI used/built and consider them incredibly good pre amps.,
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Kristo
Seems the wisest thing to do be to use a switcher or get a 2nd amp.
I think you will lose sound quality and push your amp a great deal harder configuring it to run both sets of speakers at the same time.
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You might consider opening up the back and show us what drivers youre using.
Crites crossover is great but is intended for stockish drivers, if we see the drivers we can check their efficiency.
An adjustable crossover may help you dial in your room even further.
Lovely speakers!
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SunValley SV-Pre1616D Tube Preamp Line Stage.
Condition is New; built but never used. Was enchanted by the idea the Marantz 7 circuit done right.
Kit was $800 without upgrades.
Fantastic kit, Swapped the stock pot for an Alps Blue Velvet, all wiring was done with Silver plated copper with teflon.
Solder is Cardis silver.
Based on Marantz 7 circuit.
Can be used with 3 AXU7s or any combination of 12AX7 or AU7 tubes. Tube rectifier, GZ34/5AR4.
Comes with full tube set, Pre tubes are NOS, rectifier is new.
Its a really fantastic pre. I rub all XLR and as such it hangs out in my cabinet unused.
https://wallofsound.ca/misc/diy/coming-soon-sun-valley-sv-pre1616d-tube-preamp-kit/
Shipped with FedEx Ground or FedEx Home Delivery.
Justin 949-636-9076
selling $600 +shipping.
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The kappalite 3015lf4 is a 12” woofer. If doing a cornscala you need 15”. So, Buy a 15” from bob crites. He has 2 very good choices or get a eminence Kappa 15C from parts express.
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Are you discussing a cornscala or super heresy. The 15c is a suggestion for a cornscala. I believe the original post is about building a cornscala. He was showing his previous efforts with the super Heresy.
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The universals are 6db filters and don’t have same issue. I’d want a specific woofer then the cornscalawal but I’d want higher older filters... need to be kliapxh compatible with k33 or 15C
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If I can make 2 suggestions.
ALK ES and AP12 networks expect to see a predicted inductance of the voice coil. Meaning that it’s set for a K33/K43 woofer. The Kappa 15C has been measured by Al and is also compatible. If you use something different the crossover could not be expected to perform as predicted. Maybe it wouldn’t matter. Al and only a handful of other people can do the level of calculations needed. In short, use a k33 or kappa 15C or ask Al.
Secondly, the DE85 is lovely, is perfect especially for this application. That said. The DE750 was a monster. Bass was much improved. It’s the same diaphragm but 2x the magnet.
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5 hours ago, DizRotus said:
They look good Justin. Would you consider editing your subject line? At first I thought this was a relationship thread about achieving “her” nirvana.
Also, it took me a bit to realize you weren’t referring to speakers built by POTUS’s former attorney.
How is the treble as you move about? Are they at all beamy? It’s been my experience that large surface area sources (can you say Magnepan?) tend to beam the highs.
In any case, your workmanship is again excellent and, if you say they compare favorably to your Cornscalas, I’m impressed.
They really sound fantastic. Less bass then the cornscala imaging and tonal balance is incredible. Think Dynaco A25/Devore O93. At this point Id say the cornscalaa and the AN15 are my 2best speakers. Big but not huge and incredibly impressive.
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5 hours ago, DizRotus said:
They look good Justin. Would you consider editing your subject line? At first I thought this was a relationship thread about achieving “her” nirvana.
Also, it took me a bit to realize you weren’t referring to speakers built by POTUS’s former attorney.
How is the treble as you move about? Are they at all beamy? It’s been my experience that large surface area sources (can you say Magnepan?) tend to beam the highs.
In any case, your workmanship is again excellent and, if you say they compare favorably to your Cornscalas, I’m impressed.
All fixed. First time using phone to post.
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Yes it was worth it. Special thanks to Dave Harris for the design and baffles.
My cornscala is a truer to source output but these sound like music. I would easily place them on par with my cornscalas.
Though I built both and didn’t skimp at all. I would say the cornscala is still more stoutly made. If You ever get a chance to hear the 15 take it upon yourself. I’ve had the 8 inch and heard the 10, but neither compare to the scale and detail and ease the 15 provides.
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Thats sooooo stupid... The LED should turn on when charging. It has charged... but I didnt know I could turn off and still charge... thanks for the information, super helpful.
I took your advise and just reversed them.
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I have my done... Sounds good. Only curious aspect is that you have to have it "On" for it to charge.
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I’m not the same Justin.
That said, been building SET amps and modifying Klipisch speakers for 20 years. Given that I’m 40, means I’ve been at it for a tinny but of time ;-). On all the forums I’ve always used my full name or company name. I don’t like aviators which sometimes hide identity.
If you guys want some more shots of the Cit V let me know. It’s interesting. I’m getting 32watts rms with the 7581a and tube rectification but it’s very very wide bandwidth. I think the bandwidth makes amp sound much more powerful.
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Ive used Pi3s with Roppiee for a roon bridge. You can add a DAC hat if you dont have a dac already.
With Roopie XL you can also use as Airplay end point.
Trying the Pi4 ive had compatibility issues with my DAC. I might just add a HAT to fix and bypass the DAC.
Sold - Balanced power, Power conditioner
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Closely related to the Transcendent Sound Balanced power conditioner.
1000KVA ~ 8amp conditioner.
Includes a balanced transformer which splits the power onto the Neutral and Hot 60V each.
This approach is significant reduces AC born noise, creates a huge common mode filter.
Additionally added an EMI/RFI filter.
Really lovely unit but my big amps needed a larger conditioners.
6 Hubbel outlets
Front is walnut with Rosewood veneer.
Justin 949-636-9076