justinsweber
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Posts posted by justinsweber
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some progress pics... I friend I made in the last year is a great wood worker and had the tools I didn't to cut new cabs for me. He made quick work of some splits... Used biscuits and pocket screws... super beefy... much like my beloved splits Dave made.
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Hey Everyone… its project time. I have a set of motor boards I’ve been sitting on for 3 years for a cornscala. The ports are cut, the woofer is cut and the horn is cut for Dave’s Eliptrac… I think the pal will be to build a 2 way cornscala. The one hitch to my plan is that the motor board was cut at 25.5” and really can’t be changed without cutting into the port area, and I’m too lazy to do it.
The original cornscala cabs began life as 24” cubed (24”x24”x24”) = 13,824 cu in or ~ 8cu ft. (the math as I remember it is 24” – ¾” on each side, 24” – 1.5” = 22.5” cubed = 11,390 cu in or 6.5 cu ft.
25.5” wide (my motor board) + 1.5”=27” wide externally.
Here were some calculations/ options I ran through before coming to my cab size and I think the cut sheet for the panels.
27” wide x 24” tall x 24” deep = 15,552 = 9 cu/ft ext / 25.5x22.5x22.5= 12,909cu in. = 7.4 cu ft internally… too big… aiming for 6.2cu ft to 6.6 cu ft.
So, 27”x22”x24” = 14256ci in or ~8.2 cu ft ext…. too big, 27”x22”x23” = 13662cu in or ~7.9cu ft. externally.
Close… 27”x23”x23”=14283 cu in or ~8.2cu ft.
27”x22.5”x22.5”=13668 cu in or ~7.9cu ft. which becomes 25.5”x21”x21”= 11245cu in or ~ 6.5cu ft.
So External dimensions are 27”x22.5”x22.5”
Motor board/ back panel will be 25.5”x21”
Sides will be 22.5”x21”
Bottom and top panels will be 27”x 22.5”
So, does this all makes sense… Id love someone to help me double check before I get to cutting.
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hope you guys approve :-)
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Dave as always... 1st rate work.
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I think one downside to the drift was the use of the expensive woofer from eminence. Dave may have found less expensive alternatives?The simple crossover had the heritage sound... some mid bass congestion, but a pleasing sweet sound. ALKs crossover brought a significant degree of clarity and HF extension. I think there was less overlap. I have generally been moving to precise sound speakers. I do love the price point of the simple crossover allowing one to grow into the speaker as cash allows.
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Dave the graphs look great.
Any other thoughts to smooth things out a bit more?
Does 90DB seem right... Ive runt hem with 3/4watt happily. They seems of similar efficiency to my CS1s from long ago, which were reported to be 99db efficient.
Thank you for the follow-up. Are you building a pair for yourself?
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SO I was playing Dave's speakers for some friends... Showing off his work and mine at the same time. (I had just built a 1626 SE amp, 3/4watt). Its amazing how efficient they must be. We we playing loud enough that my wife said something. Less bass grip than my SS 50 watt Class A amp, but so magical. 3/4watt was enough for my corn walls unless I was being stupid or cracking it up when no one was home... and its more than enough for these. Everyone was dually impressed! Esp as the yields were right next door. The yields really need 5 watts and up and can take every ounce of my MC275 I can give. The Monacos are much much more SE tube friendly. I love both... though the rule is one in and one out :-)
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I too need 2 sets.
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and another
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Ive heard the Monaco's next to Dave's 2 way Cornscala and now next to his Yields. Im a Cornscala fan, but 1 of my speakers will be sold to get the Monaco. I played really well with my 8watt SE workhorse, but when I put my MC275 on it and gave them 90watts... I was reminded I need more floor joists. The Yield is the point source absolute sound speaker (Think Quad 57 with JL Subs). The Monaco sounded great, but man I fuc*ing cracked on it and it never compressed.
All kind words aside. I have 4 of Dave's speakers in 3 listening rooms. If there is interest, I will demo for any who wish to hear. Im in Aliso Viejo. (Very close to Irvine).
I didnt think Id be buying this year... I want a 2nd MC275 to go mono block, but this might be the purchase of 2013.
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I keep telling Dave he should offer these as a kit for dumbasses like myself.
Flat pac with crossovers build :-).
The bass is very comparable to the CS-1 though I find the HF much less fatiguing. The ability to adjust the HF is very helpful when getting good room placement.
Id place these as drop in replacements/ slightly better than the CS-1 ive built or modified. They do appear less efficient than the CS-1s though my 5 watt 300bs were loafing at normal listening levels.
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I soooooo want to hear!
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Daves handiwork @ crossovers
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I wanted some speakers for my Garage system... Something that would sound great... Ive built more than a few CS1's but really wanted to try an Econowave. Dave @ fastlane audio was kind enough to make it reality. I had no desire to build my own crossover... ALK and Bob do that for us all :-). The Econowave is really well know. Its a 1.6CU cab, with a cheap HF horn... Dayton $12 horn and a 12" woofer with a low VAS value and a high Q value.
The Cabs are not Dave's usual amazing work or the handy work of south LA cabinet makers, but from Parts express... They leave much to be desired.... Never ever buy them unless they are intended for PA use.
As for comparisons: I would place them well below the CS1s, but they are much less expensive. The CS1 use a great woofer from Bob or even an eminence woofer... The DC300 is only $40... does well for its price.
I still would put my CS1s 1st in the sub Cornwall size, followed by the Econowave and then the Audionervana as a very very very close 3rd. The AN 8" in the 19" cab is just so charming... its the smallest and doesn't leave much behind. I have let 2 budget minded friends listen to the AN8 and the econowave... I now have 1 building the AN and 1 collecting parts for the Econowave.
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Id love to know your budget for amps.
You can have a true SE tube amp built for you for less than $500. For 600 you can build a Dyanco Clone ST35 (17watts) that is a realy audio gem
See Dynakitparts.com. if you want origonal or search Triode electronics if you want to build 1 based on DIYtubes ST35. Same iron, 2 different approaches.
I have ordered alot from both vendors. Dynakit parts is amazing in his level of documentation. If you can soder get his kit...
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The Cornscalawal :-).
I saw the 23" horn its ginormious...
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The new router is in... how does she perform?
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1 more
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The last upgrade to ring out every ounce from these speakers.
These are my favorites... I have the same speaker in a 3 way with ALk crossovers, Dave Harries horns and similar drivers... Subs included.... (That rig sounds better) but this one is so simple :-).
Dave is a master craftsman... He shoe horned his horn into an orig Cornwall with the B&C DE85TN :-).
Truth be told, these will be the last the leave.
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In red :-)
I tried a contour network, I they seemed more alive without... Maybe not as refined, but feeling more present. Forgot to snap pics with the drivers in place. The minimonitors are really nice from 60hz on up but its obvious that the cabs are the limiting factor. The same AN8 in dave's cab shows that there are limits to the drivers too. The cab allows the drivers to stretch down much much lower. As I already have 3 large speakers, Im keeping my mini monitors, but my budy will be taking the Full size cabs from me in time. He was impressed by the size of the sound stage and just how airy they sounded.
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Not fully stained, but work in progress
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1626 Darling amp... The baby 300b
I have an over built 300b that outputs 5 watts and will go cleanly to 20hz and full power and this lil bad boy still holds its own will an amp costing 3x as much.
So a single AN-8 and .6watts and loving it :-)
Planing a split cornscala.
in Technical/Restorations
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