lucky5115

Had two pairs of KC's at one time; They're really nice!

ugghh. throw in some mdf board too. LoL. btw, Carver is really decent gear at reasonable pricing still. I don't think it's reached it' potential yet and probably some good deals out there.

JJ, I've never known that about KG woofers. My experience is from a diagnostic point of view. Usually on overdrive you'll get distortion then a pop. Here's a pic of my 1978 Yamaha 1020CR receiver 75WPC. almost done with total restore. Sounds good with the Heritage line. I like discreet components and that tuning capacitor is kinda cool.

What Jim said. I used KNUZ12 stranded copper oxy free 6 years ago and noticed enuff greenish/white powered corrosion at the connects that this year I replaced it all. More than likely it would have lasted much longer but with very fine strands being eaten from the middle on outward... Over time that just happens. It's good copper cable, nice sheath and pliable. What prompted the replacement? A friend of mine called me up saying her car wouldn't start; just outta the blue, working fine up until that. click click...long story short, I noticed corrosion on the battery negative connector and cable. Pulled it off, cleaned then put back on.. Same problem.<scratch>? Replaced the cable and it started right up. Just for grins, I sliced open the sheath and noticed that the corrosion wasn't just on the endcaps, but went all the way from end to end. Oh, I would think that if your cable run is less then 50', 14awg would be fine too. I'm using Audioquest Type 2 for my speaker cable now. 20' per channel. Little pricey, but bought on sale. Why not.. buy once, use many. This is a infolink: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1124917-REG/audioquest_type2c50_50_type_2_star_quad.html?ap=y&c3api=1876%2C{creative}%2C{keyword}&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvtHWgYza2QIVw7fACh3RxwbpEAQYASABEgKFhvD_BwE

When your input source receiver/pre/amp is the problem. you'll get the krispies, snap-crackle-pops out of the speaker(s) This is usually because of a bad/leaky transistor. In this case, as you push the gain, you have a leaky transistor gate. This is not to say that you may have a bad inline capacitor(s) affecting a already sensitive transistor. It's early AM and if I'm reading your post correctly, it's only happening when you hook up to the Sansui 7070. If that's the case then: 1) Adjust the bias on the driver circuit board for L/R channels, + / - 10mv. test 2) replace caps on DCB with good Nichicons. I prefer ELNA's. - test 3) replace transistors on DCB 4) file 13 Do not test a sick receiver/pre/amp on a good set of speakers. I was working on a Carver 895 with the krispies and it took out a K33E. Turned out to be 4 trans on main board Fortunately, this unit has 1 driver circuit board for both channels as opposed to 2. hope this helps~ ron Sansui-7070-Service-Manual.pdf

Wire from parts connextion should arrive today. 16awg for T & M, 14awg for W. Copper strand AG plated for external cornwall xovers. Very nice receiver btw. here

Peak LCR45 meter, for about $100 shipped. or DROK 1.8" LCD Multifunction Transistor Tester, Mega328 NPN/PNP Automatic Identified Diode Resistor Inductor Capacitor MOS SCR ESR Meter Checker Detector, 12864 TFT Color LCD Digital Display avail at Amazon. $35, free shipping.

possibly a Eminence Legend Series.. dunno call'em 502.845.5622

Indeed. 16 x 9. It'll fit inside NP. Just have to figure how I want to external mount. Give me more cabinet air volume inside w/o xover and minimal vibration. ..will post pics as I go.

Sounds really good, dialed in. Thinking about mounting externally due to size. Next up, build a tube amp.

I'm using them now. They tested right on spec outta the box. low dcr and saturation. As someone mentioned, they are a pretty big component, which may be an issue on existing board, but probably not on new build.

check the time date on server. check the expiration/validity on new cert. Did u reboot it after installing the cert?

looks like its built using Sandvox 2.1. The conf file will need to be modified.

Here's a command you can run on your PC. It sometimes helps if the problem is on your side of the fence; safe and harmless. Bring up DOS prompt via.right click Start > Run > type in CMD then C:\IPCONFIG /FLUSHDNS

Dean, a good idea and I'm gonna look into that. BTW, I left all the cap leads original length and worked around it in case changes were needed or if I part it out in the future. I bent the gold plated spade connector mounts into L shape so the leads just push right in, easy solder install and removal, no more hassle of having to wind leads on a mount peg. Ran into a odd issue during testing..the fix... clean the taps on the autoformer. All the taps on the AF were covered with that enamelish coating used on the windings. Whether the AF was sprayed or dipped, dunno, it was hard to detect as it's clearish. To the plain eye the taps looked fine however..The symptom was a flat, kinda like speaking through a towel sound. Do quality parts make a difference(especially caps)?.. oh hell yes! And another..was it worth using a Erse superQ and better quality cap on the woof filter? oh hell yes! The bass will give you a nice tight punch to the chest. Thought I'd share info. more to follow.. Isn't this what part of the forum is about? To share and help each other out\\ Done rambling.. time for chow.

Dean, Perfect! Thanks~

HiYaAll, This subject has been discussed upteem times before, thought I'd get the latest info. I want to brace the inside of my corns and add damping material. Currently it's just the stock paper with strings. Would like to have removable brace(s). I do have Daves horn in there. Also what fiber fill should be used? Working on a way right now to move the crossover to external mount. Any ideas, pics etc, would be most helpfull Thanks~ .

Almost done. prelim testing ex results. Don't think I'll get the corns sounding any better after many years of trial n' error. Board is 9 x 16.

Learned something new today. I was using a soldering gun on a crossover about 2 1/2 inches away from ferrite core inductor and saw a very faint orangeish spark travel from the coil to the gun tip; just one iota of a mili second. Upon further investigation, I noticed that the weller tip was real loose on one connection inside the gun. Not sure if that happened because it wasn't grounded properly, dunno. Checked inductor specs and all was well. Threw away the gun and purchased new iron.

----------------------------------------------------------------***********************************************************-Make sure you get Electrical solder, not plumbing type as the latter cases corrosion in time. A good 60/40 will work, even better with a 2% or 4% silver. Obviously solid silver is a no go. Takes way too much heat to melt, think brazing. Ever find a spool and it's not labeled.. a good test to find out what it is.. Leaded solder will leave a shiner joint than the lead free which is dullish looking. Remember to get your parts to fit together as good as possible before you solder. Solder is made to just fill in the gaps and not be treated like a glue, jb weld etc

Correct.. parallel...

Bob's cast frame woofers, Dave's Cornwall Fastrac horn with K-51-V and Bob's CT120-DE120, Cutover 400-500 / 5800-6k.

Just started to build new crossovers for my Cornscalas. Some parts just laid out on board for placement purposes. After much research.. I narrowed it down to these caps which have all been matched to values and pairs. The board is 9x16.. Caps are the size of grenades.. Erse Super Q inductors ClarityCap CSA low Mundorf Supreme mid/high Jupiter VT mid/high 'Ill post as things progress. 2 beer job so far.. Ron

Sweet build! Those Jupiters sure are sexy...

<scratch> Another idea., do you have the latest firmware update installed? ron