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Gliderguy3's Achievements


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  1. UPDATE: It does appear to be a varistor or an inrush limiter. I was able to get it unsoldered from the board and can read SCK, 104, 947. It was very faint, and part of the markings were damaged with the meltdown. I did some digging around and found that these are sized by diameter, and mine is about 13mm. I think I also learned that the 104 means 10 ohm nominal resistance and rated for 4 amps. That makes sense with the protective fuse rated at 3.15 A (weird size, but it is on both the fuse and the holder) I don't know about the 947, I couldn't find any reference to that. So if I find any 250 volt, 10 ohm, 4 amp (or greater, looks like 5 and 6 are available) varistor I should be good to go, or are there other critical specifications? I see that there is a secondary ohm spec for once you have reached the breakdown voltage, but it is like 250 milliohms, and different tolerance ratings. It seems these are designed to be sacrificial to protect the rest of the components, so I am feeling better about my chances of reviving the sub. I also figured out that the lead spacing was either 7 or 7.5 mm, and appears to be 0.8mm diameter, (some higher rated leads are 1.0mm diameter) Now I just need to find a source that will let me buy just one or two (in case I somehow screw up the first one) Most of the websites I found while researching want to sell in batches of 50 or more.
  2. I have a pair of Klipsch SW-112 subs, and one started blowing fuses upon plugging in. I did some digging around and found what looks like a blown ceramic or tantalum cap. It has some kind of green shrink wrap over it, so I don't know the capacity or size in order to replace it. Can anyone figure it out from these images? The label on the circuit board says TH3, and there is a TH4 elsewhere on the board slightly larger, and again wrapped with some kind of shrink wrap so I cannot see any color codes or specifications on the component.
  3. I have a pair of SW 112s, (one I am trying to get fixed for an amp issue) the other is hiding in my coat closet and is bass reinforcement for my 6 and 8 inch ceiling speakers, which it does well for a large chunk of a 3000 square foot house. The SW-112 has a slot loaded port, and what looks to be a fiberglass or carbon fiber woofer cone (no dust cap, the voice coil is vented through the center of the magnet assembly.) Other than the amp problem that I am trying to resolve on one (and it was bought used, don't know if abused, and ran for two years without issue). If you want to stay with Klipsch, I think it is right there. I have an SW-115 with my main home theater system that I bought new that has run fine for the seven years or so I have had it. Unless you are gonna spend way more than $350 or so, I think you are on the right track with the R-112SW which was what came out after the SW 112, with similar specs.
  4. Has anyone had a chance to aquire one of these yet? For 1/4 the price of a Stadium I am wondering how these would stack up head-to-head. I suspect they would blow just about any other Bluetooth speaker out of the water. Especially if you spent another $500 on a subwoofer and you could still come out at half the price of the Stadium. I wish they had incorporated the WA-2 Transmitter internally and included the receiver dongle. I would have paid a little more for that and Apple Airplay capability. Even a ruggedized "pro" version for office and small auditorium P.A. use would be pretty interesting. I would be interested to hear any thoughts on this product. Thinking about this as a relatively portable high performance all in one system just using a phone or Ipod as a source.
  5. Heh, digging a little deeper, the album causing the problem- Crosby, Stills & Nash "Daylight Again", had the album art saved at - get this - 2400 x 2400! That is not a typo, it would have to be downsampled to fit vertically on a 4k quad HD screen. Almost a 6Mb file. The Norah Jones album that plays with no problem was saved at 1200 x 1200. Don't think I have a problem because all my other ripped. FLAC files are 500 x 500 or smaller. Technology is wonderful - when it works!
  6. The discontinued X-5's are my favorite Klipsch headphone. When I saw that the X-7i used the same balanced arature driver it really got my attention... BUT - I am an Android user. I am really hoping to see the release of an X-7A version. Any other forumites out there holding out hope for these?
  7. Does anyone know what the maximum album art file size allowed embedded in a FLAC file? I recently found that I can stream hi rez (DVD-A, 96kHz/24bit) FLAC directly to my Denon 3311 through Songbird. Some files would not play until I stripped out the embedded album artwork. Niether DLNA or FLAC seem to specify a maximum file size for album art metadata, any Denon experts here know what that limit might be? During troubleshooting I converted the files to ALAC 48/16 to stream through iTunes and it also failed until i stripped the artwork from the individual files. In all cases, the unmodified files would play to the computer speakers thru either Songbird or iTunes. Thanks in advance!
  8. After doing due dilligence research, it looks like the main difference is Klipsch has been steadily lowering the crossover point with each new generation. The RB35s cross over at 2350hz, the RB81(ii) has it down to 1400 ! slight bump in power handling after the 35's. Slight sensitiy increase starting with the 75. Getting the crossover down almost an octave has to be the biggie though. Seems that would make the sweet spot bigger, i seem to recall woofers get "beamy" as the wavelength approaches the size of the driver.
  9. Bill, you hit my quandary right on the head. I can get the pair of RB-35's for about 1/4 the price of new RB-81's and I also had the concern about finding a matching center. The fact that the RC-62 (ii) seems to be so well regarded may tip me that direction. I can almost afford to get the rb-35's as temporary surrounds and maybe move them to the bedroom as primary speakers later. I think I could live with a slight timbre mismatch on the surrounds as long as the front three were well matched.
  10. Have a chance to pick up some local used RB 35's, but have heard reviews that the RB 81 (II) has considerably improved voicing. Would use these as mains for a home theater, Have been holding off on getting the SW-115 for a few more weeks, If I decide on new RB-81's would want to try to get a package price. Could probably swing the RC 62 (II) at the same time, but the surrounds would have to wait a bit. Anyone who has heard both care to comment? Will probably be used 75% home theater and 25% music. Will be driven by a Denon 3311CI. Add on amplification like Emotiva or such not out of the question but would be down the road a while. Not sure if additional power would be a huge upgrade given the sub should more than keep up with speakers of this class. I keep wondering about the RB 75 with that relatively ginormous 1.75 inch tweeter horn vs the 1 inch drivers in the other above speakers. Did Klipsch get away from those strictly to maintain a price point or are they considered superior to the others? Have yet to see a used set of RB 75's come up for sale anywhere near me.
  11. I am looking to buy a RB 81 based home theater system. I am dealing with a bit of WAF resistance so would like to find somewhere in Arizona or Las Vegas that actually has a showroom with speakers set up to demo. The Klipsch dealers links are pretty far out of date, I get a lot of custom installers with no inventory or "Yea, we had that brand 5 years ago but don't actively carry it anymore. I would like to see and hear some RB 81's RC 62, and maybe RS 52 speakers. I would love to find somewhere that carries Heritage as well, would like to A/B the RB 81's with maybe some Heresy's. Heresy's are at the absolute max of my new purchase size and price range for mains. I am personally somewhat opposed to the Gallery series, but would like to be able to compare them to the above as well. For $500 each I want a little bit more capability than I suspect they posses. LA, Albuquerque or Santa Fe are not totally out of the question, either. If I can keep it less than an 8 hour drive one way from Prescott, Arizona where it is just possible to do a round trip in one long day.
  12. IIIIImmmm BAAAAAAAACCCCCK! been crawling around my attic trying to fix a cat 5 wiring problem, finally got the problem solved. Haven't been browsing many sites except speedtest.net and speakeasy. I am leaning hard toward the SW 115, Seems like a good value for a new sub with warranty. I am liking the wireless add-on capability and would probably use that to let me stealth the sub a bit. as far as something like a RSW-15 I am a little shy about buying a used sub unless the price is a steal. There is no good way that I know of to tell how hard it has been pounded on. I like the lil'mike design F20 and the Fitzmaurice THT, but I am not ready to commit 30 or 40 hours of shop time to make something furniture grade that my wife would actually let in the house. I also fear for the sliding glass door that sits near one corner behind the listening area if I go that capable (If I have it, it WILL get cranked occasionally when the house is SANS spouse.) I have just about squirrelled away a second $1000 to try to get an RB81 / RC 62 / RS 52 set to complete it all. (or at least pretty close to having the purchase price as cash in hand.) The sub should be 3-6 dB more capable than the mains which means I just won't really run out of steam. I would go a small step up in size to Heresy, but am unsure about a center speaker. This is also the point where the WAF resistance starts to look like an open circuit. This thread has really taken off, I do appreciate all the thoughtful replies. I may eventually go lil'mike or BFM, but I have a feeling that the project would run months before I could complete, and I want to do something a little more turnkey for my first real go at it.
  13. Symmetrical box with identical drivers on each face, doesnt matter if it is 3,4,5, or 50,000 drivers. it will be balanced as long as everything is wired up in phase. There are way too many helicopters flying around with 2,3,4,5, or even 8 bladed rotors for me to believe an odd number of drivers has any inherent difficulty, except for making the box symmetrical. Triangular is easy with 30 degree miter cuts. Anyone such as yourself who has cut 7 degree miter angles for a TT could probably do 30 degree miter cuts while drunk, during a 7.5 earthquake with a cop shootout going on next door. Amp load, yea, maybe, but I am not sure if that doubling of distortion comes from the new voltage swing requred or if it more slaved to power. If you ran a mono amp rated for 500 watts at rated power you get rated distortion, but if you bridge it to 1000 watts and throttle back down to 500 are you still saying you get double distortion or only when you run it maxed out? Ohm ratings on a loudspeaker driver are all over the map anyway, and the fixed number is just an average. some drivers and amp combinations might be a natural born nightmare and some might play very well together depending on where the impedance min and max are. My attic has standard 2 ft spacing on trusses, couldn't get a box up much wider than 20 or 21 inches. LOTS of vertical space and headroom to take a low profile style TT or THT vertically up through the opening and keeping it vertically oriented all the way to the installation location, only about 15 feet away from the attic access point. One of the real plusses in my home's layout!
  14. I just noticed that the new SW-11x line all "go to 11." That is almst worth the money just for the Spinal Tap reference! Wonder if the model numbers were a clue and if I should wait for the SW-12X series of subs...
  15. Three drivers would balance fine in a triangular box. The amp load would be o.k. if they were 8 ohm drivers and you had an amp stable at two ohm loads. Before i go that route, I would build a THT in the attic space and hide its mouth behind a fake air return grille. My only reservation about Heresy as HT is WAF for the center speaker. I am not aware of anything lower profile thatwould be timbre matched to the heritage line.
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