Boydfp

I wonder if the new speakers will be offered in tri-amplified versions.

+1 for the Grado. I have a Grado Sonata on my SL1200 and it sounds wonderful with the Khorns, no hum at all. It was recommended by Kevin at KAB who also said he runs horns.

Awesome!!! I would love to hear them. Thanks so much for the invitation. I'll send you a PM.

In addition to the tube amps already mentioned, I've heard of the following being used with Khorns: Transcendent T16 (single or bridged) Cayin A-88T (Integrated) Cayin A-50T (Integrated) Eico HF-81 (Integrated) Latino ST-70 or ST-120

Absolutely beautiful Jorjen!!!! I wish I had your talent. Can't wait to hear your review.

Thanks Al. Revision made.

Never Mind

Why not run the same 2" wood horn and 2" JBL driver on top of a La Scala bass bin? If you use the same Universal crossover they should sound pretty close. I've heard Al Klappenberger say that you could use his AP12-350 (mid to bass crossover meant for Khorn) on a La Scala if the La Scala was being used as a center channel. I bet the Universal would work well this way too. If need be, the La Scala bass bin could be put to one side of your screen since lower frequencies are less directional. (I would still keep it in the front.) Then the Khorn top could be centered over or below your screen. In the Garage Sale area there is a La Scala bass bin on sale right now for $125. Edit: Sorry. I missed you were already using a La Scala as a center. I bought a split La Scala to match my Khorns for the front channels. My plan is to do what I mentioned above. I think you will be missing way too much information if you cut off below 400 Hz. Larry

Dave/Coytee/Mark Thank all of you for your comments. I'm learning a lot and for me that's part of the fun. (Coytee, I didn't receive your PM.) I researched Ashly limiters for my subwoofers and was very impressed with the reviews. Ashley seems to emphasize sound quality over features. I've been reading Mark1101's and Rudy81's experiences regarding the Ashly Protea 4.8SP with great interest. At this time I don't know which way I'll go on crossovers. Going active sounds intriguing but couldn't happen for some time due to the greater expense. However, I'm going to take Coytee's advice and spend some time researching this option. Even if I get upgraded passive crossovers now I could see myself eventually migrating to active. Larry

Coytee: Thanks for your response. I do have a couple of extra solid state amps I could use for the bass bins. If I recall correctly you utilize a Klipsch engineered and tested active crossover design for your two-way Jubiless. Does somebody have a similar ready-to-go design for a three-way Klipschorn? I have a Velodyne SMS-1 bass equalizer where I can adjust the low pass crossover frequncy, low pass slope, subsonic crossover, subsonic slope, phase delay (to align phasing with front speakers), level settings (to match level with front speakers), and parametric equalizer settings. I can then store up to five different settings each retrievable with a single button push. I was wondering if something similar was available for active crossovers. Larry

Randy:I considered the V-trac but it was a little out of my price range. I've considered the Universal networks as my speakers are only about ten feet away from the listening position. However, I do like to lean into the volume at times and my Klipschorns are part of a home theater system. I wonder if you had an active crossover if you could store different slopes for different types of listening. Larry

Beautiful guitar Bruce!

Its a Godin LGX SA

I purchased a new set of Fastrac K horns to go into my 2010 Khorns. During the installation I did need to improvise as the 2010 top had is configured differently than the older Klipschorns. Because there wasn’t sufficient clearances to install the horn support as designed I ended up using the horn support on its side as a block of wood supporting the squared to round adapter at the end of the horn. It works and the horns look level. Initially I installed the horns on just the left speaker and played a mono record so that I could compare between the Fastrac K and K-401. Even with this older recording the difference between the two horns was apparent and discernible by both my wife and oldest daughter. Both described the sound as more open. At this point I felt the horn was a nice upgrade and worth the price though it didn’t seem to be an over the top change. As I went on to better recordings my ears settled in and the difference between the horns became much greater. The Fastrac Ks sound more rich and high end. They have an openness and ease to them that is hard to describe. When I played Norah Jones and Diana Krall I found both of their voices to sound much smoother. I found myself turning up the volume to enjoy the Khorns dynamics, something I avoided doing with the K-401s. All in all a great bang for the buck upgrade and highly recommended. I can’t ever see myself going back to the stock horns. I should mention that all this listening was done with the stock AK-5 crossovers. I had limited funds and had considered replacing the crossovers first but Al Klappenberger suggested I change the horn first even though the mix of the AK-5 and Fastrac K was as he described not ideal. Now I’m anxious to hear what the Alk crossovers sound like with this horn. I’ve got my eye on a set of AP12-350s and ES5800s. Looks like I’ll have to sell that old guitar I don’t play anymore.

I'm looking a building a set of false corners for my Klipschorns due to an open floor plan on one side of my family room and protruding window seals on the other. I've read about every false corner post and settled on a design that copies the Rudy81 design: two pieces of 3/4" plywood sandwiching 3/4" MDF screwed onto a 3/4" MDF floor. My concern is the length of the walls. In my email exchange with Klipsch they have made it quite clear that a 48" long internal wall is the bare minimum required to avoid deteriorating low and mid range frequency response. (Apparently the Dope from Hope article isn't accurate as it shows a 48" outside dimension implying a 42 3/4" internal wall based on the construction.) However, if my internal walls extend past 43" I'll begin blocking a recessed area reserved for a future built in entertainment center. While I understand that 48" will provide better performance I have no idea how much I will lose by giving up 5" Any experience with shorter walls? Update: I met with my cabinet maker and he says he can integrate the false corner extensions into the future built in cabinets so I guess my problem is solved. I'm going with the full 48" walls.