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GWK

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  1. I've bought a bunch of oil-based non-hardening modeling clay and stuck it to the horns and woofer basket in one of my new Klipsch Heresies. I'm pleased to report that it's audibly smoother than the undamped speaker as a result. I put 1/4 to 1/2" of clay on all of these surfaces (covering basically all of the woofer basket and horns, with more clay toward the throat of the mid horn.) I used about 3lbs of clay on the one speaker done so far. However, since I bought the clay before I even had the speakers, it turns out that I have WAY more of it than I'm likely to need (I bought 20 lbs, for less than $30 shipped it's a decent price, I think). Here's my question, for those who have used clay or a similar damping compound on your speakers: Is there any benefit to having more than 1/4 - 1/2 inch on the metal driver surfaces? That seemed like a lot while I was doing it (and my hands, wrists, and even elbows hurt the next day -- for the second speaker I think I'll warm the stuff up to soften it), and produced some results, but I wonder whether I've reached the point of diminishing returns yet. I have a lot of clay, and it's kind of fun to apply (I felt like Richard Dreyfuss in "Close Encounters"), so I'm open to using more. I really like the way these sound, so I may proceed to irreversible modifications, like gluing in some additional cabinet bracing. I'll probably use the rest of the clay on the cabinet panels after bracing the heck out of it. GWK
  2. I've got a pair of Heresies on their way (bought them on ebay a couple of days ago), and I'm trying to get the rest of the system ready. I've got a Marchand electronic crossover, which has symmetrical 24dB/octave Linkwitz-Riley filters. I've got a sub consisting of 4 long-throw 15" woofers mounted on a baffle in my ceiling with the backs open to the attic. Currently, the sub is crossed in at 100Hz, because I wanted to have the dynamic output capability that my mains lack. I'd like to cross lower to minimize integration issues. The speakers that I've got coming are Heresy I's, but I'm not sure from what year. I'm guessing that they probably start rolling off around 70Hz or so. Should I cross them there? Can I get away with a lower crossover point? Where do the low-xmax woofers of the Heresy start to be the bottleneck for high output? Any detailed info on the actual rolloff of the Heresy or on others' experiments with sub integration would be most appreciatively received. Thanks, Grant W. Kahn
  3. Howdy, ladies and gentlemen! After much agonizing about assembling a DIY horn speaker project to try to find out whether this is my path to audio nirvana, I have instead fairly impulsively put down a low-ish but nonetheless victorious bid on ebay for a pair of Heresies. However, the seller doesn't know the model year and has already boxed them up so can't give me the serial numbers, and I'm left waiting at least a week before I can start messing with them. My question is, what are the major milestones along the Heresy timeline? These are Heresy I's, so that draws one limit, and I don't think they're older than say mid-70's, so there's another one. So what were the driver and crossover changes that were made along the way? Up 'til when will I need a "P Trap"? When did the "E" crossovers get replaced by the "B" crossovers? You get the idea -- I'm trying to imagine tweaking them until I actually get them in hand to do it for real. Finally, these have a bit of damage to one grille, from a cat. Are the current model replacement grilles compatible with older speakers? Thanks for any info, Grant W. Kahn
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