Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

Quiet_Hollow

Regulars
  • Content Count

    2454
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Quiet_Hollow

  1. Critics be damned, we both enjoyed it. Tear jerker.
  2. If all that's available at the time is those four, then by all means stick with Auto Surround. It'll detect the the 2-ch signal and stay in stereo. The only "issue" with that mode for those of us with extra speakers attached is that it keeps the center and surrounds amps idling. Selecting stereo by cycling through the surround modes will shut off all the other amps not associated with that activity. The bus relays then switch off, which is what I prefer strictly for 2 ch. We've both got the same unit BTY. The menu may be more limited in part by the use of 2.1 vs. 5.1, bi-amping or not , etc... Referencing Section 6, pages 65-66 in the operators manual.
  3. I agree, and often use this either for game day or when falling to sleep to ambient sounds/music. It envelopes the room It's mirrored stereo, no center, equal SPL, no convolution applied, subwoofer active. Gets the most power into the room utilizing all attached speakers. In older surround receivers, it was known as "Party Mode". Similar in function to distributed audio.
  4. My expert opinion is to buy an ATMOS capable receiver solely for its ability to process the object-based sound field bitstream, and nothing more. Dolby and DTS companies market object based surround encoding as a highly scalable technology. Do the math, what scales up also scales down. Quite wonderfully in fact. Their 2, 3, and 5 channel down-mixes have never sounded better. If a person encounters difficulty in achieving a convincing surround field with 2 or 5 channels, throwing more speakers at the problem is not the solution. Speaker-wise, beyond 5 channels is the point of quickly diminishing returns. Where ceiling speakers are concerned, if the building's got 'em, smoke 'em, but I would never spec a brand new HT install based around their use.
  5. There's several more available, contingent upon how many speakers are connected. In a typical 2-ch setup, basic stereo output (with all MCACC processing enabled) is achieved by cycling through the surround listening modes (SURR button on the remote) until "STEREO" is displayed.
  6. Dreaded? That's a little over top...how about "corner frequency?" Re-design the cabinet.
  7. I own and have significant experience with an AS-EQ1, a stand alone XT32 unit purposed strictly for subwoofer duty. Although I respect the approach of all the consumer available DSP, Pioneer was the first to put everything I wanted all under one roof and price it for mortals....cough, TacT, cough.
  8. The spring in the Deltron are the tightest in the industry. No locking feature necessary as it takes almost 10 lbs of force just to move them. It's the first thing you notice when you go to plug everything in.....they be very tight.
  9. The Pioneer Elite series amps pack a serious amount of DSP capability into a single unit. Like all good horn speakers, they [AVRs] are not simply plug and play. I'm posting my settings so that if anyone happens to run any of the big Heritage speakers, and use, or will soon be using a Pioneer AVR they'll have a decent audible benchmark from which to gauge their experience from. Note: Arguably these setting are strictly my preference, but they have been cultivated through a few years of experimenting and comparative listening to a wide variety of music, movies, various headphones. Not to mention simply unplugging once in a while to enjoy the sounds of nature and humanity in real life. Think "starting point" and go from there. Either through the iControlAV5 app or via the remote Receiver-Main/Audio P. (parameter) menu: PQLS - OFF This is a signal clocking feature unique to Pioneer branded Blu-ray players which I do not own, otherwise I would have this turned on. EQ - ON This is the response profile the DSP develops for your system when running a MCACC sweep, which I highly recommend the ALL Channel Adjust feature when doing so. Standing Wave - ON Phase Control - ON Auto Phase Control - ON LFE ATT (Attenuation) - ON but set to (0) Tone - BYPASS Auto Sound Retriever (ASR) - OFF This feature is a big offender, the unit ships with this engaged. Turn it off unless all you plan to listen to is 128k MP3. Digital Noise Reduction (DNR) - OFF Don't confuse this with the Dynamic Range Compression (DRC) feature found in the Home menu. Dialog Enhancement - OFF X-Curve - (-0.5) Audio Scaler - OFF Hi-Bit 32 - OFF Digital Filter - SLOW Up Sampling - OFF Virtual Depth - OFF Virtual Speakers - MANUAL Virtual Height - OFF Virtual Wide - OFF Virtual SB - OFF Other features only listed via the remote: Fixed PCM - OFF DRC - OFF Input ATT - OFF C. Spread - OFF When running MCACC, selection of the time window is critical to the resultant sound. Review the reverb charts and select a time where the lowest bass frequencies plateau. If you don't like what you hear, document your findings and try a new setting up or down. This is what you paid for. No other unit has this capability nor flexibility, but it requires some work on the owner's part. I stress this again, getting the DSP time window wrong will result in crap. Off to one side yields a bright, harsh sound. The other will yield a sucked out experience devoid of any reverberant field, at no fault of the speakers or amplifiers. When watching movies, I'm in the "Surround" listening mode...the unit will automatically detect the bitstream and display it. For 2-ch I'm either in "Stereo" or "Neo X: Music" listening mode. I steer clear of the AUTO Surround, ALC (Auto Level Correction), and Optimum Surround listening modes as I found they simply crush the sound field. I also do not employ the Direct and Pure Direct listening modes except for when running diagnostics, as they defeat the efforts of the DSP.
  10. Are any of these features valuable to you?
  11. Some of y'all are really showing your Heritage noobiness....and frankly, aesthetic snobbery. These cabs are the original La Scala design.....not meant for the home, but truly designed as a theater work horse. No cosmetic treatment, and straight to the point functionality. Performance wise, these cabinets are arguably superior to the product that eventually found its way into people's homes. The top is fully open to avoid creating a cavity, the likes of which they subsequently "fixed" on the La Scala II. The woofer chamber is assembled horizontally for maximum mouth rigidity. The sides braced full length in this way, the bottom constrained by the floor, and the upper side secured by the K400 horn extension/baffle. Not cosmetic, but a very effective design. Heavy duty full-ply Birch, not veneered Fir. Paint? Satin black, like everything else in show business. When the lights dim, the cabinets disappear into the shadows. The crossovers are bullet-proof PIO. Awesome historical find. True vintage. I would totally buy these so long as they weren't rotted or moldy on the inside. I agree with HDR...hang them the museum ceiling upside down, drive them with a small SET amp, and a touch of EQ thrown in around 40-50Hz for an amazing background music experience. In fact, I know just who to contact to find the perfect tube amp to drive these pair.
  12. What model Elite are you using? I wouldn't recommend running any of the D3 product as such. To do so defeats several of it's unique advantages.
  13. Don't expect audio nirvana straight out of the box with the Pioneer. They ship with every bell and whistle feature turned on, which you'll promptly have to spend some time carefully rooting around in the menu tree to turn off. Not to mention sifting through the dearth of sound field/DSP modes simply to find basic "stereo". The menu will take some getting used to as the Panasonic XR is simply brilliant in comparison. Once you get it set up though, you'll be good to go. Eventually you figure where you need to visit most frequently....just not as intuitively as with the Panasonic. Naturally, the Pioneer can do significantly more. You'll need to run MCACC to achieve even partial stride. Once you've spent some time with the DSP, and it is dialed-in however, it's seriously game on! Wait until you get a load of Dolby ATMOS/Digital on your movies, and I wasn't kidding what I said earlier about the D3 amps.
  14. Ever heard an AL-3? It bears no resemblance in character to the AL. Not that I'm poo poo-ing the AA, just that a person can't simply gloss over the AL-3 based on the performance of the previous designs.
  15. Perhaps...could swear the La Scala picked up a tiny bit of improvement in snap after the swap, but at this point I'm splitting hairs. FWIW, A glass of booze makes a bigger difference right now. I know I'm not even busting 1V at the speakers 99% of the time, but honestly I've also never metered the power cord to see what's actually getting slung around inside there with the system at full tilt. I suspect it'd be less than amp. It just got to me one day, and I saw a replacement hanging on the rack at the electronics store, so I snagged it.
  16. Replace the stock 18AWG power cord with 14AWG. About $10. Done.
  17. Electrovoice TL4025 ...Don't forget their Sentry Series either.
  18. Even JBL makes one. Their ASH6118:
  19. FWIW - Back in the day, Panasonic did offer a direct competitor to the Pioneer ICE-based Elites in the form of the Tripath powered SA-BX500. It was TrueHD and DTS-HD capable. Definitely worth checking out, if you can source one. Last I looked, they were more elusive than the SA-XR700.
  20. Very likely because they've never experienced a fully tuned, late model D3 unit (Elite SC-57 onward). OP, here's one of the primary reasons the XR sounds good: Very little idle noise, with consistent behavior until the PS prevents the chips from melting. OTOH, here's one of the primary reasons the D3's are so awesome for HT: There's a little more noise to start off with (first thing I immediately noticed when I compared the two on my La Scala), but the amps quickly hit their stride...and continue to perform extremely well all the way into war volume. With a good signal, the D3's have an "unlimited" sound....the type of performance that will run me straight out of the house because it's so loud, but have me giggling in the front yard because it still sounds soooo good, even outside. Sure, the Equibit craps out before the D3's power-wise....that's a given. But what is also not shown (and is noticed by many that have spent time with the XR), is that the Equibit doesn't have inspiring IMD numbers once you step on the gas. Couple that with no TrueHD or DTS-HD capability during movies (only the lossy core), and movie soundtracks can come across bright or grainy at times, all the while PCM performance (like typical 2-ch stuff) remains stellar. Consider those two above to the graph of the earlier model SC. Throw MCACC Pro on top of that as Schu mentioned, and it's really hard find a better solution, all under one hood.
  21. No. Not the same, however the DSP and power supply capability in the Elite SC series yields significant performance. I feel your pain, and it's the only reason the Pioneer drives my living room system.....otherwise I'd still be using my XR-57's.
  22. Disconnect (de-solder) one side of the Zenner diodes, then test for continuity across the pair. There should be none, or at least a very high resistance present. Likely, a previous user fried one and it's dumping current where it shouldn't. Also, check each spade connector along the barrier strip and look to see if any happen to be touching the bus wire that passes underneath them. Caps could be suspect, sure, but are rated much higher than the tweeter VC and the Zenner shunt. Seeing that you already isolated the crossover, I'd be looking at the Zenners next.
×
×
  • Create New...