Quiet_Hollow
-
Posts
2477 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Quiet_Hollow
-
-
Perhaps...could swear the La Scala picked up a tiny bit of improvement in snap after the swap, but at this point I'm splitting hairs. FWIW, A glass of booze makes a bigger difference right now.
I know I'm not even busting 1V at the speakers 99% of the time, but honestly I've also never metered the power cord to see what's actually getting slung around inside there with the system at full tilt. I suspect it'd be less than amp.
It just got to me one day, and I saw a replacement hanging on the rack at the electronics store, so I snagged it.
-
2
-
-
Replace the stock 18AWG power cord with 14AWG. About $10. Done.
-
Electrovoice TL4025
...Don't forget their Sentry Series either.
-
9 hours ago, Chris A said:
There are many horn-loaded subwoofer brands available in the pro world.
Even JBL makes one. Their ASH6118:
-
FWIW - Back in the day, Panasonic did offer a direct competitor to the Pioneer ICE-based Elites in the form of the Tripath powered SA-BX500. It was TrueHD and DTS-HD capable.
Definitely worth checking out, if you can source one. Last I looked, they were more elusive than the SA-XR700.
-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, Schu said:
Many folks still covet that gen ice based elite,
Very likely because they've never experienced a fully tuned, late model D3 unit (Elite SC-57 onward).
OP, here's one of the primary reasons the XR sounds good:
Very little idle noise, with consistent behavior until the PS prevents the chips from melting.
OTOH, here's one of the primary reasons the D3's are so awesome for HT:
There's a little more noise to start off with (first thing I immediately noticed when I compared the two on my La Scala), but the amps quickly hit their stride...and continue to perform extremely well all the way into war volume. With a good signal, the D3's have an "unlimited" sound....the type of performance that will run me straight out of the house because it's so loud, but have me giggling in the front yard because it still sounds soooo good, even outside.
Sure, the Equibit craps out before the D3's power-wise....that's a given. But what is also not shown (and is noticed by many that have spent time with the XR), is that the Equibit doesn't have inspiring IMD numbers once you step on the gas. Couple that with no TrueHD or DTS-HD capability during movies (only the lossy core), and movie soundtracks can come across bright or grainy at times, all the while PCM performance (like typical 2-ch stuff) remains stellar.
Consider those two above to the graph of the earlier model SC. Throw MCACC Pro on top of that as Schu mentioned, and it's really hard find a better solution, all under one hood.
-
No. Not the same, however the DSP and power supply capability in the Elite SC series yields significant performance.
I feel your pain, and it's the only reason the Pioneer drives my living room system.....otherwise I'd still be using my XR-57's.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, LalaWoots said:
I would just like to fix the probable component for now and later save for the full recap after I learn to do it myself. Could it be the diode or more likely all the caps? I want to stay with the original square cap look and quality replacements with the mounting tab at the bottom.
Disconnect (de-solder) one side of the Zenner diodes, then test for continuity across the pair. There should be none, or at least a very high resistance present. Likely, a previous user fried one and it's dumping current where it shouldn't. Also, check each spade connector along the barrier strip and look to see if any happen to be touching the bus wire that passes underneath them.
Caps could be suspect, sure, but are rated much higher than the tweeter VC and the Zenner shunt. Seeing that you already isolated the crossover, I'd be looking at the Zenners next.
-
Not "stuck" per say, but we've still got a few DVD's that we occasionally rotate through. As was said, some titles (like good documentaries and such) simply aren't available outside of DVD or even VHS for that matter.
We have a healthy collection of Blu-Ray, and from what I gather recently we're supposedly Luddites in the face of the streaming/cloud era.
DVD was/is plenty for a TV sized less than 50". If you don't believe me, just find an 'ol SUPERBIT formatted copy and A/B that directly against Blu-Ray.
The real upgrade for BR for me was the loss-less audio....which the execs quickly F**k'd up by sending everything off to DTS for re-mastering. The real audio treasures of today are the discs encoded in Dolby True / ATMOS.
-
1
-
-
-
7 hours ago, jason str said:
Already voiced my opinion on the subject.
Good luck with your build.
+1 here for the Tuba HT.
-
1
-
-
On 9/26/2017 at 8:26 AM, Schu said:
Nice try, but it still looks like suspiciously like 1440x900 on my end. Even the 8K stuff.
We're holding out for the Panasonic OLEDs. Hands down. Pretty ballsy when the Japanese can confidently tell the manufacturer of the panel (LG) that they can drive it better than they can. Didn't figure it'd be more than 5 years past our original mark though.....stupid curved screens and all. Been waiting 20 years for this.
-
I've got both my 103's (bedroom and living room) set to query automatically for the latest firmware updates, but I'll try it out manually and see if they discover anything.
Dunno, I don't see how it's possible, but maybe it's my internet connection? One thing is for sure is that it's definitely the loading of the ads causing the problems. I can play a string of videos without commercials all day long, but as soon as the player has to load an advertisement, the unit(s) tend to flake out.
Last resort I suppose would be a Fire Stick/Roku or the like, but it's just one more dongle hanging off my gear.
-
On 10/14/2017 at 2:51 AM, joop said:
This summer I built a pair of THTLP's, which I'll try to integrate with my La Scala II's. As to determine delays, does anybody know the exact length of the horn path of a La Scala bass bin?
The acoustic length is 53.75 cm
-
1
-
-
Wouldn't you know it. The day after I post this and You Tube updates their player software again....I gather to delineate between their new YouTube "Red" pay-per-view service. Although it crashes less now...we still get the occasional lock up, but at least we can usually exit out of the app without having to reboot the entire player. For now.
I really feel for the people that actually pay for the Red only to be suffering the same woes. Ridiculous.
I can't wait for artificial intelligence to be employed at writing it's own optimized code. Maybe at that point, we'll actually realize just how fast the computers of today really are, instead of the confounded mess most computer-idiots currently program them to be. </rant>
-
-
1
-
-
More gain available at an analog power amp stage is fine so long as the resultant noise floor remains below your audible threshold.
It is all too easy to strap into too much power however, and have the system hissing at you all the time....even on the quiet stuff.
In the analog world, that's the trade-off for headroom in the majority of cases.
-
1
-
-
How many times per day do you have to reboot your player because the YouTube app (Opera) locks up?
I consistently average about five videos before the advertisements end up crashing everything...rendering a $400 blu-ray player useless until I forcefully reboot. I draw the line at three times if I'm really in the mood to watch something. Lately, I've gotten to the point where if it crashes even once, well then F**k it, I simply turn it off and do something else. Not exactly good money considering.
Anyone else with similar issues?
-
-
The old man wrote about this. It's not a race to strap into as much power as possible.
In HT, almost all the power gets routed to the sub. That's smart money. That's also where the majority of time researching proper equipment selection and setup (types, room interaction, crossover/filter theory) should be spent. Not all of it of course, but in large part.
It really pays to try to understand how the equipment can be made to fight itself or work together in concert.
Advanced DSP and digital signal routing are also a wild card here. These features can easily make or break a system...often times with a simple push of a button. Not all AVRs are created equal, and not all power amps are silver bullets simply because they are discrete. As was said before, with HT it's about obtaining synergy.
-
2
-
-
Tripp Lite IS1800HG isolation transformer
-
9 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:
The surrounds have be glued back with Lock Tite super glue and it appears to be working.
Good choice sticking with the acrylic. I'd have avoided the Gorilla Glue recommendation (a polyurethane) which exhibits relatively poor adhesion to metals/very smooth surfaces.
-
1
-
-
On 6/6/2017 at 5:06 AM, tube fanatic said:
I assume that the .75V measurement was with the -12 db test tone (which frequency did you use?). That correlates with a power need of no more than 563 MILLIwatts/channel (into 8 ohms) regardless of what recording you play at the particular volume control setting that you used. Truly no surprise to me either. That amount of power into LSs should provide a level of around 92 db @ 15 feet. Certainly, that's loud enough for many listeners. And measurements like yours explain why so many users of flea power amps with Klipsch speakers find the former to be well up to the job.
220hz... just a touch over where I have the high pass set. It also explains why I've never blown a tweeter either.
Suffice to say, brief exploration into the single digit territory usually warrants a change of underwear.
-
1
-
-
On 5/9/2017 at 2:11 PM, tube fanatic said:
I suspect that it is going to come as a big surprise when folks discover that they don't need 500 wpc to their K-horns for even extremely loud levels!
0.75V on the La Scala L&R channels
4V across the subwoofer
No surprise there really.
In the past I could never tap out my previous AVR's either, much less the incredibly stout Pioneer. Even our pair of, relatively more thirsty, CAT40's required less than 2V to drive an entire block party.
-
1
-
Good choice sticking with the acrylic. I'd have avoided the Gorilla Glue recommendation (a polyurethane) which exhibits relatively poor adhesion to metals/very smooth surfaces.
In the past I could never tap out my previous AVR's either, much less the incredibly stout Pioneer. Even our pair of, relatively more thirsty, CAT40's required less than 2V to drive an entire block party.
La Scala + Academy In The House
in Home Theater
Posted
Ever heard an AL-3? It bears no resemblance in character to the AL. Not that I'm poo poo-ing the AA, just that a person can't simply gloss over the AL-3 based on the performance of the previous designs.