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About nightcabbage

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  1. I know a handful of folks (myself included) that have been drooling over the vintage look of the Distressed Oak and off-white Lambswool grill version of the new Forte IIIs, but aren't in the market for that size (or priced) speaker. Given the new vintage trend down into the smaller ranges, I think it would be great to have The Sixes available with that same styling - people would go nuts over it. I mean, those Forte's are about the only speakers my wife has ever looked at with a reaction other than "I don't want that visible in my house." I didn't see this style for the Sixes on the website, so I'm assuming that finish is not available today?
  2. http://www.klipsch.com/education Looks like someone over there took my detailed post about Content Marketing & thought leadership seriously: http://thinktank.klipsch.com/forums/176351-3-marketing-ideas/suggestions/3404546-more-educational-content-marketing It doesn't have much edutainment value though. You guys over there at Klipsch let me know when you want to crank it up to the next level and then give me a call
  3. Yes but I'm assuming there's more to it than cost for size savings...
  4. I'm having trouble understanding the new line's models and what each would be best for or would pair best with. For instance the SW-308 is an 8" sub that only goes down to 26Hz... but I'm paying MSRP $850 for it. For MSRP $850 I can also get the SW-115 which is a 15" that goes down to 18Hz. I'm just not that up on subs, and I'm failing to understand this new lineup (SW-110, SW-112, SW-115, SW-308, SW-310, SW-311).
  5. http://www.eminent-tech.com/main.html
  6. Interesting thread. I would love to do this for my office setup: Klipsch Icon WB-14: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780084 Emotiva mini-X a-100: http://emotiva.com/a100.shtm Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102033 I'm not certain how I would connect a sub to that setup though...
  7. I got all 5 of my Reference II speakers for almost 50% off (new) at Vanns.com. Just have to wait for good sales.
  8. I feel like I have a good "sound palette" but a poor "sound memory" for comparison. It's amazing that I can't find places to listen/compare in a city as large as Columbus.
  9. I'm not trying to compare two Sub-12s against one RW-12d. I'm not buying another sub... I'd only buy the RW-12d if I could sell my Sub-12 so that I only pay $50-$100 out of pocket for the upgrade. BTW, when you say I have 6dB of headroom are you talking volume? Because my speakers already go much louder than I could ever stand. I'm not a big "power/volume" guy... I'm more about clarity and quality.
  10. Ugg... now we're back to the Sub-12 vs RW-12d thing! Anyone with EXPERIENCE out there care to speak on this topic? I have a Sub-12 and saw the sale on the WR-12d today. GREAT deal. I was thinking about buying the RW-12d if I could sell my sub-12 for $250-$300, but am unsure I should if there really is no difference.
  11. More good points in these followup posts. Thanks guys.
  12. Great stuff. I'm also going to quote the summary paragraph at the end here for all to read because I think it's extremely helpful in wrapping up why we do what we do with our crossover settings, because most people toss around the advice and don't really know why it's there in the first place. "If you want consistent bass response from each channel of your 5.1 system, in our opinion, you're best to set all speakers to "Small", set them all to the same crossover point, and set that point no lower than what you are comfortable throwing away from the LFE channel. If your main left and right speakers are genuinely full range (be honest now!), then you are better off running them full range as opposed to high-passing them at a ridiculously low frequency. Short of that, high passing floor-standing speakers at 70 Hz is not "wasting" them in any way shape or form and in fact will more than likely extend their dynamic range thanks to the relief they'll be getting from the high-pass. Alternatively, setting center and surrounds as "Small", the mains as "Large", subwoofer as "None", and implementing an external two channel crossover to the subwoofer is a valid, and in some situations an advantageous way to go." I don't know what "full range" is, but I don't think it's quite my RF-52IIs. This also makes ryanrusty's advice seem rather short sighted, and I understand why now. (Not that I'm knocking you for giving advice rusty, but I think you should read the article too).
  13. Reading now. Though some of it is a bit beyond my comprehension now, overall it's very helpful. THIS caught my attention: "In the majority of surround sound processors and receivers, FULL RANGE copies of all channels set to "Small" are combined together with the LFE channel, and the sum is low-passed. Think about that. Strictly speaking, any* such processor with a sub/sat crossover frequency set lower than 120 Hz is "discarding" the upper end of the LFE channel. THX units are NOT exempt from this. With the standard THX 80 Hz 4th order crossover, the top of the LFE channel gets chucked. Don't panic. This has been going on since day one, and virtually nobody has noticed . . . with good reason. I've said many times before, and I will say it again: THX did not pull their crossover out of thin air. It is the product of much development, and, when used in concert with THX speakers (or others which exhibit the correct roll-off), represents the best overall compromise of minimizing localization, extending dynamic range, and as it turns out, minimizing LFE truncation. When Dolby Digital was coming to the consumer marketplace, THX looked at an inordinate number of modern 5.1 soundtracks and guess what they found in the LFE channel: not much at all in the region of 80 Hz - 120 Hz, making their original choice of 80Hz rather fortuitous. Dolby Digital's LFE channel has a digital brick wall at 120 Hz, not a roll-off, so content creators almost always roll-off their stuff, usually somewhere around 80 Hz. Therefore, chucking the top band of the LFE is no big deal but the argument here is that a standard SSP crossover set much lower than 80Hz or so may actually be costing you bass content." That's probably the most insightful look I've had into this entire topic yet! Makes perfect sense.
  14. Rusty, please understand the setting I was talking about on point 1 was the physical knob on the back of my sub-12. I've heard many people all over different forums say to leave that physical sub knob on a higher setting and then let your receiver do the actual crossover. In other words: it doesn't matter that my sub knob's crossover would be set to 120hz or 150hz or 100hz if my receiver was set at 80hz. Basically the setting that mattered was the receiver, and I was told to just make sure my sub's knob didn't dip below the receiver's crossover setting otherwise there would be a small loss of range. That's how I've always understood it. The thing that got me thinking after reading this particular thread was all that isn't exactly true... I started to surmise (still not sure rightly so?) that my receiver's crossover setting only effected ranges for my L/R/C/SL/SR channels and NOT the LFE channel, hence the sub actually COULD be receiving some higher frequencies if the sound engineers put them into the LFE channel. So in other words, if I did set my knob on my sub down lower to 80hz or 60hz or whatever, that's not necessarily taking full advantage of LFE channel signals. My concern was LFE since obviously I already handle my other bass crossover with my receiver setting I get rolloff too but... sometimes when you're talking range settings it's just easier to forget about that Besides, speaking to the possible loss of range above: since both settings have rolloffs, you'd still have loss of range. Also in regards to number 5: if I set those RF-52 IIs to "large" on my receiver then I would surmise I don't have ANY of the L/R channel bass put into the sub. I know those speakers can go down pretty low and have a better range, but they certainly don't produce bass as good as my sub-12. So while I may be slightly "cutting the speakers short" of what they can handle, aren't I certainly cutting myself short if I'm not using my sub for any of the range sent to my L/R channels? I suppose in a perfect world I would just set a lower crossover for those RF-52 II L/R speakers, but my receiver only has one crossover setting that seems to apply to all speakers set to "small". The way I understand it is I get one crossover setting, and then I choose to set my speakers to use it, or use no crossover at all. In this case, no crossover at all seems stupid. They aren't THAT good at handling bass.
  15. I was just reading through this thread. I kind of knew some of these things before, but think I understand them with more clarity after reading through this. Thanks for the discussion. A few things I'm wondering if I've got right... Sounds like you always want to set the knob of your sub at 120hz or above, just so it can receive signals that high if they're coming from your LFE channel (or if you've set your crossover on your receiver higher). For example: if I have my crossover on my receiver set to 120hz, and my sub's knob set to 80hz... I'm effectively loosing everything in the 80hz - 120hz range? (Not that I would do that.) I'm assuming that when I set my crossover on my receiver, that is ONLY effecting the frequencies going to my L/R/C/SL/SR that get sent to the sub and NOT capping the LFE frequency? So if my crossover on my receiver is at 80hz, my sub could still receiver 120hz signals from LFE during a movie? My Yamaha receiver has a "level" for each channel, including the sub. Basically like a volume or output or gain or something. I'm assuming that effects ALL bass output to my sub, whether it's from LFE or taken from the other channels? When I listen to movies it sounds like there's a lot more bass than when I listen to music. I'm constantly having to push up the aforementioned "level" of the sub around 5-10dB more when listening to music. I'm assuming that's because I get both low frequencies from L/R/C/SL/SR AND LFE in movies, and only low frequencies from L/R when listening to music? (Kind of annoying constantly having to adjust the bass.) I have RF-52 IIs for my L/R (36Hz-24KHz), RC-52 II for my center (67Hz-24KHz), and RS-42 IIs for my SL/SR (62Hz-24KHz). Due to the range of all these, I'm assuming I need to set my receiver crossover at around 80hz. However, I'm wondering if I should set just my RF-52 IIs on "large" rather than "small" so they aren't effected by the crossover? Or is that not a good idea? In my head, even though they go a lot lower, seems like perhaps there's bass going to L/R channels that would probably be handled by my SUB-12 better, but wasn't sure. My Yamaha receiver has a "BASS OUT" with options of Front, Sub, and Both. Anyone know what that's about? Does it effect only LFE, only channel crossover, or all bass output? Any expert opinion on the above would be appreciated
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