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razzz42

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  1. Yeah, a lot of 4.1 owners don't realize when their sub panels stop working that they can be repaired. The newly redesigned 2.1 doesn't sound as good as the older model. No telling what the results would be if they tried to redesign the 4.1 or 5.1. Besides, all Promedias were advertised as 'computer speakers' back in the day when desktops computer were everywhere, now adays, not so much.
  2. These two (2) speaker leads are 19 feet 6 inches long having molded mono angled 90 degree plugs on one end with standard male mini jack plugins (1/8"/3.5mm) and bare tinned wire on the other end. Fits older Klipsch Promedia 2.1 or 4.1 satellite speakers that takes angled mono plug on one end for inserting into the satellite speaker jack and bared tinned lead on the other end for connecting to the sub panel clips. Meant for the rear speakers of a Promedia 4.1 system to extend the reach and separate the rears further away but works fine if you need more reach than the stock 9' 6" Promedia 2.1 or 4.1 front speaker leads. These mono plugs and wires could work in other situations as needed. Technically considered ribbon 'rip' wire AWG 20 gauge, non-shielded, markings for left, right, positive and negative. Message me here if interested. Only a few available. $15 Free shipping. Invoiced via PayPal.
  3. An upgraded Klipsch 400 watt 4.1 system. Prone to failing at 3 known hot spots on the sub panel., I upgraded 2 areas with higher wattage resistors and mounted them up off the circuit boards for better air circulation along with 1 zener. After the upgrades, I see no reason why the panel shouldn't last for years and years now. The sub is powered by using a standard wall outlet. (Most all 4.1 systems sold on eBay are in need of the fix and upgrades) Advertised as a 400 total watt system with the sub at 160watts and each satellite at 60watts. 110dB SPL, 29Hz - 20kHz. As far as the Promedia 4.1 system goes, the sub panel has BASH amp circuity and is a hard hitter with dual 6 1/2" woofers which makes them very responsive versus one large woofer. The sub cabinet is ported. The entire system is THX certified (by George Lucas), a very clean sound overall. Out of production, it is now a classic system. The 4 satellite speakers have closed cabinets with 3" woofers and Klipsch 3/4" horn tweeters and are pretty much bullet proof (still used in Promedia 2.1 systems). The control pod has Volume, Bass and Surround knobs for adjustments along with a headphone output and an auxiliary input mini-jacks (1/8"/3.5mm). This pod controller has a mute button to manually shut off all speakers when using headphones. The system defaults to stereo output only from just the front speakers when the aux jack is engaged with only the volume control available. MP3 player, handhelds, laptops, phones can use the aux input jack or you can use the front female input lead, either way will work. This sub has (2) brand new 6 1/2" Klipsch factory sub woofers installed, sounds tight like you would expect (same woofer used in the still manufactured Promedia 2.1 systems). Speaker front leads are 9' 6" long, rear leads 19' 6" long, pod-to-sub connection 10' long and the pod controller is attached underneath to one of the satellites. The system is four channel but does not decode a surround signal, you need a sound card, USB unit, desktop computer, receiver, TV, etc., to do the decoding duties to output surround to the front and rear input mini-jacks. Or you can use a 'Y' to create two rights and two lefts in stereo for a fuller sound absent a surround signal source or use the system in a 2.1 mode. The clarity of this system (those Klipsch horn highs) add to the separation and staging besides a pounding sub (those BASH amp driven dual woofers) that is meant to be felt and will make you want to set aside your headphones but the headphone jack can drive those too. Leaving the speakers on while wearing your headphones and you will be able to actually feel the bass. Music, movies,TV, steaming all sound fantastic even at low levels. Called 'computer speakers' these will easily fill a bedroom with sound or a living room or rec room, two car garage, etc. Klipsch Promedia THX 4.1 system specs. Message me here for further details if interested and we can discuss it with photos. For the transaction, a standard PayPal invoice is best and affords both buyer and seller some protections. Free shipping (the sub by itself weighs 17+ lbs). Or maybe you only want the upgraded sub panel or panel and sub, this is possible.
  4. I've only been a customer and referred others almost the same way I directed you except in your case you weren't a Ebay member where it is easy to make contact so better to leave it at that for others to make there own inquires. ... a rose by any other name would smell as sweet?
  5. Let me know if you received that email I sent you.
  6. Click this underlined link>>>>> http://myworld.ebay.com/stpeteshepherd/ At his Ebay web page look on the lefthand side for 'Contact member' and click it, then check the box that says 'This is not about an item' then click 'continue' then fill out the form to send him a message.
  7. stpeteshepherd Click on the link. Then look for 'Contact Member' on the lefthand side.
  8. I'm just glad you received an 'older' system. I think that phone call to Klipsch paid off. There is no mistaking the newer sub, light as a feather and almost bare inside. I only know what Klipsch tells me over the phone. Even replacement speakers are the older plug-in models until they run of stock and begin selling replacement satellites with the pass-thru wiring. You can already get a replacement control pod with the new 90 degree angled plug when ordering through Klipsch Parts. Have fun.
  9. Think you lucked out and received a transitional system. There is no doubt the very newest sub weighs 6 lbs less than the one you have now, I know because I have one. I also have a system like yours with newer DIN plug and pass-thru wiring in the satellites and still has an on/off switch and fuse on the sub (the newest subs no longer have these items, I think subs produced after January 2010). After replacing your control pod, you should be very happy with your system, I'm sure of it. You know I still went in and replaced/upgraded the two resistors to 1 watt and found the areas around the stock 1/4 watters 'browning' already due to the heat they produce. The system was tagged as manufactured in Oct. 2009 so it had very little usage as I bought it 'defective' where even with a newer DIN plug someone managed to bend the pins over when plugging it in. So I straighten the pins up and plugged it in and the whole system sounds great. I had an older 2.1 system that I bought from Klipsch as 'reconditioned' and it sat in my closet for years, never used it because I upgraded to a Promedia 4.1 system around the same time. I sold the 2.1 system recently and when I hooked it up to check it out, it sounded better than any other 2.1 system I ever heard. Wish I would have kept at least the sub, oh well. Now the only other improvement needed is a decent sound card. Makes all the difference in the world. Laptops can use USB sound card type connections. I'm using a Prodigy HD2 ($69 lately on Ebay) stereo sound card (replaceable op-amps) and you wouldn't believe how good it makes the 2.1s sound. The card is especially great for headphones too since you can set a jumper to increase the headphone output (gain).
  10. Also the finally improved the DIN plug with a 90 degree angled plug into the sub. The newer sub is a bit disappointing, at least the one I have. Doesn't seem to be able to produce the lows like older subs. Manual is minus the THX logo but it still appears on the sub port. Can't get a straight answer out of Klipsch if it's still certified or not. I think they have been in production since 1/1/2010. Who knows? Maybe the older ones will become collector's items in time or at least the preferred setup. Let your ears be the judge.
  11. I'd be interest in your opinion of your new system. If Klipsch sends you their current version, which has totally different electronics in the sub (about 6lbs lighter than the older ones and no off/on switch with direct wiring through the satellites) I'm wondering if it will sound the same as your old one or better or worse.
  12. To bad that didn't work. I'd try checking the DIN plug next that plugs into the panel from the controller by turning the unit on and playing some music through it and then flexing the plug at the vinly/rubber boot at the plug to see if you can get the sub to respond as the plugs have a history of failing. If no go then troublleshooting further is your only option or buying a used working sub as getting it repaired might cost more than it's worth.
  13. Sorry about mis-stating the number for the location of the other alike resistor, I was doing it from memory which isn't that good. Of course your schematic is correct esp. if verified on the printed circuit board which is labeled on both sides. You are getting technical on me where the resistor should be within 5% tolerance checked with at least one leg free and yes heat could be the culprit as it changes the value over time or directly when under load. That is the extent of my troubleshooting knowledge, any other technical questions and stpeteshepher on eBay should be contacted or any other reliable source. I don't even bother to check the resistors, I just change them out as a matter of habit whether they look fried or not. Eventually they will begin causing trouble in the long run. It's worth a shot to change the resistors out and at least elimanates the two as a problem even if the sub still refuses to work. From there it would be more troubleshooting looking for hot spots (browning) on front and back of the board not counting areas that just run hot and might slightly discolor an area of the board and more testing. Some components you can't easily check and just have to swap them out with new ones but I hope it doesn't come to that because sometimes it's easier to buy a used working sub and cheaper time wise unless you just want to give it a go. It's hard to mess up the repair, even missing the trace hole with the tip and searing the green coating (I forget the name of it) doesn't hurt anything. Over heating a trace where it might lift off or separating it from the board when you might snag it when pushing a wire leg through and it will still probably work when soldered. Most of the time the biggest pain is scracthing and picking away any over sprayed foam.that might be on them. I'm not pretending I know what I'm doing but have done it basically on advice and advice only because I inquire before I venture in. Even a Klipsch parts guy (phone call) told me that changing those resistors would probably bring my first sub back to life and it did. (Must have caught a Klipsch tech on a good day) For what they are the 2.1s sound pretty good are usually worth trying a repair.
  14. Actually it's just rhe alike resistors R120 and R113 to be replaced. I've worked on about ten subs equals 20 replaced resistors. 60/40 rosin core is the usual standard solder and sufficient. Size, I don't think matters much, you just need to get a glob of solder on your tip then take it over to and place it on the wire leg and trace hole you are working on.Common removal steps would be to grab a wire leg with a tool and heat the solder up from the opposite side of the board until you can pull it through with the tool. As soon as you can see the solder puddle you can start pulling. I do it like that then wick the holes clear of solder. I guess you could pull and heat from the same side or wick the solder completelt away first, do whatever you like. I guess most guys would just bend the legs to size of the holes and to cut the legs to length desired then reheat the old soldered holes and push the new resistor wire leg back through. I clear the holes usually with wick, bend the legs to fit, cut and leave the legs longs, pass them through the holes and tnen resolder on the trace side of the board. Snip the excess wire off, check my work around the hole maybe touch it once more with the tip. Resistors can be installed in either direction, the color bands can run either way. But it is good practice is to keep the bands running the same on both. Silicone Resin Lacquer...is what it says on my old spray can, it's expensive. Circuit boards are spray lacquered after completion for a protective coating. It at least keeps moisture from affecting the connections. I have a 25 watt, 30 watt (Walmart) and 45 watt (Sears) irons. Use the 25 watt with a chisel tip the most. Also have a solder sucker tool but don't use it that often. There are no dumb questions......just stupid answers.
  15. I've got the same exact problem with the same resistor. I get what you're suggesting, but is it really OK to move up from a 1/4 watt to a full watt on those two resistors? Would it perhaps be better to split the difference and just go up to 1/2 watt instead? stpeteshepherd over at ebay, who knows much more about Klipsch subs than I ever will, suggested the 1 watt upgrade. I've done it about ten times or about 20 resistors without a problem. Listening to a 2.1 right now that I upgraded with (2) 1 watt. I've seen the stock 1/4 wat resistors fried or non-functional or browning the circuit board area it lays on or any surrounding insulation but still working even on subs only a couple months old. I don't really troubleshoot but can solder a bit so I just do as suggested. No problems so far, certainly hasn't hurt anything as for peace of mind that the sound won't degrade over time as the stock resistors heat up and begin to fail and act up. Sure you can go 1/2 watt if you want. I manage to change out the resistors without removing the circuit board from the panel. Have a dental pick and razor knife of some type at hand to remove any over sprayed adhesive/insulation foam that might be holding then in. I de-flux the soldered area and re-spray silicone on the area. That's probably just overkill on my part. #1 wicking ribbon to remove solder sometimes comes in handy. Also was told to leave the new 1 watt resistors high (1/4 inch) off the board to help air circulation cool them so I do that too. It's a fairly easy project, have fun.
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