Delicious2
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Posts posted by Delicious2
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On 2/13/2020 at 12:19 PM, Chris A said:
Really, the issue is whether or not you're trying to use that dipole backwave like Rudy is, trying to get 99% out of it. For my use, I place them on top of the Khorn clone bass bins, right in the middle of the top of the top hat:
I have no complaints. If you're trying to get the same type of effect as a pair of Magnepans or MartinLogans, I can see where you'd want to move the AMT-1 assemblies away from the walls, but that's not possible if using Khorn bass bins (unless using large false corners). This thread was started on the premise that many here would want to retrofit an AMT-1 assembly on top of their existing Heritage loudspeakers, and that's the way that I'm intending to use them.
I see no downside to this at all, in fact, it's a pretty big upside.
Chris
A little surprised to see you using them this way Chris. Active dsp no doubt. How do you get it to mate well with the Khorn bass bin clone? Can I PM you for your current Xilica xdat file?
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6 hours ago, Rolox said:
...I then proceeded to remove all the foam - just leaving it on one of the horizontal panel that is facing the removable bottom panel, since that's the only place where standing waves can occur. That worked, and allowed the driver to do its job while removing a lot of the woody resonance and spurious vibrations (when you are sitting in semi-nearfield, you sometimes hear the cabinet "singing along" even with FH1; in a huge room sitting far I'd think it's less annoying). Sometimes I have the feeling the PERCEIVED output might be 1 dB less than untreated, but it's probably just hearing less resonances and distortions, and in an active setup wouldn't matter much anyways. Globally very happy as to how it turned out. Hoping it will work as good with 15C drivers in there.
Whatever you choose to do, DO NOT over damp the back chamber, and of course (you know that already) do not touch the horn path.
In my system the fH1s are used with John Allen A55G mid drivers, EV SM120 mid horns, Beyma CP25 tweeters; active 24dB at 400Hz and passive 6Khz - sounds great even if I wouldn't compare it with some K402 and big high end 2" drivers.
I use two high end Focal active subs, and I tried crossing them over at 80Hz but it made the bass quite slow; horn subs are not an option so I ended up high-passing the FH1s at 40Hz (just to avoid wasting amp power on those frequencies ) and the subs low-pass is around 60Hz, using the subs internal filter; in my room the overlap it creates with the fH1 gives the most agreeable transition from horn mid bass to direct radiating subs.
Welcome Rolox! Excellent first post - nothing like relating your real hands on experiences.👍. I'll also be installing some 15cs soon in my FH1s and may take some measurements before and after. What about some of this 8mil "foam" self adhesive insulating pad on that horizontal panel?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KAD24RI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
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Sorry I haven't been able to contribute here as planned. My mom died yesterday at age 88 after a long decline into Parkinson's disease. I'm grieving her with my family.
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2 hours ago, geoff. said:
It’s at about 2:55 in the youtube video “biulding the klipsch lascala al5”
wow, that is quick. Looks like foam stuffing rather than any kind of panel damping. Just stuffed in there behind driver? Not attached to anything. While I have my FH1s apart I'd like to do any easy/prudent stuffing/damping/tweaking
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On 1/19/2020 at 1:26 PM, geoff. said:
Ok, let’s bring this one back to life
The stock Peavey drivers are without a doubt unbearable once you put in almost anything else. I have tried FH1s with K-33s, K-43s and my favourite - Kappa 15Cs. I wouldn’t even call the Black Widows low fidelity, more like NO fidelity.
Would really like to hear them with Faital Pro 15PR400s...
I tried to put Crites cast frame woofers in but the gasket is so thick on them the doghouse bolts weren’t long enough to attach the nuts.
@noviygera what effect did the (felt) damping have on the doghouse?
I have seen the Klipsch video of them adding damping to the new LaScala, but I have not gotten any quantitative responses to my other queries about it. How much and where for optimum effect?
Gotta find time to get the 15cs installed. I'm curious about damping the doghouse too. Link to Klipsch video? I watched 2 but didn't see damping.
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22 minutes ago, Rudy81 said:
As soon as I have some time I will run a series of sweeps at varying distances from the front edge. I want to run just the AMTs so I don't have to set the timing every time I move them. I will provide some pictures and precise distances for each plot. Unless you guys think I should do it differently, I will keep the mic in one position instead of following the AMT stack back. Does that seem like the proper way to do it?
I will do the same. Maybe we can standardize between our test setups somewhat. I plan to have the AMT test stack on the triangular Khorn bass bin cover pictured above sitting on the Khorn bass bin - no top hat - in the corner with several layers of thick fuzzy padding at the foot of the bass bin. What REW settings should we use on the AMT only? A test sweep from 300-20k? Bare walls in the corner and on the walls to either side of the test setup or some kind of absorption/padding? Test level? I'm using the UMIK-1 mic with 90 degree calibration file. What distance and height of mic?
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24 minutes ago, Chris A said:
Any measurements?
Chris
I'll make incremental progress evenings this week and see if I can get some measurements to you this weekend Chris since I'm still pretty remedial when it comes to interpreting/presenting them. Current plan is to tie the current triple hinged wings together with top, bottom and side plate assembly with threaded rod similar to Rudy's but with a hinged single back wing set in addition sitting on one of my Khorn bass bins.
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That last screenshot shows how to open or restore settings from the computer to the device - click Presets then click the radio button "Set Current Settings (File open as xdat)" You can then use the standard navigation window to wherever you had saved your files.
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Saving in the 30 slots on the device is certainly one way. I like to save to my PC.
PC like this:
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thanks for the explanation Chris
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17 hours ago, Chris A said:
...Additionally, I lowered the crossover point of the bass bin to midrange from the nominal 400 Hz to 280 Hz. The reason for this is not only the complex polar coverage of the bass bin above 300 Hz, but also the phase response of the bass bin inexplicably takes off, again in the wrong direction--as leading phase above 300 Hz.
Chris
Was this taking off of the phase response above 300 Hz not seen last year when we married the K402 to the Khorn bass bin and crossed around 450 Hz?
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3 wings right.
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HInged some together. 2 wing set.
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No wings "control"
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I had some rough tops I had cut when I had K402s on top of my Khorn bass bins. Thought they would make a serviceable base for this test rig(s).
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4 hours ago, No.4 said:
@Delicious2 I like your idea about extending the “wings” I am planning on building a test rig using the same setup as @Rudy81 to start with and get baseline measurements. The next step will be to extend the wings like you are planning. I am also considering making the initial wing on a pivot so I can experiment with the angle of the wings. Like I said previously I have plenty of sacrificial wood to use. I may try a curve as well if time allows.
Hopefully this weekend I will have the initial rig cut. I placed the wood on the table saw last night...it’s a slow process.
Isn't it great how sharing ideas sparks our interest and creative energy. I may start to build a test rig this weekend too or at least get some measurements for how it could come together. Let's keep supporting each other in this. Placing the wood on the table saw is a step in the right direction 😺 and a curve, well, waayy cool!
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Poor drawing but you get the idea. A test rig with a sliding base to vary that extension side and nesting wings to vary those.
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13 hours ago, Rudy81 said:
I am more concerned on how to seal the area where the wood 45 degree bevel meets the areas of the driver where they are indented. I think I have a good solution for that and will mention the result when I put them together.
Is this where you mean? Is it critical to get this as tight and seamless as possible? More generally I imagine a test rig that allows forward and back sliding of the driver/wings on the base and "stacked" wings that fold out for 2x and 3x or more lengths.
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On 2/19/2019 at 3:53 PM, Chris A said:
No issues with measurements or simulations. Just engineering knowledge of how stiff the horn should be...and the stiffer, the better. There are even some people that have used concrete as a horn material (but I don't recommend that, however, since it makes the horns into boat anchors--and they cannot be made in thinner sections).
No resonances that I can identify, but until I get a horn made and test it A-B fashion... The clamping of the horn's flange on the mouth end to the box gets about 95% of the issues. The rest of the story on thicker horn material is just good engineering practice.
Chris
Any better practices those of us that are getting close to building one should follow? Stiffening of the horn? Attaching woofers differently? Padding on inside of box surfaces needed?
QuoteQuoteMore on the subject at a later date. I just bulled my way through it using the tools that I have on hand. It turns out that the holes aren't that sensitive (unlike the dimensions in the throat area). I'm already working on more efficient ways to do it.
Chris
QuoteThe mounted woofers on their pads significantly increase the stiffness of the horn side walls when screwed down to the horn, but the top and bottom horn walls could use some extra stiffening. (I have a solution in mind already.)
Has any further development of the physical design been done? Thoughts on more efficient cutting of the horn? (not sure how you did it ) Perhaps some way to take a single "plug" out that would be relatively easily replaced/reversed. Perhaps a template file we could print out?
QuoteI'm using 3/4" MDF salvaged from an earlier piece of office furniture for each woofer mounting pad, with the woofers held in place by larger wood screws. The mounting pads are screwed to the horns, also using 12 x 1 1/4 wood screws top and bottom. That is a tricky part--tapping drill holes into the horn in the right places to anchor the screws.
Pictures of this? Suggestions on procedure?
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On 12/21/2019 at 4:45 PM, Ron E said:
I finally have 4 K402s, and will be making Chris's MEH very soon. I will be trying a boxless, and a boxed version with Chris's assistance.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Wow, I’ll be following this 4shoo 😸👍. I have all the ingredients to do them except the woofers.
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Glad it worked out same day for you Gary. It was fun to visit another Klipschee even more obsessed than me! That’s one hellova center you got brewing there 😸
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Just got off the phone with Gary. Look forward to seeing/hearing on Friday!
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Double Stack ESS AMT-1 with Wings--Possible Kit for Heritage
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Bare stack on Khorn BB mono in dining room nearfield with Chris' Belle/AMT1 settings on MiniDSP 2x4 HD.