JohnA

djk, The efficiency of the 1016 is shown at 92 dB/2.83V/1M. How do you get it to match output with the rest of a K-horn/Belle/La Scala?

Actually, this guy is in Nashville and runs the web site out of his house. He will not accept walk-ins. It is apparently not his day job, so you may have to call him at some odd hour.

LMAO!!!! Lynn, you are too funny!

I had heard on the radio your low temp for Wednesday morning was 97F. We've only had 3 or 4 days this year with the high over 90F. It's been a cool summer, so far.

JW, A preamp is even less than a receiver minus power amp. They only switch between inputs and control the volume. Some still have tone controls, but a preamp doesn't even have a tuner and mine doesn't have a phono section. Bi-wiring is running 2 speaker wires to each speaker from each channel of your amplifier. To do it, the speaker has to have 2 wire connections. One connection goes the the woofer only and the other goes to the high frequency drivers. The crossover is specially designed for this. The theory is that using separate wires for the bass and treble prevents powerful magnetic fields created in the low frequencies from affecting the highs. I don't know if it works and I've never been interested in trying.

Hey Marvel, If Klipsch really is selling 401s for $50 ea, you should jump on a pair! For future use, of course. That horn is one of the reasons it is cheaper to buy used than to build.

Are you HOT out there Doug?! Wanna buy some electricity, cheap?

We've never discussed a For Sale section.

Bob is correct. That's why I have 2 Subs. I used to call it wretched excess; now it's essential! I keep them set so the system doesn't sound like there is a sub in the room, though.

Anyone got any tips about how to check if I have any protection circuits/fuses that I can check before I throw in the towel on some of this gear...The LaScalas, if necessary, will be re-built. Try turning on the power amp(s). It they come on the the relays close there's probably nothing wrong. Smoke not withstanding, have you tried to see if anything works? As for fuses, you'll probably have to remove the covers and look.

I found the Type AL to be a bad sounding network. It rings and howls.

LOL!!! Oh Jim, The K-77-Ms are not AlNiCo. Your picture is of the -M "mud" version. What year are your horns? The switch to the K-77-M was in '78 or '79 or so. The difference in about 3 dB above 10 or 12 kHz.

Well Tom, This is a great day. I agree with you on OT pay! My company now pays no more than straight time to engineers and technical types unless we get more than 20 hours OT/week. It sucks and there is no incentive for the boss NOT to ask for OT. During one crunch, they wanted several of us to work, but would not pay for Sunday or Holiday work unless we put it on the timesheet for a non-work Saturday later on. I don't mind donating a few hours for the company's benefit, but to deliberately over book our time and only offer straight time is another insult. I've almost got 25 years in. It's hard to drag up that close to retirement! Our engineer's "Association" negotiated this pay scheme for us. I cannot imagine why. I get a blank stare when I ask.

I'd be wooried about how it would sound. Bridged amps are not usually noted for good sound, especially at the 1/4 watt you'll be normally running.

Te odds are high the crossover would require mofification. It would be driver dependent. The tough part would be finding a driver and horn that fits your cabinet.

No, .... Maroons! I cannot hear the difference between the K-77 and a K-77-M on normal program material, but some might. I might on unusual synthesizer music.

Terry, There was a thing or 2 about the Jubilee floating around if you knew where to look and remembered what they were supposed to look like. So, that project is still working, but in it's sweet time. Probably, most really new speakers take this long when they are different enough to get a patent. Being enthusiasts, we probably heard about the home version earlier than normal. Rob, It's not bad how anybody looks vs my imagination. It's a humorous comment on the images we create in our minds of what others must look like. I don't think I've ever been correct! I should not be surprised that we are all of similar age and occupation, but I am.

Mike's got it. There is no such thing as mandatory OT. No one can require you to work. However, if you want to work at Simon's Speaker Works, and keep working there, you will have to abide by the work rules Simon lays out. Of course, Simon has to agree to your work rules to keep you from leaving, too. If you two can't agree, drag up.

Jim, I'm sorry for your trouble. i'll pray for you. After this is settled, you need to move and get away from the CPS busybodies that keep doing this.

I was unimpressed with mine. They were completely stock. They were dead quiet and competent sounding. After an hour or 2, they seemed to get fuzzier sounding and never did have a clean, clear sound. I was actually relieved to put my Parasound 1203A back in. They have a strong reputation and the tweaker swear they are great.

One type AL, hot and steaming!

You should like the RF-35s, they're impressive. I have never heard your center, so I don't know how it would match.

Dean, The impedance of any component is the DC resistance plus the AC reactance. So, the DC resistance of an inductor increases its impedance and causes a loss of voltage to the driver. That wastes power and reduces driver output, not always what you want. If there is an inductor in a circuit that sees low current flow a smaller wire can be used and higher resistance tolerated becauses the losses will be low. However, that resistance makes the circuit behave a little differently than the equations predict, so you need to keep it as low as practical.

I rebuilt my Type AAs with all Hovland caps (they were different and I wanted them to be identical; long tale). I used a 6 and a 7 uF cap in parallel for the squawker. The results on the tweeter were immediate and good. The change to the squawker caps were not clearly audible. Hovlands do not need to be bypassed. Replace the woofer inductor with a good 12 or 14 ga. air-core inductor; 2.5 +/- 0.1 mH is fine. For the tweeter cap, use a 3 to 3.3 uF cap on the tweeter; 3.3 tests nearly perfectly at 5800 Hz. I recommend you search the BBS for the 1st order design brother did for his La Scalas. I've heard it several times and had it tested in a lab. It sounds great, clean and articulate, and the crossover points hit nearly spot on at the 400 and 6000 Hz design points.