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JohnA

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Posts posted by JohnA

  1. A passive radiator is a substitute for a resonant port.  It has the advantage of also limiting the woofer's travel below resonance (protecting the woofer from very low bass notes).  Do not change or modify it.  Do not remove it, the cabinet volume is sized to use a passive radiator and will probably be too big for the woofer if you remove it.  Adding a second active woofer will require a cabinet with double the volume of one with a single woofer.

     

    If you want deeper bass, add a good subwoofer (sound lower/under a woofer).  If you want louder bass, move them closer to a corner or add EQ. 

    • Like 2
  2. 16 hours ago, CWOReilly said:

    Line level is different than phono. Phono has less “strength”. 

     

    Very much untrue.  "Phono" has much more gain and a built-in eq for the records.  It boosts bass and cuts treble to compensate for the eq cut into the record (so the stylus can stay in the grooves).  The OP's post sounds like he already has it plugged into "Line".  

    • Like 1
  3. Yeah, look for a universal player. I am well pleased with my Sony UBP-X1100ES.  You should find DVD-Audio a treat, if you haven't listened to one.  Call Paducah Home Theater, they should treat you right.  Wouldn't hurt to mention this Forum when you call.   

    • Like 2
  4. On 1/22/2023 at 1:25 PM, MMurg said:

    After admiring all the lamps in this thread, it occurred to me that after my single Belle project (can't discuss it here) that I have a single K-500 horn that's now begging to be turned into a lamp.  🙂  For those of us that don't have a friend who can turn an adapter for the horn throat, any suggestions on what a relatively unskilled person like myself can do to adapt the horn throat?  Thanks.

     

     

    Unless you really live in the sticks, any machine shop can do it for little cash.  Take the horn and/or a driver to match the thread. 

    • Thanks 1
  5. I would go all 12v auto or marine gear and use auto electronic crossovers.  Some of the amps have crossovers inside and many of the head units have digital delays built in. 

     

    You can use inverters to turn 12v into 120v, but you lose some power in the conversion. 

     

    Car batteries parallel easily for longer service. 

  6. Yes, I dropped the taps on the T2A, so the response curve is flatter (reduced the rising response by 3 dB).  The result is the woofer at 94 dB/w/m, squawker at 95 dB and the tweeter at 96dB.  My center floats in the air above the TV without much wall reinforcement, so I like the subdued squawker and tweeter better. 

    • Like 1
  7. The tweeter should be 7.5, the squawker should be 12 - 12.5 and the woofer should be 6-ish, unless a K-22-EF and it will be 8.3-ish. 

     

    I had a K-77 tweeter with loose terminals that didn't always contact the voicecoil leads.  Manipulating the tweeter often gave good DCRs, until I noticed the terminal moved. 

    • Like 2
  8. Were they mine, I'd replace the caps in kind on both, convert the Type D to "E" and replace the K-52-H with a K-55-V.  If the crossover schematics are no longer on the Forum, send me a PM.  If you can find 2 solder terminal K-55-Vs they are all the better. 

  9. I did that to my center channel Heresy so it matches my Type AA La Scalas as much as practical.  The Type AA filter EQs the driver a little, but the Type E network compensates for the K-77s response hump well enough and the auto former protects it well enough, too.  You may not notice much difference. 

    • Thanks 1
  10. 14 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:

    I’ve got a little G48 which is a nice sized carry piece but it feels like a cheap toy compared to the Beretta M9 I bought from Marvel when he brought the LS up to NC.

     

    As you'd expect, a Beretta is a nice piece of kit!  Blocks have their place, though.  😄

    • Like 1
  11. On 1/29/2022 at 7:35 PM, Curious_George said:

    It was a compromise between blown tweeters and sound quality. It’s a known fact the tweeters were (are) delicate. Perhaps the threshold could have been a bit higher so the distortion would not begin until a higher wattage. 
     

    Newer technology performs better such as poly switches, but they are not the final answer. 
     

    I personally prefer the right light bulb. 

     

     

    The K-77-M is substantially more durable with a 10w cont. rating.  In a home setting they are not at much risk so you can defeat the KLiP diodes.  I would not recommend that for Pro Audio. 

  12. Nice find!  If you keep them, you'll want them on the floor and just a few inches off the wall or corner to get better bass from them.  You can expect them to need several days for the woofers to loosten up and make full bass output.  Ultimately, you may want a subwoofer, too.  Many of us do. 

    • Like 1
  13. I have one and I don't know how you'd do it.  My phones, etc, won't pair to 2 devices at once and have no provision to separate channels.  It does have an aux input, so you might be able to make cables to send each channel to different Grooves.

  14. There were probably more raw birch Heresy Is made that any other.  Since the "finished" H Is are also made from plywood, there should be no difference in sound. 

     

    MDF cabinets may not be as strong as plywood, but are strong enough and non-resonant.  Better to buy the sound you like in the condition you want and ignore the material.

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