Jump to content

JohnA

Heritage Members
  • Posts

    5906
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by JohnA

  1. The DC resistance of the K-33 should be 3.2 to 3.6 ohms. John
  2. It should be 3,500 Hz to 17,500 Hz. However, based on the response plots I've seen of the Heritage line, I'd call it 3,500 to 15,000. John
  3. Ross, Yes, I did it to my front La Scalas to the squawker opening. I went to Home Depot and bought their heaviest self adhesive felt and cut it into 3/4" strips. I stuck that to the edges of the plywood where the squawker horn "looks" through. I disassembled my tweeters to front mount them; don't do it, get Z-brackets! It's been so long I can't remember how it affected the sound. I don't think I did that much for the squawker. John
  4. First try lining the openings with heavy felt. Front mounting the tweeter will be a nice improvement, but the Heresy has a sealed cabinet and the seal is very important. The Cornwall, while ported, is not supposed to have leaks either. John
  5. You cannot adjust the impedance of an amplifier after it has been built. If you could it would likely not change the way your speakers sound. Not getting too technical, your amp is rated to put out some number of watts into an 8 ohm speaker. It does not have an 8 ohm impedance itself (more like 0.05 ohms output impedance). As the speaker's impedance gets lower the amp puts out more power until the thermal limits of the transistors are reached or the power limit of the power supply is met. Then the amp clips or the thermal protection circuits operate and probably shut the amp off. More than likely the minimum speaker impedance for your amp is 4 ohms, so you are in good shape unless you try to run 2 pair of speakers. The impedance would be half of the impedance one pair would be. Even then, the amp will not be damaged unless you insist on pushing it hard and making it get too hot. John
  6. I doubt the bass driver from the KSW-10 was relabeled and put into the RP-3. They may look alike, especially since Klipsch makes most of its own drivers now days, but thee is surely a difference that justifies the new number. That said, a bass driver can be placed in any box design if the volume is adjusted for its new role. The K-33-E in the Cornwall is a ready example. The Cornwall is ported abd the K-horn, Belle, and La Scala are horn-loaded acoustic suspension designs. John
  7. Rope caulk cannot hurt the horns and it is removable. You'll have to try it to see it it will work. Use at least 2 layers mashed on firmly. Your cabinets were not designed to have "insulation". Adding it will change the tuning and will likely make the bass softer, with peaks and valleys in the response. I cannot predict where or how bad the peaks and valleys will be. Try it and see if you like it. The "insulation" will not affect the horns. John
  8. You will not increase the power going to the speakers. You will be wasting your time if your speaker cables are already large enough. John
  9. If you have the round (AlNiCo) magnet tweeters you can swap them for the rectangular magnet T-35/K-77-Ms and get smoother more extended highs. If your squawker drivers have spring-clip K-55-Vs, you can change them to the solder terminal K-55-Vs and get smoother response between 4k and 6k Hz. I can't hear the difference, myself. I'd wrap the squawker horn and tweeter horn in several layers of rope caulk to damp the horns and I got an audible improvement in my La Scalas by replacing the capacitors with Hovland Musicaps from madisound.com. You might consider changing the woofer inductor to a Solen "Perfect-lay". Other than that, you already have a great speaker. John
  10. Speakers and amps DO NOT need a break-in. Turning the treble on your preamp all the way up could have easily overpowered the tweeter. In addition, turning the bass all the way up could have easily caused the bass notes to clip, even with a 220 watt amp. Clipping generates HUGE amounts of high frequency energy that kills tweeters. Go to Rat Shack and get a sound level meter and use it to keep from clipping your amp. 220 watts is 23 dB louder that 1 watt. the loudest you should be able to get the system, on peaks, is 123 dB at 1 meter from a speaker. BTW, that's insanely loud. If you stop turning it up at 113 dB on the meter at 1 meter away (with no bass or treble boost) you will be relatively safe. Stop at 103 dB, or so with the boost on. John
  11. It sounds like you're turning up the volume too loud and activating the tweeter protection. One side of the amp may be a bit louder than the other, or one tweeter protector may be more sensitive than the other. I'd say what you're doing is bordering on abuse and you should not turn the volume up that loud any more. John
  12. There HAS been a recent degradation in the demeanor of the BBS lately, but it has come from a very few people and I don't think it has gotten serious, yet. I still see the "Old Timers" posting and I visit at least once a day, so I think most of the core of the BBS is still active. My posts have become less frequent in the last few months because I see fewer questions that I have answers for. It seems I am learning about other Klipsch speakers other than the Heritage Series I have. John
  13. http://www.alkeng.com/klipsch.htmlGo here for a great replacement crossover network. I don't know which network came in "84 K-horns (Type AK?), so I can't provide a schematic. If yours have Type AKs and they are essentially the same as Type ALs, you should replace them soon. There are construction plans available from Speakerlab and the easiest place to get them is from Ebay.com. You can find specifications on this web site. John
  14. There should be no downside at all unless your speakers' impedance is low AND you try to push the amp section too hard. Then, you should expect the amp to shut down before it is damaged. John
  15. The diaphragm for the K-77/K-77-M/E-V T-35/E-V T-350 can be bought in the U.S. for about $23. Many here have replaced them themselves. I have not, but it's not supposed to be hard. Go to a Pro Audio shop and ask about getting the diaphragm in a T-35 replaced and see what it'll cost. $100 is too high in the U.S. Klipsch will do it for $77. Blowing a tweeter in a La Scala with it's tweeter protection circuits in place indicates the speaker has been pushed too hard (or the attached amp has). Unless some other part has failed, I wouldn't worry about damage. Replacing the other diaphragms or reconing the woofer is relatively inexpensive, if one of those parts turn out to be damaged. The squawker diaphragm is about $55 and reconing the woofer in the U.S. is about $75. John This message has been edited by John Albright on 09-30-2001 at 12:50 PM
  16. Neither the LSI, nor the standard La Scala is in production at this time. You'll have to buy either used. Technically, there is no such thing as a "Home" La Scala. La Scalas were made for pro use either in clubs and theaters (what you call the home version) or for touring, the LSI. There were at least 2 configurations of the LSI, one and 2 piece. All of the LSIs I've seen pictured had handles. All were black with corner and edge protectors. I use 2 pair of La Scalas in my home theater, but they take up a lot of room and the rear pair is purely overkill. I *could* be persuaded to sell those. Your CE2000 is generally too powerful for one pair of La Scalas. Maybe if used to power 2 or 3 pair, it will be about right. If you use it, you will have to be very careful with your gain controls and prevent clicks, pops and squeals from feedback to keep from smoking some of the drivers. John
  17. You need to ask this in the Promedia forum. This is a home audio forum. John
  18. The RSW-15 has the guts and output to keep up with any of Klipsch' main speakers. It was more than enough to keep up with the Jubilees (108dB/w/m?) at what must have been 110 dB or more on the peaks when we watched The Matrix in Hope (it hurt). The system had Jubilees as mains, a Belle as Center and K-horns as rear surrounds, each channel has a 200 watt power amp; the gunshots were breathtaking! John
  19. It's a phase plug. I believe its ultimate effect is to smooth the response of the tweeter. I don't know whether the RF-7 should have a visible one of not. I'm sure it has one, but it may be deep in the driver behind the "bug screen". John
  20. I believe the HIP is a ported Heresy I for the pro market. The ones I've seen look to have the same drivers as the HI, except for the woofer. I'll bet that 92 dB rating is at 10 feet, too. That would make it a few dB louder than a normal Heresy. John
  21. It's difficult to know what to say. I'm still in shock and disbelief. I feel sorrow for the victims and anger at the perpetrators. It IS time the U.S. starts kicking somebody's butt and I'm not sure we should care about "collateral damage"; the terrorists didn't. Pray for the souls of the dead and families and rescue workers. John
  22. I'm glad I went, too! And just in case I forgot to say "Thanks" to somebody: Thanks a lot for the help organizing it (I could never have done it alone) and thanks for the great hospitality you gave us all! John
×
×
  • Create New...