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JasonJCarney

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Everything posted by JasonJCarney

  1. So I'm fairly certain I'm doing this right but just to idiot proof myself ill confirm with you guys. This is a DVC.... 8 ohm per coil sub. So to get it wired in 4 ohm load I connect the pos to pos to pos and the neg to neg to neg.
  2. I also sit about 10-11 feet from my speakers. They won't overwhelm if you don't turn them up too loud. Probably work best for a large room but will fine your room.
  3. I appreciate your attempt to help. However your LP hanging off a wall is.... Well unique to say the least and may not quite help explain "corner loading" for my THT. It does look cool anyway.
  4. I Agree that at a certain point you can't notice a refreshrate difference. I've watched sports on both these sharps. The difference is obvious to me. One blurs a trown football (120hz) and one doesn't (240hz). The 65 inchi have in my bedroom blurs a bit as well. It's not a deal breaker if the price is right. But if this is going to be your HT tv I would assume you want the best picture you can afford. The sharp's, IMO, are behind other tv's in picture quality no matter which model you get.
  5. Last time I checked that $2k sharp 70 was the base model without quattron and only 120hz. Sharp has 4 70 inch models I believe. there are 2 120hz models one with quattron and one without. Also they have 2 240 hz models as well. Costco is selling the 1st down from the top of line 70 for $2500. Its 240hz and quattron. Bestbuy sells the 80 inch sharp as well but it's basically just like the base model 70 except for the size. BTW if you have not seen the 80 inch sharp yet.... it is just sooo much larger than the 70. I saw them side by side at best buy in CT. Not sure why they don't sell the 80 in 240hz though.
  6. I do the exact same thing. I need my center channel bumped up.
  7. I have my mains at 60hz right now. My canter at 70 hz, and my surrounds at 80hz. I honestly think placement and power are my issues. I won't have much time to play around until after the 28th either.
  8. Your right Gary I never mentioned it. I have audyssey set to 80hz on the sub low pass. Perhaps I should move it to 100hz?
  9. By what right and at what frequecies? Im not sure what your talking about here. The M-282 puts out 125 watts at 4 ohms. There is no external volume or gain control on this amp so I am assuming it is set to full gain. I have the DB level control on the 3008 sub out set to +12 (highest). So all that said I assume Im getting 125 watts You've got to actually measure the voltage. You can't measure the watts in this instance, and you definitiely can not use your ears. Wait until you get that multimeter though, then all of this will start making sense. You'll measure the AC voltage present at either the amp terminals or the posts on the jack plate on the side of the sub, and the really good news is you won't have to remove the cover to do this. How do you have your subwoofer connected to your Onkyo?? Is it just running off a random channel, or are you running multi-zone and patching the sub-out back into the second zone channel(s)? I have an Onkyo M-282 amplifier. I run RCA from the subwoofer preout on my 3008 to the left channel on my M-282. Then speaker wires from the left channel binding post to the sub. 28V is what the THT will take. That voltage across a 5 ohm load is ~150 watts. So as long as you stick with an amp that's rated to put out an honest 150 watts into a nominal 4 Ohm load, then anything else is money to the wind. A single channel of your Onkyo might even be up to the task. When you start attaching some numbers to what you're hearing, you'll be ready to get rocking. From skimming over the user's manual, I see that if you get your Onkyo set up just right, you may find you may not even need to buy an external subwoofer amp. Im not even sure how you could run a subwoofer from the actual 3008 amp.
  10. Well I really only have 2 choices in this room. Here are a couple pics so maybe you can see a possible issue with my placement. It sits under the staircase to the right of the main seating position. Here is the main listening position (pre tuba) for reference. Its an old pic but that is the right surround area ...and this is the left surround area under the stairs So I can have the port facing the triangle notch of the stair case as in the above photo. Or I could turn it around and have the port facing the rear wall but I wont be able to get it 18 inches off the wall. I really could only get it about 6-8 inches off the rear wall. I did try both directions and iot didn't seam to make a difference in sound quality or output.
  11. Hey Johnny, Sorry to read that the 62's didnt workout for you. I understand as my HT is small compared to most and most of my speakers dont get exactly the perfect spacing that they should. Could you possibly take a pic of the new surrounds? Im assuming the one pic of a surround on page 1 in this thread is the g-28.
  12. ok....so to check on the woofer I need to take off the access panel right? Assuming thats good... how do I check for air leaks on the panel? I seriously doubt there are leaks present but you never know. I had an air leak on one of my A5's but that caused port chuffing not less volume. I will try moving it around the room to see if that changes anything as well. Unfortunately if the current placement turns out to be the issue then it will have to go. Either to the bedroom or my friend. My HT only has the one spot for it. Honestly putting a cabinet that is 36x36x24 off the corner 18 inches basically precludes it use in all but the largest of HT's. [:|]
  13. my room is 17 x 12ish x 8 with a staircase in it. Not big. I'll grab a multimeter after my work week.
  14. I was looking at that but I can't seem to find reliable RMS power ratings for it. Plus for the same price the Emotiva is a know entity and I think 350 watts would be suffient. I guess the EP is not out of the question as it could provide more power but I would need to see solid rms ratings before a purchase. Anyone know where I could get more info about the actual power output on that amp? I am putting 125 watts to it right now. It does give off some decent bass but I have to set my Onkyo to +12 on the sub level cal to get it. I am running 2 A5-350's as well and they don't like to be at +12...I basically have to almost shut them off at that level to have them sound normal. I may move the Tuba to the bedroom or to a friends basement HT. Although with the output Im currently getting I wouldn't feel comfortable reccomending it to my friend as his basement is quite big. Also this is the driver that is installed in the Tuba http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-190
  15. The Tuba I picked up from Gigbyt. Im running a bit underpowered at this point (125 watts) but Im in search of a dedicated amp for it. It has a smooth sounding bass compared to my A5's. It's hard to describe but it justnot as violent at the A5's. I think I'm really gonna like it but I need to to get full power to it and decide if it's gonna be loud enough in the 1 space I can actually place it. If not I have a couple options to move it to a friends house or to my bedroom! The cool part is that it's so big it could be used a a large night stand (our bed is kinda high). A nice wood stain and it'll look great. I don't doubt that it can attain some major DB levels as it was pretty loud just in the center of my room. It weird though for music. Doesn't seem to put out even average db's for music. My A5's destroy it (even just 1 A5) during music. HT is a different story.
  16. RefHead, I like that stand. The front part of your room really looks nice.
  17. first I would like to thank everyone for all the help. I have kinda narrowed my choice down to 2-3 amps. I originally didnt want a plate amp but it is looking like that is going to be best bang for buck. So these are the 3 choices: 1. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-807 upside is price and options downside is that its a plate amp 2. http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/upa1 upside is I know emotiva and like the products downside is only 350 watts rms and no filters 3. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-811 upside is rack mount and options downside is price and reviews about actual power are a bit off
  18. Meh.... Maybe I'll just set this thing a blaze and end my misery!
  19. This is really only half DIY. The cabinet and sub were designed and picked out by bill fitzmaurice. The cabinet was made by a professional cabinet maker. The onkyo takes care of the signal. All I need is a plug and play highpass filter. I'm not looking to eq the crap out of this thing. It's sounds good as is to be honest. I just want to throw more power at it than I currently have available and add the HPF to keep the driver safe.
  20. I was looking over the minidsp website. It honestly seems like a time consuming nightmare. I'm not into programming anything at this point. I can't believe there is not a plug and play filter out there somewhere.
  21. So the minidsp is plug and play and acts as a highpass?
  22. So short of getting a plate amp (I don't want to do that) how do I incorporate a highpass filter
  23. So I need an an amp with a high pass filter or a minidsp? I'll look that up now.
  24. Could you explain further please? Why would I want a high pass filter? The only thing I really need is a low pass filter which the onkyo provides.
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