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leftwinger57
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Posts posted by leftwinger57
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Hey guys , personally I think today's FM actually sucks and hardly if ever listen to it. I get most of my sources from my Yamaha RX-V665 AVR. That being I-Net radio, I-pod dock and it's rotation, t.v..and CD if not going analog through the NAD. I have tried FM w/ the 75ohm adapter and get reception but it's the content that sucks. I do have a 2 chl system where I take audio out from my AVR to tuner in which is a NAD 1020a pre/amp and the only source not from the AVR is of course my JVC a-200 tt w/ a Grado Black cart. I know this is not the thread to ask this but I'm looking for a pre/amp on the cheap that has a working remote and seem to be very hard to find. Not that I'm all that lazy but I already went through an Onkyo P-301, a P3150V, a Dynaco Pat-4, and an overly complicated Sony es-2000 processor w/ using the preouts becomes a pre/amp. any leads would be appreciated..Lew
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GOT IT NOW. CLICK ON A DUDES ICON THERE IT SAYS SEND A MESSAGE.Not the most computer literate person your dealing w/ here.
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Now that I utterly embarrassed myself thinking this was a p/m .Could someone PLEASE clue me in how to p/m on the for sale site. Do not hate or ban me I just don't know how and there is not a sole to ask.
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Hi SKI BUM, I finally figured out how to access the p/m section of the forum.
I'm still very interested in your NAD C-116 pre/amp. IF we could, since I live off the gov't dole $200 at one time is not happening. if there is shipping it also adds to my grief.
Could you take a U..S..P..M. order hold on to it and then by May should be covered. I live in New Jersey 08859. There has been no movement on the device and already down to page 6.I could use it mostly because I had a NAD 1020a and loved it but no remote. The C116 has every input and the all important remote. Think about it. there is no scam your holding the cash and by any chance did the offering price bump a bit or is shipping gone away ??
Leftwinger57 to the forum, Lew to you...
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Hi Ski Bum, The NAD C-162 really interests me. I used to have a NAD 1020a and loved the thing. It was very musical, sensitive and had all the inputs I needed. After coming from Onkyo P-301 and another Onkyo P-3150v both having remotes and motorized volume controls. Now I'm using a Dynaco Pat-4 ss pre. I've been on the site for ages but for unseen difficulties had to re register. I live in central Jersey 08859 and would like to know where if the stars align was coming from. Is the off handed 2 bills a firm price ?
If not mentioned Leftwinger is the s/n and lets go by Lew.
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Over at the Polk Universe they swear by Locktite adhesive, It dries clear and gives off no offending gases. Gorilla Glue will work also. Silicon not very good as a wood adhesive. I used Liquid Nails on my 2B cabinets w/ the proper caulking gun so I got it in all the seems and had clamps and left them alone for a few days and w/ the new gaskets a cockaroach wouldn't last more than a minute or 2 w/o air. I also did the good old pressure test and my mids came back slowly after 4/5 seconds which is right in the middle.Some say longer, some say much longer and I don't believe them 10 seconds no way.
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I'm sorry but I find it very hard to swallow that you complimented the guy who worked on your Marantz and yet your still having annoyingl little problems. The case being after market,your ok w/ that but a loose screw on the antenna(not important enough) and then the tuning needle or cord needs to be moved by hand by taking the face plate off?. Sorry but your asking top dollar for not such a sought after or higher wattage 22xx series still w/ problems and marginally restored. All of that should have been fixed when you sent it in or I would have sent it back. It was opened to do the recap and LEDs why not the tuner? Heck I just bought a 6065 Nikko w/ 34 watts cira '76 in near perfect shape w/ a composite wood case green difuser and has fm pulling in power I haven't heard in a long time.Yes your Marantz is worth more but not by that much w/ what's wrong w/ it .Tuning is a major part of those amps and I would toss it out the window if it did not go across the band as it should. Fix all of it or call it a project w/ some minor hurdles
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I had the very same problem w/ my Yamaha RX-V665 .This is rated 90 watts I guess 2 driven. My speakers at the time were and still are Klipsch #500 h/d smalls. When I was thought was a very powerful avr and went to air it out as I put it the thing went into protection mode and shut down. Thankfully it came back. I immediately called Yamaha and they said you pushed the speakers to hard and should not do that. I called Klipsch and they really laughed and said those smalls could handle true 100 watts and it was the avr. This really pissed me off so I went out and got an Adcom gfa555 amp and for a while used the Yammy as a pre/pro. Long story short todays avrs are not made to drive major speakers at top levels w/o an amp period. I have also gone full blown 2-chl w/ all sorts of sources and while using the Yammy for tv it's at -30 or so for volume but mostly audio mute it and use the audio outs into my pre/amp tuner ins to get all the sources for full blown effect.
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If in good shape and not in need of and upgrades internally 555s uaually go for $300 all day long at all various sites.The original are more covetted than the mk11s so yes it's a good price ,again if they both work as advertised.I have a 555 rack mount face and they are built like tanks mine does not get even remotely warm when even pushing multiple sets of speakers which I do not do but I had to try it. It's a worthy 80's amp.
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Over on the Polk site they were saying this co. from New Zealand were giving away free sample packs of what they call Black Discus.Your supposed to place the disc on top of the + speaker out on your amp and anywhere else you might get stray emi from. After a few weeks mine came and they were solid ReesesPieces looking black things. I thought they were foam but no they are a ferrous type of material.It comes in different sizes and gives you placement ideas. They want feedback on whether it works or not and not owning golden ears to begin with I'd be the wrong guy to ask.Nothing detremental happened and I applied mine using ty-raps.
No affilliation I think he goes by the name Mad Scientist.Bob I believe
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The last show was Leon Russel opening for Hot Tuna.First to open was Leon who I haven't seen in literally 43 years since the big weekend at New Paltz was a bit disappointingl.He played mostly 40ish type songs like Swinging In My Sweet Baby's Arms ,Georgia on my mind and stuff like that .He did not wake up until he did a mini medley of Delta Lady,Papa'sGot a Brand New Bag,Jumping Jack Flash ,and Kansas City. 40 minutes and he was gone.The venue I had never been to before was a great looking old timey grand dame of a theater The State Theater of New Brunswick N.J.The sound for him sucked just like the old days were the warm up act got the short end of the sound and this was really old school stacked black boxes on the sides of the stage and not the hanging line arrays you see and hear everywhere else.Tuna comes on and starts w/ a few acoustic numbers but then starts to sear w Jack as ringmaster for tonights show. The sound improved 10 fold and they were very good w/ no 3rd guitar only Barry doing the Mandolin and the other wacky looking string stuff.Jorma was on as usual smiles were all abound and they seemd to be having a great time.I like the Count Basie Theater much better both for sound and intamacy but nothing beats a theater and Tuna as always keeps their ticket prices down.Had I known they are playing the Beacon next Saturday and generally play a 2 night 2 stop a year gig there.The Beacon , while opulant is a great place if you can afford it but getting into the city is a hassle and adds to the expense of the night.
Not used to this new format.Leave for a few days and the world just flits on by
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I was cruising C/L and saw an add that said these are the military version of the 5.5 towers. Now while I never served I do know that PXs do sell all sorts of audio gear for serviceman and women but I never heard of a miltiary version of a speaker.Is this true ? If so how many different models were made and then you wouldn't you have a confused puplic on what exactly are these speakers if not fully aprised where they came from.
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This is really where Ohm's law applies .The very abridged version is the more the lenght = more resistance ergo you need a lower gu wire to counter that effect. Yes I know there is way more to it but I'm not going to c/p or Googling the whole deal right now.You guys can look it up....
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Mustang Guy, your spot on,do to finacial constraints I subscribre to the Rodger Russell spkr wire therory.If the run isn't to long 16 gu lamp cord zip will work .I didn't quite go there but if the former lead designer and engineer at McIntosh w/ all his patents and degrees says that I'm w/ that guy and drink his Kool Aid.I do believe that if it sounds good to you that's all that matters and keeping up w/ the rich Jones' does not work for me.My main run to my Polk SDA 2bs is14 gu jacketed w/ a spred of 7' w/ almost an equilateral triangle to my seating position.All other speaker sets and H/T are w/ my world famous 14 gu clear.
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One other point on wire gu and quality. According to the famed Rodger Russel former head engineer at McIntosh for years and an inventer in his own right actually says 16 lamp cord is fine of course if the run is long he would defer to a lower gu of wire but does not subscribe to very expensive boutique speaker cables and elavators.
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You don't get it , they were moving not having a freakin garage sale. She was hesitant at 1st because she was going to dump the stuff and not show it it at all .You don't like it.
KISHMEIRINTUCHOUS.........
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If it was lightening strike did you if fact check every appliance in your house. I say this because as a former alarm installer I saw what a direct hit can due to a house and ALL it's internals. 1st hit was a roof skylight which blew out then it traveled looking for gnd along the electric or Romex runs in the house. Microwave,garge door opener, tv,every contact and alrm panel just fried. The fire dept was there w/ thermal cameras to see if there was anything in the walls burning .Lightening is no joke.
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It's not pride she also could have no said VERY easily I have my own financial difficulties and I have to fight my battles the way I can. Seems like on C/L people look up what their stuff is worth and bargins are harder and harder to find.You try living on dissability then we'll maybe on equal terms.
How bout answering the freakin question.
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When my post appears you will notice I had the same problem. Mine were on the dark side soI asked advise from a Polk Club member who just happens to be a wood worker as a profession.Ther are some steps and need to be followed in order. This of course is depending on how severe the stains are and mine were.
1.Use chemical stripper to remove any old finish and varnish.2. Steel wool using 00000 gu 3.After dry apply Oaxalic wood bleach on primarily the stains not to wet saturate the batch so not to warp the wood.(carefull the dry crystals cause sneezing fits) 4.Vacumum off then tack rag clean. 5. Sand to your hearts content w/ 150 grit or higher sandpaper then lower the grit till that baby butt feel.6. Again tack cloth clean then use finish of your choice and after that use either a satin or gloss poly.
I just did my Polk SDA-2bs w/ Light Oak tops and now they are Walnut...... be very careful
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Hi guys, a few weekends ago I stumbled on a moving sale and this woman seemed pretty desperate to sell off her remaining stuff. I get there early and ask do you have any vintage audio gear something that you wouldn't even know what it is and she said her husband passed and did have some gear.First she showed me a pair of Ohm c I think w/ stands but they had rotted surrounds which wouldn't be all that terrible because I have replaced surrounds already and at $10 I was going to grab them. She then said in our family room I have these big old speakers and my heart went a twitter. These were the vaunted Polk SDA-2b w/ IC cable. The only minor cosmetic problem was the obligatory plant water stain on the White Oak tops.I offered $50 she looked perplexed for mili second then said take them.I 'm also a member of Club Polk and congrats were coming in by the page full .Now the question at hand. I'm running an ADCOM gfa-555 and pushes them w/ no problem.When I told them I was using 14gu clear for a 4' and a 9 ' run I heard w/ both barrles from these guys that 1. I must upgrade to a much better cable and 2. for continuity of signal both lenghts should be the same no matter how close 1 speaker is to my amp which again literally about a foot away but I do have more for access and cleaning.I already called various cable co. and I'm getting so many mixed answers my head is spinning.Some said if it sounds good to you don't bother,no golden ear don't bother.Others say you MUST upgrade and you will hear a difference so now since I am a minor member here I'm also asking for opinions on what to use or not to do anything.Oh,this was an audio pickers dream house she also had a giant Onkyo receiver, multiple tt, nice racks and lps that were in good shape but all the album art got wet and was destoyed to the point they were sticking together.This was the exact scenario I always needed, desperate wife ,no idea of what anything is worth and needed to flip quickly...
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The only idea that I can come up w/ has already been suggested. If you do have a soffit under the roof line and is not way to high have installed them there.Having been a former alarm installer and w/ people insisting that they wanted nothing on their stucco finish we hid sirens and did pre-wire and then eventually hung speakers that way .At the time we were a Bose distributor and used a set of Bose outside speakers and found a header and screwed the bracket to that .For the siren we cut a form fitting hole and flush mounted it.
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I also bought a lot of stuff on C/L. I'm in a financial situation that forces me to buy used .I got so far a pair of JBL- j 2060 bookenders for $20, ADC 303 ax $35, DCM TF 350s $125. Most other stuff not including my H/T or Adcom gfa555 I got from Good WILL or garage sales. Who ever said try out 1st is absolutely the way to go w/ speakers anyway unless they are advertised as damaged goods looking for a rehap project.....
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When I got my Bose 601s they were sun bleached and put away in an attic for years. When the guy was bringing them down I knew what they were and saw they had all 4 woofers rotted $20 later I cleaned them ,refoamed them and on to the cabinets.No woodworker here but the drift wood look didn't work for me so I did a litlle experiment.A very light sanding I used Olde English polish and what came out was a very living room presentable piece.After that dried I used some bees wax and shined them up.I finally did sell at a nice litlle profit and the work was both theraputic and rewarding at the same time.
Sold: Niles and Adcom Speaker Selectors
in Garage Sale
Posted
The Niles does not except low gu wire. I do own a gfs-6 and can get 12gu into the twist lock ports plus it has a protection circuit for use of multiple sets of speakers . something else the Niles is lacking. Sorry to say $50 is high for the Adcom . They go for $30 all day long.