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nyt

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nyt last won the day on January 2

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  1. Peter, I don't know if this will help you that much, but here is a video going from volt meter to spl meter at my LP, which is 15' from the mouth of each sub.
  2. Crossing at 40hz is a waste, bump that shit up. It will be way more efficient / more headroom down low than your khorns. I just decomissioned all my klipsch speakers, new pics in my sig link, crazy how much more efficient, and working great with the THTs =]
  3. ..... no I'll be keeping the KSB 3.1 as my rears since space is limited. I MAY eventually replace my surrounds, but I see no reason to at the moment. I can't wait to get this stuff =] Interestingly enough, the KSB 3.1's are the first klipsch's I ever owned. I bought them a good 15 years ago when I still lived with the folks =]
  4. Nah, I still have my SS-1 surrounds and my KSB 3.1's as rears =] I'd love to hear the 4722N. I've always felt like the CornScala (or more like a CornJub) is like a clone of the 4722N. It must rock! On the other hand, you will be leaving the Klipsch fold...
  5. nice, I can't wait to see the pics of these all together. Bondo works great for speaker enclosures if you're painting them =] it will shrink, best to use bondo. or even wood filler =] I ended up using bondo. It was the first time I ever used it. That stuff is awesome! There was a slight learning curve in the mix ammount vs dry time, but once I got that down it went great. If you close your eyes and run your hand across the side that I put all the screws in, you can't feel even the slightest variation in the surface at the screw holes. It feels like a solid piece of undrilled wood.
  6. seriously. pics! =] it's nice to see how builds progress. speaking of builds, JBL is building my new fronts and center channel! =] I'm gonna have to find something to do with my RF83s/RF64 as they're getting replaced by 4722N's and a 3677 =]
  7. I didn't bother with the angle, but keep in mind the plans were originally for the tempest / dayton DVC, which has a taller gasket. You can see the space here. I also came a bit closer to my t-nuts. and another pic showing the dvc drivers
  8. Yep, I just filled that side better. I didn't feel like messing with filler and sanding and stuff around the gap for the panel and all the screws, so the side by the panel is a little ugly. It's hidden so I was like screw it =] I used a bunch of filler on the rest of it and sanded it smooth before painting. This is after the first coat, pre sanding.
  9. There is only an access panel on one side. It's not necessary to have one on each. I didn't have any problems installing the driver with access from only one side. I used hex bolts. As for the number of panels per sessions, The only time I had to stop due to glue drying was on the lip for the access panel to make sure the glue set flat and smooth. Basically, I put the glue down, set the piece, clamped it in place, then used a ton of nails to hold it in place. Once the nails were in, the clamps came off. It's tricky clamping pieces in place with the glue making them slide around and creating a mess, but that's basically the fastest way to go. It was tougher since I used 30" panels. You'll need a lot of clamps =] Looking at your pictures, it looks as if you didn't use any fasteners on the second side at all. Is that right? Also, how was getting the driver installed with only one access hole? Not too bad? How mant panels do you guys installin one session? Only one until it sets? or more as long as the clamps of the previous work don't get in the way?
  10. filler will show up a different color most of the time when stained.
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