JCole

Down - Stone the crow

Going to be awkward when in the next film Batman gets caught with Robin in the shower. Same thing happened to me when I had my Michael Vick themed Doggy Daycare.

Mike I figured you for a "Sex in the City" kind of guy. Its the best movie.

MCACC doesn't do Subwoofer EQ. This means that some frequencies could be too hot and some could be too low, and there could be variances from seat to seat. while you can't hear a sub 20hz frequency, a note at below 20hz with lots of spl will certainly give you an interesting sensation. It is more feeling than hearing.

I am staying with a friend while out of town right now. He has an active 3d samsung led. I had it on for about 10 minutes yesterday trying the 2d-3d mode, and I got motion sickness. I can cope with 3d in the theatre, but I think active shutters cause me disorientation. I tried a passive setup before, but I didn't like that either, I could see horizontal interlacing going on. With a 64" tv, if you sit close enough you could have it pretty wide in your field of vision, duplicating the movie experience.

I think that the Pio elite's ability to deliver clean output to normal speakers is without question. However, The RF-7's are not normal speakers. They dip down below 3 ohms. If you were going to cross them over at 80hz, then the Elite would probably be fine. However these are RF 7's, you didn't buy them to treat them like a satellite speaker. You want that in your face fidelity that the big woofers have to offer. So I would suggest crossing them over down at 40hz or so. If you want to play them fairly loud, close to reference level, I don't think the Elite can deliver on it's own without some distortion on peaks. My suggestion: Consider a receiver that does lower frequency EQ, such as the Onkyo 709. It is stout enough to drive your surrounds. It has Audessey XT, so it will EQ your low frequency and subwoofer. It also can be had for under $500, leaving you with much more budget for some good amps. I wouldn't settle for "HiFi" seperates. Go for something with some balls. The Crown XLS Drivecore amps are stable down to 2 ohms! Buying two of them will give you 4 channels of amplification. You can power your 2 fronts, a center, and have a spare channel to run a DIY subwoofer if you ever decide to build something like a Tuba HT or DTS 10. As for subwoofer choice, my preference would be a Rythmik sub, either the F15 or FV15, or perhaps 2 FV12's. These are known for digging deep, down below 20hz but are also known to be some of the "fastest" subs around so they get great reviews from music listeners. Warning: I own neither the RF 7 nor the Pioneer Elite. Just spouting off my opinion.

I think I might go to 3D once I make the jump to a projector and can get a movie theatre like viewing size. I personally don't enjoy the "looking through a window at 3d stuff" look that you get from a TV's viewing size.

While I think the pre-made stuff is too expensive, the guy who does the realtraps stuff seems pretty knowledgeable but also down to earth. Check realtraps.com in the how to section.

Yes that's kind of the reason why reducing the mic volume is a bad idea. Audyssey is giving you that answer to get your out of their hair, since they programmed audyssey with some hard values that they can't offer a solution for. It's funny to me that Audyssey thinks it's perfectly fine to give you a solution that blows you out of the room if you listen at anything other than reference volume. Lets also hope that the volume control doesn't add a delay, or change the frequency response of the mic by adding in a random variable resistor. At this point you have no idea if the frequency response, delay, room acoustics or any other calulation is correct, AND the levels are not matched to the MV display. One solution could be to cut the trim levels for your inputs, and then hope that Adyssey doesn't over-ride those while doing initial level matching. If it DOES, I would look for a different solution as you're paying for all these audyssey calculations and getting none of the benefits that you could just as easily get with an SPL meter. If you have pre-outs I would consider driving the front soundstage with a cheap amp that has adjustible gains. You could pick up a used behringer or crown amp for $100.

While I don't think I would use them for a music system, their advertised specs indicate they would do well for their size in a home theatre. they reach down to 76hz (-3db). I don't 100% believe that claim, but if true they seem good for a satellite system.

FLAC, MP3 and most other compression formats have more dynamic range capability than vinyl. In 24-bit depth, Dynamic range of digital is around 140 or 150db. Vinyl is somewhere closer to 80db.

I did a google search for "synergy vs reference" and it came up with a bunch of links to this forum. In more than one thread it was mentioned.

I did some more reading, apparently the RF3's have the same components as later model synergy F2/F3. If that is the case, I'm really only upgrading about 1.5" diameter worth of woofer. Can't see that making a huge difference as I cut off frequency at 80hz to send to the sub. I'm kind of hoping to be talked into this deal, but if all I'm doing is trading 1 year old speakers for 10 year old speakers, that doesn't make sense. It would be nice to say I have reference stuff instead of synergy stuff though.

Ad states: "Complete set of Klipsch speakers. Like new, black, c/w manuals. 1 pair RF3 towers, 1 RC3 center; 1 pair RS3 rear, 1 KSW12 sub woofer." I currently have a 2 year old Synergy setup. Assuming the speakers for sale are in good working condition, would they be a better speaker ? I figure I can sell my Synergy setup and break even. I would keep my sub 12 and sell the ksw12.

Did some further reading... Found this link through somethingawful's "Ridicule Audiophiles" thread. http://www.matrixhifi.com/ENG_contenedor_ppec.htm Interesting that more people chose the "shitty" cd player, cheap amp and 15 foot 7/11 bought rca cables than the $12,000 setup.

A cd player is a CD player. Zeros and ones are read from an optical format and then sent either to a DAC or through a digital connection to a DAC in your receiver. To imply that one CD player sounds even slightly different from another is to imply that a cd player is somehow reading 010101 as 0110101. Or thatr the DAC is somehow using a very different and inaccurate algorithm. In my opinion, "Audiophile" cd players and blu-ray players are complete snake oil. I would love to see some double-blind test results from cheap players versus pricey players.

I would agree with the pricing except I am in Vancouver Canada, and the higher end klipsch stuff is rarely found used. This drives up the value a bit in my opinion. Is the RC3ii a decent center channel in a mix matched setup ?

I can get an RC3II for $150, and the KG3.5's for $150. = $300 Or someone has Polk Monitor 70 plus CSi3 center plus a polk 10" sub for $440. I've been reading the bass extension on the polk monitors are the shits. Plus they're not as sensitive, even though they have 4 woofers. These are for my parents who're running an older pioneer amp that does 100watts with 2 channels driven, and less with 5 channels. Room is roughly 2000 feet cubed. Mostly action and drama movies, sometimes 2 channel music (probably more with new speakers). Obviously this is a klipsch forum, but are the KG3.5's a better speaker ? The specs indicate they go down to around 40hz. Reviews for the polks say they drop sharply after 60hz. They already have a 12" sub. Their 60 year old ears probably wont notice the unmatched center.

I wouldn't waste money on AMPS from any home theatre company when you can get Crowns for dirt cheap (compared even to emotiva) for more wattage and stable to lower ohms. I've seen Crown XLS 402's (300w per channel @ 8 ohms) go for $100 for refurb units on Ebay. At that price you could drive an entire 5.1 system for $300. Or you could go for brand new Class D XLS models and still drive 6 channels for $600 give or take a bit, with a lot more wattage than the typical home theatre amps. In my opinions, the 125 watts from an Emotiva amp isn't enough for something like the RF7's.

Here's something confusing: On my Pioneer's on screen setup, I can set the speakers to large or small, but with either setting, I can still control the crossover function. I assume this is so that if I have the fronts set to large but the surrounds set to small it will set a crossover on any channel set to small right ? Ok so on the flipside, if I set all speakers to small, and the crossover (bass management) to 50hz, will the receiver still send LFE discrete stuff to the sub ABOVE 50hz ? or would that now get filtered off ?

OK so currently I have my speakers set to small, and my receivers sub crossover set to 80hz. I have fairly large f2 towers that have no problem playing down low to around 45hz or maybe lower. In this alternative setup, would I set my speakers to large, and the receiver crossover to 120hz or leave it off and set my sub crossover dial to 120hz. Right now the sub amp crossover is wide open.

This entire read is confusing. It's basically suggesting the opposite of what this forum usually suggests for crossover/bass management settings. 99% of the replies I normally read go something like "THX spec is 80hz. Set it to that and leave the Sub's crossover wide open" Could explain a little further, or perhaps clarify ? I read it over and just don't "get" it.

For me, excersize is self punishment. Therefor I need punishing music. I can't listen to anything fake or light weight like Korn or Drowning Pool (lol!). Down - Lifer Down - Bury me in smoke Rollins Band - What's the matter man SuperJoint Ritual - Death Threat Anything by Crowbar Some of the faster paced stuff from Type O Negative Carnivore Anyways, some may not like this sort of music, but if your music doesn't leave you feeling like you've fought a battle, it might be time to switch it up.

To be honest, I can't tell a difference between the synergy line and the comparible sized reference line. I've auditioned f2's and f3's vs the rf 62 and 82's in a home theatre demo room with a switch to flip back and forth. Blu ray live concert material, h/k $2000 receiver, and I could not tell a difference other than the different speaker locations. The reference series might be better up near reference level, never got them that loud. But for normal Home listening I can't justify the extra $$$ on the rf series. I agree that on paper, the rf's are a technically superior speaker.

The more power, the crisper, more detailed and more responsive your speakers will be. Just because it's 200 watts per channel and your speakers are only rated for 100 (or whatever) doesn't mean it will blow the speakers up, it just means that you don't have to twist the volume knob as far to get your desired listening level. More power does reduce the risk of damaging the speakers from maxing out the amp.