WMcD

Go to HD or Lowes and see what you can find that is not made in China except maybe lumber and paint.

I highly recommend a temperature contolled (not variable temperature) soldering station. About $100. I have a Weller but Hakko is also recommended by by others. Over the years I have used a half dozen lower priced irons and I consider them dangerous for projects because of the potential to over heating or under heating. When you buy a kit, ask the manufacturer whether I'm correct. WMcD

I believe this thread has drifted off course. Let me use small chunks of information. Sorry if it simplistic. Ya gotta understand the basics though. Sorry if the following is too simple and complicated at the same time. It is very possible that the tweeter is burned out. This is to say the wire windings have melted in a small section. The wire in the coil is finer than a human hair. The tweeter is capable of absorbing only about 2 to 5 watts continuous power despite specs that the system as a whole will take 100 watts. The mid driver might take 40 and the woofer 100 watts. Know that you don't have to have done anything very naughty to blow a tweeter. The tweeter wire is wound around a tube which is mechanically connected to the diaphragm. This is perhaps why people say the diaphragem is damaged. Essentially this is true of all drivers. This is winding is called the "voice coil." Voice coils sit in a magnetic field caused b the permanet magnet of the speaker. Current through the voice coil makes a magnetic field which pushes and pulls with force to move the diaphragm. The moving diaphragm makes the audible music. It is a bit more complicate than grade school of winding wire around a nail and picking up paper clips but that is the general idea. We want to test whether the coil has melted in a section and thus causing an open circuit. If no complete circuit, no current flow, no magnetic force, no movement of the diapragm and no music. But there could be a loose electrical connecton. About which more later. We are though trying to determine what is going on deep within the tweeter at a microscopic level by using a multimeter (ohm meter) connected to feed wires. Testing or listening for acoustic output is well done with a listening tube. However. You should know that these tweeters as filtered by the crossover or not really sound tinny and that is because music above 3000 Hz sound like that. Testing electrically is the most classic and reliable when a burned out voice coil is suspected. Use an ohm meter. which is part of a multimeter. This is really sending a direct current or zero Hertz signal to whatever is connected to the ohm meter probes. This may seem strange. We are testing a speaker by feeding a 0 Hz signal to determine whether it works at 3000 Hz and above. Actually the ohm meter is just detecting whether there is an electical path free of gap(s) in the wire. We actually detect the d.c. (direct current (zero Hz) resistance of the coil. This is usually about 5 ohms, 8 or 10 ohms is good too. A burned out winding measures "infinite ohms" which is what is shown on the diplay when the probes are not touched together. Maybe OL on the digital display. Older and newer meters will show 'infinite in their own way. Actual electrical testing. You should go to the crossover screw down teminals. Turn the amp off of course. The two wires connected to the tweeter should be seen and please note which wire (red stipe and another not). goes where. Take a picture or make a drawing. Disconnet both (not technically necessary but lets keep things simple). It is a matter of backing off the screws about a half turn. Righty tighty, lefty loosy. The "spade lug" (U shaped) should come free from under the screw head. I see no reason to mess aound with the tweeter driver end and that end is usually soldered. Now, connect or hold the ohmmeter probes to those two wires / spade lugs. If the voice coil is good, you will see on the meter a reading of 5 to 10 ohms or like that. Also you will hear a mild scratching sound from the tweeter. This sound is because the meter, through the probes, is sending a little current into the tweeter. The tweeter is trying to make a bit of music. A good sign that is can make music. OTOH: You may well find that the meter is showing OL still and there is no scratching sound. That is just about proof positive thatthe voice coil is blown, ie melted. Note: Sometimes over age the screw down connection at the crossover has corroded or loosened. Just snugging up the screw will cure that. Do it for all the screws while you're in there. There is some traffic above which is showing the measurement of the overall speaker "impedance" at the input terminal to a driver or box by the constant current technique. While intersting it is certainly not necessary to determine whether you've got a blown tweeter. Sorry if I've said too much or too litle. WMcD How to test acoustically? Yes, the improvised stethoscope with a paper towel roller works.

Yup: As fathers have passed down to their sons for centuries, Righty tighty lefty loosy. Liquid Wrench gets good reviews. I would put the assembly with the big end on a table and squirt some in there. Wait overnight. Are these the aluminum horns? Perhaps the aluminum corroded a bit.

Please consult a professional. These are potentially lethal insects unless they are honey bees. You're being nice to think about relocating the hive but this is like relocating a nest of rattle snakes. I was stung just below my right eye by a yellowjacket when I was young. Maybe I had tried to brush it away but they are agressive. My face was like pumpkin. Had it gotten to my eye I'd probably have lost it. You can read plenty of stuff on the internet. There is already a chance a queen has established another hive near you. The reproductive rate is phenomenal. Listen to Jeff (thanks Jeff). These are killers. WMcD

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I get it. When a child fails to act like a responsible adult, the solution is for the adult to act like an irresponsible child. WMcD

Of course I agree with Preston Tom. If you don't have a multimeter, you need one. If you don't know how to use there is a lot of how-to s on YouTube. Generally, at the tweeter teminals you should get a reading of 10 ohms or so if it is good and you'll hear some scratching noise from the tweeter as you apply the probes. If it is "open" meaning burned out you'll get a reading of infinite ohms. (Maybe OL.) Whatever you get when the meter is set to ohms and the probes are not touching. In theory you don't even have to disconned the wires. One good move is to back off the screws on the cross over about one half turn and then snug them down. The tweeter is the driver of the three which is the most delicate and will take 2 to 5 watts continuous. Failures are common. Check if Bob C will replace the diaphragm for you by mail. WMcD

In Goldfinger, Bond slips out of bed to get some freshly chilled wine out of the fridge. He quips generally that drinking the wine above a stated temperature 'just isn't done. It's like listening to The Beatles without earmuffs.' Then Oddjob gives him a neck chop. Ha. In a forward persupective, Sir Sean was there dumping on Sir Paul and got a neck chop. Who would have thought it. Best line by a mature Sean in a movie: "She talks in her sleep." WMcD

Looks good. An issue is the condition of the cartridge and stylus. But even at the seller's price the budget should have funds left over for a replacement. OTOH it appears to have had TLC and those are not particulaly wear items. WMcD

IIRC this fellow reviewed the LaScala and called the K-401 the Eiffel Tower horn. Mouth down on a surface there is some resemblance. WMcD

Bacon, bacon, bacon and scrambellos. WMcD

I think you should gather information. It is my understanding that at the factory they made, of course, walnut veneered H1 and if there was a flaw in the veneer (probably even a small one) they'd spray them with black lacquer. OTOH some H1 were birch raw. IIRC these had butt joint and the ends of the ply was not covered with a band of veneer. The previous owner might have started with these. It is quite possible that he used a latex paint. If there is still a serial number sticker it reflect how the speaker box started life. The point is that the underlying veneer might be birch or it might be walnut. The paint might be lacquer or or it might be latex or something else. What can you tell us, please. What you have will dictate what advice you get here. I hope others will comment. WMcD

I had my Forte II in an office of about the same size. Sounded great. WMcD

You might need a sewing needle or very small screwdriver from an eyeglass repair kit or computer repair kit (jewelers screwdrivers). BTW, these are plugged because of some European Union regulation. in some countries over there the connections to the power mains are the same spacing and size as our banana plugs. I have never seen a report of anyone boloxing up the connection sceme, though I suppose you'd get 50 hz bass for a fraction of second before a voice coil blows. OTOH there was a story on the internet long ago about how a fellow in the USA used standard extension cords and blade connectors as speaker feed wires. (It must have seemed like a good idea at the time.) Eventually the inevitable happened and he inadertently fed 115 volts mains into the output connectors of an amp. "Burnt parts rained from the sky for several day." Or so is the tale. WMcD o

A friend from college was headed to NJ from Brooklyn after dropping off her son at school. Her husband and son were able to calculate where she was driving at the critical moment. She reports being just at WTC and there was a terrific explosion and a landing gear boggie crashed a few feet from her van. She threw open the doors of the van and shouted, "Is anyone going to Brooklyn? People piled in. It took about 8 hours to get back to Brooklyn. Her husband and son didn't know if she was okay until she got home. I think she deserves a medal for evacuating survivors. There are doubtlessly many similar stories. God bless all these people. WMcD

Nope, you guys are nutzo. Pineapple will never match with the earthy tones of wheat pasta. No one has done pinapple and spaghetti. No fricken way. Ugg. The best 'unknown' way is shrimp, a mild cheese, olive oil,and a bit of garlic. WMcD

A very very long time ago I used tissue paper and Duco cement. Dupont Corporation's glue was advanced stuff back then. Now I'd use contact cement aka rubber cement from HD, or bathtub caulk aka RTV, or the glues for speakers as sold by Parts Express. But let me suggest that a cloth patch to reinforce would be good. I'm thinking a small piece from a retired necktie or a lady's slip. Incidentally. I bought a small bottle of rubber cement at Walgreens. It is a bit gelatinous and can be thinned in the bottle with naptha. HD will only sell a pint of naptha. So I went to the local headshop and bought a little can of Zippo lighter fluid. I still felt like a criminal and/or someone from a Cheech and Chong movie. Smile. WMcD

Agreed; this is the wrong section of the forum. But before you select a section of the forum let me suggest you describe the issue. 1) If you have the tweeter (actually the driver and horn as a unit) and it is not working you might want to replace the diaphragm/voice coil assembly. Try the technical section. You'll get advice in large amounts. 2) If for some reason you don't have the tweeter as a whole (with driver and horn), and want a new or used assembly as a whole, go to the garage section. WMcD WMcD

I was thinking about a test to compair matching by ear in real time without additional expense. You could put the boxes next to each other and then use amp's balance control to pan back and forth. The problem with this is that you're hearing left versus right program (which are not identical) and so if you have a choice of mono, that would be best. Another way. If your amp has A-B speaker swich you could hook up one speaker to 'A' left output and the other to 'B' left output. Then switch between A and B speaker sets. and listen Again with the boxes next to each other. Of course there is nothing magic about 'left' and you could use 'right.' My guess is that they will sound just about identical in either test. These tests would certainly reveal a blown driver in one box. BTW, that is a nice photo of the innards. Perhaps a potential buyer would question why the Heresy commands a higher price than speakers which appear similar on the outside and have inferior sonic quality What we see in the Heresy picture is very serious engineering, cost be danged. WMcD

I had a similar problem with the Volvo. The filter would not budge and it was slippery with oil. So I drove a big screwdriver though it thinking it would create two handles to twist. It did but twisting it only shreded the sheetmetal housing of the filter. I thought I should have left the filter in place and could at least drive the car. But then I wrapped a cloth towel around the remains and it gripped the shreded housing very nicely indeed. WMcD

Yeah, I agree with most of the advice above. The issue is that even though the system on the disk got messed up, the data is still on the drive. It is not too difficult to take out the drive and use an outboard cable system. Microcenter is my favorite source for such hardware. Connect the old drive to your other computer to look at the content of the messed up drive. Very likely it is there. WMcD

There were some humorous comments on the forum about Roy owning an airplane. IIRC, PWK owned a Twin Bonanza. Per Wikipedia the back seats are accessed though a door on the right side. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beechcraft_Twin_Bonanza Could it be that PWK favored this aircraft because he could load speakers into the back seat area? WMcD

Is that correct that the Forte II had a rubber surround? I don't recall that on mine. I had to sell them, which after all was not really necessary. WMcD

You might consider the Fletcher-Munson curves. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour These show that even average ears need a higher acoustic level (phons) to perceive low freqs. Therefore by these standards everyone is hard of hearing at low freqs. Let me suggest you try some in-ear headphones, I have a pair from a cell phone purchase, to try the tones on the link which was posted. I can hear 30 Hz without problem on my laptop in a quiet room. OTOH this is where many big speakers are rolling off in acoustic output rather quickly. Therefore speakers have falling output and ears have falling sensitivity. It is a losing battle down there.