mike stehr

Naw, Bose is Better than that. That's a buncha old stuff. Klipped and Impotent.

The 1968 440 wedge and 426 Hemi Darts were built by Hurst Performance to be used in NHRA drag racing. Chrysler assembled the basic chassis and delivered the cars with engine and drive train separate. Hurst modified the cars for racing prior to installing the powerplant and drive line. Modifications included lightweight glass, front seats, fiberglass fenders and hood, radio, heater and rear seat delete and relocation of the battery to the trunk. The 426 Hemi used in the Super Stock Darts was not the 425 hp street Hemi. The Street Hemi was rated at 425 hp with a 10.5:1 compression ratio. The Hemi in the Dart was a more powerful 12.5:1 race Hemi. They only made 80 of them. WRX? They make a buttload of those. Here's a Canadian who doesn't feel the same way you do about American Muscles Cars, Matt. http://www.gearheader.com/0004/dandy/dart02.cfm This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-04-2002 at 04:50 AM

The world record is 196.? dB., 48 Cerwin-Vega subs in a Ford van, somthing like that. But why? You can't sit in the the rig and listen to the stereo, without ear muffs or some hearing protection. You'll either Puke, Sh*t your pants, and lose your hearing. What has this got to do with enjoying music reproduction? I got into it too, but I didn't do Rap. That Whomp Whomp Whomp,Boom Boom Boom, it's always the same, hasn't changed in over ten years. Like Ears posted, It's just WOOFAS and WHEELZ. (And Clown Exhaust Tips.)

WOW! Cool link, Justin!

Okay, so how do you upload a scanned drawing? I can only convert it to bit map to either GIF or TIF. It either uploads GIF or JPEG, at only 75k limit. Can you insert the Image through the 'insert image' box,(the one with the pic) by inserting that Address you brought up on your last post for a Email recipient? You bring up a Email box, put in the address mentioned, and send it to this post? I'm PC challenged, but I would like to figure out how to post a scanned drawing. YEEHAWW!! IMG]http://216.37.9.58/ubb/image_uploads/AdapterS.GIF[P>Man, I give up! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-03-2002 at 11:09 PM

So that would be a copy of a Western Electric Horn?

Good to see you got the woofer problem corrected. That is a screamin' deal, you gotta admit it. Now you can roust up some more JBL tent sale goodies and build a pair of two-ways to go with the subs. Or another sub cab for each two-way. I think Tom mentioned a two-way speaker on the tent sale site. It seemed like a screamin' deal as well. Then you could really Piss off the neighbors! (How long will this tent sale last anyway?) THANX!

Bose is so great.

Okay, the '95 Chorus II's have a K-61-K 90 degree x 40 degree midhorn. It's a 1.5' Phenolic compression driver. What benefit if any would there be if you used a 1.5' Titanium diaphragm in place of the phenolic diaphragm? Or does ferrofluid play a factor between these two diaphragms. Could you use the Titanium diaphragm and magnet assembly with the 90x40 degree horn? Curious. THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-03-2002 at 03:57 AM

Money I'd rather waste on music. I don't know what the price of a Mighty Mic is.

Well, it sounds like your set. You even have some options on plugs. Magnum Man uses a 12volt power supply, it has the switch on it, and a breaker on the back. They are a little black box, like I have. With screw terminals on the back. I think once you figure out what your freind is using for a 12volt supply, I would go with a cigarette lighter case raided out of a car or something. Then you can wire it to the supply, and just plug the cigarette adapter on the light to the lighter case. Then this won't ruin the adapter, and you could use it in your car if you still wanted to. I don't know how this will come out These are boxes with red x's. I give up! I can't post a image for the life of me!! ARRRRGGGGGHHHHH! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-03-2002 at 03:34 AM

Then my 16/46 Carpeted tubes should be just fine in a Trailerhouse. Had a amp in mind for the subs, but I guess I got my income tax in September from Bush. Well nonetheless, I plan on getting a amplifier for the SVS's and have a active crossover kit so I can roll them of below the Chorus II's. But I am enjoying the Chorus's just by themselves. THANX!

Beat's me why they quit making them. But I have a pair of Black '95 Chorus II's as well. I was fortunate to pick up a pair at a thrift store on the AFB I work at, under $300. Somebody's wife didn't accept these, bless her little heart, Poor guy. They had a couple problems, he wasn't too nice to them. But this is like a once in a lifetime thing for a guy with my income. I would be listening to 30 year old Sansui's otherwise. They work well now! I also got his Yamaha MX-1, CX-1 amp and pre for $100. Maybe not the right amplifier for the Chorus's, but for a hundred bucks?! Some say the Chorus/Chorus II's are the last of the cornerhorns. I don't know, I just discovered Klipsch about 6 months ago, and am quite happy.(And grateful.) THANX!

Oh great, they have the fuse right at the end of the cigarette lighter adapter. I would go with the Radio Shack wall wart that has the 300, 600, and 1000 millivolts ranges. When you get it, keep the bill of sale for it so you can return it if you have too. Don't cut the plug off of it, see if you can use some alligator clips, or just straight wire jumpers. See if you can use jumper wires somehow to attach to the power supply plug, without cutting it off. Then take the hot wire and attach it to the fuse somehow, and the side clips on the cigarette lighter adapter, without soldering. Then see if the wall wart will run the light/lights. If it doesn't, then you can take the wart back, get a refund and go from there. If it works, you can solder the hot wire right on the end of the fuse, and the ground on the clip. Or you could get a cheap plastic fuse holder from your local automotive place that's the right size. Use the fuse holder and fuse in the hot path, and just wire ground to the supply. The fuse holders are white, some of the higher rated ones are black,( a higher temp rated plastic). This way you can replace the fuse easy. Or you can find a Cigarette lighter,(The case, not the lighter) either raided out of a car, or automotive supply places could have them where the fuse holders might be. You can take the cigarette lighter, wire the hot to the supply, and the ground to the outer case. Then you could plug the light in without ruining the adapter, for maybe future car use. Most fuses have the 250v rating on them, I don't know about that, a rating I guess. The fuse is for 2 amps, the light cannot exceed two amps or it could die, It may, It may not, that's why the fuse is there. Save a few bucks and maybe get a good 12volt Radio Shack power supply at about 10 or 20 amps down the road. You could run many lights off it, and run a modest powered car amp off it. Not to mention for troubleshooting, they're a great little bench tool for anything 12 volts. Good luck!

It's a good thing you have a basement. I think that's about as close to REAL theater as it gets. It makes me wonder why in the hell I bought them SVS tubes in the first place. I don't do much HT anyway, and my Chorus II's have pretty decent bass for music. Oh well.

Justin, keep in mind that 1000 Milliamps is more amperage wise than 10 milliamps. Milliamps is amperage measurement below 1 amp. You would have to stick with 12 volts, 6 volts might make the light work, but it will probably be dim if it lights at all. Does this Light have a 8 watt bulb? Can it be replaced? Did you see if the fuse has a rating on itself. (That fuse keeps too much amperage from smoking the light,BTW.) Okay, I have a 8 watt, Flourescent 12 volt drop light. This is probably a lot like what you have, minus the color. I also have a ancient Radio Shack 12 volt power supply. It puts out 2.5 amps. Some of these power supplys are rated at 13.8 DC volts. Don't let that bug you, it's just the realistic rating with 12volts DC and electrical circuits relating to vehicles. I think 14.1 is max, after that, most vehicles are having a electrical problem of some sort, resulting in a overcharge/voltage. Anyways, the light runs fine off the 2.5 amp 12 volt power supply of mine. I only have one, so I couldn't daisy chain them. So I think you could try the wall wart you mentioned. But it would be nice to know what amperage that light takes, but the drop light I have does not indicate this as well, just that it is a 8watt bulb. Are you talking about the Radio Shack wall wart, that has varible setting's on it? You will probably have to cut off the cigarette plug on the light, or bypass around it with wire. But leave the fuse! It's there for good reason. You could just then directly wire it to the supply, or configure a male/female plug setup. I think these Flourescent lights are of low amperage, so they may be well be under 1 amp in the milliamperage range. So I think you should not have a problem with the variable wall wart you mentioned. This would be a good idea, especially if you plan on using more than one light. You have the option of increasing the amperage. I think all you can do is buy one and try it. Make sure it is 12 volts, and leave that fuse. Maybe Magnum the coffin subwoofer Man will chime in. Nice speaker stands, BTW. Pick your own colors Justin, that's what makes us individuals. Dare to be different!

You've been telling everybody that the vintage Cornwall with Tube amps is the best thing since sliced bread. Now you want ideas on how to mod them?! Or is this just a curiousity issue? THANX!

Cool! Looking forward to it. I don't know if you've checked the guts of your Rega, But if the unit has the high quality audio grade capacitors inside, that's probably one reason on long break-in. We know the story with Rubycon Black Gates. Yeah, I know you do the site design for Kevin P. You do a excellent job, BTW. A long way from Milkman Dan, I must add. THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-02-2002 at 02:07 PM

I think that pathetic Black Metal band Venom actually did put some release's on K-tel records. 'Welcome to Hell' a great album for all ages.

You might be getting more bass due to the that very fact you posted. Standing waves? There is a thread on that. You should be good to go. I know the water pump thing, My little truck dumped one about a month ago. The one I replaced it with, had a bind in the bearing, and squealed when I first got the truck going again. It made it about two weeks, the bearing gave out, and the impeller started flopping and caught a peice of the gasket. The coolant was gone quick. It had a warranty, and I replaced it the parking lot I bought it at. (Let them clean the coolant mess.) I think your safe, at least your not out of a sub. THANX!

Are you going to check this unit out against the Rega Planet? Mobile? You will have to report it on the BB. I think from digging around in the AA archives, that Dan Wright tweaked a Samsung 709 DVD player once. My next step is the Power Supply, Hexfreds, better PS cap, maybe some bypass caps. It's cheap fun. BTW, the link you post does not show anything regarding the player they tweak or the service they provide. I think there is info in there? If and when you do Review the Player, make sure you throw a CD in it, hit repeat and then come back in about two or three days before you even seriously listen to it. Yes, I am a firm believer on break-in, especially source units. This may be a moot point, but I recently purchased a Panasonic RP-56 DVD player. When I first threw in a DVD movie,(Exorcist) the video quality was grainy, a little choppy, and kind of rushed. But by the end of the movie, the video quality had improved, things slowed down, matched up and looked great. Could this be a effect of break-in? Don't ask about the analog audio quality, it didn't improve by much, even after a week. The Samsung sounds better. BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH..... This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-02-2002 at 03:56 AM

What's the Amp rating on your 12 volt converter, Magnum Man? So Justin can get a idea on how much amperage he can get away with, and how many of these lights he can run. I'm just wondering if one could run two or more lights off a cheaper 10 amp 12 volt converter, or would have to maybe jump up to a 20 amp converter. Justin's looking for a 10 amp Wall Wart, I don't think they have them in that high a rating. You might have to buy a 12 volt converter, Justin. To get that high of a amperage. All the wall warts I seen where in Milliamps. (I seen them up in the 2000 milliamp range, but I have no clue what 10 amps is in milliamps.) A 12 volt power supply has many uses. You could use a car battery to use for now, as a temporary fix. Uninterruptible Power Supplies for Computer's could be a option, but you would have to make sure it puts out 10 amps, and you would have to charge it. For the price of a bunch of Wall Warts you could probably be into a good 12 volt AC/DC converter, anyway. I hope this isn't discouraging. THANX! This message has been edited by mike stehr on 02-02-2002 at 02:34 AM

10 amps? Have you found a AC to DC adapter that is rated at that amperage? The thing is, I'm not sure if you can find a Wall Wart in this high of rating amperage wise. I've got nothing better to do, I'll reveiw the posts you linked to this thread, check out the lights,(If you have a link in those posts) and scrounge around the net for a Wall wart or something that is ten amps and won't cost a arm and a leg. (I can only read and dream about Themionic devices so long on other Forums.) The Purple ones sound cool. I'll see if I can help out.

Upset the Neighbors?

http://www.gti.net/wallin/audio/audio.htmlScroll down a little bit, he talks about the Radio Shack SPL meters and the differences.