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Antone

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About Antone

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    Electronic -, Automobile-, Small Engine-, Woodwind Instrument- Repair, General Mechanical D I Y
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    Restored Hafler DH 110 Pre-amp with Recapped DH 112 MC Phono Stage, Restored Hafler DH 200 Power Amp ,1981 Klipsch Heresy II's, Refurbished Hafler 220 Power Amp, NOS Stax SR 30 Electret Earspeakers, Technics 1200 Mk 2 and recapped D2 Turntables, Ortofon X5 Moving Coil Cartridge, Audiotechnica AT 33 EV Moving Coil Cartidge, Ortofon OM 30 Super MM, Denon DL 160 MC, Schiit Bifrost 4490 DAC, Restored Nakamichi BX 100, Recapped Proton 440 tuner

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  1. Yes , billybob, There are some major differences this time. I port -tuned the enclosure to 50 Hz, lowering F3 by around 20 Hz-no port previously. I chose this latest driver based on its compatibility with the Heresy cabinet, heeding T/S parameters. My previous woofer, Dayton series 2, was 4 dB less efficient and made for a much larger box. My graphs show flatness I could hardly achieve with a 31-band EQ before-no EQ needed now. Consider my posts from years ago superseded. This upgrade is based on much greater experience and measuring instrumentation I did not have before.
  2. Still learning. 🥴 Telling the truth about the results and thought process, though. This upgrade is relatively cheap and easy, and the graphs are much better than stock. I wanted to share my modest success.
  3. Thanks, glens,😁 I put that badly. I just wanted both crossovers as equal as possible. 😬😉
  4. Thanks, carlthess40, I am no carpenter, just a professional symphony musician who likes to fix things and solder. The ports are not pretty, but they work fabulously. The xover I hardwired point to point with 18 gauge solid and stranded wires, keeping the lengths between the two xovers the same, so that both speakers’ signal paths were equal in length.
  5. Hi, This last upgrade with the Dayton Audio PA 310-8 woofers is by far the best I have found. I just posted graphs and the xover schematic a few minutes ago under the same topic title. My previous upgrades were judged by ear with little knowledge of xover circuits, T/S parameters or proper test equipment. Take a look at this latest post from noon- ish July 27th.
  6. Here are the RTA and Spectrum Analysis Graphs of the measurements resulting from the modifications described in the first post in this thread. Bear in mind that these readings were not taken in an anechoic chamber or outdoors, but in my listening room, well away from the walls.. All horizontal graph lines are 5 dB apart. These graphs have not been edited. These measurements were taken at less than a Watt of drive power. The Dayton Audio UMM 6 measurement mic and REW software were used on a Toshiba Windows 7 laptop computer. At 2.83 Volts of pink noise the result- not shown here- was 101 dB at 3 feet, 100.4 dB at 1 meter. The first two graphs are RTA of pink noise at 3 feet, with 1-octave smoothing on the first graph and with one third octave-smoothing on the second graph. The third graph is spectrum analysis of white noise, with psychoacoustic smoothing. The final graph shows pink noise RTA with one octave smoothing, locating the mic at the listening position. The crossover schematic responsible for these results is included.
  7. I have discovered an easy formula for addressing the two largest problems with the sound of my beloved 1981 Heresy 1.5's (Heresy 1 drivers with the E2 balancing network). The K22-E woofer is not efficient enough to balance the squawker, even with the 9 dB attenuation via the T2A autotransformer. The enclosure contains only 1.6 cubic feet-before subtracting the drivers' and crossover's respective displacements. These limiting factors are familiar to most of you. I have achieved a vast improvement in frequency response, rhythmic drive, listenability and flexibility of room placement by changing-reversibly-only a few things. Bonus: 4dB increase in sensitivity over stock (96 dB/W @ 3 ft) to 100+ dB/W @ 1 m. I sought long and hard a 12" woofer with an efficiency of at least 96 dB/W (2 dB/W more than the Klipsch woofer) that possessed Thiele-Small parameters appropriate for a small, ported enclosure. (Running computer simulations for the Heresy's 1.5 cu.ft.of useable volume, I quickly discovered that physics will limit the extension of unported cabinets to a 3 dB down point (F3) around 70 Hz, regardless of any woofers I can fit.) I found two worthy candidates in the professional sound reinforcement category. The two readily and cheaply available candidates were the Peavey Sheffield Pro 1200+ and the Dayton Audio PA 310-8 12" woofers. My free speaker box calculator app showed that the Dayton woofer ($60 each) yielded the better maximum flat bass amplitude of these two 96 dB/W-candidates. Since I will not damage my one-owner vintage Klipsches (got them brand new in 1982), I bought a half-sheet of 1/2" thick MDF to make a new, port-friendly back panel for the Heresy cabinet and a short length of 3" diameter white PVC pipe along with a 3 1/2" hole saw at the hardware store. I just traced the original back panel and transferred the screw holes onto the MDF. Good measurements and at least a circular saw will give you better results. The box calculator app indicated that a 3" long tube of 3" inside diameter would tune the cabinet to 50 Hz to produce the lowest F3 possible with these woofers: 56.7 Hz. I know that does not seem great, but keep in mind that the simulator app showed the factory woofer's unported F3 at above 70 Hz, plus it was too quiet to balance the squawker and cannot play as loud as the 450 W- capable PA 310-8. You seeing where the "Scale and Gravitas" come in? I installed with hot glue the 3" I.D. by 3"long tubes in the lower outer corners of the MDF panel where the pipe would not foul anything (e.g. wooden cleats) inside the box. Since this new, much beefier woofer has a nominal 8 Ohm impedance instead of the Klipsch woofer's 11 Ohms, I modified the values of L2 and C2 in the Klipsch 'Balancing Network' (crossover) 12 dB/octave woofer low-pass section to achieve the smoothest transition to the squawker. Measurements with pink noise, a calibrated measurement microphone and RTA program led me to a standard second order 600 Hz low pass circuit for 8 Ohms,. That is, I merely changed the original woofer inductor L2 from 4 mH to 3.00 mH ( by unwinding some coils and measuring with an LC meter) and replaced C2, originally 33 muF, to 23.4 muF (a 22muF bipolar 100-Volt electrolytic in parallel with small value poly caps to sum to 23.4 muF). I left the squawker section totally stock, except for replacing the spam can 2 muF squawker capacitor (connected to T2A terminal 5) with a polypropylene Jantzen of the same value. The woofer now smoothly and powerfully balances that magic midrange horn. The speaker can now be placed a couple feet from the wall and still have much better bass than ever. With the Eminence ASD 1001 titanium tweeter driver screwed onto the factory tweeter horn [phase plug removed] with an adapter plate, described in my earlier posts, I measured very flat response from 50 Hz to 19 kHz +/- 2.8 dB ,with 1-octave smoothing; 101 dB SPL at 3 feet with 2.83 V pink noise in a medium sized, carpeted room. The room actually created a modest bass hump to make 40 Hz quite audible ( with the speakers over two feet from the back wall! ). I found that a third order 18 dB/octave high pass circuit at 6 kHz (8 Ohm), without going through the T2A at all, works wonderfully with the ASD 1001 and K52H squawker to prevent that deadly upper midrange hump, combined with the anemic bass, which made the stock Heresy's notorious, especially on denser sonic textures - and right hand piano notes should not honk. Only a narrow 1.5 dB hump at 1.2 kHz and a shallow 1.6 dB depression between 400 and 800 Hz and no spikes anywhere. This is the way I have always wished they had sounded. Bigger, smoother, sweeter.
  8. Dear Fellow Klipsch Fans, It has been several years since my original post concerning my Heresy upgrade to achieve smooth midrange, better imaging, and low end slam. I have learned some things since then in living with the mods, researching circuits and, lately, measuring sound. For someone with, at that time, few measuring instruments and so little experience and training in speaker design, I succeeded in voicing my Heresy II's in the right direction for my listening room and the speakers' vertical placement (I had put them on 16" high stands about 16" from each wall in the corners, more later about why this placement was not a good idea). I still believe that polypropylene caps sound better (less harsh) than the original paper-in- oil Aerovox caps; I have yet to measure this however, so I will not be dogmatic, yet. And I am positive that I prefer a poly cap to the electrolytic (33muF woofer) ) that my Heresy's sported from the factory, but they were almost 30 years old (hmmm. . . ) when I replaced them. At the time of my OP I had just discovered poly caps and was quite enthusiastic about them. I mean-I did not think that I should stick each lead of a poly film- and- tin foil cap in either nostril while listening (Nichicon Fine Gold or Elna Silmic II electrolytic with negative lead in left nostril? Hm, probably should use a Nichicon Muse Bipolar. . . ), but better circuit design and speaker placement seem more important. I recently acquired a calibrated measurement microphone (modest, but more precise than my ears) and downloaded some free RTA and room simulation software and decided to experiment with my half-baked, cobbled-together, yet expensive (700W, $50 woofer low-pass coil?) crossover. I have found a cheaper, less invasive, and measurably better modification with remarkable results. The treble and upper midrange are sweet, smooth, and pleasing and blend together seamlessly. Those of you who use mortite on the squawker horns may have been trying for this. The speakers project more like stock , they are more efficient than my previous mod., now 93 dB 2.83 V at I yard @ 1 kHz. The stereo image has depth now as well as width. You can use the original spam can caps if they are still good, but for the woofers, at least buy two 33muF, 100 Volt, Non-Polarized (Bi-Polar) electrolytics if yours are over 20 years old; they are cheap: a buck or two each. Metallized poly propylene 30 muF, 250 Volt caps are available for around $10 each last time I looked. I still like the Eminence ASD 1001 [see my RTA room response of them below] titanium compression drivers I specified in my OP for the tweeters, the four-bolt horns of which need the screw-on adapter plates mentioned in my OP. I cut the phase plugs out of my tweeter horns, but I would try them un-cut.. The Dayton Series II 12" 8-Ohm woofers work well in reproducing down to 30 Hz and their 92 dB sensitivity works with the Klipsch factory squawkers (the best part of the Heresy, IMO); although the -12 dB terminal (#1) of theT2A autoformer needs to be used on the squawker positive instead of terminal #2 on T2A (-9dB) to match output volumes. I checked all three driver relative volumes with calibrated mic and RTA and pink noise source. Also the Eminence tweeter's 2 muF cap needs to be connected directly to the input, completely bypassing the autoformer, whose terminal #3 (-6 dB) originally went to the cap and then from there to tweeter negative, because with my second-order tweeter crossover's smoother transition to the squawker no attenuation is needed to match the squawker output. I leave the woofer crossover totally stock, move the squawker positive to T2A's terminal #1 from T2A's terminal #2, but otherwise leave the squawker crossover alone, bypass T2A entirely for the tweeter, add a 0.25 mH coil across the tweeter terminals to make a 12 dB per octave, 7 kHz high pass filter out of the factory 6 dB/ octave crossover. Also I connect the tweeter in phase with the other two drivers instead of the factory's reverse polarity. Look how flat that tweeter respose is; it goes to almost 19 kHz according to spectrum analysis on white noise, in this room. This curve is of the driver without crossover installed yet. The RTA on pink noise is at 1 octave resolution. Below is a schematic showing the schematic with changes. I put the speakers back on their angled plinths all the way in the corners to avoid midbass suckout at 250 Hz shown in RTA woofer response attached below. The stands I was using and speaker distance from the corners in my listening room dimensions are culprits, since the factory curve for these Dayton woofers shows no such suckout and the crossover does not affect frequencies below 500 Hz. As you can see they go down to 30 Hz very well with no porting necessary. On stands or on the floor, the very bottom octave was little affected. It was the mid bass third octave that was killed by being on the stands. The room simulation software predicted this for my room dimensions, by the way. My previous mod added much mid bass and had a couple large humps across the spectrum, making up perhaps for my misguided use of 16" high stands. More Later. Antone Heresy Crossover.pdf tweeter curve Woofer room response ST305-8_fr.pdf
  9. ClaudeJ1 wrote:"I think LaScalas with twin tapped horn sub(s) is a huge improvement over a Khorn. for over 30 years (I was still a "kid" when it began), I had 2 Khorns with a mono LaScala in the middle, just like PWK's setup at home, which I heard, and it sound any different from mine, even though he had a Belle. What I have now is way better. The Roy Delgado's K-402 Mid horn STOMPS everything I have ever owned and heard out there, and that has been quite a few things in the last 6 years." ClaudeJ1' What are twin-tapped subs? Are the K-402 squawkers too big for a Heresy motor board?
  10. Hello Again Fellow Klipsch Fans, It has been awhile, and I've learned a few things since my last post. I now understand what an autoformer is and how a capacitor across the inputs to a driver increases its upper-end roll-off. With a little more knowledge I've found some different mods to smooth and to refine the voicing of my beloved Heresy's. The most important one is to use the built-in flexibility of the original T2A autoformer to bring the squawker output down 3 dB overall from stock by unsoldering the lead from terminal 2 and moving it to terminal 1 of the T2A autoformer. I love the way the K-52 H driver and horn handle the midrange; there is just a little too much of it. This mod nicely remedies this. If you'll remember, for the tweeter driver I specified the Eminence ASD-1001S titanium-domed driver [8 Ohm, screw-on] with the Selenium screw-on to 3-bolt adapter plate {#ADF25-25}; you will need to mark and drill holes to match the original K-77M Horn's 4-hole bolt pattern and to buy long brass 8-32 bolts to attach it. Trim the plastic adapter plate's flange with a hacksaw ( after drilling and before attaching, of course), and the whole assembly will fit well. This driver has a much better frequency response curve (out to 20kHz), but it is a little less sensitive than the stock phenolic-domed driver, so it gets a 3 dB overall boost by unsoldering the lead from terminal 3 and moving it to terminal 4 of the T2A autoformer. In order to smooth the transition between the tweeter and and the squawker I recommend two things: to change the tweeter high-pass capacitor from 2 muF to 1.8 muF (this makes a huge difference in sibilants' harshness), and to add a roll-off cap across the squawker driver inputs of around 0.43 muF. Polypropylene film and foil sound best, but metallized polypropylenes are cheaper and pretty good (both of these types are more precisely tolerated and won't go bad in twenty years like electrolytics!) . Capacitances add in parallel, so you can achieve 0.43 muF with a 0.33 muF and a 0.1 muF poly film-and-foil cap in parallel. I still believe that a 2 muF polypropylene film-and-foil cap is best for the squawker high pass cap (between INPUT + and terminal 5 of the T2A autoformer) With lowering the squawker output by 3 dB as mentioned in the first paragraph, I do not need to be so dogmatic as before about the Direct Current Resistance of the woofer low-pass inductor. So, I can now recommend a (much cheaper) 16- gauge "Super Q" inductor with an inductance of 3.5 mH and DCR of 0.200 Ohm (parts-express #266-916). Of course, this inductor is for my recommended, MUCH-better Dayton Audio Series II ST 305-8 12" drop-in replacement woofers. BTW, they do reproduce 30 Hz QUITE well; I used a 30 Hz test tone to confirm this fact. I still like a 33 muF metallized polypropylene cap across the the woofer inputs to roll off its upper end; although, I believe there may be room to fiddle with that a bit for smooth transition between the replacement woofer and the squawker. Also, I wonder if 1.7 muF might be an even better value for the tweeter high-pass cap. Happy Listening!
  11. T.H.E. Droid: 1. You're right. Taking a Heresy and modifying it to the extent to which I've done means it isn't a Heresy any longer; it's an IMPROVED Heresy. I have all the original components in boxes in my basement, so if I ever wanted to go back to midrangey, opaque sound with an unstable soundstage and bass that doesn't keep up with the squawker output, I could. I don't understand your umbrage at my mods. It is not as though I were furtively altering my Heresy's and trying to SELL them as original. 2. My goal was to fix obvious problems with my Heresy's' SOUND. All I wanted were: bass that BALANCES the mids and highs, treble that extends all the way to 20kHz, and a stable stereo image. PWK designed the Heresy mostly to handle mids as a center channel for primitive signal sources with limited frequency response. I utilize my Heresy's as the only speakers in my stereo system. I've spent decades listening to records and CD's through ruler-flat STAX electrostatic headphones. Slide rule or no, I KNOW what "flat" sounds like. 3.Nobody seems to believe that a smaller enclosure could ever reproduce low bass. Well, take a look at the Advent A3: smaller box, smaller woofer, and it still blew away the unmodified Heresy in the lowest octave. The A3 enclosure, made from MDF, is filled with foam rubber. Hence, I decided to try stuffing the Heresy enclosure and substituting a stronger woofer. These, along with the more-efficient low-pass inductor and woofer cap deepened and filled out the lows. My Heresy's are NOT bass-heavy, just balanced. The squawker is stock as is the value of its cap (merely a much higher quality one). I upgraded the phenolic plastic-diaphragmed tweeter, 17kHz limit (fine for sources in PWK's time), to a Titanium-diaphragmed unit with a bigger magnet and 20 kHz response. I matched caps and inductors' values to three decimal places Left to Right for stable imaging, but I didn't change the E2 network's architecture at all. Family members who have heard my Heresy's through the years tell me that they sound MUCH better than before modifications. They still have the qualities that first endeared them to me decades ago. They merely no longer exhibit the weaknesses that used to frustrate me. I wonder when you, too, will cease to frustrate me. Antone
  12. Greetings, Fellow Klipsch Fans I have found a higher quality capacitor for the squawker in my Heresy. The one I previously specified is an inexpensive metallized polypropylene 2 muF. The stereo image with it was stable, but the midrange became QUITE harsh at moderate to loud volumes. I recently decided to try much more expensive poly film and foil caps of the same capacitance (parts-express #027-724). The differences in size, weight, and build quality (e.g. gold-plated leads) compared to the cheaper caps are gratifying and help justify the cost. The sonic result is mellow, warm, glare-free midrange worth listening to at any volume. Parts-express sells poly film and foil caps of various small values (0.01 muF to 0.47 muF in 5 steps) to combine in parallel with the main caps, so you can precisely match one speaker's crossover capacitances to the other's. Happy Listening!
  13. There is a popular perception that sealed enclosures are better than vented designs in all cases. I don’t agree as a general rule. All woofer-enclosure systems involve compromises. In my experience well damped vented systems have worked better. I have not had a sealed design that will pressurize the room the same way as a good vented design. Just my experience and I grant you that your experience and preference will differ, of course. One thing I have never come across though, is a high-sensitivity woofer in a small enclosure (ported or sealed) that has bass response down to the 30hz threshold. The give for lower bass is lower sensitivity for the same enclosure. Replacing the stock Heresy woofer with a different driver with the same sensitivity, or better, in a 1.7 cu in box and getting response down to 30 or even 40 hz makes this driver seem to be rather extraordinary. I would like to try them myself except for the many other unfinished projects I have around. DavidF, I think you have a point. I don't know it all; if I thought that, then there would be no hope for me The bass with the Dayton woofers, stuffed enclosures and low-loss low-pass coil may not go to 30 Hz, but it is definitely and easily perceptibly lower, louder and more dynamic. Before the Dayton 12" I always needed to increase bass with a graphic EQ or bass knob to balance the horns at any volume; now at moderate, low, or concert levels the bass keeps pace with the treble and midrange with all controls set flat. The Dayton 295-120 12" just drops right into the motor board, using the same screws. It seems to be quieter in the mid- and upper bass than the Klipsch driver, so a lower inductance low pass coil (than the E2's) is better. My modded Heresy's still need to be in their corners. A correctly ported larger enclosure is probably the cheapest way to get non-corner-dependent low end. The Tangent 400 ported enclosure trex83 has posted info on seems like a place to start. Also one helpful gentleman wrote how to install a tuned port in the Heresy box.
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