Antone

T.H.E. Droid: 1. You're right. Taking a Heresy and modifying it to the extent to which I've done means it isn't a Heresy any longer; it's an IMPROVED Heresy. I have all the original components in boxes in my basement, so if I ever wanted to go back to midrangey, opaque sound with an unstable soundstage and bass that doesn't keep up with the squawker output, I could. I don't understand your umbrage at my mods. It is not as though I were furtively altering my Heresy's and trying to SELL them as original. 2. My goal was to fix obvious problems with my Heresy's' SOUND. All I wanted were: bass that BALANCES the mids and highs, treble that extends all the way to 20kHz, and a stable stereo image. PWK designed the Heresy mostly to handle mids as a center channel for primitive signal sources with limited frequency response. I utilize my Heresy's as the only speakers in my stereo system. I've spent decades listening to records and CD's through ruler-flat STAX electrostatic headphones. Slide rule or no, I KNOW what "flat" sounds like. 3.Nobody seems to believe that a smaller enclosure could ever reproduce low bass. Well, take a look at the Advent A3: smaller box, smaller woofer, and it still blew away the unmodified Heresy in the lowest octave. The A3 enclosure, made from MDF, is filled with foam rubber. Hence, I decided to try stuffing the Heresy enclosure and substituting a stronger woofer. These, along with the more-efficient low-pass inductor and woofer cap deepened and filled out the lows. My Heresy's are NOT bass-heavy, just balanced. The squawker is stock as is the value of its cap (merely a much higher quality one). I upgraded the phenolic plastic-diaphragmed tweeter, 17kHz limit (fine for sources in PWK's time), to a Titanium-diaphragmed unit with a bigger magnet and 20 kHz response. I matched caps and inductors' values to three decimal places Left to Right for stable imaging, but I didn't change the E2 network's architecture at all. Family members who have heard my Heresy's through the years tell me that they sound MUCH better than before modifications. They still have the qualities that first endeared them to me decades ago. They merely no longer exhibit the weaknesses that used to frustrate me. I wonder when you, too, will cease to frustrate me. Antone

Greetings, Fellow Klipsch Fans I have found a higher quality capacitor for the squawker in my Heresy. The one I previously specified is an inexpensive metallized polypropylene 2 muF. The stereo image with it was stable, but the midrange became QUITE harsh at moderate to loud volumes. I recently decided to try much more expensive poly film and foil caps of the same capacitance (parts-express #027-724). The differences in size, weight, and build quality (e.g. gold-plated leads) compared to the cheaper caps are gratifying and help justify the cost. The sonic result is mellow, warm, glare-free midrange worth listening to at any volume. Parts-express sells poly film and foil caps of various small values (0.01 muF to 0.47 muF in 5 steps) to combine in parallel with the main caps, so you can precisely match one speaker's crossover capacitances to the other's. Happy Listening!

There is a popular perception that sealed enclosures are better than vented designs in all cases. I don’t agree as a general rule. All woofer-enclosure systems involve compromises. In my experience well damped vented systems have worked better. I have not had a sealed design that will pressurize the room the same way as a good vented design. Just my experience and I grant you that your experience and preference will differ, of course. One thing I have never come across though, is a high-sensitivity woofer in a small enclosure (ported or sealed) that has bass response down to the 30hz threshold. The give for lower bass is lower sensitivity for the same enclosure. Replacing the stock Heresy woofer with a different driver with the same sensitivity, or better, in a 1.7 cu in box and getting response down to 30 or even 40 hz makes this driver seem to be rather extraordinary. I would like to try them myself except for the many other unfinished projects I have around. DavidF, I think you have a point. I don't know it all; if I thought that, then there would be no hope for me The bass with the Dayton woofers, stuffed enclosures and low-loss low-pass coil may not go to 30 Hz, but it is definitely and easily perceptibly lower, louder and more dynamic. Before the Dayton 12" I always needed to increase bass with a graphic EQ or bass knob to balance the horns at any volume; now at moderate, low, or concert levels the bass keeps pace with the treble and midrange with all controls set flat. The Dayton 295-120 12" just drops right into the motor board, using the same screws. It seems to be quieter in the mid- and upper bass than the Klipsch driver, so a lower inductance low pass coil (than the E2's) is better. My modded Heresy's still need to be in their corners. A correctly ported larger enclosure is probably the cheapest way to get non-corner-dependent low end. The Tangent 400 ported enclosure trex83 has posted info on seems like a place to start. Also one helpful gentleman wrote how to install a tuned port in the Heresy box.

Thanks, Chuck I, indeed, have learned a great deal from you and folkdeath, Mr. Crites,Speakerfritz, et al. If I were trying to sell my mods and claimed that my crossovers were electronically superior, then I could understand T.H.E. Droid's ire. I tried some things, described truthfully and in detail their sonic effects, and gave my rationale (sometimes mistaken) for those effects. I am satisfied with the sound my Heresy's now produce. If I want better speakers I'll go to a store.

Chuck, As usual, your post is informative and helpful. I will search the forum for those items. Thanks Antone

Groomlakearea51, Thanks for your suggestion (and for correcting the spelling of my screen name; I'm a big believer in editing my posts to fix typos and such). My initial goal was to fix issues with the spectral balance of the Heresy I's without losing their character -which is why I chose them 29 years ago. The three features most responsible in my estimation for the Heresy sound are: the midrange horn (squawker), the balancing network with its T2A autoformer, and the enclosure. My modifications left the squawker section of the crossover, the midrange driver and the lens (horn) unchanged, except for a direct substitution of the squawker spam-can capacitor with a metallized polypropylene cap of the same value. So the midrange of my modded Heresy is basically unaltered- just a titch cleaner and more solid. (In fact none of my crossover mods changed the design of the network; all I did was to directly substitute higher quality, narrower tolerance components (slightly tweaked in value, but still basically within the original components' tolerance margin). What my Heresy's always lacked were: bass deep and loud enough to balance squawker output, and treble response to 20 kHz (hence my modern woofer and titanium tweeter driver). The simple problem with the bass is really due to the enclosure being too small. Stuffing the box truly and noticeably improves this situation, as well as using a much more efficient (lower loss) woofer inductor. This is a compromise, however. The ideal solution would be to use a larger sealed enclosure. Famed loudspeaker designer, John Dunlavy, stated his belief that the best route to phase-coherent, flat bass response all the way down to 20 Hz is a large, airtight enclosure of correct volume. Ported designs are a compromise, but perhaps a better one than a too-small sealed enclosure. Ported designs I have heard usually had lumpy, sloppy-sounding bass, but it was louder. My sealed, stuffed Heresy's now have more and deeper (about an octave) bass, but they still need to be placed in the corners-a sign that they are still Klipsch speakers. The way to go from here does seem to be rethinking the enclosure. That's a big step. Your idea of using my drivers in a totally new enclosure has merit, and I would like to know more about the Tangent 400. Please elaborate:) Antone

DavidF, Thank you for explaining how a cap straddling the woofer terminals affects bass roll off. This indicates that direct substitution of the caps and coil with better ones of the same values is the more conservative bet. I arrived at the 3.71 mH for the woofer coil by trial and error. (One of the original "4 mH" woofer inductors actually measured 3.8 mH, anyway, so my 3.71 mH spec is basically within the margin of error that Klipsch allowed.) The roll off starts a titch higher, but my specification of a better woofer cap of the same value, 33 muF, keeps the slope of the roll-off similar. My recommended Dayton 12" woofer (#295-120) has the same 8-Ohm impedance as the Klipsch K-22E, and my Dayton woofer's inductance, 3.07 mH, is within 10% of the K-22E's 2.8 mH. Remember, Klipsch allowed a 5% tolerance in woofer inductors from left speaker to right speaker. Before my modifications my Heresy's sometimes sounded midrangey, lacking depth, smoothness and high end extension. I voiced the midrange and treble using my STAX electrostatic headphones as the model. For the bass I took a few hints from the acoustics of the Advent speaker (stuffing&sealing the enclosure, choosing a potent, efficient driver with a BIG magnet and response down to 25 Hz). Once again, DavidF, Thanks

Chuck, Thanks for the definitions. My understanding of the function of the 33 muF electrolytic has been incorrect, but my part recommendations and sonic descriptions remain the same. I have edited some of my earlier posts to reflect the improvements in my understanding. (Thanks to you and others in this forum!)

Chuck, Thanks for the graphs[Y] I see the steeper roll-off of the "E2", but I don't know some of the terms of the table. I think I get 'f'', 'z' & 'L' (frequency , impedance, and inductance), but I don't understand 'x', 'p', or 'c'. I see that the response graph is in decades instead of octaves? (In college I was a music major with electrical engineer roommates.) The bigger inductor starts the roll-off at a lower frequency, but it's the 'order' that dictates the steepness? Thanks P.S. the "smiley"[*-)] that I used in my last post was the "confused", not the roll-eyes.

Chuck and Speakerfritz, Thanks for the reminder; I think in DC to a fault. No signal above 450 Hz makes it past the 4 mH inductor to the 33 muF cap. So what does the 33 muF cap accomplish for the woofer by bridging its plus and minus? I guess it's a second order with a steeper slope, but how does the 33 muF cap cause that? Take me to school[*-)]

Chuck and Speakerfritz, Thanks for the reminder; I think in DC to a fault. No signal above 450 Hz makes it past the 4 mH inductor to the 33 muF cap. So what does the 33 muF cap accomplish for the woofer by bridging its plus and minus? I guess it's a second order with a steeper slope, but how does the 33 muF cap cause that? Take me to school[*-)]

Chuck, I'll take your word for it regarding the squawker/woofer phase relationship[:$] According to the schematic (thanks for providing it) and my L/C meter, the 33 muF cap is in parallel with the 2 muF squawker cap to yield a sum of 35 muF, measured at the 2 muF cap's (or at the 33 muF cap's) terminals. (Unlike resistance, capacitances add in parallel.) The other 2muF cap (connected to the tweeter) measures 2muF with my meter, so it must not be in parallel with another cap. It is, however, in series with the squawker's 2 muF cap (which itself is in parallel with the 33 muF cap). As you know, capacitors in series don't add; rather the lower (lowest)-valued cap prevails. Since the series caps are a 2 muF and, in effect, a 35 muF, 2 muF is the value at the tweeter cap. The 33 muF may be located at the woofer output screws, but I believe that it still acts upon the squawker in combination with the 2 muF to form a 35 muF high pass filter for the squawker. I sense that you may know more about 1st- vs. 2nd-order crossovers than I, so thanks for your info.

davidcl, I believe that the "E2" is better, since Klipsch evidently thought it was worth changing, and adding parts to, the "E". Also, the "E2" not only reduces the overall power (by 9 dB) going to the squawker (via the T2A autotransformer, as in the "E"), but also, only the "E2" uses another capacitor (33 MuF) to block frequencies below 600 Hz from going to the squawker change the slope of the woofer response curve. Anything that calms down that midrange horn is a benefit in my book! The "E2" wires the squawker in phase with the woofer; the "E" has the squawker 180 degrees out of phase with the woofer. Time-coherence/step-response is thus improved in the "E2". davidcl, the paper sticker on the back of your Heresy should indicate if it is a Heresy or a Heresy II. I believe that there is no way your 1983 Heresy's could have the earlier "E" crossover, and I don't know when the Heresy II appeared. The Heresy II has a different tweeter among other things, and my mods don't apply to it. Bob Crites sells a titanium diaphragm upgrade for the tweeter of the Heresy II, I think. If you have Heresy II speakers, for sure check out Mr. Crites' website. My parts-see part numbers in my previous reply to you- (capacitors and stuffing for two speakers) cost around $110. These caps sound cleaner, sweeter and crisper, and they will never fail, unlike the spam cans and especially the 33 muF electrolytic. I really am sure that 1.8 muF tweeter caps sound better than the 2 muF with the K77M. Happy modding! This post subsequently edited

cfelliot, Thanks for your input. Three minor points about the "E2"crossover: The 33 muF cap at the woofer output screws, which is in parallel with one of the 2muF spam cans for a total capacitance of 35 muF, actually acts as a high pass filter for the squawker. Another thing is that the 1.8 muF tweeter cap RAISES the crossover point compared to the 2 muF: at 8 Ohms, in a second order crossover 2 muF sets a high-pass point of 7000 Hz. My specified Superior Jantzen 1.8 muF cap sets a higher high-pass point of 7,777 Hz. This smooths out the transition from the top of the squawker's range to the bottom of the tweeter's range (less overlap at 5000 Hz). This makes for a less peaky upper midrange and actually decreases the total power going to the tweeter: No worries about over-driving the tweeter I believe that the Heresy's K77M tweeter is hard to beat, and only a titanium-diaphragmed driver (e.g. Eminence ASD 1001 or Selenium D2500Ti-Nd) improves on it. My 1.8 MuF tweeter cap is all that an undamaged stock Klipsch tweeter needs to improve its clarity and sweetness without major modifications. Yes, you are right that the woofer low-pass inductor in the "E2" has a different value (4 mH) from the "E" coil (2.5mH). By the way, your pictures show that you did a really nice job on your "E". You can upgrade your "E" to an "E2" simply by: swapping a 4 mH woofer low-pass coil (parts-express #266-922) in place of your 2.5 mH coil, installing a 33 muF polypropylene (#027-592) cap across the woofer output terminals,and reversing the polarity of the squawker output screws. Happy listening

Davidcl, Thanks for your interest. I agree; the most cost-effective upgrades are changing out the capacitors (no need to worry about polarity of these caps) and installing the poly stuffing. The photo of the type "E" crossover contained in cfelliot's reply to your query is helpful, but I am betting that your 1982 Heresy's (if they're not Heresy II's) utilize the Type "E2" network, which contains three capacitors: the two "spam" cans (shown in cfelliot's reply to your post) plus one electrolytic capacitor, whose two leads connect to the two woofer output screws. There should be a faintly embossed "2" immediately to the right of the red "printed "E" on the crossover nameplate. This is a Heresy I upgrade. This list comprises parts for both speakers. All components are available at parts-express.com . Two Woofers part # 295-120 Two Tweeter Capacitors 1.8 muF part # 027-480 (These sound much sweeter & smoother than 2muF.) Four Squawker (midrange horn) Capacitors: Two 33muF part # 027-592 and two 2muF part # 027-534 Two low-pass woofer inductors part # 255-820 Acoustic enclosure fiberfill part #260-330 (Divide evenly between the two speakers.) It helps to be good at soldering, and it helps to have an LC meter part # 390-570 to fine tune the woofer inductors to 3.71mH and to measure the capacitance value of the Spam-can caps. In each speaker's balancing network board there are two identical 2 muF "spam" (oval, aluminum) cans, one being the tweeter cap, and the other is in parallel with a (crappy) 33muF electrolytic and will yield a combined value of 35 muF. The spam can whose terminals yield a 35 muF capacitance is a squawker cap; the spam can that reads 2muF (and is connected to a tweeter output screw) is the tweeter cap,which is to be replaced with the 1.8 muF Jantzen Superior cap. Replace the 33muF electrolytic (It's located at the woofer output screws.) with the part # 027-592 . There are two open bracket choke-style inductors which look a lot like transformers; the low-pass inductor for the woofer has just two wires, and the other is the T2A autotransformer, which has many wires yielding overall attenuation in 3dB steps. Only one of these has ONLY two leads coming out of it; one of which goes to a woofer terminal on the barrier strip. This is the woofer inductor to be replaced with part #255-820 unwound to yield an Inductance of 3.71mH. (Hot glue can keep the coil from further unraveling). One last step is to replace the two 18 AWG wires from the woofer with two 14 AWG wires of the same exact length.The same goes for the wires from the back of the enclosure to the crossover ("balancing network"). If you want to improve your Heresy's relatively cheaply, you might replace only (all) the capacitors and fill the enclosures with the poly stuffing. Stuffing the cabinets makes a NOTICEABLE difference in the bass depth and overall cleanness. The much better caps WILL sweeten, clean and solidify the midrange and treble without changing the Klipschness. Happy listening! Antone

Greetings, Fellow Klipsch Fans, I have discovered another worthwhile Heresy 1 upgrade: titanium-diaphragm tweeter drivers that go all the way up to 20 kHz! They are cheap ($30 each) and require little in the way of crossover modification. The most difficult job is modifying the adapter plate (parts-express #264-322) to adapt the stock K77M aluminum horn to take the Eminence ASD 1001 screw-on driver (#290-525). This tweeter is slightly less efficient than the stock K77M, but that is compensated for very nicely by moving the lead attached to the T2A autotransformer's #3 tap from #3 to #4, yielding a 3 dB increase overall to the tweeter. With this new, smoother, higher-power-handling driver the 1.8 muF cap I have recommended for the K77M tweeter ought to be changed back to the stock 2 muF. In my trials of different tweeters I found that it is necessary to keep the stock aluminum horn because of space constraints. These constraints also limit the diameter of the driver to 3.5" max. With these limitations there are few fitting alternatives for tweeter drivers. In fact only four tweeter drivers from parts-express even fit. And of these, two have titanium diaphragms; (the $30 phenolic diaphragmed one-Eminence APT 50- is not as good as the K77M.) I tried the Selenium D2500Ti-Nd at $84 each, though they were about as efficient as the K77M, they did not sound appreciably better than the K77M, (nor was their response curve as smooth as the Eminence ASD 1001). The last driver I found that would fit-RCF ND350, $140 each- has a polyester diaphragm; I did not try it, for it is way too expensive. Don't be fooled by the parts express description of the ASD 1001 in regard to its frequency response "2,500-19,000 Hz". The Eminence site response graph of this driver (http:www.eminence.com/pdf/ASD1001S.pdf) attached to their standard horn shows a very smooth response from 7,000 to 20,000Hz- within 3dB except for a narrow 3.5 dB spike at 18,600 Hz (somehow this spike pleases me a little, because it's so high.) Bottom line: though limited to 17,000 Hz the K77M is hard to beat; if yours are okay, the Eminence ASD 1001 is the only one I found that is noticeably better. If you are handy and have the tools to alter the adapter plate and to move one wire in the crossover, it's nice to hear every bit of the crystal ring of good cymbals, triangles, metal strings, etc. It makes for... Happy Listening. Antone

Blvdre, Thanks. I guess Cask's inference, boiled down, is that, even if shallower, horn-loaded bass is preferable because of its lower FM distortion. "Distortion" is a measure of all discrepancy between the original source's signal and the reproduced signal. A speaker that fails to reproduce the lowest audible frequencies at or near the same volume level as the source signal is exhibiting a far more discernible and objectionable distortion (to me) than FM distortion: "Double-basses, I thought I told you to play forte here, not mezzo-piano!" After all, a good phono cartridge possesses around 5% to 9% THD, and I don't mind. My preamp's phono stage measures less than 0.0006% THD; in comparison to the cartridge's distortion, this seems silly, but I'm still glad of it. Mr. Klipsch seemed to think that an acoustically-suspended, direct radiator could be a reasonable trade-off in the Heresy. Of course, he thought 50-17k Hz was good enough. If I can upgrade drivers and crossover components to tweak spectral balance and clarity and to extend the range at both ends, well, I just about have nowhere to go but up. A louder (in the actual bass), deeper, stronger woofer seems an obvious tweak. Soon I will be trying a Titanium-domed tweeter driver that DEFINITELY goes up to 20 kHz--in fact its graph shows it within 3 dB from 7 kHz to 20 kHz, with a narrow 3.5 dB peak at around 19 kHz. I can hardly wait to try it. Maybe someday I will own a completely horn-loaded Klipsch speaker, but for now, I will do anything I can afford to upgrade my Heresy's. Remember; it's a hobby. Antone

Mr. Crites: I have just found your website. . . oh. It answers many of my questions. I will be ordering the CT-125 K-77M replacement tweeters ASAP. Humbly, Antone

Stan, I'm glad that you found an inductor yielding the results you want (and for less money). The bass I am hearing with my sealed, modified Heresy's is quite satisfying (almost like turning on a "loudness" button), so I can wait awhile to try the porting. To DJK I wrote: 'Also, Stan Man has told me to try a 4.3125" diameter port tube with length adjustable from 6.25" to 11.75"; would that diameter work at a different length, or is it just too big around?' DJK replied: "You must use a 3" dia port with an elbow. A 4" port would be too long to tune the box properly, and a 3" without an elbow will be too close to another surface. JBL uses a 3" port with an elbow in the L100/4311 models." So you see, I will need to buy the 3" diameter port, tube, elbow and coupler ($30 per speaker), and I need to buy new MDF sheets to be the new enclosure backs (since I don't want to alter the original wooden ones) $20?, cut to size with mirror-imaged 3" holes. I'm sorry that I seemed to dismiss your advice. You graciously tried my suggested woofer inductor (which apparently did not work out) and are being a good sport about it, so I ought to give your suggestion a try. When I do, I'll let you know how it sounds. Thanks, Antone

Chris, Fascinating stuff! Thank you. I didn't know that they were still making La Scala's. If movement distorts, then porting my enclosures would only drastically increase distortion. The distortion (IM & THD) of my power amp is below the threshold of contemporary measuring equipment at any frequency and at any power level I would ever use. I appreciate low distortion, but I consider shallow, too-quiet bass a more irritating distortion of the signal than FM distortion (just as I find low wow & flutter much more important in a turntable than what exotic material-e.g. glass-comprises a belt-driven [yikes!] platter). You have convinced me to avoid turning my Heresy into a bass reflex system. I don't prefer the overall sound of the Advent, but its bass's depth and volume are superior to the Heresy's (or were before I installed beefier woofers, better inductors and poly-fiber stuffing). I have toyed with the idea of creating a scaled-down Klipschorn enclosure to horn-load the woofer, but I don't have the woodworking skills. It seems that acoustic suspension is the middle ground between porting and horn-loading, distortion-wise. Placing them in corners may be a move towards horn-loading, using the boundaries to reinforce lows. Thanks, Antone

Stan, These gas prices are eating my extra cash, but I still intend trying the tuned porting when I can. It seems that you are able to place your Heresy's away from the walls and still hear enough bass. Airtight, mine sound great in the corners, but I wouldn't mind a bit more bass if it's as clean and smooth as I hear without porting. Antone

Sorry it didn't seem to help. Many seem to believe that the enclosure size/porting and filter alignment are the only variables affecting bass response. If that were truly the case then my smaller, stuffed Advent boxes with their smaller woofers and first-order crossovers wouldn't reproduce as much or as deep bass as my Heresy's did with their larger boxes and stock 12" drivers. No one has explained why the Advents kicked the Heresy's butt in the bass-both in profundity and volume (absolute, not just in comparison to their less-sensitive tweeters), before I stuffed the Heresy enclosures and switched out the woofers. Without porting, the Heresy's still belong deep in the corners. Maybe it's my room size/shape that is making the bass difference so audible. When comparing did you leave one speaker alone and install the toroidal in the other so as to hear a diiference between L&R? In my listening room, because of where my system shelf unit is in relation to the short walls the left speaker has louder bass than the right due to a standing wave. Whichever speaker I placed on the left had more bass, so I compared the altered speaker to the unaltered speaker in the same location. Otherwise the speaker on the right always had less bass than the left and could invalidate the comparison. Before you give up, compare the toroidal-bearing speaker to the stock speaker in the same position L or R. Stan, if you can, would you post your photo comparing the K22E to the Dayton ST-305? ( I'll bet you said,"Oh Yeah!" when you opened up that parts-express box!) It's like getting a new HEMI crate engine from Chrysler to put in your Dodge Dart. I believe that the Dayton's much bigger/more powerful motor has more strength to overcome box-induced impedances. Happy Listening. Antone

Mr. Crites, your reputation precedes you: Thank you for correcting me in regard to the classification of the 2muF, spam-can-shaped, motor-run-style Aerovox capacitors. I accidently lumped them in with the 33muF, 100V, bipolar as all being electrolytics. The printed caution on the 2 muF caps about dangerous inflammability led me to believe that there is inflammable goo inside the spam can that acts as an electrolyte; that would have rendered the Aerovoxes electrolytics. Perhaps you have a recommendation for a replacement tweeter driver/horn combination that reproduces treble all the way up to 20kHz. Also I would like to know if there is a replacement coil/diaphragm available for the squawker compression driver for an eventual failure due to age. Sincerely, Antone

Speakerfritz, I do not know what a "thread buster" is. This is the first and only forum I've joined. In answering questions/objections from various users I just reply to their posts directly. I am not trying to trick or to deceive anyone for jollies. This is an interesting forum addressing a topic important and fascinating to me. I have learned valuable info. from this community, and I wish only to share my experience and insights. I find it interesting that some Klipsch fans are going back and forth about measurements, because we all own these speakers in spite of their specifications (50-17k Hz, +/- 5 dB is nothing to write home about.), and because we loved their sound when we heard them. With my mods I hear the improvements I have described. If few believe me, I will thrill to my Heresy's' new, improved sound nonetheless. My Klipsches no longer lack deep bass, and my new caps will never wear out, unlike the stock electrolytics. So for decades to come I will enjoy-- Happy Listening. Antone

Stan, Another explanation for less bass with the "3.9 mH" toroidal is that your Heresy's may have E networks not E2. The E network's woofer inductor's value is 2.5 mH; the E2's is 4 mH. Your "3.9" mH will yield less output and leaner bass than the stock E's 2.5 mH. Are you sure that you have an E2? If you do, then you should see a Union Carbide 33 muF, 100V electrolytic cap attached to the woofer output screws on the network barrier strip. If there is NO 33 muF cap, then you have an E network. You can change an E to an E2 by adding that 33 muF cap (parts-express #027-350 @ 82 cents), reversing the squawker leads so its minus lead connects to the "0" tap of the T2A "transformer", and keeping that 3.9 mH toroidal inductor in-line to the woofer plus barrier strip screw. Happy Listening. Antone