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Everything posted by Bubo

  1. I'll hook up a Class A integrated amp to the speakers in the AM and see if the problem persists.
  2. Cleaning sounds like a good idea, certainly a low cost start. Was thinking of pulling the crossovers and sending them to Crites for refirb and replacing the horn gaskets. Hopefully no dead rats hiding in the vents, but I'll look. thanks PS the old Altec 820 had just been completely disassebmled, refirbed and reassembled.
  3. Greetings, Don't know if its the music I am listening to lately, Delerium Karma etc, but the bass on my 1979 LaScalas sounds loose and booming for lack of a better description. Speakers are stock origingal and currenly driven off of my old but loved Pioneer Elite VS 09-Tx vintage 5.1 AB receiver running in 2 ch. Low res on you tube, still smokes on percussion I have my Mac Stack C-32 and MC 2205 out of the Mac crates and am racking them as I type, well almost as I type. I am running the Elite on direct so its direct from the 24bit DAC to the amp section bypassing all the tech. With good headphones detail surpasses what is comming out of the LaScalas I recently listened to the same music on some Vintage Altec 820C dual 15" corner cabinits 50-16.5K. bass was far more detailed and complex and satisfying. The horns on the 803 drive down to 800Hz. The female voice resolution and quality sounds better on the LaScalas but that may just be the amp and CD player the owner had hooked up. He told me on tubes the sound was so much smoother. I already posted all the pics and cut sheets on the Audio Karma pages if you scroll down. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=476108 Honestly, I might have swaped him for my LaScalas if not for the extra $14K that would have been required. Any thoughs on booming LaScalas and mid bass resolution? My thoughts are turning towards Selinium drivers and horns. This is the baskettball size driver, so I may have to go down a bit in size and power. 112 db 1WM http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-230.pdf http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-329 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-230 And some kind of bass bins that are high res or a dual front firing 15 inch vented cab. Open for discussion, my faith has been shaken or do the crossovers just need a recap?
  4. Quiet, Looks like we have the same La Scalas. I listened to everything inc movies in 2 Ch for years out of the McIntosh and was very content. I wanted to experience 5.1 and purchased the TOTL Synergy speakers 70% off at the end of life sale. The B3s are stacked on top of the LaScalas, C3 under the TV, and the S3s on the bookshelves behind me. When a movie is mastered properly, and a good recording quality, the 5.1 rocks. When I am listening to just music, I have done multiple AB tests, and the LaScalas always come out on top. You can probably get your hands on 5 B3s for not too much money used, and set up a similar stacked system. I'm currently trying to decide if I purchase 2 racks for the sides of the TV or build a 7 foot, 3 shelf open shelf stand for the amps etc. Whether I go vertical, or horizontal, I will end up with two complete, discrete stacked systems that are application specific. In the end, I will be bypassing the class D amp stage of the Pioneer Elite, and pre-amping the surround speakers into Class A AB Yamaha MX-800s, 3 of them. This should eliminate the irritating Class D bee buzzing sound of the internal AD-DA amplification process. If I'm not careful, it will also blow the B3s and the rest of the stuff apart literally as the magnets rip from the cones and drivers cook. But it's a chance worth taking. Judicious use of the gain controls on the Yamaha and the Mac equipment have kept my speakers healthy so far. If I did it again, I would pick off a good DTS Master surround processor with no internal Class D amps, Yuck. I may still do it and sell my Pioneer or use it as a boat anchor. Does anyone know of any good and inexpensive DTS master pre-amps? Emotiva?
  5. With the Heresy's, 2 watts is screaming, Heritage stuff was designed with tubes in mind. Whatever you decide on for a pre-amp, be sure to get one that will allow you to use more than one amp. A speaker selector switch can be set up to move the speakers between two amps or you could play with 2 sets of speakers at some point in the future. BR LR. This will let you experiment with amps for different music, tube rolling and AB comparisons etc. Just checked the Klipsch web site, $850 list for Heresy 3s per speaker, and they support bi-amping. I've never looked into to it, but bi-amping with 2 40 watt class A tube amps might be cool after starting out with just one. Yaquin has some deals in the 40 watt range, but I understand the EL34s are too syrupy. Haven't listened to any of them, so its hearsay on my part. Good luck on whatever you decide. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx If at some point in the future, you decide to go 5.1, it can be done with 5 Heresy's; and a sub for movie sound effects. 5.1 bi amp center and fronts with heresys with 3x 40 w valve, rears with one amp. Used surround pre-amp that support DTS Master shouldn't be too much.
  6. If I had the room, I would run LaScalas as fronts and heresy's as the sides and rears. Until I do, its a Synergy 5.1 system with the fronts sitting on top of the LaScalas, which are going to be run off of my Mac gear. IMHO DTS Master is the best I have heard, and it comes on DVDs and Blu-Rays, which also solves the problem of staring at a blank wall. What I discovered while recovering from an injury, was that running the DTS into the Elite and sending it out to just the 2 ch fronts was the best of both worlds. Sounds like rear channels are stripped, center is divided and sent to the fronts, sound is wonderful. The TOTL Synergy stuff just can't punch with the LaScalas My vote is for DTS Master 5.1... Stereo
  7. What is high fidelity? I had a friend who was looking at upgrading and wanted to hear my stereo. We worked our way up from old CD, remastered CD, Synergy B3 surrounds etc, all the time staying with the same artists. I asked him where the artist was, over there, distant, close by, singing to you, sitting on your lap etc? When we finally arrived at Sheryl Crow DTS Master; Rockin the Globe DVD, running through the La Scala's I thought he was going to try to mount the Plasma TV, she was singing to him sitting on his lap. This DVD is right after Lance Armstrong, Sting, Owen Wilson and I think Clapton, Crow is pumping out the emotion. A week later we picked off mint recapped, re-veneered Heresy 1s, he disconnected all of his other speakers and listens to the Heresy's exclusively, didn't even bother to hook up the sub 12 I sold him.
  8. John, You may want to list out your other equipment, amp etc. The problem you are going to have is your ears are accustomed to full range speakers. I have listened to the 83s and liked them, IMHO they are designed to be part of a 5.1 set with a sub though. For 2 channel listening, 3 ways with a 12 inch or larger woofer are hard to beat. I strongly encourage you to consider a pair of Heresy's, 2s in mint condition can be had for $500 and 3s mint for $1000 or new for 1800. Mount them on some end tables in the corners of the room or just to the side of your big screen TV on tables. Also since the speakers are highly efficient, you can move to a class A amp and get a sweeter sound if you don't have one already.
  9. Just loaded it on my PC, tried Poe: Fly Away....one girl one piano Impresssive sound Update: Just spent an hour hunting and pecking though various artists, who don't sound like the artist I they linked to. Good service quality, lots of selections. I do miss my smooth jazz station and the collective decades of experience in hunting and pecking the various personalities bring to their shows. Radio will remain my primary source of finding new artists and movie soundtracks.
  10. Dave, As to the optical interface in stereo gear, I have never studied it. The receiver has to derive the clock from the signal. I assume the signal and the clock are one way only simplex and not duplex, unless there is some need to lock the clocks for buffering or flow control which seems beyond the needs of stereo. Like data protocols, is there framing for the data bits and is the timing derived from the timing bits in the protocol? How robust is the protocol? Also, is the signaling binary or do they get cute on optical? I hadn't given it a lot of thought. Once the receiver derives the clock, so it knows where and when to look, its a matter of feeding the decoder at the speed it wants, so as a design issue, I don't know if the DAC guys put the data buffering in the receiver chips-set or the DAC chip-set to address any clock drift or over-speed issues. I would do both, but I'm not a stereo designer. My comments were based on optical isolation, letting the receiver's DAC decode and generate analog, and the age of the optical protocol whatever it is. If there are inferior optical driver chip sets that cause too much drift or can't handle drift that would be disappointing considering that age of the technology. For reference, I should have said, get any TOTL Blue Ray player ($100), since these are made in million unit quantities and you probably are on safe ground with the optical part. I have read comments about people hearing phase jitter, but have no idea what they are talking about. Bad DAC design?
  11. To answer your question: The best CD player in the world is the cheapest one with an optical interface to your DAC which in this case is your surround receiver. My ears tell me the surround receivers EQ and DSPs are tweaked for their specific class D amps to clean up or mask any deficiencies class D vs class A. Take the receiver's EQ and DSPs out of the equation by using the most direct mode you have aka source direct, or pcm direct or whatever they call it. This bypasses all of the circuits and goes straight to the pre-amp. Simplest approach as stated above. It sounds like you are already going directly from your pre-amp into Emotive class A, AB amps. I haven't compared Emotiva Amps to Yamaha's or Macs class As, but there would be nowhere to go but down IMHO. The patch cords between your receiver and amp are important, so gold plated ends and O free copper, shielded are important. You can't have too much damping in a room, particularly with a cement floor and walls, I would also get the speakers off of the floor so they don't dry rot, if they are near the cement they are wicking. Also keeping the room dry with a de-humidifier is critical if you love your gear. Thick rugs and pads on cement are a must, something heavy on the back wall like a hanging carpet, or velor or foam backed curtains like a theater. Hope this helps
  12. Gorm, I can't comment on the driver changes, caps or attenuating drivers. My LaScalas are not in the 20x40 room I bought them for years ago; where people would drop their knees when the Mac gear turned on. They are now in a 16x 14 room, which is safe to say sub optimal. At least part of what you are running into are reflected sounds, standing waves and varying levels of absorption at higher volumes. To calm things down a bit, the wall opposite the LS is floor to ceiling bookshelves, mostly books, sliding door panels have heavy insulated curtains, floor has an 80% area rug, furniture has cloth covers and large pillows, LS are aimed at the listening chair and resting on thick cotton door mats. Detail is quite good, bass can be a little boomy, could be the bass fad on new CDs. At higher volumes, a certain brightness begins to appear, not surprisingly opening the doors and windows seems to moderate the problem noticably. I'm guessing that higher freqs don't absorb as well and perhaps bounce off of the drywall creating very fast echos or standing waves. I don't think you can have too much damping. I have a pair of Heresy's in a small bedroom, higher volumes the brightness starts to appear, go into the hallway and the brightness is gone. Thanks, for all of the comments above. I'm thinking the first thing I need is a bigger house.
  13. I recall that I could get them in Birch, Cherry or Walnut. I went with Birch, it was a car or the speakers, but I still had to put gas in the old one. 6 cars later, I still have the La Scalas[]
  14. My bad, I keep forgetting that Chrome posts get packed making reading more difficult, reposted using Explorer Found the information that is used to design compression algorithms (mp3 and others) and music designed for MP3 players. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psychoacoustics http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cognitive_neuroscience_of_music My summary, all of the tones, buzzing and hissing that are common in the top 40 are put there for a reason. To trick the Brain into either ignoring sonic components or getting the brain to estimate what is missing and create it for you. There is no free lunch. For the record, I find the noise generated for the top 40 to be irritating in its own right and probably masks some really mediocre performers that the studios are pushing.
  15. My bad, reposted below for readability using IE, not chrome
  16. I had a sub-12 a real room shaker for movies, not terribly accurate but I loved it. Decided to switch to the RW-12, because it is directional instead of down-firing. The RW is far more accurate IMHO, but not a room shaker for movies. The reason I say it is more accurate, is listening to Alison Krause Live Blue Ray Concert, you can clearly hear every pluck of the bass, sounds real to me. Depends on the application, if I get a bigger place I may add a down-firing sub and turn it on for movies behind the sofa. Hope this helps
  17. Bruce, If as you say is true, what happens when the singers clip out on the upper range? Over compression?
  18. Mine arrived today, about 4 days after I ordered. Two holes in the box, but no apparent damage to the sub. Front grill is deformed, so I will be contacting Klipsch for a replacement. I'll plug it in over the weekend and check the thumping. A deal at $300. Did they say if there are more in the pipeline, or is this the end?
  19. BUMMER IKEA lists the max load for most of their stuff. If you use the 5 cubes tall by 1 wide side by side units; you shouldn't have a repeat. I'm guessing the whole bottle of Elmer's wouldn't have made any difference. Same load factors but the 5x1 would have had 8 more vertical load bearing risers. Again, I would use a 1/4 Masonite or furniture grade plywood backing on each 5x1 shelving unit secured with 1 inch ring shank flat head nails ( aluminum roofing nails would work, you can spay paint the heads before installing them) and a fine bead of silicone adhesive all the way around. I would paint the backing (on both sides) before installing it. I would cut the backing about 1/2 inch shorter and 1/2 less wide than the shelf dimensions and be sure to paint the edges. If you are like me and don't have the tools or the skills, pay a cabinit maker to cut the wood for you or the lumber yard may do it for a modest fee. Product dimensions Width: 58 5/8 "Depth: 15 3/8 " Height: 58 5/8 " Max load/shelf: 29 lb Width: 149 cm Depth: 39 cm Height: 149 cm Max load/shelf: 13 kg Product dimensions Width: 17 3/8 "Depth: 15 3/8 " Height: 72 7/8 " Max load/shelf: 29 lb Width: 44 cm Depth: 39 cm Height: 185 cm Max load/shelf: 13 kg
  20. Promo code is needed to get the price down the extra $200, offer expires 2-15. Maybe there will be the next offer? At these prices I decided to pick up one more (for a total of 2), with the thought that I can sell it for what I paid a year or two down the road if I changed my mind. Accuracy is great with these RW12d units, I still regret selling my sub 12 for its room shaking quality's for movies like the transformers. My friend loves it. The record for UPS is two crushed units before the third arrived intact inside of a crushed box. We'll see if UPS will try to smash their record and go for 3 crushed sub-woofers this time. I would love to see their warehouse where all of the crushed speakers and amps find their final resting place. It must be big.
  21. I would not glue the dowels, the units stay together as designed.
  22. You can also get a number of the individual 5 cube tall by 1 wide units and line them up, very flexible and very sturdy. If you wanted to add a backing, a 1/4 Masonite sheet should do the trick, you could probably fasten it into place with some screws and clear silicone adhesive all the way around. Very sturdy
  23. I am up to my eye-balls in amps, and I am now experimenting with various pre-amps. So far, the Vintage Yamaha's are pretty darn good. Soon, I will be experimenting with using my Pioneer HTS as the pre-amp fronting 3 Class A Yamaha amps. Emotiva has on paper a pretty good modern pre-amp, is there anything else near it in this price performance range. I may pick up a mint used to put it side by side with my Mac and Yamaha and have a bake off. Having said that, transparent should be transparent? Any suggestions on FAVs both modern and vintage (Yamaha)? I will be running the pre-amps through Mac and Yamaha amps and driving my La Scalas.
  24. Consider buying a used TOTL line Pioneer receiver and using it as the pre-amp DAC, you should be able to get one for a few hundred dollars. You can pre-amp anything you like this way. My suggestion is to pick up a Yamaha MX-800 Class A A-B 170WRMS power amp. Set the gain controls at 12 so you don't tear your speakers apart. $350 mint MX 800. The pioneer can be used on direct from the DAC to the pre-amp section. Check out the TOTL pre HDMI interface receivers with the best decoder chips, this things will also pump 120WRMS over 7 channels and have a LP Sub out you can jack a sub into.
  25. I will say that it depends on the application. If you are going straight stereo, I would keep the top 2 or 3 and deploy them around the house. If you are using them behind your HTS receiver in order to get Class A sound, they I would choose my favorite and buy or trade for 3 more just like it so you can run 5.1 or 7.1 in Class A. YMMV
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