mustang guy

For those of you who want the internal amp to last longer, add a small fan to cool the MOSFET's. I've bricked plenty of these things. I'm still running a Klipsch sub that I repaired a decade ago and added a little fan to. No problems at all. It was like this kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335357448179 OP, if I were you, I would look into that for the one you are trying to sell, and definitely put one in the one you paid to fix.

This old google drive share I did years ago apparently wasn’t accessible due to a security update. I thought I’d post the new share here since I can’t remember where I posted it in the first place. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_-5nvuxy-j7d3V6aEc0WjZvMUk?resourcekey=0-RbbLeVsITTyWlEj4O-HTNg

A crossover is an internal part of a loudspeaker with passive components like capacitors, inductors and resistors which sends the appropriate signal to each driver within the loudspeaker. I assume you aren't meddling inside your speaker. Could you explain better what you hope to learn?

That little WiFi receiver is quite good. If you own an amp already, all you need is a 5VDC power supply for it and WiFi in the house. I have an iPhone, so I can push music to is using Apple Airplay, but it also supports DNLA. What's more, it has built in Pandora and other things where you can pretty much log it in to the station and leave. Heck of a device for $30! I bought 2 of them, so I'm not sure what I will do with the other one. edit: I want to add that I can open iTunes on my computer and push music to it from there as well. edit2: Added link to 5VDC power supply.

I upgraded the amp section to a Fisher AZ80:

I need to add a power switch. I was thinking of maybe doing one of these with a Fisher 80AZ as the amp section rather than the el-cheapo Chineseum class D which had to be modified to give bass and remove about 50% of the noise.

They must have started usin' summa them metric rulers in the factree.

Road trips for speakers are always fun!

reserved for future doodling.

That says "Klipsch, 260 °F Speaker Stands" So it's not even an advertisement for speakers. Buyer beware!!!!

Don't put the sub volume pot at max. Find something in mid-volume and leave it there. Now use the AVR or whatever processor to balance that setting to the system you are tuning to.

No specific plastic. ABS pellets and Delrin, for instance, are not too expensive at about $1.89 per lb plus freight. If your bass box weight 50#, then the raw material costs would be $95. The injection extrusion of sheets wouldn't be too expensive once you paid for the die and tooled up for it. A raw 3/4" sheet of one of these polymers would be idea for making outdoor and marine enclosures.

When I made my first tuba, I had fun running the resonant frequency of my garage. All 3 doors would vibrate and the room would feel like I was sitting inside a giant air compressor tank. I think that may be why some of my florescent light fixtures are kinda coming down.

The surround rears are simply the rears and as far as I know always monaural, even in theaters (unless Atmos is not?). Surround sides are stereo in all of them. You should be using sides connection in a 5.x system anyway even though they are behind the LP.

I have strongly considered building BB and SW enclosures using thick polymer sheeting. Although wood may be the perfect material from nature, it is also susceptible to nature taking it back. The right plastic could be bomb resistant, waterproof, high tensile strength, high compressive strength, as thick as you want, any color you want including clear, fire resistant, and UV resistant. I live in a region along the Ohio River where chemical plants who manufacture plastics are ubiquitous. In fact, as a 3PL, I actually store and handle 1,000 lb gaylord's full of it. I wonder why this isn't used more in loudspeaker production. Do you suppose it is more costly, fastening is not durable enough, or what?