mustang guy

Glad to help. Hope it is the fuse and not something more critical internally. Let us know what you find out.

longdrive. It may not be a huge difference in DCR, but the impedance may be very different as it is measured ACR and at varying frequencies. Which Eminence driver have you got? I can put the specs into WinISD and let you know.

Chief: I would have assumed Roy was a moderator by virtue of his position at Klipsch. DWI: I have a question for counsel. Is moderation a violation of our First Amendment rights?

Here are my thoughts. If the tungsten gets to about 800F dim, the resistance would be 2.85 X 64 watts (800F = 700K), or 182.4 Ohm resistor. A 200 Ohm resistor should work. Something like this Caddock MP2060-200-1% would do. You will need to mount it to a heat sink like one from an old CPU with thermal grease, and make sure it has ventilation. At least with a resistor, you won't have an incandescent bulb glowing.

That's an Awesome soundtrack. Brings back memories! This one does too:

Gotta love them Soggy Bottom Boys...

This was literally on MTV twice an hour:

As CECAA850 mentions. The phillips head looking thing by the power cord input. Either like this: or this: Note the different fuse ratings. You want slow blow type with the ampers listed on the chassis (3.15 or 2.5 / 250v)

Those look to be in pretty good nick. $400 was lucky. I expect that if the people wouldn't have screwed up that picture, they would have cost you $1300-1500. No guts no glory as they say. I believe those have the K-43 woofer rather than the K-33 woofer. It has a bigger magnet and can take more wattage. If you don't like the way they sound as-is, why not sell them? If you chop them up and start "upgrading" them, you are devaluing them. You could ask $1450 and sell the things and buy speakers you actually like the way they are. There is some bloke in Atlanta who'd love to have a crack at 'em.

One last thing. UV filters really do make outdoor images look better and they protect your lens https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/72715-REG/Tiffen_58UVP_58mm_UV_Protector.html. They screw right on the end of the lens. Your lens cap then fits on them.

BTW Jason, you have a zoom lens. 28mm to 80mm is the range of zoom. The lower the mm, the wider the viewport (zoomed out). You can get zoom lenses that can do 300mm which aren't really that expensive if you are interested. https://www.amazon.com/Canon-75-300mm-Telephoto-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B016SN92V0?SubscriptionId=AKIAI62SSPLIHX7AR6PA&tag=lenshero-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B016SN92V0. They can really reach out there. Here are 50 sample pics. Note the top right where it indicates the mm the photo is zoomed in to: http://lenshero.com/lens/Canon-EF-75-300mm-f4-5.6-III-gallery-39

Thanks Jeff. That guy is hilarious! Made my night!

Kids are the meanest people. If they were lurking and trolling you here you would want to shoot yourself in the head. Look through some of the unabridged youtube replies. Stop in on Reddit some time. If there is political correctness in that generation, I have yet to see it. The problem here is the thin skin of some of the people here. There is a big difference in an intellectual debate and personal attacks. The personal attacks come from the ones with thin skin. You show me a way for people not to be so defensive of themselves that they become tyrants, and I will show you a forum with some real intellectual flaming.

This is true. Wide angle lenses distort the more you zoom out. That is the reason I posted the link of the 50 images taken with that lens. That gives you the ability to judge for yourself if the distortion is acceptable. What you do not want is a fish eye. It has a very large field of view (FOV), but distorts like crazy. See for yourself:

At 28mm, that lens can see as wide as 65° X 25°. This Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II SLR Lens can see 96.7° - 64°. Here is a link of 50 pictures taken with that lense: http://lenshero.com/lens/Canon-EF-S-10-18mm-f4.5-5.6-IS-STM-gallery-12

A 15 watt tungsten bulb on a 120 AC circuit will be equal to a 960 Ohm resistor hot and approximately 64 watt resistor cold. The reason for this difference can be seen here: http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2004/DeannaStewart.shtml This will do the 1kohm but you need a heat sink. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Caddock/MP2060-100K-1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBILAbzA1esnyy2x%2fU3bBSnlE%3d Wait a minute... When you dim the LED's with the 15 watt light in series, the light dims as the LED's do. That means the resistance of the light bulb lowers as the tungsten cools. You may need as low as a 64 watt resistor to pull this off. Does the 15 watt bulb dim as you dim the LED's?

Yeah if Dean did them, no problem with that. You say you reversed the wiring. Does that mean you kept the same network in the same speaker and powered it? If that is so, have you tried swapping the networks into the different speaker cabs to rule out a failing tweeter and midrange on the offending speaker?

BTW, I don't know why they didn't just use a radial cap in that PCB.

Are those caps bi-polar (BP)? If so, it doesn't matter which direction they are wired into that PCB. In fact, you cannot use a polar cap in a crossover.

What low voltage transformer and 36' LED rope are you using? The answer to these problems needs to start with the specs/details of those two things. Here is a resistance calculator for LED's, but you need to know: Supply Voltage Voltage Drop Across LED Desired LED Current in mA The calculator will return: Calculated Limiting Resistor Ω Calculated Resistor Wattage There are more tools available here: LED Information and Technical Data On the deck lights I just installed, I used this device to turn the ropes off: GE 57883 Outdoor Outlet Receiver Module, RF Controls Lights/Appliances. This is like a garage door opener remote control. I don't know if you want to use something like this, but it would certainly work on the high voltage side of the dimmer.

That's really going to look nice yet still be a very strong motorboard.

You're right meeker1, but it might be a bit early to start recommending stuff like f-stops, ASA, delays and shutter speeds etc to Jason. For now, it's point and click. The best pictures are usually the ones that are in a nice looking environment. Staged photographs of goods sell for more money than LetGo/craigslist smartphone shot type stuff. If you drape a curtain over a table, it is an instant presentation stage. Folds and curves of the drapery make a nice setting.

Can you just make two passes? Cut half the depth with the first pass, plunge the router deeper to make the second pass to the 7/8 depth? That way the bearing is always riding on the original hole wall. Does that sound like it would work?

In a way, that passive looks like a K-33. Could it be possible that they used a K-33 without the magnet as a passive? Do you have any pictures of the back frame and are there any little numbers stamped anywhere?? Here is my K-33 redo thread. The pics look a lot like what you have there, but I can't see the frame etc in your pics. Wouldn't that be a stroke of luck...

If you have the right measuring equipment and 1 good chorus, you could put in a run of mill passive from PE and add weight until you get the tuning as close as possible. The trouble with having a different Thiele/Small spec on the passive is that is made for that box and that woofer for a specific tune. You can increase the mass of the passive's cone but you cannot decrease it. You also cannot influence how stiff the passive is (CMS). It's a tough problem, but without the T/S spacs on the Chorus' passive, you are flying in the dark without instruments.