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Posts posted by tubesandhorns

  1. Glens,

    Thanks for the input.  Shorting rings are added to lower distortion and (I believe) flatten impedance, but I can't say if these are helpful at my listening room levels.  That is the information that I am seeking.  I think that I am fine to buy standard model, that is for sure, but it is worth my while to seek some insight from anyone who has compared them... if such a person exists and is on this forum.  I used my current EV1824M for over 30 years, I would like to repeat that success of selecting, buying, and then stop thinking about it.  While I'm at it though, I should show diligence.

  2. I intend to upgrade to BMS 4592ND-Mid drivers for a 3 way horn system, tube amps, passive crossovers.  I have heard conflicting opinions from 2 parties whom I respect- one says that the 4592HE is the way to go because for minimal additional cost it adds a shorting ring that lowers distortion and flattens out impedance.  The other says that HE is for high power, and for my home stereo it adds nothing.  I see some threads about shorting rings and some unanswered questions about these specific drivers, but do any of you have any experience directly comparing these or similar drivers with and without shorting rings?

  3. I am upgrading my speakers with a new mid horn and driver.  Right now I have a Fastlane LaScala tractrix (1 3/8" throat), and will upgrade to a BMS 4592 with a Volti FC260ii (2" throat).  I am chomping at the bit, but Greg is pretty tied up and I won't see the horns until later this year... which I understand- so now problem with that.  So my question- can I do this incrementally, that is, what happens if I get the BMS or other 2" drivers now and I either bolt them or use the Eminence HA14-2 to put them on the Fastlanes until the Voltis arrive?  I see posts that describe going from a small driver to a large throat horn, but this is the other way around.  Thanks

  4. I am thinking of upgrading the mids on my 3-way horn system to a Volti FC260 tractrix, but am undecided on the driver.  Many phenomenal systems have been built using the BMS 4592ND-MID (around $650 each), so that is a top contender.  Much of what I read, and a little of what I have physically auditioned, however swears by Beryllium... which seem significantly absent from posts.  Admittedly that was with Classic Audio Systems that had not only Beryllium but also field coil drivers Beryllium plus field coil is out of my price range - and it's impossible to separate variables.  Looking at new Beryllium, Radian drivers look amazing... except for the prices: 760NEOBePB at $850 each, or the 950BePB at $1100.  True, that is a big increase, but in the long run... in for a penny in for a pound.  Three years from now I will have forgotten about the extra money. So... anyone out there have insights or experience on this?  I am probably willing to spend the dough, but would rather not unless truly a significant step up.  I tri-amp so efficiency is not an issue, and I am satisfied with all other specs.


  5. I started with k77's then tried beyma, then atp200 which I liked then fostex 90a's which I love and still use.

    Canyonman, I found this statement fascinating.  I have been thinking about jumping from my T-35 to some ribbons, and would be interested in any insights from your process or conclusions that landed you running the 90a's.


    After posting this, I found this string: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/151425-fostex-tweeters/

    Answers my questions, but any further insight is helpful.  I have read a lot about the above-hearing frequencies adding to the spaciousness.  Was that your experience as well?

  6. I have become intrigued with discussions of the reported improvements to system sound afforded by the addition of super tweeters- specifically the air and coherence.  Being in my late ‘50s, I am less concerned about the frequency extension and more concerned about how it affects what I can hear.  My question is this- my amp goes to 20kHz, do I need an extended frequency range amp for driving this? 

    Same question for digital crossovers like the DCX2496.



  7. I have added a picture of a chip in the formica that I forgot about on the side near the bottom back corner... remember these aren't from a living room, they were in a studio.  And as much as we all love Todd, these go way beyond his recordings.  These speakers have seen music history being made, check out the link and read some of the bands…




    Thanks for looking.


  8. These are Heresy 1 speakers which were used at Bearsville Studio as monitors, and I don’t have to remind you of the classic albums which came out of that studio.  I will include a copy of the receipt on Bearsville letterhead from when I bought them.  I was a HUGE Todd fan and had to have them, but am now downsizing…

    Some modifications:

    • 4 screw holes on the top for hanging from the ceiling at Bearsville
    • Todd had them covered in this funky brown formica, which has the advantage of really making the cabinets non-resonant.  This is my third pair of Heresies, and they are head and shoulders above stock in cabinet rigidity.
    • I replaced the capacitor with films, but left the originals (which were still working) in place in case I ever wanted to return to stock.

    They play well and sound great.  A good price on a pair of Heresies with some cool history.  I wanted to give forum members first shot before ebay.


    The pair are $500 plus shipping from North Carolina in two boxes.




    • Like 1

  9. Thanks tigerwoodKhorns, but I was referring to the modification that I frequently see on this forum where the doghouse volume is increased by adding a 10" section at the bottom, and 2 ports are tuned to lower the bass cutoff to mid-30's. I was asking if and how that would be done with the 8" woofers.

  10. OK, this is one of the coolest things I have seen in a

    while, much thanks to djk and the forum for introducing me to this idea.

    So here’s my question: if one were to do this in a La Scala,

    how would the extended/ported doghouse play into it for extending the

    bass? How would one calculate the size

    of the chamber extension and ports, if they were needed at all? I am very curious about how the listening

    tests go.

  11. "I'm not sure what you mean, the four drivers are wired push-pull..."

    Oh, I see what you mean... guess I should read more carefully before typing. I thought that you were loading the drivers isobarically, and didn't notice that the slot was between them. Very sweet. So how do they sound, and how does this affect the frequency extremes? Did you need to extend the box like with the ports or anything? This is truly fascinating, thanks for posting..

  12. I have been toying with making what I call SuperScalas- ported La Scala bottoms, CP25 tweeter, and a BMS4592 coupled to probably either a Volti FC260, a Eliptrac, or a Stereo-Lab CF250... as illustrated. If I seal off the top and port that, I can put the tweeter on that section and put the mid horn on top. This looks pretty much perfect to me. Only remaining question (yeah, right) is to port out the front or port out the back. Dave touched on that briefly a couple of years ago, but I was wondering if any of you have any experience with playing with that variable.
    Any thoughts out there?
    Also, if I have drastically missed something, when you get up off the floor from laughing I would love to hear what that is.


  13. I don’t think that I posed my question well
    enough. Arguably, over the years there
    have been deficiencies with K-horns that are addressed by DIY hobbyists- such
    as the mid horn and the crossover. My
    question was intended to ask if the current production addressed those

    An analogy
    might be the Fender Telecaster guitar.
    Tele players over the years might replace the pickups with humbuckers,
    or add a third pickup, or change a tone capacitor. Fender saw this, learned from it, and now
    offer factory models that are outfitted with the popular tweaks.

    So, I was
    wondering if Klipsch has addressed the issues usually tweaked by DIYers, or
    might one be better off buying a used pair and hot rodding the myself.

  14. I read with great interest all of the updates and upgrades
    available for this venerable masterpiece, and am wondering how a new production
    unit would compare sonically to a vintage item that has been tricked out with
    new crossover, tractrix mid horn, 2” (BMS 4592) driver, etc. Anybody experience with this? By the time I buy a fairly recent used
    K-horn, add all of the above, etc, I am approaching the cost of a brand new

    While we’re at it, I see MDF is used in part of the current
    K-Horn, any body know what is plywood and what is MDF?

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