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Posts posted by 001

  1. 6 hours ago, ODS123 said:

    Did he really say that? Omg, he definitely would not be welcomed in most audiophile circles.

    PWK was Welcomed by all Audiophile circles   , although  He was not one to accept all the invitations ....... PWK's Friends in the Speaker Industry , were  all the Giants in the Business , and amongst all of them , He was never challenged , some tried , but most failed .

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  2. 1 hour ago, Antone said:

    Watching Danny at GR Research has given me to want to try experimenting with replacing all ferrous components in the speaker signal signal path. I decided to replace with solid brass #6-32 machine screws all the original steel ones in the binding posts and internal barrier strip of each Heresy 1.5.  I had replaced the iron cored woofer inductor with a Jantzen air core as of my last post. Although I had years before eliminated the need for the T2A autotransformer in the tweeter branch with a third-order, 7 kHz hi pass filter and a better (Eminence 1001 ASD) tweeter driver which was slightly less sensitive overall than the original K77, for the squawker I was still using the T2A for its 9-dB voltage reduction and eightfold impedance increase, thereby enabling the continued use of a 2-muF poly cap for the 16 ohm-squawker’s required 620-Hz hi-pass filter. 
    Using high quality, low inductance 20-watt bifilar ceramic tube-core resistors I made a -9.8 dB L-pad (@15 ohms) to accomplish  approximately the volume reduction that the T2A had yielded. Since an L pad (ideally) does not change the driver impedance it was necessary to increase the hi pass cap to 16 muF (@15ohms) for a 650 Hz squawker hi pass filter. 
    My last post mentioned a 8.35 muF/ 9.1 ohm Zobel shunt across the squawker terminals to roll off (gently) its rising upper end. With the new L-pad I decided to omit the Zobel before measuring. 
    Third-octave pink noise RTA measurements after all these circuit modifications showed a large improvement in overall midrange balance and in flatness from 600 Hz to 4000 Hz. Indeed the Zobel was no longer necessary. However, the tweeter now had a  steeply rising high end above 13 kHz, and the L-pad’s lack of phase shift required inverting the squawker polarity, which in turn, required inverting the tweeter polarity, compared to my previous design. 
    I bled off the tweeter rise (+5 dB at 20 kHz) with a 1.22 muF [16kHz] capacitance shunted across the tweeter terminals. 
    This is by far the sweetest, best imaged and most transparent and neutral sound I have achieved with my Heresy’s. 

    Apart from these changes ,  the  midrange Driver you have in the Heresy 1,5 , could be the K-52H  or the K-53-K   but if you ever have a chance to try out  a K-55V , I think you would be very pleased .


    1 hour ago, NADman said:

    Yes. Found ARC . Called HDMI 4.

    I think this might work for you .. plugs into the HDMI-ARC port ..........turn ARC on the TV Menu , turn off speakers , and change the audio output type on the TV Menu




    HDMI ARC Adapter, Tendak ARC Audio Extractor with Digital Optical TOSLINK SPDIF/Coaxial and Analog 3.5mm L/R Stereo Audio Converter .



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  4. On 4/29/2022 at 6:29 AM, Ashley said:


    After contacting Klipsch Customer Service, they noticed me that they are updating firmware update flow so that the link of firmware update  cannot be access yet.


    Thanks for the reply, will wait Klipsch to finish link update of firmware update.


    great news .

  5. klipsch recommends to break in  speakers  for 100 hours

    How and Why to Break in your New Speakers

    Brittainy Kelley
    November 14, 2017

    How and why to break in your new speakers

    Once you’ve purchased a brand new set of speakers, you’ll probably want to set them up and get to the good part - playing them. However, be prepared for the fact that for the first several hours of use (the break-in period), they won’t be quite to their maximum potential. The good news is your speakers will absolutely sound better after the initial break-in period. In fact, you may want to take care of this step right away so you are more quickly able to enjoy your speakers at their best.

    Your speakers contain several moving parts but prior to use, they’ve never actually moved before. Essentially, pieces of the assembly like the spider and the surround will be stiff at first. Due to the rigidness of your new speakers, they will not be as dynamic until they have had a chance to move and become more flexible. Moral of the story? Don’t be afraid to break them in.

    Now that you understand why breaking in is important, how do you do it? The easiest answer is simply to play music. However, to break your speakers in well, you’ll want to play something with a large dynamic range, something with solid deep bass, as well as something with a strong high end. Music capable of both will be able to push the speaker to their extremes regularly. You will want to play the music loud, not max volume, just louder than normal. Doing this will help the break-in period occur faster. It will also help to use music that you know well, as you will be able to recognize when the magic starts to happen.

    How long you want to break in your speakers is one of those audiophile questions that doesn’t necessarily have a right or wrong answer. 100 hours? You’re in great shape. If this seems unattainable, just continue the break-in period with your favorite music and movies as you would normally enjoy them.

    Invite friends or family over to help break them in. Put on your favorite tunes, rock, repeat and the before you know it the break-in period will be over and your speakers will be performing at their maximum potential



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