eq_shadimar

Coolies thanks. I got out an old toothbrush and cleaned the years of dust off and sure enough the right side terminal has some red on it. As always you guys are awsome!!! Now excuse me while I go hook these babies up!!! ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

My brand new to me 1979 Cornwalls just arrived but I have a quesition I would like answered before I hook them. Can one of the experts here tell me which side of the terminal block is + and which is -? Does it matter on these speakers? Thanks! ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Thanks for all the help. Tomorrow is the red letter day. I am getting an SVS woofer and Cornwalls delivered on the same day!!! I can't wait! I have a bunch of stuff to do to get everything ready but it will all be worth it Laters, ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

I will be getting my Cornwall's shortly but I will have to re-arrange my current setup to fit them in. I am guessing that the best placement would be in corners but I may not be able to make that happen. So can I just follow normal placment techiques or are there some special tricks that would help? I am thinking about 2 ft from the wall slightly toed in and about 10 apart as a strat and then adjusting from there. ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Cool thanks. This was great information. I have just purchased some Cornwall's and this really helped to fill me in on these awsome speakers! Thanks ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Dang well now I can't wait for mine. I have just purchased a pair of Cornwall's myself (details in another thread) but I have to wait a week or so for them. I have a very little car and those suckers just won't fit in there. I have begged a friend with a truck to help me but it will be a week or so. The SVS subwoofer comes in on Wed so my neighbors are going to hate me I just know it :-) ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Thanks for all the responses. I did as you all suggested and browsed the forum. The Cornwall's certainly seem like awsome speakers and at $500 much too good of a deal to pass up. Now my only problem will be where to put them but I have several large rooms so I will figure something out. I was thinking of dusting off my Dad's old Fisher 800C tube receiver and making a true "vintage" system. I an going try running the second zone line level output of my HK into the AUX in on the Fisher. I think it should sound awsome! I seem to recall that the Fisher puts out 75 watts per channel or so it should make the Cornwall's rock. Sigh..my SVS 20-39 is coming on Wen. That in addition to the Cornwall's rocking will certainly make my neighbors hate me. Oh well they will have to stay and enjoy the sound :-) ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Here is another take on the bi-wiring deal. I am not sure how the crossovers are hooked up in the RF-3's but bi wiring a speaker or as Paul suggested taking a normal piece of zip cord and twisting the wires together to form a single conductor should yeild some benefits. Why? Well wires act as resistors and when you put two resistors of the same value in parallel to each other you half the resistance. Therefore if a normal wire run has a resistance of 1 ohm then performing this simple upgrade will yeild a resistance of .5 ohm. This, in theory, should yeild faster response and of course result in less cable loss. ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

Hey guys I have a chance to pick up a pair of Cornwalls Type C-BR's and I have some questions. 1) First what does the model number signify? 2) I think that these are II's and not I's is there anyway to know for sure and what is the difference? If they are II's are they still worth getting? 3) I currently have the R*-3 setup for HT in my house would the Cornwall's be a good match with the RS-3's and RC-3? Meaning of course I would replace the almost brandy new RF-3's and then have to decide what to do with them and the KG4's. 4) What would be a reasonable price for these speakers? I need to say that I have not ever heard Cornwall's before (I got into Klipsch with the KG4's) and these speakers are currently not hooked up (being that they are in someone's basement collecting dust at the moment). They have not been used in awhile but everyone's recollection is that they still work and the only reason that they are not being used is that they are too big. So open up the floodgates guys and let me know what ya all think. Thanks! ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

For what it is worth here is a site with some double blind testing. http://oeonline.com/~djcarlst/abx_wire.htm They show no difference but as always your ears should be the judge. ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

I remember reading in a previous thread that this is ok. The Klipsch tech said that since the drivers were all in the same "family" that it would not be an issue. ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

All this is very interesting as I am just going through this mess myself. The article posted and all you guys here have been very helpful. This is what I finally ended up doing. I am definatly under woofed (that should be fixed via an SVS woofer and good ole Uncle Sam here shortly) but I ended up setting all my speakers to small and seting the AVR crossover at 80Hz and LFE only. This sounded great for movies but not so hot for music (again el'cheapo "bass module" not a true sub). The HK 510 will let me store different settings for different inputs so on my CD input I have the front speakers set to large and a cross over of 40Hz with Mains+LFE so the sub is active in 2 channel mode. In all cases the filter on the sub is set full open. Hopefully when the SVS arrives it will solve all these issues and I will finally get to anoy my neighbors. The HK 510 will let you choose a crossover 40 or 60 with fronts set to large and 80 or 100 with the fronts set to small. This is in addition to all the normal sub yes/no, LFE or LFE+Main selections. So it seems more flexible (maybe) than some of the other AVR's mentioned here ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

I had the same question. The HK manual for the AVR 510 that I purchased stated that all lenghts should be the same. I have a 43' run to the surround and didn't really want to coil that much wire for the center and mains. I am afraid of noise being induced and creating hum. Looks like there is no good answer. The 510 uses the EzSet feature and it boosted the rears 4db over the rest of the system with unequal length runs. I guess if the amp can balance the difference it won't matter. ------------------ HT - RF-3's RC-3 RS-3's (white) Advent Powered Sub Harman Kardon AVR 510 PC - ProMedia 4.1 Bedroom - KG4's Harman kardon AVR 20 MKII