MikeFord

Make sure all the drivers are working properly. Horn drivers usually are OK or totally blown with no sound, woofer are just as likely to be damaged, overheated with voice coils rubbing etc. as they are to have a total no sound failure. At low volume listen to each driver with your ear close enough to it to isolated sound from other drivers masking a failure.

Digging around in some boxes of hifi stuff I found two small black boxes from Crites, CD76 TiM, near as I can guess this is a titanium diaphragm that replaces and/or upgrades a number of Klipsch tweeters, those in my Forte's as well as CF-4. Purchased years ago along with some woofers to replace a scratcher in one of the Forte's, I liked the sound with the woofer fixed so never got around to doing more. Any opinions on these replacement diaphragms?

BINGO Pulled the tweeter horn just now and Red post was loose with the wire hanging. Checked the driver and 7 ohms, so should be good. Seems weird to me, but the wire that was loose has about an inch of blue shrink and is tied in a knot (not tight).

I generally like the sound, kind of getting a taste of Klipsch and horn character. If I head into different drivers it won't be to mod one of old speakers, but a start from scratch design using whatever is best within my budget aiming for a separate subwoofer handling all the bass below 60 to 80 hz, which changes the size etc of the mains a lot.

My gateway drug to Klipsch was a pair of old Hersey going cheap for local pickup on ebay. When I picked them up turned out both woofers were damaged, one of them kicked in with most of the cone destroyed. Cheap got even cheaper, but then for various reasons not til years later, this weekend I finally fixed them, and they sound great. What took so long included buying wrong and/or bad replacement woofers twice and one damaged in shipping, plus finding a set of Forte's and then CF-4's. One woofer had some damage at the surround that has a messy looking some kind of glue repair, and the dust cap poked in some (which I will fix), but I don't hear any issues in the sound, so 2nd k22 replacement is staying in its shipping box for now. K77 was open circuit in the kicked in woofer speaker, but a friend gave me a EV T35 from a garage sale, and it seems to be working fine as a replacement. One note, I used the wires from the kicked in woofer, and they appear shorter than the normal tweeter wire. I had to use the bottom connections on the barrier strip to get them to reach. I haven't decided yet on trying to replace the diaphragm on the open K77, or what to do with my growing collection of bad woofers given the cost with a bit of patience for a working drivers vs repair or even parts.

My system has no analog stages prior to the output to the speakers, so for me I wouldn't even consider anything but digital.

A little Google did not locate TS parameters for the DH1506, but EV does have data sheets that show eq networks, but all before the amp, not directly to the speaker. OTOH how different are various HF compression drivers? Seems to me most are made to roughly be interchangeable. Any tricks or gotchas I should be aware of when opening these speakers up (pulling the tweeter and checking the crossover)?

Most important thing for me with a sub is does it blend with the mains. If the transition isn't fairly seamless it doesn't last long with me.

Looks gone, post expired, just a wtb up now trying to reach the original seller.

Back in my lets try any crazy wire stage, I used some submarine battery cable, no clue on the gauge, but it was heavy, maybe a 1/3 inch in diameter of fine copper stands in each cable. Sounded nice, but I didn't keep it. Some of the big bass guys I used to talk with ran Crown macrotech big amps, 1000 or so real watts, and several of them. Its one way to go, but not my choice. Regards clippiing, not really much of an issue with a pure subwoofer. Heat is RMS power, clipping the waveform doesn't change the heat much. Distortion is usually both low enough and out of band so its not noticed. Musical transients start with big peaks, and few if any bass speakers don't have a MUCH more gradual output response, so you don't get the peak first output regardless of clipping (if the signal level changes rapidly, its not bass, its higher frequency components)..

Some like magic, some would rather peek behind the curtain and know how it works. Besides if you don't know how it works you don't have much chance at doing anything to make it work better.

Living in Socal has its perks, one is that there are hundreds of studios and sound companies. I've even seen, back in the day where I had zero idea of what they were, TAD drivers at a local swap meet along with a bunch of gear from a guy who specialized in gutting out old studios. Now I have list of stuff to keep an eye out for, but don't see that much lately. Ebay is the bane of good local deals. Why pine vs mdf, pine and most solid wood will have big resonance point?

Stock factory condition almost always is the fastest seller, while many here would pay extra for the Crites upgrades, 90% of the public will be less inclined. Do it to enjoy them yourself, don't get too hung up on what they may or may not self for at some future date.

Short version; CF-4 needs tweeter diaphragm or driver replaced. My usual snails pace, over the last three days I finally shuffled around our living room and parked my Forte's and hooked up the set of Epic CF-4 speakers I bought about a year ago. These are freaking heavy speakers, 108 lbs each, much grunting and groaning, finally hit play and ..... one tweeter isn't working. OTOH seems like the other 5 drivers are fine, but a bit more checking is on the table before I do anything. Not fair to compare with one bad tweeter, but the sound is VERY different from my Forte speakers. Anybody has a spare tweeter driver that is known good, I will either buy or send mine off to Crites for repair. I may do that regardless, but I am also considering use of EV DH1506. Kicking myself on the EV as there was a pair local to me for $75 and I was too busy to go buy them. I always like to get a good item back to proper stock operation condition before making any changes, but I do have the usual list of mods at the back of my mind. These are not the first version, info I think is in my sig. Ultimately they will be used with a subwoofer with the mains high passed no lower than 60 hz, so the ports may not matter.

Depends on the goal, a working amp, likely no, an education on how amps work and fail, maybe. I'll make a wild guess the mosfet was the "fuse" for some other failure point. Picts might help with regards to the spacer.

BINGO - Clicked on my name and looked around again, clicked on name and held it down and selected SETTINGS, and sig lives as one of those options. BTW I "think" I turned view signatures back on, its not very clear, but I do see your "Gear in Profile" sig. Thanks to all for the help, I was lost.

Sometimes I think the primary aspect of the audiophile hobby is paranoia about the system/room sounding right.

What I see is a totally blank form, nothing suggesting its the sig, and changing the about me and the your system fields made no change. Is my sig hiding or something, do you see a 4 line description of my system starting with Forte FB?

Maybe a senior moment, but how do I edit my sig, I have speakers to add.

As I understand it, subs close together and effectively the area of the drivers combines increasing efficiency, subs apart and the interaction is much less coherent which may allow fewer hot spots and overall smoother response, but not much if any gain in efficiency.

Apart from SQ, the idea of a metal plate as a physical part of my speaker cabinet annoys me, putting all the amp bits inside the cabinet seems even worse. The other non SQ issue I have is access to the controls, as a likely spot for a sub, where my current sub is located, has the controls buried in the corner to allow the woofer to face out in the room. Third non SQ issue, Calif electric rates, I pay close to $0.30/KWhr, so I want close to zero power when off, and as high of efficiency when running as I can get. Forth non SQ issue is flexibility with several different subs, why put an amp in each one instead of a Speakon jack?

I've been thinking about a speaker testing system since before WTS, and it seems like DATS V2 has settled into a decent product with no reason to expect a strong competitor or changes in price or function, so maybe I'm ready to get one and clear up the boxes of misc speakers waiting for projects. I already have the calibrated mic that plugs into smart phones, but only played with it a couple times. Any opinions by users here? Seems great for woofers and subwoofers, but is it useful with compression drivers and other Klipsch type stuff? DATS link at PE http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v2-computer-based-audio-component-test-system--390-806

Its late and maybe I missed something in the thread, but why not buy the best remastered from original tapes versions? Many, especially on vinyl, have been processed in ways that can't be undone, not to mention use of third or worse generation tapes etc.

Quick look on ebay shows about $50 for a replacement woofer (RF-5?), so depending on what still works around $100. Of course depends on how badly somebody wants to buy one.

We have a dedicated, mostly, mediaPC with about 8TB of storage with another 6TB on a NAS. We have wifi for portables, but everything else is wired with gigabit Ethernet. MediaPC goes to the big system via Toslink or HDMI. Rest of family likes streaming sources direct to their devices from the net, like Youtube or Netflix, me not so much. I don't care for Bluetooth audio at all, we don't even use it in the car anymore after comparing to Aux analog input, but I don't have the latest "audio" Bluetooth that is supposed to be better. BTW I have two old all digital end to end Sony receivers, a 3000ES and 7100ES, both do the DAC in output stage including volume control etc.