GBShade684

Stephen, That's a good point, but witha cross over at 80Hz, would you expect to see an impedance dip that large? Would you expect one at all?

I went used on a pair of RF82s, not the II version. Paid $425 plus an orbital sander []. Still have a big smile on my face just thinking about them(can only think about them because I am in the UK right now[:@]. Got a CL deal and went to demo them. I, like many above, would encourage you to look at used speakers. Guy I got mine from said he bought them in 2010 from an authorized dealer. Doesn't matter much because buying a used pair from some guy voids the warranty anyway. I'm sure someone on here lives close to you and may let you have a listen. Also, while I am happy with the bass production from the 82s, I am going subwoofer next. The clarity and efficiency of the speakers makes me feel this is definitely the route to go(plus 0 WAF for a RC-64!).

lag bolts? []

fini...unfortuante boat we both share. Main reason I quit. Everyone just giggling, and me freaking out in a corner.

Why would the length of the wire run be predicated on the resistance on the load? Is it the resistance of the wire in addition to the load? Not sure why the applicable distances would be 1/2 for a 4 ohms load, I would think it would be the other way around...clarifications?

Two more PW-2200's up on audiogon for $400 each...can't get buy in from the wife. She's not happy I am still paying for my RF82s and all required equipment/furniture. Found a RW-8 on CL for $65 but no response from poster. I think I may hate that more than anything.

I think Stephen may have a good thought here. I have the 82s and the bass really doesn't appear until I turn them up quite a bit, usually above WAF, so it doesn't happen very often. I don't manually adjust the bass output(unless playing MW3), because as you said it tends to muddy things up. I have never used an SPL of dB meter so I couldn't tell you the actual output levels where I am seeing the bass, but a normal listening levels, it is not powerful...

That picture makes my woofer rumble...

My wife and I just finished off a pot last night. With beans and corn so BAM! White chicken chili is next on the list.

Thanks. Unfortunately without contact lenses or glasses, those good eyes are not so good.

Bottom picture looked like it said KG 4.2.

Anyone have experience with these subs? If I could get it for $200 seem like a decent deal? http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?homesubw&1327862723&/Paradigm-DSP-3100-Subwoofer Or PW-2200 for $400(if I can talk him down) http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?homesubw&1325705454&/Paradigm-PW-2200-pw2200-pw-220

MICHAEL!!!

Nope, I think you are correct. I did not purchase mine from the factory, they were removed when I purchased them. That's why I wanted to address that possiblity.

I have never heard the 62s but I have a pair of the 82s and really enjoy them. Where are you getting them? May be able to get a better price checking for a used pair on craiglist...

I may be wrong here, so if anyone wants to jump in and correct me they can definitely do so. That said, there should be four binding posts on the back of your RF-6s IIs. The way I understand it is that the upper posts are high frequency posts and the lower posts are low frequency posts. Essentially connections to your horns and woofers respectively. Make sure you are binding to all four, the two positives with your positive wire, and the negatives with your negative. When I first connected my RF-82s, I didn't connect to the upper posts and for about 2 hours couldn't figure out why I was getting nothing out of my tweeters. Then I went back and jumpered to the high frequency posts(and reversed polarity on my left front because I mixed my wires) and viola! All the beautiful brightness of Klipsch...

My first time was about 5 months ago. To be honest, I picked them out and decided to buy them after reading on here and because I liked how they looked. Went to demo some(now my) RF-82s with my cousin and brother in law. Guy I bought them from turned up Transformers 2 and, well...I liked what i heard. Had a smile on my face for an hour. Was just listening to the radio last night and randomly got a grin on my face, love these damn speakers. Don't care how many more I get, think I'm keeping them till my son leaves the house. It will be his going to college present...

+2. Just read the other post. Thought you were serious about this one.[8-)] It popped up on my google desktop feed at work.

Does it really matter? You are not getting or losing anything by adding posts. Plus I like the people that chime in all the time with their thoughts and opinions. I guess it depends on your definition of needless...

Thanks for the info nefzz. I didn't think it would be a huge issue, but when I put in my cables I just cut them the same length. Never researched it much beyond that point. But a side note is that if the cable is undersized, say 18 or 20, then the differences in length could play a larger role. I think back to when I bought a pos HTIB in college. I had 40ft runs of 22 wire to the rear speakers. They never did work and I never knew why...

Don, I think speakerfritz meant in parallel = 2 ohms and in series = 8 ohms.

I would double check your wiring, plus make sure you are using the right size wire(#16 or better) of equal lengths(or close ± 2"). May sound stupid, but I wired one of my speakers with reverse polarity when I first set them up[:|], definitely messes things up. Second, what is the source of your music? If the source is not clean, the sound will not be clean either. I have this problem as lots of my music are mp3s. They don't always sound great, and there are a couple I can not listen to on my RF 82s, but can listen just fine on my iPhone or with headphones. Outside of those two things I'm not sure. Maybe someone else has something to add.

What is the frequency response on those speakers? Setting to large, they will try to play all frequencies. You should have them set to small with the Xover at 80-100 with your variable frequency off or turned all the way up. Also how loud are you listening?

When a fuse is interrupting a short circuit they do so by melting, which drives up the arcing voltage. The fuse has to safely contain the increased arcing voltage to pass testing, and to be a safe product. As system voltage increases so does arcing voltage. To contain increased voltages, the glass body can be switched to melamine, which is usually good to about 600Vac / dc. Above that you are looking at ceramic fuses. Also at those voltages a very fine and clean sand baked in sodium silicate is packed in the fuse to contain and quench the arc. Again, all this is a short circuit scenario. An overload of 200%-600% is just as difficult to quench, but now the IR rating is less important and the voltage rating is what is most important. As for the coordination, that is all the timing of the fuses. A downstream fuse must totally clear the fault current before the upstream fuse starts to unlatch. That is all about the amperage and the current limiting ability of the fuse. It is a real pain when talking about major short circuits where the fuses can be opening in less that a 1/2 cycle. The voltage, while still extremely important, does not play to large of a role here. Much of this knowledge comes from testing at high amperages and voltages. Just so happens I work at a location where this can be done. It's fun to watch them blow up fuses and circuit breakers sometimes. If anyone is interested I have quite a bit of free information that we provide. And you can always ask me as well. I'm relatively new to the game, about 1 of experience, but there are some cantankerous old timers here that have 35+...

Not sure what you mean by universals, but if you use a lower amperage rated fuse you will generally be safe, assuming the interrupting ability of the fuse is adequate. Some lower amperage rated fuses have a lower ability to interrupt short circuit current flow due to their constuction and materials. If this is the case and it sees to much then there could be trouble. However I don't think there is enough current available in most home applications because of the wire sizes found in most homes....for the most part the small glass fuses have an IR of around 1kA, but depending on the amperage and make it can vary from 35A to 10kA. Also the 110/120Vac systems in the US help a lot. Overseas you are looking @ 220/240Vac which is a lot harder on small fuses.