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Marvel

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Everything posted by Marvel

  1. The Russian (Sovtek) 7199 is only $14.95 ea. at Triode Electronics, and the Phillips (USA) is $28. The EL34s are your choice, shouldn't be too high. Marvel
  2. I use Opera along with IE. The newer versions are pretty stable and much faster, faster even than IE. Plus I can turn off the pop ups, like Netscape. Tom, It uses MS SQL server which is only marginally better than Access. Marvel
  3. The point is, if you place the meter across the resistor, it also isn't accurate as it takes it out of its current limiting role as well. The only real way is to do the following: <> Marvel
  4. I would say that my Fluke also measures correctly when I measure the voltage drop across a resistor. Who in their right mind is going to unsolder the part to place your meter inline? Unless you have a switch to open the circuit with test points for your meter in between. I'll do the voltage drop thank you. If you read your manual for your meter, you would know not to try to measure current by placing it across a component. Marvel
  5. Andy, You are correct. But knowing the voltage across the resistor (10 ohms), you can easily the current flow through the resistor, which will be the current flow through the rest. The current is the voltage divided by the resistor value. As an esily understood example: 10 volts across a 10 ohm resistor would be 1 amp. 10/10=1 (the resistor would be toast pretty quickly here) But you want to know a specific current, .046 amps (46 ma), so current x resistor value = voltage. .046 (amps) x 10 (ohms) = .46 volts You should be aiming for that voltage reading. Help me out guys, did I misplace a decimal point somewhere? Marvel
  6. Poindexter, That is one of my favorite clips. When we were done doing it, I thought it sounded like Dr. Who meets David Lindley. Wish I had real drums on it, but they don't fit in my 8x8 space. Marvel
  7. You usually can't turn it off. It should have a little volume control (like the edge of a tiny disk) that you use to control the gain. Marvel
  8. It isn't a larger woofer. Still a 12 inch, but a model that can handle a bit more power. Marvel
  9. jt1stcav, Download the demo of Sonar form Cakewalk or the demo of Cubase SX from Steinberg. The new versions will blow you away. It ain't your daddys sequencer. Depending of the computer, you can more audio tracks than things you can play, and all the midi tracks you want. And a Mac isn't any better for it either. Marvel
  10. Protools Free only runs on Win98/ME. It will only do a max of 8 tracks. Worse than that it is ProTools. They want you to invest in their hardware. There are plenty of other good DAW tools for the PC, you just need to pick your poison and how your workflow is. I would personally get Samplitude (without the dongle), Cubase SX (unfortunately must use a dongle), or Sonar. They are all good. Even Vegas 4, but I don't like the Acid interface on it. I can get it for $148, so I might be able to love the interface. Even Cool Edit Pro can work. Marvel
  11. I ordered a cassette deck a few years ago from a company only about 30 miles from my home. I had it shipped as I am in another state and they left off the taxes (let's not get into whether I should pay the 8.25+ percent tax the the other state). The box came with tape on it that read "Fragile Equipment -- Please toss underhand!" Marvel
  12. mdeneen is also saying, by way of inference, that each tube will also be slightly different. Add that to the error of the winding, makes being able to adjust each tube by itself is more desireable. Marvel
  13. GaryMD, You mean we have to grow up!!!???!! Whenever something goes wrong I'm responsible. Elmoe, One of my best friends bought a Regal, when they were still made in the US, probably about a 1930 model, with rosewood and all that. He paid $30 for it at the Buy and Sell in Madison Wisc. He has had it for years. It is about the size of a Les Paul but a regular flat top acoustic. Tiny little thing that is as loud as his D-28. I also had a Harmony once, and the action on it was superb. Had it is the late '60s. Whew! do I look that old? Nice job on it. For sure they don't have to cost a lot to sound good or be what you like. My old Gibson/Kalamazoo lap steel has been refinished by me twice. It was ugly when I got it. Now it's just .... Marvel
  14. Elmoe, It is an early '90s Taylor 812C that also has some extra inlay on it. I bought it used. They don't make the 812C with the Florentine cutaway anymore, just the rounded Venetian. That way the lower side is all one piece, so it costs less to make. It is a Rosewood B/S with Spruce top. Ebony fingerboard. Would love to get an archtop, maybe a Nickerson or Bendetto. Lots of good ones around but you need deep pockets. If I had to replace the Taylor the same as it is (inlays, cutaways), it would be over $4k. Glad I found it used. Kinda like finding an old set of Klipsch or Scott amp. Marvel
  15. Griffinator, After you upload the pic, use this code: img src='http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/files/filename.jpg' But switch to html and then put the greater than/less than characters around it. I mailed Invidiosulus an MP3 of a song I wrote for a video (movie?) done by the college film club. Hopefully he can post it, so you can have a listen to his bass, and my lap steel and other stuff. Like many things electric, turn it up loud! Marvel
  16. I'll say "duh," as well. You might still check out tape op. The have had a couple of articles by Steve Royer (I think it is Steve) of Royer Microphones, and making mods on tube microphones, and other technical articles like that. Learn what works and why. If you have the degree for the technical stuff, find out how to translate it into the tools people use. I took electronics at a junior college, and at least learned how to use a meter and a scope. There were guys in the regular accredited program who went out for job interviews who didn't get hired because they only knew the theory. Reagarding studio engineering, having a music education can be a BIG plus, being able to read music can be a big plus. No argument there. Marvel
  17. 1. It's not my real job. 2. I'm not a real engineer. 3. I only do it for fun. What do you mean by engineer? You can go to a school, like Full Sail in Orlando ($30k + for just over a year), and they have over a 70 percent placement rate. Work for peanuts for awhile. Get equipment of your own and mix for friends, learn how things work, try to understand what the musician wants, even when they don't know themselves. Even if you have the knowledge, show humility. Don't just use gimmicks and every plugin that comes down the pike, but be inventive. Realize you don't need an SL9000 to make great recordings. Learn the tools but understand it is the music that matters. Listen in on the Tape Op forums (get a free subscription to hteir mag as well). http://www.tapeop.com Expect to put in long hours and have no life. Marvel
  18. Thinning it with mineral spirits or alchohol should do the same as thinning polyurethane. Makes in soak in and penetrate better. With the linseed oil it won't be sealed as quickly as with the synthetic. Marvel
  19. Griff, Nice! Not my style, but it is doing okay, even with the 128k bit rate. Is it all you or do you have other folks playing on the cut? What gear do you have in your studio as well? Marvel
  20. Tom, Can't believe that someone would use foamcore for the horn. Still, I've also seen folks use paper mache, masonite (appied moisture or steam to bend). The foamcore has almost no mass to it, how would that work? Marvel
  21. <> Hamish, The first rendered drawing (black background) does not have the mod in it. I'm also going to work on creating the woofer, mid and tweeter to insert into this. The piece with the cutout is the bottom of the cab. the lower piece covers the hole. I think there are 16 screws here on a normal cabinet. My mod drawing replicates this bottom piece with the hole in it, so you can just mate them together. The woofer mounts on the vertical piece you see with the vertical slot in it. Looking at some other drawings or plans may help to visualize it. For the complete mod, djk would have you do what's shown above. 1. enclose the back of the mid/tweeter section, and put the ports in. 2. the top section of the doghouse is opened up, similar to the bottom access hatch, to increase the internal volume of the woofer chamber. 3. for you, the board with a 3"x13" slot is where the woofer mounts, facing the rear. DJK says this mod, with a stock K33E will give you -3db at 31Hz. Questions remain -- where to put the crossover? I would probably have wires coming out to binding posts for all three speakers and mount the crossover on the back of the new wood, between the ports. I wanted this pic to be stock, so the mod isn't on it. Might make another with the mod in the top. this would mean making an opening in the TOP of the cabinet, similar to the bottom opening, then closing in the back, with the piece that would hold the two pipes. Confused yet? I think in pictures a lot, but can't always convey in words what I mean. Nice set of Crown gear BTW. A lot of people diss it for high end audio, but the main thing is whether or not you like it. It lasts and lasts. We use Crown for our P.A. gear at the college where I work. Noz, Thanks to you as well. I am working on my web site, and will try to get some images together that are made with the right aspect ratios for wallpaper. I can rotate around the cabinet, but it is hard to get a view and lighting that really looks okay. Marvel
  22. Jim, I used an older version of Caligari's trueSpace -- ver 4.3. My youngest son had bought it, but then saved up his money and got Lightwave. I got the older software. It didn't really take that long to do. You will notice that I didn't do the speaker components, as the cones, frames, horn flares would be a bit much (for me anyway). Not for someone who does this all the time. I had some of this done over a year ago, and just didn't get back to it. I have some other plans for this 3D model, so it will be fun. If I had to spend money on one or the other, I would get Lightwave as well. I can get the educational price, which is under $400. trueSpace is just under $300 for the edu pricing. LW was about $800, but they dropped their prices a lot, Marvel
  23. m00n, How could it be boring with you still here? We could spend more time in the sweet spot listening to music. Marvel
  24. Can thou post some real world expectations from the bass extension mod to the LS (as shown in the drawing posted earlier on this thread)? And what would be some reasonable 2" throat drivers for midrange? Perhaps a comment on some of the B&C, Selenium, Beyma drivers. Marvel
  25. This is to go along with the bass extension drawing I put on the Updating Older Speakers topic. I hope you enjoy. Marvel <>
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