Marvel

I think perhaps you should take a look at this thread: Patent thread / Sub enclosure It uses two LAB 12 speakers, does 31.5Hz at 92db 1 watt input. Size might be an issue, but this box is 41"x41"x18" They could be made to look nice. It is a Tom Danley design. If you want to go an octave lower, this won't be what you want.

Try an iso-barik mounting. You can have it almost flat to 33Hz, in a 10 cu ft cabinet. Then the drivers would be hidden and not be able to be damaged by foreign objects. You shouud still get enough high end out of them to cross over smoothly.

I have also been using FF, and have had no trouble here, even before it made it to 1.0. Something fishy is goin' on I would think. What OS are you running on the laptop?

Sheesh! I'm fallin' asleep on the job. I knew that was a two incher. I apologize for the confusion. Thanks for keeping me in line...

I think it would be a stretch to cross over that low (400). What crossover are you using? You could have a try with these Seleniums: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-216&DID=7 I like the JBL stuff, but these aren't bad drivers either.

Chris, Do you mean a 2426 driver? I haven't found a 2526 driver anywhere. If so, the 2426 uses a titanium diaphragm, and really shouldn't be used lower than 500Hz. Some say is is a little harsh, but hey, it's a JBL and they really make great stuff. Drops like a rock over 15K as well, but if you still use a tweeter, that isn't an issue. Bruce

---------------- On 7/7/2005 6:14:28 PM DrWho wrote: ---------------- In an ideal world the tweeters would be mounted along the symetric line going down the front of the cabinet. Is there any reason the tweeters in question couldn't be mounted on the middle of the khorn, perhaps even directly below the midrange driver? Keeping the drivers as close to each other as possible is probably one of the most important details...it can even have a large effect on the crossover design. ---------------- I was actually planning on putting a slot tweeter (like a JBL 2405) just below the mid horn on the cabinets I want to build this summer. Unfortunately, summer is going by pretty darn fast. The 2405 has a little bit better horizontal dispersion than the 'baby cheeks' 2404. Less vertical dispersion though. ...and you are right about the difference between mixing and listening for the fun of it.

While I'm typing you beat me to it! Are we sorta on the same wavelength?

Actually: Erik Forker's website

I've had mine both ways... and you can do what you want. I have read this theory from more than one source, but here is the explanation from Alesis on their bookshelf monitors (they say tweeters in): The classic studio monitor layout used to be that the tweeters be placed to the outside of a horizontally-oriented speaker. In the past, this configuration was actually beneficial in time aligning the tweeter with the woofer if the cabinets were not toed-in toward the listener. However, this configuration is highly prone to comb filtering effects if the listeners head is moved from side-to-side while mixing. This comb filtering causes the mid-to-high frequency tones to get louder, then softer, then louder again as you move your head from side-to-side, making it very confusing when trying to mix with precision. Some people still believe that stereo separation is improved with tweeters to the outside, but this is advice left over from the early days (the sixties) of stereo recordings when correct stereo often meant a complete hard right or hard left placement of an instrument (or singer). As stereo mixing techniques changed toward placing the vocalist (for example) in the center, the old tweeters-out orientation would indeed widen the image if ones head were kept in the exact center position. But this set-up proves to be very tiring, very quickly for the recording engineer. And, to others who are listening to the mix from either side of the engineer, the sound will seem to be coming primarily from the speaker closest to them.

You may want to have a look at the Selenium D405: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=264-244&DID=7 Rated 300-7k, 75 watts RMS. It has a two inch throat. D-Man is using one of their models on his corner horn. It will require making it a three-way though.

I may have more time this week. There was so much stuff stacked around these that I couldn't get to the back to have a look. The owner might really try to sell me something if I go back in. He said it wasn't a good day when I walked out not buying anything.

Michael, Our DSL was set to use PPoE when we got it. I had to set my router to never time out. You need to check in your manual for your router on how to set that. I didn't have to set anything on the modem. Our phone company tech support always tries to tell us that we MUST be using their software for it to work, but they lie! Once I set the router, our connection is as they say in their ads as "Always On!" Fortunately, we almost never have a problem with it. It has always been fiber that was cut somewhere else, or their equipment. We have often had at least seven PCs online at one time, and I never have to do anything but power up the computer and open my email or browser.

My personal opinion (really) would be to put the tweeters on the inside. You might get more side reflections (from wall) with them on the outside, causing more smear. My small Alesis bookshelk monitors says to put the tweeters to the inside when placing them horizonally, to improve imaging. I had them the other way for a long time. It seems counter-intuitive to put the most directional freqeuncies on the inside, where they are closer together. It was easy to move these as they only weigh about 20 pounds each. Khorns would be harder to move (even just moving the tops).

There are probably different formulations of "Danish Oil". The Watco brand has Linseed oil in it, while one I found use Tung oil. They all contain some amount of mineral spirits, as a carrier. All will penetrate the wood, but tung oil dries to a harder finish that the linseed oil. They have other things added as well, but none of them should hurt the veneer or cause it to release. At least not the original veneer from Klipsch. Too much might, but I think you would have to be soaking it to cause that to happen.

You could have a look in the HT section, where Al K posted his Teac for sale. He has done some other mods to his as well. He added Molex connectors to the boards, so they can be pulled easier, bypassed the volume pots, added better terminal strip on the back for the speaker connections. He posted pics!

---------------- On 7/4/2005 6:28:29 AM Daddy Dee wrote: I've got the crop circle on my desktop. The bachelor pad series is hilarious. ---------------- From pastor to pasture, eh?

Our college went from no student computers on the network to about 600, in one year. The student side is separated from the est of the network. We have had students set up their own access points (not allowed), set up their computers to be a router (not allowed), to more. Sometimes they kill off everyones connection. Besides a WEP key, we also have to put their MAC address into a database. Otherwise, even with the WEP key they don't get anywhere. We had a company install everything and set it up. The first year was awful and it mostly didn't work. We fired them and went back through ourselves. Pulled half the access points and changed antenna. Works a lot better. It is sad that we paid so much money and had to do it over anyway. The upside is that we had a bunch of access points to place in other locations, to extend our coverage. We are using Cisco products for this, and they have been super, albeit pricey.

These guys have great supplies, but htey are a bit far from where you are. The website is a bit clunky, but they do list some walnut ply. http://www.hardwoodgroup.com/chattanooga/cwpcprods.htm

DrWho, I recently fixed one of those ART amps for a friend of mine. It was given to him by another acquaintance. All that was wrong with it was that the fuse holder solder connection was broken. Took all of ten minutes to fix. Those have a very small fan in the back of them, like a 25mm or something. Pretty clean amp, and the fan doesn't make much noise. Not a chip amp, but uses regular transistors. The dba rating is the noise the fan makes. db A weighting. The noise level comes from the fan blade shape and the speed of rotation, blah, blah... The grill on the fan can also be a cause for noise. You can take a 24volt fan and connect it to a 12volt supply and slow it down that way. But the 12volts make not give enough torque to have it start . Try this part number in a search at digikey: P9739-ND So... you are going to add resistors to slow down the fan. Then you can just use the fan to cool off the resistors.

This may be right up fini's alley -- Yesterday I stopped in at a junk furniture store just south of Chattanooga. While I was grieving over all the furniture that was particle board with woodgrain paper, I spotted two cabinets, identical from the outside, stacked one on top of the other. Looking closer at them, they weren't quite the same. Each had a speaker in the left half, but the right half was different in each. One had a space in the bottom for LPs, with the reciever just under the top. Second one looks like the top hinges back and holds a turntable. I couldn't get to the back of it, but the reciever had "Magnificent Magnavox" on the front of the glass. There was a booklet in the cabinet, that explained using for stereo, place the two cabinets about 12 feet apart. The cabinets are in pristine shape. No price on them, and I didn't have a lot of time to try and root around in the back. From the looks of the booklet, I and thinking it is a tube piece of gear, and from what others here have mentioned, probably single ended. It would be high fidelity, but was certainly in nice shape. I was hoping for a console with a Scott or Fisher in it. Bruce

Those tweeter horns are exactly like the ones on my HII cabinets. They are not EV horns. The mid driver on the HII has a smaller VC than the one on the H. This also means that the mid driver wouldn't go as low as the Cornwall/Belle/LaScalla/KHorn. Probably means it isn't going to be quite the same timbre as the older models. The tweeter also goes higher I believe. Could partly be the driver and partly the horn.

I have two Alesis RA-100 amps. 100 wpc into 4 ohms. No fans at all. They don't make the model anymore, and you can pick them up on ebay for cheap. I know there are lots better SS amps, but it is pretty clean. Mine never even get more than warm. The new QSC amps would be great though, due to the newer PS design.

---------------- On 7/1/2005 7:30:24 PM Shade wrote: Also, since you have a laptop, you may want to look into a wireless router. If you do, just make sure you turn on the encryption. Otherwise anyone can get on your network. My friend's wife brought her laptop over when she first got it, and found 3 or 4 wireless networks she could access from my apartment. Instant free internet access. The last thing you want is the neighbor's kid to do any hacking from your internet account. ---------------- Or to have the police come knocking on YOUR door because someone else has been sending receiving child porn on your account. One of the guys in our department goes war driving. He has a laptop with a wireless card, connected to a GPS unit. He finds open wireless access points and it automatically puts them into a database with map locations. He has way over a thousand so far. From Chattanooga down to Charleston, up to Knoxville on to D.C. Sometimes he does a net send and lets them know. Setting up the WEP key is easy. I have a Netgear, and it has worked quite well for us at home, and we have about six or seven PCs on it.

I just came across this link on the lansing heritage forums. GREAT perforated metal. I haven't searched enough to find out about small orders yet, but a lot of nice stuff. perforated screen